Forums > Digital Art and Retouching > HighPass Sucks (+ solution)

Photographer

Gibson Photo Art

Posts: 7990

Phoenix, Arizona, US

The Divine Emily Fine wrote:
And with that, I am officially going to kill your math teacher. I really could not understand a one word you said there. Though I do appreciate the organisation of your discussion, as much as I couldn't understand what you meant.

Follow the steps and play around. I think especially you will appreciate the technique considering your style of photography.

Apr 19 09 07:33 am Link

Photographer

BTHPhoto

Posts: 6985

Fairbanks, Alaska, US

Yingwah Productions wrote:

Under blending, further down theres "Add" and "Subtract" not what you have selected (linear dodge add).

Thanks.  I kinda feel dumb, but at least it works now. smile

Apr 19 09 08:12 am Link

Photographer

149

Posts: 4193

San Diego, California, US

The Divine Emily Fine wrote:
Though I do appreciate the organization of your discussion, as much as I couldn't understand what you meant. I really wish I could understand how all those words translate in picture form.

+1
over technical imo

Apr 19 09 05:14 pm Link

Photographer

Ex Voto Studio

Posts: 4985

Columbia, Maryland, US

Thanks Doc!!  I tried it out quickly and will play with it some more tomorrow!

-troy

Apr 19 09 05:47 pm Link

Photographer

Jarrad Kevin

Posts: 578

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

Sean Baker wrote:
Just wait till you apply a clipping-masked curves layer to that high-frequency layer wink.

^ This is no joke... that really takes it to a new level.

The more I experiment with this technique the more I like it.

Apr 19 09 05:47 pm Link

Photographer

Sean Baker Photo

Posts: 8044

San Antonio, Texas, US

The Divine Emily Fine wrote:
And with that, I am officially going to kill your math teacher. I really could not understand a one word you said there. Though I do appreciate the organisation of your discussion, as much as I couldn't understand what you meant. I really wish I could understand how all those words translate in picture form.

I'm sorry if my explanation is obtuse (math pun intended), but if you'd point out where I lost you I'd really like to try to explain this better; you're not the only one to be confused by what I've said.  This is my first time trying to write any sort of informative / tutorial post on this forum, and I'm sure there are aspects which could have been better explained.  The photo I posted illustrating the difference which a traditional HP solution introduces not surprisingly comes from my avatar, if that in any way aids in your visual interpretation of my description.  If there are additional references I can provide to the group, I'd be happy to do so.

I do hope that you'll forgive me for using a format which I'm otherwise comfortable with in elucidating it originallly - my only excuse is, it's what I know.

Tim Hammond wrote:

Thanks.  I kinda feel dumb, but at least it works now. smile

Don't.  If it weren't for Mr. Randall, I probably still wouldn't know that there was such a thing as an Apply Image command.  I saw it back in PS 3.0, but was too young to understand what it could mean for me.

Jarrad Kevin wrote:
^ This is no joke... that really takes it to a new level.

The more I experiment with this technique the more I like it.

Like I say, it's not that this technique is so much different in most practical aspects of 'traditional' HP usage - it's just far more accurate in separating the data, and consequently more aesthetically pleasing when properly applied.

Apr 19 09 07:23 pm Link

Photographer

A_Nova_Photography

Posts: 8652

Winston-Salem, North Carolina, US

I need to play with this some....

Apr 19 09 07:29 pm Link

Photographer

Jerry Bennett

Posts: 2223

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, US

Oooh a new toy to play with! Thank you!

Apr 19 09 11:14 pm Link

Photographer

Mani - poplifePhoto

Posts: 323

Oakland, California, US

pops & whistles baby, that's all I hear.
But i *AM* looking forward to trying this out.

Thank you for sharing precise steps/details; your generosity in knowledge sharing is inspiring.

Apr 19 09 11:39 pm Link

Photographer

Cuervo79

Posts: 1059

Guatemala, Guatemala, Guatemala

Sean, I'm feeling left out to people that understand the difference, could you give a
"dumber" explanation so that I can understand??

This lack of understanding may also be that I rarely have put any real attention to sharpening on my images.

I did see on the photos I tried it on comparing it to plain HP that you get more sharp but less "artifacts" like the HP layer did, I also tried your clipping mask and found it very interesting, a way to bump up the sharpen even more (just playing with the curves adjustment layer opacity).

Is the "less artifacts" the importance of this technique? I'm starting to like it, I was comparing a layer I used with SS and the technique you're explaining and it looked sharper with less "artifacts"

Apr 20 09 12:03 am Link

Photographer

IMS FotoGrafix

Posts: 1153

Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

Wow !
Copied and saved.
Thats the kind of detail I crave so thanks for posting this :-D
I'm going to give this a go when I have time, hopefully that's soon.
Cheers

Apr 20 09 12:12 am Link

Photographer

The Divine Emily Fine

Posts: 20454

Owings Mills, Maryland, US

Sean Baker wrote:

The Divine Emily Fine wrote:
And with that, I am officially going to kill your math teacher. I really could not understand a one word you said there. Though I do appreciate the organisation of your discussion, as much as I couldn't understand what you meant. I really wish I could understand how all those words translate in picture form.

I'm sorry if my explanation is obtuse (math pun intended), but if you'd point out where I lost you I'd really like to try to explain this better; you're not the only one to be confused by what I've said.  This is my first time trying to write any sort of informative / tutorial post on this forum, and I'm sure there are aspects which could have been better explained.  The photo I posted illustrating the difference which a traditional HP solution introduces not surprisingly comes from my avatar, if that in any way aids in your visual interpretation of my description.  If there are additional references I can provide to the group, I'd be happy to do so.

I do hope that you'll forgive me for using a format which I'm otherwise comfortable with in elucidating it originallly - my only excuse is, it's what I know.

Tim Hammond wrote:
Thanks.  I kinda feel dumb, but at least it works now. smile

Don't.  If it weren't for Mr. Randall, I probably still wouldn't know that there was such a thing as an Apply Image command.  I saw it back in PS 3.0, but was too young to understand what it could mean for me.


Like I say, it's not that this technique is so much different in most practical aspects of 'traditional' HP usage - it's just far more accurate in separating the data, and consequently more aesthetically pleasing when properly applied.

right around the first mention of "spatial frequency"

Apr 20 09 12:19 am Link

Photographer

- Jake -

Posts: 794

Salt Lake City, Utah, US

Sean Baker wrote:
Now Clone Stamp (I can't ever remember the name of the command - anyone?) the entire scene by pressing Shift+Ctrl+Alt+E (Cmd+Shift+Alt+E on Mac).

i think its just called stamp visible. and as a disclaimer to aid you in your advice - it will only work if you have a visible layer selected. if you are on a layer with pixels it will just create a new layer above the selected layer with the copy of the whole thing, and if you are on a blank layer it will insert the copy into it.

Apr 20 09 12:30 am Link

Photographer

harro

Posts: 98

New Plymouth, Taranaki, New Zealand

Hey Sean. thanks for this. I'm getting my head around it. So I did it, and couldn't see any difference, then realized I must do something to this top layer also for sharpening.... DOH!

so, my question is.. what is the next step? I just tried what I thought to be a high pass sharpen on that layer with no luck.

Thanks, your time is appreciated!

Apr 20 09 01:25 am Link

Photographer

Cuervo79

Posts: 1059

Guatemala, Guatemala, Guatemala

harro wrote:
Hey Sean. thanks for this. I'm getting my head around it. So I did it, and couldn't see any difference, then realized I must do something to this top layer also for sharpening.... DOH!

so, my question is.. what is the next step? I just tried what I thought to be a high pass sharpen on that layer with no luck.

Thanks, your time is appreciated!

From what I could gather, it sharpens but doesn't get more "artifacts" like regular HP.

Compare a High pass sharpening layer to the one Sean describes and you'll see its sharper but doesn't have more "artifacts" (for me it looks like grain)

Apr 20 09 01:40 am Link

Photographer

Sean Baker Photo

Posts: 8044

San Antonio, Texas, US

Cuervo79 wrote:
Is the "less artifacts" the importance of this technique? I'm starting to like it, I was comparing a layer I used with SS and the technique you're explaining and it looked sharper with less "artifacts"

Exactly what the technique is trying to do.  By better / more accurately / with fewer artifacts separating the fine details from the larger image, you can do more with each before you run into a perceptible degradation in quality.

The Divine Emily Fine wrote:
right around the first mention of "spatial frequency"

Ignore that part then.  Seriously.  The important part is the understanding that if you would otherwise be using the HP filter to do something, this is another way of doing it which will give you a higher-quality result.  OTOH, if you'd like a more practically-based example of what spatial frequency is about, I'll point you to the research which opened my eyes to its relevance in art here (scroll midway down the page).

- Jake - wrote:
i think its just called stamp visible. and as a disclaimer to aid you in your advice - it will only work if you have a visible layer selected. if you are on a layer with pixels it will just create a new layer above the selected layer with the copy of the whole thing, and if you are on a blank layer it will insert the copy into it.

Noted, and thank you.  I'll update the OP shortly.

harro wrote:
so, my question is.. what is the next step? I just tried what I thought to be a high pass sharpen on that layer with no luck.

Thanks, your time is appreciated!

To use this technique for HP-type sharpening, copy the top layer generated by the action back to the top of your original document.  The effect should be immediately apparent.  And as suggested to others, you can apply a clipped curves layer to it to heighten the effect, run SS on it, or anything else which enters your mind.  The uses for the separation are only limited by what we choose to create with it.

Apr 20 09 01:59 am Link

Photographer

harro

Posts: 98

New Plymouth, Taranaki, New Zealand

O.k, I'm going to be a total dufus here....

I did this, first by the action, and then through the tutorial, and I couldn't see a difference at all in the image at the end of the action or tutorial. I did it on a 16 bit and was looking at it at 100%. So, sahould I be seeing a difference, or is there something more I need to do?


Cuervo79 wrote:

From what I could gather, it sharpens but doesn't get more "artifacts" like regular HP.

Compare a High pass sharpening layer to the one Sean describes and you'll see its sharper but doesn't have more "artifacts" (for me it looks like grain)

Apr 20 09 02:02 am Link

Photographer

harro

Posts: 98

New Plymouth, Taranaki, New Zealand

ah right, ok, thanks.

Sean Baker wrote:

Cuervo79 wrote:
Is the "less artifacts" the importance of this technique? I'm starting to like it, I was comparing a layer I used with SS and the technique you're explaining and it looked sharper with less "artifacts"

Exactly what the technique is trying to do.  By better / more accurately / with fewer artifacts separating the fine details from the larger image, you can do more with each before you run into a perceptible degradation in quality.

The Divine Emily Fine wrote:
right around the first mention of "spatial frequency"

Ignore that part then.  Seriously.  The important part is the understanding that if you would otherwise be using the HP filter to do something, this is another way of doing it which will give you a higher-quality result.  OTOH, if you'd like a more practically-based example of what spatial frequency is about, I'll point you to the research which opened my eyes to its relevance in art here (scroll midway down the page).

- Jake - wrote:
i think its just called stamp visible. and as a disclaimer to aid you in your advice - it will only work if you have a visible layer selected. if you are on a layer with pixels it will just create a new layer above the selected layer with the copy of the whole thing, and if you are on a blank layer it will insert the copy into it.

Noted, and thank you.  I'll update the OP shortly.


To use this technique for HP-type sharpening, copy the top layer generated by the action back to the top of your original document.  The effect should be immediately apparent.  And as suggested to others, you can apply a clipped curves layer to it to heighten the effect, run SS on it, or anything else which enters your mind.  The uses for the separation are only limited by what we choose to create with it.

Apr 20 09 02:04 am Link

Photographer

Cuervo79

Posts: 1059

Guatemala, Guatemala, Guatemala

harro wrote:
ah right, ok, thanks.


I saw the differences quickly once I used 3 or 4 as the number to use, then you'll see the "less artifacts" on the technique Sean wrote compared to HP

Apr 20 09 02:09 am Link

Photographer

Sean Baker Photo

Posts: 8044

San Antonio, Texas, US

Edit: NM; seems this was already answered.

Apr 20 09 02:10 am Link

Photographer

harro

Posts: 98

New Plymouth, Taranaki, New Zealand

Yes, got it. This is genius Sean! Thanks for sharing!

Apr 20 09 02:17 am Link

Photographer

Moving Exposure

Posts: 277

DeSoto, Texas, US

Sean Baker wrote:
I'm sorry if my explanation is obtuse (math pun intended), but if you'd point out where I lost you I'd really like to try to explain this better; you're not the only one to be confused by what I've said.

"Bottom Line Up Front: High Pass is an inaccurate spatial-frequency based separation technique"

I guess you lost me at hello.  INACCURATE SPATIAL-FREQUENCY. 

I do appreciate techniques and I have been using PS for a very long time but you kind of just dove right into the really technical stuff. For those who had an idea of what you were talking about it made sense, but for those of us who didn't it was right out of a science fiction movie.

Even though I hate math I do understand and appreciate learning helpful techniques but pictures are always helpful in my learning. smile

Apr 20 09 08:30 am Link

Retoucher

James Minshall

Posts: 218

Bedford, Indiana, US

thanks, thanks and THANKS!

I've been so busy lately that I've stuck solely to the workflow.  I'll definately toy around with this and add it as needed.

again.. THANKS!

Apr 20 09 09:06 am Link

Photographer

Sean Baker Photo

Posts: 8044

San Antonio, Texas, US

Moving Exposure wrote:
I guess you lost me at hello.  INACCURATE SPATIAL-FREQUENCY. 

I do appreciate techniques and I have been using PS for a very long time but you kind of just dove right into the really technical stuff. For those who had an idea of what you were talking about it made sense, but for those of us who didn't it was right out of a science fiction movie.

50409 posted an explanation about spatial frequency last year ( here ) which can hopefully clarify what spatial frequencies are.  It's the creative application of that understanding, though, which becomes the art (sharpening being one idea).

And if his old post doesn't clarify, or you still have lingering question(s), please ask.  I just don't want to spend a few hours putting together a spatial frequency primer if the existing one covers it adequately.   I gladly will if you guys point out what questions you still have though.

Apr 20 09 09:08 am Link

Photographer

Brandon S Warren

Posts: 215

Winchester, Virginia, US

*sigh

Apr 20 09 10:12 am Link

Photographer

biwa

Posts: 2594

Pinole, California, US

* goes back to learning where layers are supposed to be *

Apr 20 09 01:20 pm Link

Photographer

Michael Magers

Posts: 4050

Fullerton, California, US

WOW.  This is a great addition.  Thanks for the action as well. 

Reminds me of a book I am reading about how the instructor bet one of his students he could sharpen an image WITHOUT the use of a sharpen filter and using the Gaussian Blur. 

Thanks again.

Apr 20 09 01:52 pm Link

Photographer

Photography by J

Posts: 792

Oxford, Ohio, US

AidanJamesphotography wrote:
WOW.  This is a great addition.  Thanks for the action as well. 

Reminds me of a book I am reading about how the instructor bet one of his students he could sharpen an image WITHOUT the use of a sharpen filter and using the Gaussian Blur. 

Thanks again.

Not to hijack, but you'd be an idiot to bet against there being at least a dozen ways to do almost anything in Photoshop. big_smile

Apr 20 09 01:55 pm Link

Photographer

Black Russian Studio

Posts: 1431

New York, New York, US

Thanks for sharing.
This is totaly new method for me. I gave it quick try, and so far I would say it wouldn't replace my favorite method of sharpening, which would be selective 3 stage sharpening from Bruce Fraser book Image Sharpening with Adobe Photoshop CS2 (only I use 2 stage luminocity channel sharpening + curves in Lab mode on 3rd stage for output sharpening, so it becomes more like 6 stage sharpening in my case, LOL).
However, this method does wonder in case when "re-focusing" needed in the picture, when main object in the picture came out out of focus. Normaly I would using octave sharpening for it, using 2 time unsharp mask, once with small radius, once with medium radius, and then HP with large radius to finish. It improves pic till some extend, but never satisfactory.
Here I used modification of your method. Sharpening 2 times one with gausian blur radius 23, and second time with GB radius 5.7. Both times I used layer mask to reduce amount of sharpening applied to areas already in focus, and both times I applied sharpening at 140% (by duplicating sharpening layer).
Here results on old pic shot at event with Olympus C5060 point ant shoot digicam 4 years ago. Here I would like focus to be on girl on the right, but it is not what came out of the camera. And using your method (lil-bit modified) produced way better results than I been able achieve before.
Here is before
https://blackrussianstudios.smugmug.com/photos/517130881_pDVmw-XL.jpg

and here is after
https://blackrussianstudios.smugmug.com/photos/517130994_72KtZ-XL.jpg

To see at 100% here is link to original shot
http://blackrussianstudios.smugmug.com/ … Vmw-X3.jpg

and here is link for re-focused version
http://blackrussianstudios.smugmug.com/ … KtZ-X3.jpg

Apr 20 09 05:11 pm Link

Photographer

Alfiere

Posts: 1562

Scottsdale, Arizona, US

Photo Visions wrote:
I am not going to read all that.

I look to create an image i can enjoy.

You take the joy out of photography.

x2
Does it look ok.. was it fun to make.. if yes to both you are on the right path..

Apr 20 09 05:16 pm Link

Photographer

Robert Randall

Posts: 13890

Chicago, Illinois, US

Alfiere wrote:

x2
Does it look ok.. was it fun to make.. if yes to both you are on the right path..

..to mediocrity!

Apr 20 09 06:32 pm Link

Photographer

Brian Morris Photography

Posts: 20901

Los Angeles, California, US

Thanks for the shinny nuggets SEAN!

Apr 20 09 06:32 pm Link

Photographer

Alan John Images

Posts: 818

Washington, District of Columbia, US

What do you do if you don't have photoshop? Does this tutorial suggest that if you don't have PS, certain images that could be improved by using these methods cannot attain a certain aesthetic level, and are therefore "lost."

Apr 20 09 06:42 pm Link

Photographer

Chris N

Posts: 1401

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

Christ almighty, you're freakin' smart!

Haha, thanks for that. I'm going to try my best to understand it and give it a go.

Apr 20 09 06:48 pm Link

Photographer

Sean Baker Photo

Posts: 8044

San Antonio, Texas, US

Alan John Images wrote:
What do you do if you don't have photoshop? Does this tutorial suggest that if you don't have PS, certain images that could be improved by using these methods cannot attain a certain aesthetic level, and are therefore "lost."

While I've not tested it, the technique should be 100% replicable with only minor change in other free imaging software such as The GIMP.  OTOH, I'm not sure that GIMP ever had a high pass effect, so ... this is just bonus?  Hopefully someone who's used it more recently than I can comment on HP availability in the newer versions.

In any case, there's never a need for any of these techniques.  In fact, if I were more proficient with my camera & lights, I'd have never needed to learn any of them wink.

Apr 20 09 06:50 pm Link

Photographer

Cuervo79

Posts: 1059

Guatemala, Guatemala, Guatemala

Sean Baker wrote:
While I've not tested it, the technique should be 100% replicable with only minor change in other free imaging software such as The GIMP.  OTOH, I'm not sure that GIMP ever had a high pass effect, so ... this is just bonus?  Hopefully someone who's used it more recently than I can comment on HP availability in the newer versions.

In any case, there's never a need for any of these techniques.  In fact, if I were more proficient with my camera & lights, I'd have never needed to learn any of them wink.

Most DSLR cameras still have the filter in front of the sensor to soften the image so you don't get weird image effects with fine patterns. So I'm thinking even if my level of taking photos rises, there is still some stuff you can't have "in camera"

Alan John Images wrote:
What do you do if you don't have photoshop? Does this tutorial suggest that if you don't have PS, certain images that could be improved by using these methods cannot attain a certain aesthetic level, and are therefore "lost."

Aesthetic level is one thing, wanting to sharpen for more detail display is another.

Apr 20 09 07:00 pm Link

Photographer

Sean Baker Photo

Posts: 8044

San Antonio, Texas, US

Cuervo79 wrote:
Most DSLR cameras still have the filter in front of the sensor to soften the image so you don't get weird image effects with fine patterns. So I'm thinking even if my level of taking photos rises, there is still some stuff you can't have "in camera"

I don't know... where there's money there's a way.  I just don't have that kind of money smile.

Apr 20 09 07:08 pm Link

Photographer

Jim Lafferty

Posts: 2125

Brooklyn, New York, US

Interesting. I have FocalBlade and use it occasionally, and it seems to do similar things, though with finer control.

I applaud and appreciate your sharing. Your tutorial reminded me a lot of the DeGrunge technique popularized on RetouchPro.

All this is to say my preferred sharpening technique is to buy good glass, and hit those AF points big_smile

Apr 20 09 08:01 pm Link

Photographer

Herman van Gestel

Posts: 2266

Amsterdam, Noord-Holland, Netherlands

Kudo's it gives indeed cleaner images, without too many artifacts...it's cleaner than HP...

So liittle time to experiment around, but this is worth while...

what do you actually mean with clipped curve?

in any case, great!

Herman

Apr 21 09 12:02 am Link

Photographer

Darin B

Posts: 998

San Diego, California, US

Thank you for this. I haven't figured it out yet, but I will.

D

Apr 21 09 12:19 am Link