I just shot 3 different lovely young ladies and they are patient with my limited spare time especially during the editing process. They all keep asking me for unedited copies of all of them. How do I go about doing this. I feel like there has to be someway to make a separate set copies without losing the original raw files so I can burn them to a disk for them. I should have mentioned that i have CS5. I have lightroom3 but i never use it as i am just more comfortable with camera raw and photoshop.
Also if anyone has any tips on low light focusing. My eyes aren't the greatest so I rely on autofocus. I seem to prefer darker images and have no modeling light. How do you provide enough light for your camera to focus on the model?
Thank so much for any and all your help. It is greatly appreciated. Maybe I can come clean your room as a thank you.
You need to convert the raw using lightroom or photoshop or some other type of raw to jpg etc program.
You can measure the distance between the lens and the model and turn the focus ring to that amount of foot distance.
Are you shooting Nikon or Canon? ViewNX2, which ships with Nikon bodies, can convert NEFs to JPG and also resize them to whatever you like. I assume Canon has something similar.
- Get some kind of online gallery (Zenfolio, Smug Mug, Flikr) and upload your pics there for the Models to review.
- Use a flash light and a tripod. Use the flashlight to get focus, turn it off. Keep your camera on a tripod so that you don't lose your composition when you turn of the flash light.
LC pictures wrote: I just shot 3 different lovely young ladies and they are patient with my limited spare time especially during the editing process. They all keep asking me for unedited copies of all of them. How do I go about doing this. I feel like there has to be someway to make Joey copies so I can burn them to a disk for them.
ACDsee 14 can do this.
It can resize as a second step.
LC pictures wrote: Also if anyone has any tips on low light focusing. My eyes aren't the greatest so I rely on autofocus. I seem to prefer darker images and have no modeling light. How do you provide enough light for your camera to focus on the model?
I usually shoot with the house lights on. This doesn't always work. I'm thinking of getting a weak video light.
Natural Means
Posts: 287
Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
Can your camera capture raw+ ?
Best of both worlds a raw image to process and a jpeg (option from low res to high res) to email distribute or whatever. I always shoot raw + with low res jpeg about 200-300k.
Kaouthia
Posts: 3,080
Lancaster, England, United Kingdom
LC pictures wrote: They all keep asking me for unedited copies of all of them. How do I go about doing this.
I usually sort the problem by telling them I don't let unedited work out.
But, if you must, Lightroom's the quickest and easiest way. Just select the lot, autotone 'em, and export to JPG, with whatever size limitations and sharpening requirements you need.
LC pictures wrote: Also if anyone has any tips on low light focusing. My eyes aren't the greatest so I rely on autofocus. I seem to prefer darker images and have no modeling light. How do you provide enough light for your camera to focus on the model?
Use a flashlight, or the light from your mobile phone.
A free and simple to use program that will convert them (most likely anyway, you'll need to verify your model is supported) is Goggle's Picasa software. It's an image library tool and also has basic editing capabilities. It's very simple to export a library of RAW images to a folder in jpeg format resized for the web.
Here is free program that pulls a jpeg out of the raw file. No other program necessary. Good enough for the models to preview. Which is all you want them to do anyways. I hope.
LC pictures wrote: im trying lightroom but i dont know the program. How to i select more than one image? Sorry if these are ridiculous questions
same as windows. click the first image in the series you want to select then hold shift while clicking the last. hold ctrl while clicking to deselect individual bad images within the selection.
same as windows. click the first image in the series you want to select then hold shift while clicking the last. hold ctrl while clicking to deselect individual bad images within the selection.
or vice-versa, just hold control down and select the ones you want.
WMcK
Posts: 5,187
Glasgow, Scotland, United Kingdom
Mike Collins wrote: Here is free program that pulls a jpeg out of the raw file. No other program necessary. Good enough for the models to preview. Which is all you want them to do anyways. I hope.
I have used that program a lot to provide Jpegs do my initial selection. It also on one occasion saved an image where the Raw had been corrupted, but thankfully with the fully usable embedded Jpeg still intact.
photoimager
Posts: 4,111
Stoke-on-Trent, England, United Kingdom
OP, you have CS5 & LR so you already have software that will do the job simply. Bridge ( comes with Photoshop ) will do this simply and, like LR, you can even do web galleries straight off.
If you use in-camera processing settings then you are better off using the camera maker's own software. Nikon's CNX2 or the free ViewNX2, Canon's DPP.
Would I do what you are proposing to do ?
No. There are exceptions such as when printing on-site at an event or when it is agreed with the client that they are just proofs and I put a logo across them stating that.
Would I let images from photoshoots accumulate ?
No, if I'm too busy to process the previous photoshoot then I'm too busy to be taking on another one.
Kaouthia wrote: I usually sort the problem by telling them I don't let unedited work out.
This.
And this...
photoimager wrote: Would I do what you are proposing to do ?
No. There are exceptions such as when printing on-site at an event or when it is agreed with the client that they are just proofs and I put a logo across them stating that.
I respect and understand th reasons behind not wanting to provide in sorted and un edited images. I'm still new and am learning. How ever these girls are letting me learn and practice and they are trying to do the same. In the future I may feel different but they all asked for the for the same reasons. They want to see how they look and there expressions and poses to be more conscious of mistakes and what doesn't look flattering. I figure I can ruin a reputation I don't have and we all agree to share and not share images without requesting permission from one another.
I figured out the Lightroom export and that seems to be easier for me then cs5. The batch had to be confirmed each image as it was processing a batch and Lightroom didn't. Thank you all again for your help
shoot raw+jpeg and give them the jpegs (although some photographers frown on that practice). otherwise you have to export as jpeg from your raw converter (you can batch that with lightroom and aperture).
you can have some ambient light and not have it show up in the image if you are using flash. take a test shot without the flashes to see if anything records. if i have the house lights off, curtains drawn and no modeling light i can't focus without a flashlight.
SoCo n Lime
Posts: 3,202
Glasgow, Scotland, United Kingdom
if your using bridge to browse (i assume) before opening into raw converter then photoshop then do this...
select all the images you want to convert to jpeg in bridge by clicking on the far left file once, then scroll to the far right image and holding down shift key and click the image this should highlight all the images (select the images)
(you can alternativly go to the header and choose the options edit>select all which will highlight all the files in folder being viewed)
next step go to the header then select these options tools>photoshop>image processor
your photoshop will open up and a window will appear giving you options to choose from.. as long as you have save as jpeg ticked and in the same location you will end up with a folder named jpeg in the current open folder in bridge and all those files will be unedited jpeg versions of your raw pictures. burn to a cd and your good to go
in the window that opens you can use actions to do all sorts of things. i like to size them by using actions combined with this method so i dont have lots of a4 files 6x4 or 6x9s are fine for most gigs. however the difference for me is that only files making it to this stage is the select few and are processed in raw first by opening them up adjusting what i have to and closing down.
i would however urge you to think about how your work is received i.e your the Quality Control so yes by all means when starting out give them lots of choice but the better you get the less you have to do this
SoCo n Lime
Posts: 3,202
Glasgow, Scotland, United Kingdom
flash lights are quite powerful having any exposure setting that doesn't allow any ambient recording is your answer.. as long as the gap between ambient lighting setting and flash is maintained you can have your studio as bright as you want
even at 1/200s i start to pick up some light from my overhead fluorescents so i usually turn them off. but i'm usually shooting at like f5.6.
SoCo n Lime wrote: flash lights are quite powerful having any exposure setting that doesn't allow any ambient recording is your answer.. as long as the gap between ambient lighting setting and flash is maintained you can have your studio as bright as you want
I agree with the post about not letting out unedited images. Aside from that I use a program called Able Batch Converter. I'm pretty sure I paid for it. I see some suggestions for free software in some of the previous posts too, but thought I'd throw in my .02cents
samsationalphotos wrote: Yep I use Picasa 3.9 to do this and it works perfectly. I have not had any problems or complaints so far. Good luck to you and happy shooting.
twoharts wrote: shoot raw+jpeg and give them the jpegs (although some photographers frown on that practice). otherwise you have to export as jpeg from your raw converter (you can batch that with lightroom and aperture).
This. Also, familiarize yourself with the "actions" function of CS5. You can use that to resize large batches of jpgs in a semi automated manner. It will speed up your workflow immensely.
twoharts wrote: you can have some ambient light and not have it show up in the image if you are using flash. take a test shot without the flashes to see if anything records. if i have the house lights off, curtains drawn and no modeling light i can't focus without a flashlight.
I understand the part about darkening the room to make the "light" obvious. However, you do not need to leave it dark if you use photoshop. You can darken images, change exposure, etc with RAW and even with CS5. Most photographers will recommend slightly underexposing digital images. You have the "information" to work with when you edit. If the image is overexposed, there is less information to work with.
Top Level Studio
Posts: 3,208
Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Some Pentax models, like the K-5, have focus assist lights that allow them to focus in total darkness if needed.
Also, some shoe mount flashes (I'm most familiar with Metz) have focussing beams to assist the camera. With a flash like that, you could dial down its power and swivel the head away from the subject so the focus beam would hit the subject, but not the flash output.
Also, as other posters have mentioned, you don't have to have a dark studio to get dark images.
photoimager
Posts: 4,111
Stoke-on-Trent, England, United Kingdom
Light and Lens Studio wrote: I understand the part about darkening the room to make the "light" obvious. However, you do not need to leave it dark if you use photoshop. You can darken images, change exposure, etc with RAW and even with CS5.
And, if you have the lighting skills, as soon as you do that in post as opposed to at capture you are wasting time and/or ultimate quality.
Just a quick note, If your using pentax cameras,the software that comes with the camera does an automatic RAW to Jeg conversion for you in several quality levels. Also will convert to TIFF.
Use "Photo Browser" follow instructions. Will do DNG or PEF depending on which camera you have.
You can also buy the latest software disk (version 4) by calling pentax direct if you want to have the latest version with all the new bells and whistles. Only $25 for the disk
I took someone's advice about auto toning and when I exported them they became very over exposed. I went back and turned off the auto tone and re wrote all the images in the Jpeg file. then burned them again, after looking at them today they are the same. Over exposed and blown out. I just wanted an exact copy. I'll try again tonight.
Also I shoot with a k20d. There is no focus assist. the room I was shooting in was lit with one lamp that was blocked in most areas that I was shooting in. The room overall was not dark to the eye but if there was no direct light on her face the camera struggled to focus. I will post 1 image that I liked from yesterday later tonight. Please if you would like I could use constructive criticism. Keep in mind I'm a new and learning hobbiest
LC pictures wrote: I took someone's advice about auto toning and when I exported them they became very over exposed. I went back and turned off the auto tone and re wrote all the images in the Jpeg file. then burned them again, after looking at them today they are the same. Over exposed and blown out. I just wanted an exact copy. I'll try again tonight.
Also I shoot with a k20d. There is no focus assist. the room I was shooting in was lit with one lamp that was blocked in most areas that I was shooting in. The room overall was not dark to the eye but if there was no direct light on her face the camera struggled to focus. I will post 1 image that I liked from yesterday later tonight. Please if you would like I could use constructive criticism. Keep in mind I'm a new and learning hobbiest
Have you checked the settings on the camera?? I have 2 K20D's and have had no trouble with the auto focus in very low light (or my older k-10's either)
If you have it set on AFC, possibly movement kept it from locking on (it will continue to constantly refocus as the camera moves) In the AFS position as long as you hold the shutter half way it should lock quickly and hold
KirstyWiseman
Posts: 48
Wigan, England, United Kingdom
i convert mine using the batch convertor via photoshop - but id never give out unedited photos. Not good for my reputation and not great for their portfolios.
LC pictures wrote: I respect and understand the reasons behind not wanting to provide un sorted and un edited images. I'm still new and am learning. How ever these girls are letting me learn and practice and they are trying to do the same. In the future I may feel different but they all asked for the for the same reasons. They want to see how they look and there expressions and poses to be more conscious of mistakes and what doesn't look flattering. I figure I can't ruin a reputation I don't have and we all agree to share and not share images without requesting permission from one another.
In that case I would go ahead and provide them with ALL the images...but you should go ahead and edit them first. What's a hundred images edited really going to cost you? Maybe 40hrs of your time at most? A Small price to pay for the 2-3hrs of intense work they provided you.
It's the least you can do for them, since they really just want to see if ALL their poses looked good and stuff. It's not like they're going to take your worst images and have their boyfriend poorly edit them for facebook/mayhem or anything.
I hope you gave them gas money/HiRes flash drive "proofs" too, at least.
Paul AI wrote: Are you shooting Nikon or Canon? ViewNX2, which ships with Nikon bodies, can convert NEFs to JPG and also resize them to whatever you like. I assume Canon has something similar.
Soco, as much as i appreciate the help i dont appreciate you being nasty. It was a question that you didnt need to answer if you dont want to be helpful. Its simple to convert one at a time but fore me being new i was having an issue with doing multiple for time sake. Thanks anyway
SoCo n Lime
Posts: 3,202
Glasgow, Scotland, United Kingdom
LC pictures wrote: Soco, as much as i appreciate the help i dont appreciate you being nasty. It was a question that you didnt need to answer if you dont want to be helpful. Its simple to convert one at a time but fore me being new i was having an issue with doing multiple for time sake. Thanks anyway
i did help you and i apologise if you think i was being nasty as this was not the case or intention had you taken into account the previous two posts helping you. i provided an option that would be easier than converting one at a time. i provided an option that converts them all at once and gives you a folder with unedited jpegs like you asked for..
I'm trying to warn you about a lesson it took me awhile to learn.
LC pictures wrote: I just shot 3 different lovely young ladies and they are patient with my limited spare time especially during the editing process. They all keep asking me for unedited copies of all of them. How do I go about doing this.
LC pictures wrote: I respect and understand th reasons behind not wanting to provide un sorted and un edited images. I'm still new and am learning. How ever these girls are letting me learn and practice and they are trying to do the same. In the future I may feel different but they all asked for the for the same reasons. They want to see how they look and there expressions and poses to be more conscious of mistakes and what doesn't look flattering. I figure I can ruin a reputation I don't have and we all agree to share and not share images without requesting permission from one another.
Those "kind and patient models" you mention have no business seeing or receiving copies of ALL your RAW files to verify their "expressions and poses". From my experience, that's just a bullshit line to get all the RAW files from you so that they can edit what they want, how they want (with or without your permission). Many new photographers feel so "indebted" to them for their 2hrs +/- of "modelling"...that they are willing to provide all that for "free", in spite of the obvious disrespect to you and your work. And, in addition to the RAW files...how much "editing process" do you think is a fair "trade" for their couple hours of "modelling"? 100 "finished" (fully edited) images? 200? 500?
Of course that decision of how you value your own work is your's alone. Just don't be a "sap"...because many (usually new) models WILL take advantage of as MUCH as they can "wring out of you". The more experienced models have more respect, and don't play that game. They don't need to. Neither do you.
Just sayin. (and the opinion implied above is only my own)
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