Forums > Model Colloquy > Are models with a womanly figure unheard of ?

Model

Hannahrew

Posts: 6

Sheffield, England, United Kingdom

Hi guys
So I'm 19 and have been in the fashion industry for a good 3 years and I'm signed to a local agency but looking to widen my range of work throughout the uk.
Here's my issue;

At 16 I was scouted by a number of top agencies including elite, select, boss and storm. I chose to stick with elite and they kept me on for around a year working with me. Then I was told to make my measurements smaller ( lose weight basically).
They wanted my waist down to 90cm at least, from 101cm and my waist down to 60cm from 66cm.
As you can imagine as a 16 year old girl who's shape was still changing it massively knocked my confidence and I thought about  it for a while, but I just decided to stay healthy and happy and keep a womanly figure.
Yes I understand it's a very hard industry and I expected no less but if I was to go any smaller I would simply look ill with no figure at all.
I workout and take care of what I eat and my body. I simply want an agency that will accept a healthy girl that yes has a bum, which is somewhat unheard of it seems.

So yeah that's the situation, I'm putting it out there to see if you guys know of any successful agencies that have  models with a normal slim shape.
My measurements are now;

5'11
Waist ; 63
Hips; 99
Dress size; 8/10

I'm just sick to death of being told to be smaller, when I am happy as I am !

Thanks for taking to time to read and appreciate any help or advice I get smile

Jul 02 14 05:56 am Link

Photographer

Ken Warren Photography

Posts: 933

GLENMOORE, Pennsylvania, US

Unfortunately that seems to be the way the fashion industry is; even plus size models are apparently being asked to slim down. Personally, I think you look fine, based on your portfolio here, but I don't shoot fashion or commercial work.

Jul 02 14 06:09 am Link

Photographer

Marin Photo NYC

Posts: 7348

New York, New York, US

I understand your dilemma but that's just the way it is. A different agency may like you as you are and sign you but whose to say months from that day that they won't change their mind?

Keep your bum intact and freelance, find another agency, plus size agencies are a bit more flexible and actually want curves.  It depends on the market when it comes to plus size. Some markets are different. Here in NY plus size starts around size 10. Try different agencies.

Keep your chin up! Stay happy and healthy.

Jul 02 14 06:30 am Link

Photographer

Leonard Gee Photography

Posts: 18096

Sacramento, California, US

99cm or 39 in hips is a no-no for a fashion model. at 5' 11" they want you at around 9 stones or 125 lb. seldom will a designer make clothes to fit you. the agency needs models at the standard sample size.

they don't care what you think is "womanly". they need you to fit the clothes to be marketable. unless you are so famous, you can use just your first name, they don't care what you think.

Jul 02 14 06:40 am Link

Photographer

Michael Lohr

Posts: 510

Los Angeles, California, US

My Partner in the studio owns a very successful agency in LA.
They only do plus size.

http://naturalmodelsla.com/

Jul 02 14 06:45 am Link

Model

Hannahrew

Posts: 6

Sheffield, England, United Kingdom

Leonard Gee Photography wrote:
99cm or 39 in hips is a no-no for a fashion model. at 5' 11" they want you at around 9 stones or 125 lb. seldom will a designer make clothes to fit you. the agency needs models at the standard sample size.

they don't care what you think is "womanly". they need you to fit the clothes to be marketable. unless you are so famous, you can use just your first name, they don't care what you think.

I do know this, I have done my research and I do know that catwalk models are only a clothes hanger for them!
Simply trying to find a different agency that are willing

Jul 02 14 06:49 am Link

Model

Jasmine Tooley

Posts: 60

London, England, United Kingdom

Hi Hannah,

Hughes Models have recently opened their books up to accepting UK Sizes 8/ 10 (US Sizes 4/ 6)
You're a truly stunning lady.  Great height, smooth jawline etc. and if you're ever down in London, (possibly casting for Hughes!) let's grab a cuppa.

Always interested in networking.

My very best of success to you,

Jasmine Tooley xx

Jul 02 14 06:51 am Link

Photographer

Giuseppe Luzio

Posts: 5834

New York, New York, US

Hannahrew wrote:
Hi guys
So I'm 19 and have been in the fashion industry for a good 3 years and I'm signed to a local agency but looking to widen my range of work throughout the uk.
Here's my issue;

At 16 I was scouted by a number of top agencies including elite, select, boss and storm. I chose to stick with elite and they kept me on for around a year working with me. Then I was told to make my measurements smaller ( lose weight basically).
They wanted my waist down to 90cm at least, from 101cm and my waist down to 60cm from 66cm.
As you can imagine as a 16 year old girl who's shape was still changing it massively knocked my confidence and I thought about  it for a while, but I just decided to stay healthy and happy and keep a womanly figure.
Yes I understand it's a very hard industry and I expected no less but if I was to go any smaller I would simply look ill with no figure at all.
I workout and take care of what I eat and my body. I simply want an agency that will accept a healthy girl that yes has a bum, which is somewhat unheard of it seems.

So yeah that's the situation, I'm putting it out there to see if you guys know of any successful agencies that have  models with a normal slim shape.
My measurements are now;

5'11
Waist ; 63
Hips; 99
Dress size; 8/10

I'm just sick to death of being told to be smaller, when I am happy as I am !

Thanks for taking to time to read and appreciate any help or advice I get smile

No one is forcing you to do anything you don't want to. Do what makes you happy. Maybe somethings just ain't your thing.

Jul 02 14 06:53 am Link

Model

Hannahrew

Posts: 6

Sheffield, England, United Kingdom

Tooley St wrote:
Hi Hannah,

Hughes Models have recently opened their books up to accepting UK Sizes 8/ 10 (US Sizes 4/ 6)
You're a truly stunning lady.  Great height, smooth jawline etc. and if you're ever down in London, (possibly casting for Hughes!) let's grab a cuppa.

Always interested in networking.

My very best of success to you,

Jasmine Tooley xx

Hi jasmine thankyou for that I'll definitely check them out, definitely yes!

Kind regards xx

Jul 02 14 06:57 am Link

Model

MartaBrixton

Posts: 1022

London, England, United Kingdom

I think your figure is not really considered as curvy or ''womanly'' and you don't really look different than fashion models.
I don't see a point of complaining, you either do what they want or leave. You have a great face and it's up to you if you follow their rules and be successful or feel sorry for yourself because you have a few cms more.
You are not far from their standards.
I know what you mean because as a really curvy woman there is no place for me but in your situation your ''problem'' is not bad...

Jul 02 14 04:11 pm Link

Model

J Jessica

Posts: 2431

Coconut Creek, Florida, US

What is 'womanly figure'?
o__O

Jul 02 14 04:34 pm Link

Artist/Painter

Augustine

Posts: 1153

Los Angeles, California, US

J Jessica wrote:
What is 'womanly figure'?
o__O

77 cents on the dollar, unfortunately. sad

http://www.pay-equity.org/info-time.html

big_smile

Jul 02 14 05:06 pm Link

Model

Laura UnBound

Posts: 28745

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Hannahrew wrote:
I do know this, I have done my research and I do know that catwalk models are only a clothes hanger for them!
Simply trying to find a different agency that are willing

So heres the thing. Agency that wants you to be smaller books gigs for models doing print work. The stylist pulls the same clothes that are used on the catwalk for the shoot. The models that agency sends have to fit those clothes, regardless of if that models ever worked a catwalk. The stylist probably has no idea which model the agency is sending, they dont have to know, they're all the same size.

If you sign with an agency who is okay with your current measurements, what do you think you're going to wear when they book you for gigs?


If agencies start accepting odd sized people, designers have to start making clothes for odd sized people, the stylist has to know that you're odd sized so that they pull the right clothes, etc etc. Eventually whats the point in standard sizes if you're going to go through the trouble of accommodating everything to an odd sized person?


You might find an agency that makes exceptions by an inch or two, but your hips are way over, and its probably bone, not fat, so you can't do much to change it even if you tried.



Side note: Im a woman too, my figure is just as womanly as yours or someone the size of the both of us put together. You might want to consider your wording.

Jul 02 14 05:06 pm Link

Model

J Jessica

Posts: 2431

Coconut Creek, Florida, US

3068875 wrote:

77 cents on the dollar, unfortunately. sad

http://www.pay-equity.org/info-time.html

big_smile

Ah, I see. Quite sad.

Jul 02 14 05:52 pm Link

Model

Hannahrew

Posts: 6

Sheffield, England, United Kingdom

MartaBrixton wrote:
I think your figure is not really considered as curvy or ''womanly'' and you don't really look different than fashion models.
I don't see a point of complaining, you either do what they want or leave. You have a great face and it's up to you if you follow their rules and be successful or feel sorry for yourself because you have a few cms more.
You are not far from their standards.
I know what you mean because as a really curvy woman there is no place for me but in your situation your ''problem'' is not bad...

I never said I was curvy and I am not complaining I'm putting my point out there simply.
Neither am I feeling sorry for myself.
You don't know me personally to know if I have a womanly figure or if my 'problem' I have scratched the surface of what has been said / happened, you don't have to be plus size to have a womanly figuire! End of.

Jul 02 14 11:03 pm Link

Photographer

David Stone Imaging

Posts: 1032

Seattle, Washington, US

3068875 wrote:
77 cents on the dollar, unfortunately. sad

http://www.pay-equity.org/info-time.html

big_smile

J Jessica wrote:
Ah, I see. Quite sad.

I realize this is off-topic...but since it was brought up, there are a lot of studies that refute this disparity.  For instance, for two decades now there have been more women in business school at college than men.  There are also more college educated women in the workforce now than men.  This is from US Govt studies.  The organization refererenced here has an agenda...and it is to get donations flowing to keep the top folks in it around with a healthy income.

Jul 02 14 11:24 pm Link

Photographer

Peter House

Posts: 888

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Laura UnBound wrote:
So heres the thing. Agency that wants you to be smaller books gigs for models doing print work. The stylist pulls the same clothes that are used on the catwalk for the shoot. The models that agency sends have to fit those clothes, regardless of if that models ever worked a catwalk. The stylist probably has no idea which model the agency is sending, they dont have to know, they're all the same size.

If you sign with an agency who is okay with your current measurements, what do you think you're going to wear when they book you for gigs?


If agencies start accepting odd sized people, designers have to start making clothes for odd sized people, the stylist has to know that you're odd sized so that they pull the right clothes, etc etc. Eventually whats the point in standard sizes if you're going to go through the trouble of accommodating everything to an odd sized person?


You might find an agency that makes exceptions by an inch or two, but your hips are way over, and its probably bone, not fat, so you can't do much to change it even if you tried.



Side note: Im a woman too, my figure is just as womanly as yours or someone the size of the both of us put together. You might want to consider your wording.

This is correct. It's a bit like me saying I want to play in the NBA but could they lower the basket because I'd like to dunk at my height. There is one standard for everyone, and as much as I may *dream* of being in the NBA, genetically I just wasn't made for it. Nothing however stops you from pursuing a successful career as a freelance model. Many here do it quite well. smile

Jul 02 14 11:29 pm Link

Photographer

Peter House

Posts: 888

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Ugh double post. Sorry.

Jul 02 14 11:29 pm Link

Photographer

David Stone Imaging

Posts: 1032

Seattle, Washington, US

The way I look at it...some people win the genetic lottery...and some don't.  (Since there  is more than one lottery...a person needs to look around so see what lottery they might have won.)

A lot of people that win the genetic lottery intially...end up losing later.  Such as a young girl that meets specs initially...but grows out of them.  And most women will tell you that their body wants a life of its own after 30 anyway.  But athletes are the best example of the genetic lottery....especially with American football.  They do great in college...but most have short pro careers for one reason or another that often relates back to genetics...they get slower, gain too much weight, etc.

And relating one story...I coached my son's 6th grade select basketball team.  I asked parents for a volunteer and got one.  After practice one day "skip" sank 27 3-pointers in a row (before saying time to go home)...off the backboard yet...which is harder than a net shot.  I found out he set all kinds of college records...but was 1 inch too short to play in the pros.  One inch!!! They didn't care about anything but body stats they could read on paper.

Jul 02 14 11:46 pm Link

Model

dead and goneeeeeeeeee

Posts: 161

Aniak, Alaska, US

Laura UnBound wrote:

So heres the thing. Agency that wants you to be smaller books gigs for models doing print work. The stylist pulls the same clothes that are used on the catwalk for the shoot. The models that agency sends have to fit those clothes, regardless of if that models ever worked a catwalk. The stylist probably has no idea which model the agency is sending, they dont have to know, they're all the same size.

If you sign with an agency who is okay with your current measurements, what do you think you're going to wear when they book you for gigs?


If agencies start accepting odd sized people, designers have to start making clothes for odd sized people, the stylist has to know that you're odd sized so that they pull the right clothes, etc etc. Eventually whats the point in standard sizes if you're going to go through the trouble of accommodating everything to an odd sized person?


You might find an agency that makes exceptions by an inch or two, but your hips are way over, and its probably bone, not fat, so you can't do much to change it even if you tried.



Side note: Im a woman too, my figure is just as womanly as yours or someone the size of the both of us put together. You might want to consider your wording.

+1. +100 on that side note.

Jul 04 14 03:34 pm Link

Photographer

Good Egg Productions

Posts: 16713

Orlando, Florida, US

The unfortunate truth is that the industry is the way it is.  No one.... NO ONE, is going to change that.  Since I've been paying attention (at least 20 years) people have been trying to change the rules or be "the one" who's going to be the exception and change everything.

It hasn't happened.  And it won't.

If the agency wants you to lose weight or inches to sell you, it's because they can't sell you otherwise.  They don't care about you.  They care about getting the percentage for booking you to campaigns or shows, and they can't do that if the producers and designers don't want your measurements.

So you have two choices.  You can do what you can to do as your agency wants, or you can look elsewhere for work.  There's PLENTY of modeling work for a 5'11" girl that's not walking runways.  Try commercial.  Try acting.  Try bikini or lingerie with that "womanly" figure of yours.  Go where the designers or producers WANT what you are happy with.

Jul 04 14 04:05 pm Link

Model

MartaBrixton

Posts: 1022

London, England, United Kingdom

Hannahrew wrote:
I never said I was curvy and I am not complaining I'm putting my point out there simply.
Neither am I feeling sorry for myself.
You don't know me personally to know if I have a womanly figure or if my 'problem' I have scratched the surface of what has been said / happened, you don't have to be plus size to have a womanly figuire! End of.

So what do you mean by saying ''womanly figure''??
And why do I need to know you personally to look at your figure?
You have enough pictures in your portfolio, you are just skinny darling, not sure what is your understanding of ''womanly'' figure.
I personally don't like this wording and all the ''real women have curves'' vybes but in general ''womanly'' would be seen as a curvy woman with big breasts, hips and/ or bum because these parts normally get bigger when you become a woman. Kids, men and teenagers don't have breasts or wide hips, these features are characteristic to women ONLY that's why we would say someone has womanly figure.

Jul 07 14 04:40 am Link

Model

RebeccaW

Posts: 231

Jacksonville, Florida, US

Hannahrew wrote:

Hi jasmine thankyou for that I'll definitely check them out, definitely yes!

Kind regards xx

^^This. you're lovely. Quite lovely,actually.  Industry standard plus size starts at 6 or 8 (that's UK 8/10 , I believe). Hughes is a great agency! I've met with them last time I was in London. There are also others, so you have options. Just do you research! Maybe this will help. Good Luck!

http://www.newmodels.com/Plus.html

Jul 16 14 03:32 pm Link

Model

Victoria Ellis

Posts: 129

San Diego, California, US

You're fine as is but it never hurts to work on one's diet or exercise regime. I thought I couldn't really be naturally thinner than 120 lbs but I went vegan and stopped drinking alcohol and now I'm under 110 lbs and very healthy. Certain foods like dairy and flour are very fattening.

Jul 18 14 09:48 am Link

Photographer

Nerdscarf

Posts: 172

Baltimore, Maryland, US

Define "womanly figure"...

Jul 18 14 09:57 am Link

Model

halcyondays

Posts: 20

Normal, Illinois, US

As many have said before it's really a matter of the sizes the clothing is made at. If you have trouble fitting into the clothes sent over then they won't want you to work. You're gorgeous - you wouldn't have been signed to an agency in the first place if you weren't - and measurements don't define that. Models need certain measurements to fit into sample sizes to make the process faster and easier.

Also, as someone who happens to fit those standards for now, I am every bit as "womanly" as someone who does not...that comes from within, not from the size of my hips or breasts.

Jul 18 14 10:13 am Link

Photographer

GianCarlo Images

Posts: 2427

Brooklyn, New York, US

As I see it modeling for fashion is truly genetic. It is not a talent or something one can study, develop or learn, it is simply genetic.

There are many perfectly gorgeous/handsome people who do not possess all the characteristics the fashion people desire in a model. You need the looks, the height, and the slim, slim figure. Some people can eat whatever they want and still naturally maintain the figure and some can not.

Sensible eating is important for every one, but for someone to risk their well being for modeling is just unwise.

You're beautiful. Keep fit and stay healthy. Take on the work that comes along but don't rely on modeling, instead have a more reliable long term career to earn a living.

Jul 18 14 10:40 am Link

Model

Vi Synster

Posts: 301

Jesup, Georgia, US

Leonard Gee Photography wrote:
99cm or 39 in hips is a no-no for a fashion model. at 5' 11" they want you at around 9 stones or 125 lb. seldom will a designer make clothes to fit you. the agency needs models at the standard sample size.

they don't care what you think is "womanly". they need you to fit the clothes to be marketable. unless you are so famous, you can use just your first name, they don't care what you think.

125 lbs at 5 ft 11 in will not look healthy. It's true that everyone's biology is different, but even for naturally slender people, that's a little too thin.

The truth of the matter: designers want to use less fabric so it's less money for them, that's why they prefer their models thin.

I'm 5 ft 9 in and on average weigh between 120-135 lbs and my natural built is slender.

Jul 19 14 08:24 pm Link

Photographer

Michael Spring

Posts: 315

London, England, United Kingdom

I wouldn't look at it in a negative way! Whats the point in being signed with a agency that doesn't have the clientele that would be interested in your look? I like your style of work but I know nothing about agencies. How much work did they find you in that first year? If there was only a couple of contracts signed it might be best to look elsewhere and having the agency highlight that your look isn't what they want might just be a good thing. Stay positive and work on building a client base for the future... my 2 cents. :-)

Jul 20 14 07:17 am Link

Photographer

Herman Surkis

Posts: 10856

Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

To the OP.

You used a few phrases that triggered a few people.
That derailed your question.

To my understanding, you simply want to know of any reputable, good agencies that will work with someone of your stats. You were NOT asking for advice about why the rigid standard, nor were you asking advice about changing or not changing your stats. Although some of the unasked for advice was pretty decent.

I would just apologize for using the phrases that ticked off some people, and simply ask again. And of course most responses coming from the US and elsewhere will be of little use. However, it always surprises me how often someone from thousands of miles away knows a hell of a lot about my neck of the woods.

Good luck getting the references you are looking for.

Jul 20 14 07:48 am Link

Model

Kahula

Posts: 65

Tucson, Arizona, US

J Jessica wrote:
What is 'womanly figure'?
o__O

+1

Jul 20 14 07:56 am Link

Photographer

The Perfect Image

Posts: 361

Los Angeles, California, US

Hannahrew wrote:
If you were in Los Angeles you would find plenty of work no matter what your size.

Hi guys
So I'm 19 and have been in the fashion industry for a good 3 years and I'm signed to a local agency but looking to widen my range of work throughout the uk.
Here's my issue;

At 16 I was scouted by a number of top agencies including elite, select, boss and storm. I chose to stick with elite and they kept me on for around a year working with me. Then I was told to make my measurements smaller ( lose weight basically).
They wanted my waist down to 90cm at least, from 101cm and my waist down to 60cm from 66cm.
As you can imagine as a 16 year old girl who's shape was still changing it massively knocked my confidence and I thought about  it for a while, but I just decided to stay healthy and happy and keep a womanly figure.
Yes I understand it's a very hard industry and I expected no less but if I was to go any smaller I would simply look ill with no figure at all.
I workout and take care of what I eat and my body. I simply want an agency that will accept a healthy girl that yes has a bum, which is somewhat unheard of it seems.

So yeah that's the situation, I'm putting it out there to see if you guys know of any successful agencies that have  models with a normal slim shape.
My measurements are now;

5'11
Waist ; 63
Hips; 99
Dress size; 8/10

I'm just sick to death of being told to be smaller, when I am happy as I am !

Thanks for taking to time to read and appreciate any help or advice I get smile

Jul 20 14 07:58 am Link

Model

Magda Kulpinska

Posts: 688

Paris, Île-de-France, France

I think the essential things have already been said. Nothing is going to change the standards of fashion. You have the choice of adjusting, quitting or trying to find an alternative industry which does exist.

I believe that with 99cm hips you qualify for plus size (just writing this makes me feel weird because how can 99cm hips be considered plus size, seriously...)

I think there is an agency called Milk in the UK that manages girls with this type of measurements. I knew a girl from there, she was STUNNING and by no means fat!!

Jul 22 14 03:17 am Link

Clothing Designer

GRMACK

Posts: 5436

Bakersfield, California, US

Cree Synster wrote:
....

The truth of the matter: designers want to use less fabric so it's less money for them, that's why they prefer their models thin.

I'll make a correction to the above in that it is not the amount of fabric that plays into it - that may be only 10% of the matter.  Besides, tall models take more fabric than someone 5' 1" or whatever.

The issue becomes the "curves" of the woman and the design process that includes darts and the placement of them to keep fabric from bunching and puckering.  Some darts need to be lengthened, narrowed, or moved for a different person.  It can be a nightmare and why most any pattern companies sewing pattern needs to be altered for a specific person.  If a model has asymmetrical boobs, for example, and no correction to their bra cup, then the clothing's drape will be disturbed and bind or twist someplace.

If a model is "built like a plank," then they may not even need a dart (Yay!) in the design.  Makes it much easier than trying to design something for Ms. Rolls and all her womanly curves.  It would be like a carpenter using plywood to cut up and glue together for a car cover and make it snug.  If the car is a block, it's easy.  Toss in some curves and it's a lot harder for him to do and he'll waste more plywood in the process trying to wrap and cut it for a curved hood.

Jul 22 14 06:07 am Link

Photographer

Commercial Fashion LA

Posts: 12

Los Angeles, California, US

Women who are size 00-4 also have "womanly" figures, you know.

If you don't want to adhere to industry standards... then don't try to be with a fashion model agency.

You could try commercial acting, instead.

Jul 22 14 06:46 pm Link

Model

Astrid Kallsen

Posts: 13

Columbia, South Carolina, US

It sounds like you're in the wrong industry.  Modeling doesn't really seem to be about loving or expressing your body but making the most profitable picture, and our world wants skinny models in fashion.  Because I'm in school I've had trouble shedding any weight, so I've had to remain in lingerie and nude art modeling.  That's really the only outlet for bodies like ours.

Jan 04 15 12:00 pm Link

Model

Astrid Kallsen

Posts: 13

Columbia, South Carolina, US

It sounds like you're in the wrong industry.  Modeling doesn't really seem to be about loving or expressing your body but making the most profitable picture, and our world wants skinny models in fashion.  Because I'm in school I've had trouble shedding any weight, so I've had to remain in lingerie and nude art modeling.  That's really the only outlet for bodies like ours.

Jan 04 15 12:00 pm Link

Model

Astrid Kallsen

Posts: 13

Columbia, South Carolina, US

It sounds like you're in the wrong industry.  Modeling doesn't really seem to be about loving or expressing your body but making the most profitable picture, and our world wants skinny models in fashion.  Because I'm in school I've had trouble shedding any weight, so I've had to remain in lingerie and nude art modeling.  That's really the only outlet for bodies like ours.

Jan 04 15 12:00 pm Link

Photographer

ontherocks

Posts: 23575

Salem, Oregon, US

regarding getting slimmer, if it can't be done through good diet and exercise and you have to resort to drugs (including nicotine) or become malnourished that seems like a bad thing. but i read about an NFL player who said that getting to play in the NFL was worth the risk that he'd die early as a result and/or become a semi-cripple after his playing days. i guess it depends on how bad you want it. but remember that your brain may not be fully formed until you are 25. i'd say be kind to yourself so you can live long and prosper.

they seem to cut celebrities some slack so maybe that's the best option. get famous and have a reality tv show and you don't  have to be size 0.

Jan 04 15 12:12 pm Link

Photographer

Light and Lens Studio

Posts: 3450

Sisters, Oregon, US

I wanted to be a jet jockey and fly fighters.  But, they don't take people without perfect vision (no glasses or contacts allowed).  So, I had to choose another career path.  It was a great ride.

You can't change the wind, but you can adjust yours sails.

Jan 04 15 12:23 pm Link