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Working with agencies: Advice for new fashion photographers

This article is written by a member of our expert community. It expresses that member’s views only. We welcome other perspectives. Here’s how to contribute to MM EDU.

Why work with agencies/agency models?


Photo: S de Varax, Model: Perrie @ Viviens

The semblance of professionalism

If you say you are a fashion photographer, you need to be working with fashion models. Models with the right looks, the right stats, the right attitude, and the right professionalism give you the credibility that you’re halfway to doing the right thing. Clients want agency girls, publications insist on it (ever see the clause – models MUST be agency represented- in submission requirements?) and you want to be draping that stylish garment on a 5’10 agency girl rather than Jane Doe off the street. Perception is a big part of the industry. To be taken seriously, you need to be working with the right people.

Note: Non-agency girls and boys can be as marvelous and beautiful and awesome as agency girls and boys, just as agency girls and boys can be not so great. Models are humans. However the fashion industry has rules – play by the rules then you can break them.

Half your work is done for you

Agencies are there to source models with the looks and stats the commercial and fashion world wants. They’ve gone out and done it and have a database ready. It’s much easier to ask an agency for possible models with the attributes you’re looking for and get comp-cards, than to scroll along hundreds of listings online and message all of them, hoping someone replies.

You can focus on what you do best

Agency models know how to do their work so you can do yours. You don’t need to worry if they’ll show up (they will), about replacements (call the booker), and they’re practicing all the time as they learn on the job and on tests. They show up prepared and ready to work because this is their job.

How to work with agencies/agency models


Photo: S de Varax, Model: Amberlie @ Chadwick

Which agencies to contact

There are good agencies and there are bad agencies, and there are smaller boutique agencies which can be good or bad. The first step is to make a list – research online and ask other photographers or creatives or models about which agencies to work with. Reputable agencies have a good standing in the industry, they’re usually well known and represent a good selection of models.

Call? Email? Show up?

So you’re ready to contact agencies and don’t know how. Should you call, or email or just show up with your book? Depends on the agency.

I favor calling – you can ask directly for the booker in charge of new faces therefore having a point of contact. They get to know that you’re a real life breathing person so they’ll remember you when you email. If they’re open to testing they’ll usually ask to see your work, in the form of a website or they may ask that you come in with your book.

If and when you email – re-introduce yourself, reiterate what you’re looking for, for example testing with new faces or paid testing, and attach your website or a pdf file of a selection of your work and your contact details.

If and when you show up – dress smart casual and be presentable. Have your book and cards on you.

3P’s- Be Professional, Polite and Positive

First impressions matter. The way you present yourself goes a long way to securing a good relationship with a booker, making it easier to book models. Double check all grammar and spelling, make sure your contact details are correct.

If you’re nervous about speaking or meeting a booker, write up what you’re going to say and practise saying it. The first time I was nervous and stuttering. The next couple of times I was too abrupt and forward. After the tenth time, I’m getting used to having a normal conversation. If you’re unsure about anything, don’t be afraid of asking questions. It is much better to have all the information on the table.

Smile and make eye contact.

Always remember to stay positive. Bookers might say no, but keep at it – contact them and keep showing your new work. Remember that it is a symbiotic relationship – photographers need models and you as a photographer have the skills bookers need. If at first you don’t succeed, try and try again, and again, and again.

Have your work ready

Study the sort of images the agency has on their boards and make sure you’re shooting similar stuff of equal (or higher) caliber. It’s alright if you’re a student or new, as long as you can show you have potential to shoot good images which highlight the best features of the models – which is what bookers are looking for. Peacock feathers and sparkly glitter eyes are less likely to impress than good solid clean images. Don’t be afraid to ask for critiques, especially from your peers. Be discerning and only put out your best work.

Have a website ready (your own) as opposed to Facebook, flickr, or MM. It’s easy and cheap to set up your own website – sites like WordPress, livebooks, qufoto and many more offer readymade templates to showcase your work, or you can make your own.

Have your portfolio or book ready – 11×14 is usual, but you can choose to be more unique in your presentation. No Plastic Sleeves is a nice site to see how other photographers are handling their marketing materials. An iPad might also be an option for showing your work.

There’s no beating that feeling when you hand your book over and see eyebrows go up and mouths curve into smiles as they flip through your work.


Photo: S de Varax, Model: Courtenay @ Giant

Live up to expectations and exceed them

Be prompt on your promises and always try to be better. Bookers don’t like to chase photographers for photos and they like it even less if you disappear. People talk and you really don’t want to be that person no one wants to work with.

Be a good photographer and be a good professional.

Other matters

Can or should you get a model release? Agencies rarely allow their models to sign releases, especially for tests. Ask the booker if you need a release.

Can you use test photos commercially? Not a great idea. You need to negotiate for commercial use.

What can you use test photos for? Read up on the laws regulating your country such as privacy and photo releases. Common use includes portfolio updates and magazine submissions.

What do you give agencies? You can give a proof sheet of photos for the booker to choose a selection to retouch, or give a selection of already retouched images, as long as they’re usable images. How many images are up to you – 1 to 3 per look would do well.

Above all, have fun!

S de Varax

S de Varax

Shamim de Varax is a young self-taught photographer currently based in Melbourne, Australia. She specializes in editorial fashion and beauty with personal long term projects focusing on emotive portraiture. http://sdevarax.com & http://sdevarax.wordpress.com

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  • Liquidbutterflyphotography

    I love reading your articles.

  • Vincebarker

    Good article but could you expand on releases. If I’m planning a magazine submission I need a release included with the submission. Should I expect an agency to understand that ? If the magazine accepts my submission what is the normal procedure then. Does the magazine contact the agency or is that my job ? If the agency then asks for more money than the magazine wishes to pay, what then ? I have just wasted a lot of time, money and effort on an unusable shoot. This may be normal but I would like to know what the reality is today with so many online and printed magazines working on tight budgets.
    I look forward to your advice.
    Kind regards
    Vincent Barker

    • Shamim de Varax

      Hey Vince- most magazines or editorials do not require releases. If however you need one contact the booker to explain and show them the release. this is where having a good relationship with the booker comes in. you need to be in charge of everything- the magazine wouldn’t contact the agency.
      re: payment- same as above- negotiate with the booker beforehand. if you’re working with a new face the booker is more likely to work with you than against you- they understand the reality of small budgets too. also it’s a good idea to send the agency a pdf copy of the editorial if it comes out ;)

      • Vincebarker

        Hi Shamin,
        Thanks for the useful advice.
        Cheers
        Vince

    • N.Grigalunus

      From my personal experience, the responsibilty falls almost eclusively on the shoulders of the photographer. If a magazine wants to publish a photo of a model you shot previously, the editor or art director natually concludes that your paperwork is all in order, and that they do not need to contact the model’s agancy, other them to give them a courtesy call to say their publiching a photo of him/her. As a general rule, if an agency wants a fee, they will contact the magazine directly, not you. If the publication refuses to pay, then it’s between the agency and the publication. Again, not you. If your image doesn’t get published, it’s not a waste of money. You should be marketing your photos multiple times throughout the year, to whomever you wish to target as a ‘client’. It’s all about competing for dollars, like any other industry.

  • Steve Hlavac

    Every market is slightly different, but lots of good, solid advice here. Just wanted to add that I’ve never had a model or agency hesitate to sign a very limited release in South or Central Florida. But IMO every photographer should at least have something, even if it just permits portfolio and promotional use. Also, in the digital/internet age, online web proof galleries are an acceptable way to show models and agencies proofs of images shot.

  • http://www.BloomyPhotos.com Jiacooks

    Thanks for the info! I’ve always been intimidated to contact agencies but after reading this I will give it a shot! You’re work is great :D

  • Info

    great advice not only for photographers!!!!

  • Eva Fydrych

    Great article Shamim! I look forward to seeing your interview in Fashion Studio Magazine.

    Eva
    http://www.fashionstudiomagazine.com

  • Hudcom

    Perfect “need to know”..thank you..

  • Lvproimaging

    I love your work and your post remains inspiring and informative. I know for myself I need to be more proactive regarding agencies and advertising departments. Your post takes away much of the guess work and just may be the perfect kick in the azz some of us need!

  • robertxc

    Thank you for sharing, found it interesting and very true

    Best
    R

  • Ddiazsanchez

    im fashion photographer and beaty,is very difficult send emails try get in touch with people and no reply me or say is not interested in photograhers and really upset me bcos i love this work but not one guive opportuniti

  • Julian Wilde

    I have to admit, after shooting FOR agencies for over 10 years… I LUUUUV the freedom of NOT working for agencies. But they’re great for all the reasons you say. ;-)

    -JULIAN

  • Lindsay

    Great advice. My question is, for photographers that don’t have a regular studio space, is it best to just go forward and test on location? Sometimes I’ll shoot in my apartment, but I don’t know that an agency would be too happy about that.

    • SdV

      I use my apartment as a studio. as long as you deliver, agencies aren’t going to care how you get results.

  • Harold Rose

    My complaint: I like to see professional photography skills.. Skill is not given the importancwe that is needed.. SKILL LEVELS very important..

    • SdV

      hi harold.

  • Bocailcious

    Excellent Article. Thanks for sharing. I’m hoping to test this out soon!

    Cheers.

    Brian Wcislo

  • Craig B. Smith***Photographer

    Thank You & Great Words! :-) …..Just an FYI: I was REMOVED from MM, not long ago because they said I was a Fashion Photographer and worked with the agencies, I was told it was not allowed for MM, photographers to be agency/fashion photographers! WHAT!!!???……I’m Glad you brought this to MM’s EDU

    • Michael W

      Agent profiles are not allowed on MM. You can shoot their models. You just can’t be/act as an agent or manager.

  • Apsi Photo

    Thank you so much for the direction.

  • http://twitter.com/Intricatephoto Jahi Sadiq-el

    Thank you this is very helpful!

  • Timothy

    Very helpful post. For someone just starting to approach agencies for testing, what do you think would a good number of photos for a portfolio?

    • terms reader

      All killer. No filler.

      15-20 is an absolute MAX. But only include the best. 5 amazing photos is better than 5 amazing photos and 10 pretty good ones.

      • Timothy

        Thanks!

  • http://www.neilsnape.com Neil

    Good article. The bigger the centre in which you live the more precise the agencies want with their testing photographers.
    In Paris they will look at your site, and you’d best go see them. A relationship is the key to moving ahead. The pictures they expect are work tools , not Vogue covers.
    It’s a delicate balance. You’ll need to provide all the team players to provide the standards the agency needs. Your fist few shoots are critical. Once past you have built up some credibility, you can have more fun. Remember: your relationship, 1:1 with the agency is what will make it possible to get magazine work. Without it , you’ll be out of luck.

  • Martin kunert

    What I’d add… agencies in NYC and LA are looking for simple, clean, natural shots. The point is that you’re selling the natural beautiful of the girl. Agencies want their clients to go, “ooooo, if that’s how beautiful she is naturally, imagine how hot she’ll be when we really razzle-dazzle her up!”

  • Saint Robert

    Thanks. Very informative and good info to know.

  • http://www.facebook.com/titus.powell Titus Powell

    Great advice. I’ve found that the top agencies (in the UK, this is) really want natural photos. Amazing beauty shots with on trend makeup seem to have less impact than a simple single-light B&W shot of a girl in a vest with ultra natural makeup that seems to you as a photographer, well, somewhat boring.

    Obviously you need to get something out of it too, but the more top agency tests I do, the more I conclude that, to agencies, natural is king.

  • Photos by Jeff

    THanks, a nice article.

  • Eyeofrayphotography

    Thank you so much for this. Extremly helpful

  • Marlo

    Thanks for sharing!

  • Julian Wilde

    As much I love Agency Girls, I would only recommend using them… if you can’t get “agency quality girls” on your own. ;-)

  • clin

    i have a question regarding the make-up and styling for the tests… for a test shoot for the well known agencies do u need a wardrobe, a stylist, make-up and hair? does the model comes up with the wardrobe? thank you

    • N.Grigalunus

      You don’t necessarily ‘need’ anyone other than the model. But the competition for relationships between the modeling agencies and their talent, and yourself is highly competitve. I won’t even begin to talk about the amateurs attemptng to make the transition to professional status. So collaborating with a MUA, hairstylist, and a clothing stylist, (if you can manage to convince them to collaborate with you), is almost an unavoidable necessity. If you’re going to compete for ‘go-sees’ or actual modeling work, your images have to be spot-on. Your photos have to reflect a thorough understanding of photography skills, creativity, and knowing what’s happening in the industry at any given moment. If you’re going to do fashion photography. get to know what’s being publsihed in the mainstream mags, who the regular shooters are, whose working and whose not. Like preparing for a job interview, you need to do your homework beforehand.

  • Rcarterphoto

    Great advice! I just graduated, and I’m finding that agencies like my work, but won’t let me test with their models. I’ve gotten the comment “too artistic.” I see now that I have to reshape my book to be more commercially appealing. Love this article, I will be sharing!

  • Pixmaker53

    This is a wonderful article. I have been in the industry a long time, 3 years ago I moved to a new city. This article is just the brush up I need! It’s like I’m a kid again, trying to break into a new city’s market! It matters not how long one has been at it, like Janet Jackson said; “what have you done for me lately?”

Related:
How editorial and commercial agencies work

How editorial and commercial agencies work

Agent and agency responsibilities when working with models

Agent and agency responsibilities when working with models