Forums > Hair, Makeup & Styling > A good way to treat chapped lips/thin lips

Photographer

Laura Elizabeth Photo

Posts: 2253

Rochester, New York, US

So I'm not really a MUA but for a lot of my basic portrait shoots I'll do the makeup myself since it's often kept rather clean and simple and it can be hard to book MUA's in my area since their aren't many and I've yet to run into any real trouble. 

I do have one issue though and it's often been models lips.  Some have some serious chapping going on, espeiclaly with western NY's brutal winter and it makes retouching on beauty images a major hassle.  I'm wondering if there's something I could have them apply that would smooth out chaps since normal lip balm isn't really doing the trick and if I could I'd just have models bush over their lips with a toothbush.  I know there's something like a sugar scrub or something at sephora but I'm worried about keeping things clean since many models would need to use it.

I'm also wondering for models with thin lips if there's a good plumping lip treatment that isn't too irritating (I swear I saw that some basically cause an allergic reaction which is why they are made puffy) and wears well with most makeup if need be.

Feb 20 15 06:55 pm Link

Makeup Artist

ArtistryImage

Posts: 3091

Washington, District of Columbia, US

Laura Bello wrote:
A good way to treat chapped lips

Lip balm emollients applied religiously for several days leading up to the shoot...  the most common are mineral oil or petroleum emollients, they are cheap but may not be the wisest to use... lanolin may be better... the petroleum based product are not moisturizers but only barrier agents that seal moisture in... 

Medical-grade Lanolin the principle ingredient for most nipple creams on the other hand is far safer in as it does not dry out or irritate the skin...and it's obviously organic i.e. a true "natural" cosmetic product... and is totally safe for even babies to consume... thus used as a nipple cream...

Laura Bello wrote:
A good way to treat... thin lips

For the MUA, over drawing is the tried and true SOP...  Lip Plumpers?  Snake oil... don't go there... they work by seriously irritating the skin... think about this a common ingredient in Lip Plumpers is capsicum yes the stuff in hot peppers that burns your mouth... Cosmetic vendors market these because they cause a temporary swelling of the lips... but no where near what an over draw can achieve...

Now what can YOU do as the tog?  Shoot the talent from a much lower angle....
This gives a thin upper lip an illusion of being larger... 

Example: 

https://www.restonstudio.com/gallery/Fgallery9-3.jpg
Diana's upper lip is smaller so I shot from several feet below her head... yep it works...

Another common adage is for small lips use light pinks and for large lips use deep reds...
As Alice said... One with makes you tall the other makes you small... lol

The problem with this is beauty genre makeup is about the entire look... not just lips...
a.k.a. the tail should not be wagging the dog...

Hope this helps or at least offers food for thought
Except capsicum, maybe avoid the hot pepper routine, k?

Side Note: Had one talent in my chair who insists on using Carmex... this hybrid lip balm does contain lanolin, however it's main emollient is petrolatum... oddly enough it is similar to Lip Plumpers since it contains  camphor, menthol and phenol... The last ingredient (phenol) is banned for use in cosmetics by the European Union...  Seriously not to be used as a nipple cream...  phenol is rather toxic... enough said...   I actually tried Carmex and it certainly does cause a burning sensation at least for my lips... use at your own risk...

Feb 20 15 10:18 pm Link

Makeup Artist

Sophia Porter

Posts: 34

Lemont, Illinois, US

^^^^^^^
EXCELLENT! Well said! Always love your input!

I'd also like to add another bit about Carmex, it contains salicylic acid. This ingredient is an NSAID as well as an exfoliant, but when used improperly, it'll dry your lips to death.

My all time favorite for lip balm is Fresh Sugar Lip Treatment. I have extremely dry skin and chapped lips, on top of psoriasis, and I have to say this is worth every single penny to buy. Its the only quick hydrating balm I've ever come across. Its thick but it works, it smells lovely too!

If a person has minor chapped lips, try a sugar scrub then a decent balm on top. Another one I like for when my lips aren't too bad is the Dior Creme De Rose, feels so silky, has a nice rosy tint and scent.

Feb 21 15 07:32 am Link

Makeup Artist

ThirdEyeMakeup

Posts: 316

Los Angeles, California, US

I love the "Perfect Pout Lip Mask + Lip Balm Duo". It's by Kaplan MD. The lip mask plumps a lot and without irritation and exfoliates gently using enzymes. The dead skin just balls of easily. I apply a generous amount and just wait until it sinks in and then very gently wipe off the dead skin. They sell it at sephora

Feb 21 15 08:07 pm Link

Makeup Artist

Danielle Blazer

Posts: 846

Los Angeles, California, US

Since you are not a MUA the cheapest, easiest solution would be to buy cheap toothbrushes in bulk at the dollar store and treat them as disposable, single-use items. My dollar store sells a package of 6 for a dollar. Apply an emollient lip balm heavily (please dispense the lip product with a spatula, don't apply from the bullet) and have the model GENTLY scrub the lips. Then wipe lips with a makeup remover wipe or baby wipe. Reapply a thinner coat of balm. This is cheaper than lip scrub and less messy. I do use lip scrub, but I'm a MUA so it's worth the higher cost since I do this all the time.

Feb 21 15 10:28 pm Link

Photographer

Laura Elizabeth Photo

Posts: 2253

Rochester, New York, US

Thanks so much for all the suggestions!

Feb 22 15 06:46 am Link

Makeup Artist

MeganCalfoMakeup

Posts: 68

Los Angeles, California, US

For chapped lips and dry skin in general, it is important to exfoliate. Exfoliating will remove excess dead skin, however it shouldn't be done everyday.
I would recommend a sugar scrub. They sell them at LUSH and it is sold in a pot, so to keep it sanitary just use a palette knife to remove the product from the pot. Or you could make your own sugar scrub, just get some white granulated sugar and mix it with some olive oil. The sugar exfoliates, while the olive oil moisturizes.

Then it's important to apply a lip balm after. I usually treat the lips first, before I apply any makeup, so that the lip balm has time to absorb into the lips, I usually apply lipstick last.
Bite Beauty Agave Lip Mask is very moisturizing. Or on the inexpensive side, Nivea lip butters are always amazing.
Just remember to remove any excess lip balms with a Q-tip before applying any lip products, just so the balm doesn't interfere with the product.

For lip plumpers, I have yet to find one that doesn't give that tingly, burning feeling. Lip plumpers make blood rush to the surface of the skin, so it makes the lips appear plumper. In the process, it makes your lips tingle and for some people it gives them allergic reactions.
I personally don't like lip plumbers, or anything that is supposed to plump up your lips. I just use lip liner, and over draw the lip line just slightly, I feel that that is enough.
However, you could always try the film canister trick. You get a film canister, put your lips inside of it and then suck. Kind of weird/hard to explain it.
I would just stick to lip liner, find one that is closest to their natural skin tone. Also, applying a lighter lip color in the center of the lips will help them appear bigger. Lip gloss, although I'm really not much of a fan of glossy lips (unless its dark colors, reds etc.), will also make lips appear bigger.

Hope this helps!

Feb 22 15 10:08 am Link

Makeup Artist

MakeUp By CC

Posts: 304

Stockholm, Stockholm, Sweden

Elizabeth Arden 8 hour cream is your best friend for everything that is dry and needs a quick fix smile
If you don't happen to have a sugar scrub just use a towel and gently rub
Lip plumpers are eww.... and remember that some people can be very sensitive to them so I'd stay away from them. Overdraw the lips instead...

Feb 23 15 03:04 am Link

Model

Raina_Bow

Posts: 22

Pompano Beach, Florida, US

The Lush lip sugar scrub works wonders, and its all natural too!

Feb 23 15 06:30 am Link