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Which flash diffuser would you recommend?
I'd like something portable I can attach onto my speedlight. I saw that Gary Fong one had good reviews and wanted your guys and gals thoughts on the ones out there. Oct 22 15 01:57 pm Link There's lots of diffusers that are similar to the Gary Fong thing available for @ $10 to $15. Here's one of many: http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Lamb … ght+sphere Please note they come in two different sizes. to fit the widths of the most common flash units. Be sure to order the proper size. I originally had one of the Gary Fong versions, but it kept falling off until a point where it fell off and was never seen again. I don't feel like spending another $60 to replace it, so I bought a few of the $10 units. I haven't noticed any difference as far as light output quality. I also get great results with a LARGE Rogue Flashbender, but if push comes to shove I think I like the light dome style the best. Oct 22 15 02:34 pm Link SayCheeZ! wrote: I appreciate you linking that one for me, I'm strongly considering getting it for my yongnuo yn-560 II flash unit. Oct 22 15 03:25 pm Link i like my rogue flashbender. so far all the flash attachments i've found are a bit wibbly-wobbly. some swear by an index card and a rubber band. Oct 22 15 03:27 pm Link I've used everything from coffee filters to bendable diffusers and everything in between. NOTHING works as good as a Gary Fong collapsible IMO. There is that, and there is everything else. Oct 22 15 04:14 pm Link Oct 22 15 04:51 pm Link If you want some flash to go forward and the rest to bounce off the ceiling, then the card stock and a rubber band works just fine. Oct 22 15 05:47 pm Link I notice a number of posts comparing very different types of flash diffusers. An open top bowl type flash diffuser works really well when you have reasonably close / neutral colored ceilings and walls. It blasts the light all around you and up, with a little bit redirected forward. The largest surface area (walls and ceilings) makes for the softest results. If you have a good ceiling for bounce and no useful walls, then the bounce flash with an index card (or built in bounce card) would be just as good (it doesn't blast light all around to walls that aren't there / useful). If you have no good bounce surfaces than a much larger diffuser that only throws the light forward would work better. Assuming it's a larger diffusion area than the other solutions and that you are close enough that the size of the flash diffusion panel is enough to make it softer. Naturally any of the above are usually big improvements over direct flash, but that's not exactly a difficult task! Oct 22 15 08:46 pm Link And I can't help thinking back fondly of the age old "IKEA" flash diffusers. For blasting light everywhere (for when you have a good room for bouncing). Sounds bizarre but, from what I remember, they were surprisingly effective... http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Gar … /?ALLSTEPS Oct 22 15 09:30 pm Link LightDreams wrote: LightDreams gave an excellent explanation about the differences between the different type of diffusers, but I would also like to add that you can insert a white card or foil into the rear of the bowl type of diffusers so that more light goes forward. One of the adaptors that Gary Fong sells is basically what I've just mentioned. Some of the other Chinese made products may include a lid with a reflector thats designed to go in the back for the purpose that I just mentioned. Oct 22 15 09:34 pm Link a paper plate and a rubber band, works, but not professional visually to a client....hobby lobby has small foam boards that you can make your own....have fun, experiment, milk jug, what ever...can be the next Gary F.....Mo Oct 22 15 09:36 pm Link I forgot to mention that one of the DISADVANTAGES to using the bowl type of diffusers (any brand) is that they CAN be on the heavy side, not so much a problem with holding or carrying it, but it may cause the flash to flip forward, or may cause a speed frame to flip sideways, and as I mentioned before the weight also creates a tendancy for the unit to slip off the flash. Oct 22 15 09:38 pm Link Use good equipment, and don't go for some cheap diffuser that's not going to do the job. I've been using the Fong diffuser for years, and see nearly all the pros using them. I remember when photographers were using an index card held with a rubber band on the flash, to try and diffuse the light, as that was all that was available back then. The Fong works great. Oct 22 15 09:42 pm Link my flashbender can be like that, too. i had a fong knock-off and it was terrible (plus people kept asking me about it so i told them it was a chip&dip holder for later). the flashbender has two sizes. the small one is less of an issue but i like the light better from the large one. i usually can't rely on nearby walls/ceilings so i just throw the light forward (using the softbox attachment). SayCheeZ! wrote: Oct 23 15 10:13 am Link I used the Stofen Omni-Bounce http://www.stofen.com/index.asp and did not see any difference with the Gary Fong. The Gary Fong was heavy and kept falling off of my flash. Also it would not fit in my camera bag - I don't know about his current collapsible unit. The two units above diffuse light all around the room whereas the unit that you have, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ENS … &psc=1 , mostly throws light forward. So each will have advantages according to room size, room color, etc. The Fstoppers Flash Disc https://fstoppers.com/product/fstoppers … t-modifier looks interesting. I'm going to order one. Oct 23 15 04:14 pm Link I was too mark..but they are back-ordered it seems Oct 23 15 04:33 pm Link -fpc- wrote: B&H put me on their list to notify when it is available. Oct 23 15 06:04 pm Link Oct 23 15 09:32 pm Link Not perfect by any means but I did this test for myself a few years ago. Just a quick test to see the effect of: room light, pop-up flash, naked SB-800, omni-bounce, and the Gary Fong look-a-like RPS FlexiDome. Nikon D-300 Nikon SB-800 Lens = AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 28-70mm f/2.8 IF-ED WB = Auto ISO = 100 Aperture Priority = f 5.6 Focal Length 60mm Picture Control file = D2XMode1 (for me, the test was for light and shadow, not color rendition) Camera about 4 feet from head Head about 4 inches from background Both the D-300 and SB-800 set to TTL mode The shadow on the right edge in the top row, second photo is from the lens hood. Oct 24 15 04:18 pm Link I find the dome style like the Fong to work best when there is no useable ceiling - either because it is 8' tall, or because it is 40' tall. For all other applications, I prefer the flashbender. A card and a rubber band works great, especially if the ceilings are moderately tall. But in the event that I'm actually getting paid, I don't want to MacGuyver solutions. I know that a lot of DIY stuff works as well as the commercial gear, and most of my home solutions are DIY. But on the job, it's important to me to keep up appearances - if only so I look like I deserve the rate that I'm charging. I can't speak for everyone else, but I know I'd be uncomfortable if I watched my mechanic have a go at my car with a screwdriver and a hammer, even if he promised me that it was just as effective as the proper tools. Oct 24 15 05:13 pm Link Did you check out the PhotoPlus Expo in NYC? I saw numerous diffusers there. Oct 25 15 05:35 pm Link LightDreams wrote: Of all the DIY things I've wasted time with in photography, this is the only thing that not only worked, but continues to work, and actually delivers on the cost/performance ratio. It's just as good as a Gary Fong product and folds a lot flatter to take up less room in the bag. Oct 25 15 05:39 pm Link I have zero DIY skills but am a big fan of the MagMod items: https://magnetmod.com/ LumiQuest products have served me well also: http://lumiquest.com/ Oct 25 15 06:39 pm Link When it comes to modifiers, there are only three things that matter: 1) how large the light source is 2) how diffused it is 3) and for on-camera flash, how much goes up to the ceiling vs. forward to the subject. Whether you use a Taster's Choice can or a Light sphere, if the source size and diffusion is the same, the effect is the same. There's no magic plastic that makes Fong's stuff work better. Fong doesn't even use good plastic. If you cut a hole in a cardboard box and put in a sheet of tracing paper, and then add another sheet over the middle bit, it's exactly as effective as a Lumiquest box. The only difference is that you pay less, and look goofier. Does appearance matter to you? If you understand how light and modifiers work, you'll find that 99.99% of the ones meant for on-camera use are all the same shit in different packages. It's all about how handy you are, how small it needs to fold up, and how much money you can spend. As I said, I generally prefer the flash bender; it folds flat for easy carry. For off-camera work, I like the Lumiquest boxes. Until they get old, anyway - the plastic goes extra yellow. But if I didn't have to be portable, and I didn't care about keeping up appearances, some cardboard boxes, tracing paper, and electrical tape would give me the exact same effect, for much less money. Oct 25 15 06:57 pm Link I have tried a number of things, and have settled on the Flashbender. I always try to bounce and use the Flashbender as a flag, much like the "black foamie thing" described in this article: http://neilvn.com/tangents/about/black-foamie-thing/. If there's nothing to bounce off, then I flip it around and use the white side as a diffuser. If I'm using the flash for fill outdoors, I generally use bare flash pointed directly at the subject. I haven't seen anyone mention that most of these modifiers eat up power from your flash. At the end of the day, most of them aren't a much bigger light source than the flash head itself, so you're not really diffusing the light very much, unless you're also bouncing it (like the Fong gizmo). If you want a hard light source and don't care about harsh shadows, then a small diffuser will give you that. If you'd like softer more natural looking light, bounced flash creates much more diffusion and softer shadows. The page I linked to above has a lot of great information about the use of bounce flash. Oct 26 15 05:47 am Link Thank you everyone. I'm gonna head down to B&H tomorrow and see if they have any of the flashbenders. That seems to be what I'm currently looking for. Most of my photography the past 2 weeks has been at night in outdoor areas where there isn't really anywhere to bounce light off of. I direct it forward with the diffuser I have but it's quite harsh in my opinion. Perhaps the flashbender will soften it up. Oct 27 15 08:38 pm Link Mark Salo wrote: This version looks identical, and is much cheaper. Oct 27 15 09:08 pm Link This may be worth looking into, I'm thinking about ordering one myself. http://www.ebay.com/itm/44cm-Easy-fold- … 1897143868 Oct 27 15 09:34 pm Link I have tried them all. And the all have the good and bad points. The Fong is nice in smaller rooms with light colored walls. It's provides a lot of fill and lowers the contrast. I tried the Flashbender but I didn't like the way it, well, bent over. My favorite one and the one I use at every corporate event is the Flip It. Many will say it's just a white card. And it is. But it's also on a hinge so I can tilt it forward or back or out of the way if I need to. It's also a lot bigger than the white card that slides out of most flashes. It prevent wasted light from going behind me. I do lose a little going up top but sometimes I can get some nice ceiling bounce. If I want less, I can angle it forward a bit more. Between the Flashbender and the Flip it, I like my Flip It more. At least for event photography. We're not talking fine portraits or pretty wedding photos here. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?N= … amp;sts=pi Oct 28 15 05:40 am Link Mike Collins wrote: Yeap, they all work and they all suck. I have tried most of them. Evey vendor claims theirs is better. I will shop for price and convenience to use. Oct 28 15 08:54 am Link Zack Zoll wrote: Depends if you care about color casts. Your claim is the same as saying a white bedsheet works the same on a studio softbox as the proper cover. Thats not to say all the more expensive stuff actually gives the proper color. The main reason I don't like the gary fong is it gives a weird cyan/blue tint to the specular thats hard to get rid of in camera or in post. Then there's the way the plastic is actually shaped. The diffuser that came with my nikon speedlight has a dimpled front texture. I tested it against a wall with a typical smooth Stofen and saw a noticeable difference in the shape of the light. Oct 29 15 05:59 am Link MiloB85 wrote: You might also consider different flash brackets. Some move it on axis with the lens to give sort of a ringlight look or others move it off axis for a more rembrant lighting look. Or just get a stand and pockwizards Oct 29 15 06:09 am Link |