So for the last year I've done a LOT of outdoor shooting for rodeos & events like this. Well the client has otherwise been VERY happe with the 30k+ pictures over the 4 day weekends, but I am not happy with them entirely.
I shoot with a Cannon Rebel XSi, and a 55-250 lense for the most part (a mix of filters for UV & whatnots) but as night falls I have a harder and harder time getting it to focus, the flash does NOTHING at that point, and my lense doesn't cover the entire arena like I'd like it to.
As the photographer, generally I'm standing at vantage points where I'm PRETTY close to the action, so is there any flashes I can use to help with lighting a little?
And for lenses, I'm looking for something with a little more length HOPEFULLY without spending out the beegees?
L U C I M A
Posts: 933
Los Angeles, California, US
Sounds like you've got a few issues on your hands!
I shoot with a Cannon Rebel XSi, and a 55-250 lense for the most part (a mix of filters for UV & whatnots) but as night falls I have a harder and harder time getting it to focus,
Usually I don't like to preach "gear". But in your case you have a problem that might be resolved with better gear. Sports/action cameras tend to have better autofocus in lower light. My Nikon D3 for example is able to acquire focus in very low light. The Canon 5DMII is notorious for focus hunting if there is inadequate light. You might benefit from a sports/action-specific camera.
the flash does NOTHING at that point, and my lense doesn't cover the entire arena like I'd like it to.
Unless you are SUPER close to the action, I'm guessing you're still some 30+feet away in which case, whatever onboard flash you have is pretty much useless. The reality is that whatever flash you might acquire is pretty much useless at those distances. And given that your subjects are moving quickly all around the arena, you can't set them for any specific place. It's not like basketball where the action happens around the basket. I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest that lighting isn't going to be the answer. Higher ISO and faster lenses are going to be the ticket. Unless you find a 100,000WS light with a broad enough throw that encompasses the entire arena.
And for lenses, I'm looking for something with a little more length HOPEFULLY without spending out the beegees?
Can't help you there. Unless you go cheap and use a teleconverter like a 2x. And the problem with teleconverters is that they "eat" light. So if you were working on a f/4 lens, on a 2x teleconverter you're looking at losing 2 stops of light so it's now a f/8 lens which is going to make for even less ability to shoot at lower light settings!
MCastlePhotography wrote: So for the last year I've done a LOT of outdoor shooting for rodeos & events like this. Well the client has otherwise been VERY happe with the 30k+ pictures over the 4 day weekends, but I am not happy with them entirely.
I shoot with a Cannon Rebel XSi, and a 55-250 lense for the most part (a mix of filters for UV & whatnots) but as night falls I have a harder and harder time getting it to focus, the flash does NOTHING at that point, and my lense doesn't cover the entire arena like I'd like it to.
As the photographer, generally I'm standing at vantage points where I'm PRETTY close to the action, so is there any flashes I can use to help with lighting a little?
And for lenses, I'm looking for something with a little more length HOPEFULLY without spending out the beegees?
I'm thinking the short answer is no. You could try switching to manual focus. Getting a TTL capable flash. Youngunos are cheap and come recommended. The af assist light isn't going to help much. As for faster and longer, you could get a prime/fixed lens which might not break the bank. Check out the 300f4? Longer but generally the same speed as your current lens are the 100-400 and 70-300. Long=money, fast=money, long and fast=lots of money
Bigger would be 5d3 or 1d with a pro sports lens. But that shits scary pricy.
And in regards to flashes. Even with being "close to the action" you're what... 25-150 feet away depending on where the horse/bull is in the arena? That will equate to shooting flashes at full power to have a marginal (if at all) effect on exposure. Then factor in 7,500 shots per day, I wouldn't do that without balancing between 2-3 flashes, to avoid overheating, damage, etc, and with battery packs, that gets $2,500 easily.
As night falls though - these camera bodies above have a MUCH better AF system (the 40D can be had for $100ish after selling the XSi) 7D has fantastic focus, 70-200 4L has great focus, and the 2.8 even better still.
I've shot a few rodeo events for a sports wire and Lucima is absolutely correct. You need better gear for shooting at night. I regularly get up to the ISO 6400 range during an indoor rodeo. I have seen the rodeo tour photographer set up 4 to 6 strobes up on first deck of the stands and remotely trigger them. It probably adds just enough light to drop down to ISO 1600 or so.
Better body and lenses are required for shooting action in low light. Look for f/2.8 or f/4 lenses and a body with higher sensitivity. My trusty old 80-200 f/2.8 nikkor and my 200-400vr f/4 nikkor haven't failed me on the d700 or D3s.
Images by MR
Posts: 6,031
Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
MCastlePhotography wrote: As the photographer, generally I'm standing at vantage points where I'm PRETTY close to the action, so is there any flashes I can use to help with lighting a little?
I'd be kind of worried what you'd be shooting with flash at a rodeo.
Something I just thought of... Find the best light and use it. Sometimes it means line up with the lights overhead so you maximize the available light. I'll also find myself seeking the side of the park/arena/stadium that has the parking lot or other light sources behind me to give a little extra illumination-- it can make a slight difference.
This is really a case where new equipment can make a HUGE difference. First off a faster lens - I recommend a 70-200 f/2.8. Canon makes a great one but there are non-Canon ones that are cheaper. Faster lenses allow in more light making focus faster and more accurate. That doesn't help with more reach. You could also pick up a 75-300 fairly inexpensively or buy the 70-200 and also buy a 1.4x teleconverter.
You should also consider upgrading your camera. You can pick up a 5D Mark II used for about $1,600 maybe less. Another option would be a 50D for maybe $500 or less.
Then use the center point only for focus since it's more accurate.
You can try using a flash but it may be a problem with horses and it may not give you images that you're happy with.
My recommended solution would be WAY more expensive with a 5D Mark III body and all new lenses.
Another, non-exposure-related concern would be dust.
Some years ago, I was part of a video crew recording a rodeo in northern Wisconsin. There was a ton of dust kicked up by the action, and the most nerve-rattling bit of that was when we got back to the van at the end of it all, and there was almost 1/4" of dust caked on the windshield.
two ways to attack this problem.
1) 2.8 glass just has an easier time focusing in low light because it lets more light in to the focus system. doesnt matter if you are shooting at f4. the focus is critical.
2) even at 100ft the focus assist beam on compatible speedlights will lock in focus in lighting you can barely see it. set the flash to for just AF assist.
3) ok I know I said 2 but if you have to, rent a body that works better at higher ISO. If you do more night events than just the occasional rodeo and you are getting paid for them, replace rent with "buy".
At night, pretty much stick to lenses that are a straight f/2.8 or faster or focus will be difficult.
As others have said, remote strobes such as on an upper deck with radio slave triggers, ideally something with a fast flash duration, so it will freeze the subject quite well.
Normally I'd share Ken's concern of spooking an animal, but a remotely located flash has much less chance of that than being close and using an on-camera mounted flash.
I'm thinking of this like the professional shooters do for basketball, you have some strobes up high and trigger them by radio.... you can only shoot every couple of seconds due to recycle, but the quality of the images will be much higher.
DougBPhoto wrote: At night, pretty much stick to lenses that are a straight f/2.8 or faster or focus will be difficult.
As others have said, remote strobes such as on an upper deck with radio slave triggers, ideally something with a fast flash duration, so it will freeze the subject quite well.
Normally I'd share Ken's concern of spooking an animal, but a remotely located flash has much less chance of that than being close and using an on-camera mounted flash.
I'm thinking of this like the professional shooters do for basketball, you have some strobes up high and trigger them by radio.... you can only shoot every couple of seconds due to recycle, but the quality of the images will be much higher.
that might work for indoor rodeos but outdoors might lack convenient accessible places to leave the strobes. and you might end up needing several thousand w/s at each place to have the required reach. that might spook the crowd.
as for spooking the animals, rather than speculate I think the rodeos must have this figured out and already have rules about it. best to ask them.
You could buy several (more than 4) Alien Bees 800 and place them on the light pole around the arena and have them all on wireless receivers so you will have flashes in all directions.
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