Do you use calibrated monitor. I mean hardware calibrated. Probably your settings are off. I see very little almost no banding. And that is most likely because of the limitations of my display and probably not in the gradient itself.
My Imac is harware calibrated. It seems that only mac users of this forum can see banding.
I get banding with anything i do in photoshop that has to do somethin with soft brushes or feathering and usual tricks like adding noise on overlay gray layer help a bit but not that much realy.
Yes, banding is definitely there. To see it more easily, add a Levels adjustment layer and drag the end points in. The more contrast you add this way, the more the bands will show up.
To remove it, add some noise and then gaussian blur the result. Won't get rid of 100%, but can help. Sometimes doing that in gradual steps works even better.
There have been lots of disussions about this. Many claim that banding is a result of working in 8 bit mode. That's somewhat true when applying tone/contrast adjustments to "natural" areas like skies. But long ago, some guru claimed that the adjustment brush and gradient tools in Photoshop operate in 8 bit mode even when you are working on a 16 bit image. I believe that, and I think this sample demonstrates it.
Use a large soft black brush on a white background and you get some banding, regardless of whether the image is 8 bit or 16 bit.
I, too, am on a Mac, with two calibrated monitors, one an LCD, the other a CRT.
On the page, viewed through my browser, I see banding in both. But I dragged the images to PhotoShop, and I immediately see two things: (1) the image files in PS display no banding; and (2) both image files are in the Adobe RGB color space.
It is the second item that is, I think, the problem. While Safari (my web browser) is supposed to be color-space aware, I'm not sure it always is.
I think the issue is that being in Adobe RGB is what creates the problem.
Best way to deal with it is to do the work in 16 bit. Then put 1% or 2% noise in before reducing to 8 bit for printing.
Helps to have extra memory installed to work in 16 bit, or most operations will be a little slower. In earlier versions of PS there are some operations that you can't do in 16 bit. Also, your save times in PS will be longer.
Yea I see a lot of it in both. I'm not sure if you're trying to get rid of it? I get this too at times. I usually add a little bit of noise (gaussian and monochromatic selected) then I gaussian blur it. It helps reduce the banding a lot for me.
I see clear visible banding in second image. Is it normal? Yep but not maybe not desirable. Shoot Raw, work in 16bit, avoid heavy processing like levels, saturation, and add a little noise if needed as mentioned. Save at best quality for particular output.
Redcrown wrote: Yes, banding is definitely there. To see it more easily, add a Levels adjustment layer and drag the end points in. The more contrast you add this way, the more the bands will show up.
This won't just help you see possible banding, this will also create banding where there was none before!
I see banding in the second image in Firefox but there is none in the original images when I look at them in Photoshop. I'm using a 30" NEC wide gamut monitor on a PC.
Even if you are on a low end/uncalibrated monitor and suspect banding, look at your histogram. If it has gaps in it, that's a sign of possible banding. If it is smooth, you are probably OK. The histogram for both of these images is smooth in PS.
The banding is there (you can analyse it mathematically in Photoshop) - as it will be in any 8-bit file with a big, smooth gradient (so all you guys with 10-bit monitors who aren't seeing it: you may be having calibration problems - I went through quite a few third-party calibration apps, with my i1 Display2, before I found one that could give me good blacks ... Argyle and the stock software: terrible crushed blacks ... or it could be that your monitor or graphics h/w is interpolating for you - which could be a problem)
Most new iMacs and Macbooks-post 2010 should give you an 8-bit display, as does the iPad (at least from iPad 2)
Banding's worse through image preview because it's (I assume) doing a cruder AdobeRGB conversion (more rounding error), but in Photoshop you should be able to see banding all the way to the blacks, albeit smoother ... Best practical solution: (1) convert to sRGB; (2) do all your processing at 16-bit
A PRO monitor(NEC PA/P, Eizo CG/SX, Quato Intelli Proof) with a programmable hardware internal LUT will have 45º calibration curves...
All consumer grade calibration devices have difficult into reading the darker parts(which make the matter worse), the X-rite i1Display pro/ColorMunki Display are better.
Benski , matrix profiles will have better gradient than LUT profiles, try the new argyll+dispcalGUI with “black point compensation” to avoid black crush, also a single curve+matrix will give better neutrals and curves + matrix, better colors.