Forums > Photography Talk > Lighting??

Photographer

Studio B

Posts: 654

Newport News, Virginia, US

I was wondering if you was going to shoot a model in her house and the only room she had was a 11' X 11' room what light/s would you bring?


(BTW She wants to do lingerie, some head shots and nudes.)

Mar 21 07 02:41 pm Link

Photographer

dDavid

Posts: 616

Detroit, Michigan, US

What kind of lights do you have?

Mar 21 07 02:42 pm Link

Photographer

JM Dean

Posts: 8931

Cary, North Carolina, US

You might want to consider what type of lens to bring too. 11ft is not much to work with. I assume she’ll be against the wall most of the time.

Mar 21 07 02:45 pm Link

Photographer

former_mm_user

Posts: 5521

New York, New York, US

depends on the effect you want.  i'd probably go with on-camera flash, or a flashlight with 3200 speed film.  but that's me.

Mar 21 07 02:46 pm Link

Photographer

Studio B

Posts: 654

Newport News, Virginia, US

dDavid wrote:
What kind of lights do you have?

I have this http://www.alienbees.com/digi.html and I was thinking it was a bit much.

Mar 21 07 02:48 pm Link

Photographer

CLT

Posts: 12979

Winchester, Virginia, US

I have a hunch as to who the model is.. but that's not your question.

A single bee with a softbox, and then a reflector on the other side as fill should be enough for what you're shooting. I agree it's the lens that's more important.

Mar 21 07 02:52 pm Link

Photographer

JM Dean

Posts: 8931

Cary, North Carolina, US

Studio B wrote:

I have this http://www.alienbees.com/digi.html and I was thinking it was a bit much.

Not too much IMO. I’d suggest some different type modifiers other than the umbrellas. Good for headshots, but maybe some grids and a snoot for the other stuff. Something to narrow your beam down some. You can always bounce one off the wall and kinda use it as a natural light source too. Experiment with that some.

Mar 21 07 02:53 pm Link

Photographer

Studio B

Posts: 654

Newport News, Virginia, US

JM Dean wrote:

Not too much IMO. I’d suggest some different type modifiers other than the umbrellas. Good for headshots, but maybe some grids and a snoot for the other stuff. Something to narrow your beam down some. You can always bounce one off the wall and kinda use it as a natural light source too. Experiment with that some.

Yeah, thats what I was thinking. I know i'll prob bounce it off the waal or ceiling. It's a awful small room to work with though and I have never worked in a room that small so I thought I would ask. Thanks for all the info.

Mar 21 07 02:56 pm Link

Photographer

Photography by Martin

Posts: 901

Tyler, Minnesota, US

Depending on the look you're after, one Bee, popped off the ceiling will open up the whole room.  But regardless, the 11x11 will likely only be enough room for you, model, and one light.

Mar 21 07 02:57 pm Link

Photographer

Pat Thielen

Posts: 16800

Hastings, Minnesota, US

I think I'd experiment with bouncing the light off the ceiling and then suppliment the light with a small softbox. Because you don't have a lot of room it will be difficult to have anything large in the room. You may be able to put an umbrella or larger softbox in the door depending on the room layout. On one occasion (the "cat playing chess" photo in my portfolio) I simply used a small softbox to camera left and a reflector on the other side to bounce in some fill. But there are many ways you can go about lighting, even in a small room like that.

Mar 21 07 03:02 pm Link

Photographer

Mirror Image Photograph

Posts: 61

Lebanon, Illinois, US

I have a similar lighting situation.  my room is the same size that I shoot in, its a pain to get rid of shadows on the wall and such.  however I have found that If you use one of your lights behind the subject and blow out the wall you can use a sofbox for your primary lighting and a reflector or a corner for your fill light.  that gives some ok headshots.  also if the walls are white then you can bounce your flashes off of them to create really cool effects... Hopefully you have a softbox and a wide lens though, cause I think those things will be optimal.

Mar 21 07 03:04 pm Link

Photographer

Don Spiro

Posts: 194

Astoria, New York, US

It depends on the look you want and if the environment has a light of bright reflective surfaces. If you want really soft illumination go with the diffusion and bounce and just light everything. If you're going for a sculpted modeling look or want something more interesting consider snooting the lights and going direct. If you;re shooting film just remember to meter your contrast ratios.

You can make effective snoots out of black wrap. You also have more control in a tight space and can still bounce them.

Mar 21 07 03:07 pm Link

Photographer

BlindMike

Posts: 9594

San Francisco, California, US

If I was trying to integrate the environment, then I'd put the light outside the window, angle it into the room, and work what's naturally there.

Mar 21 07 03:11 pm Link

Photographer

Chris Beyond

Posts: 1526

Tustin, California, US

Don Spiro wrote:
It depends on the look you want and if the environment has a light of bright reflective surfaces. If you want really soft illumination go with the diffusion and bounce and just light everything. If you're going for a sculpted modeling look or want something more interesting consider snooting the lights and going direct. If you;re shooting film just remember to meter your contrast ratios.

You can make effective snoots out of black wrap. You also have more control in a tight space and can still bounce them.

Wow, Don, this is the first post I've seen of yours here!

As you may know I just did that shoot with Augusta and VVH and it was my first true lighting experience since I usually go natural with digital in post.

For the most part it was fine although I still have a LOT to learn about lighting (and Laurie Wilson was with me to help who doesn't use lights a lot, but was an expert next to me)! I won't say who, but one of the models kept burning out no matter how I adjusted the lights and I ended up using the room lighting and my own flash to get good pictures of this person (who was wearing all black head to toe with a black background.

My guess was that because this outfit was different from everyone else's and covered more, that a different lighting scenario was needed, but because of time restraints I couldn't do much more than turn lights away or move them too far. Any suggestions for this in the future to save myself some computer time?

~ Chris

Mar 21 07 03:19 pm Link

Photographer

Silver Mirage

Posts: 1585

Plainview, Texas, US

It really depends more on the style you want to do than the room size, although obviously you don't need a ton of power and you don't have room for really big softboxes.

If the room has white walls and ceiling you can probably use them as reflectors. A light bounced off a white wall or corner can be a very effective soft light. On the other hand, if the walls have strong color you may find white balance a real challenge.

On location, I normally use 2 or 3 hotshoe flashes on stands, one of them modified to use with a pan reflector (beauty dish), the others either bounced in the room or with umbrellas. I have stopped carrying softboxes on location; for me they are too much hassle and bulk, even though they can offer a bit more control than umbrellas. Along the same lines, I got tired of looking for AC outlets, trying to hide cords and so on. Unless I really need the power or plan to be doing more than a few hundred flashes, the AC stuff stays in the van. 

To save myself typing, you can find techniques and equipment very similar to what I use at strobist.com -- and he probably explains it better than I can.

Mar 21 07 11:16 pm Link

Photographer

HEF Photography

Posts: 1817

Jacksonville, Florida, US

A window and reflector....first choice...

Softbox and reflect....2nd

Umbrella and reflector....3rd

Pair of umbrellas.....4th

Mar 21 07 11:22 pm Link