Forums > General Industry > I mourn the death of Printed Fashion Magazines

Photographer

Garry k

Posts: 28762

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

( and magazines in general )

Numero , French and Vogue Paris were my favorites ....and I was a collector

As well as any magazines that my model friend appeared in or on the cover ( but sadly i could not keep up with her )

I know we are well into a new internet  era and printed magazines are dying out

and we now have 1000s of images readily available to us - where as we had a fraction of that before

and now its much more than just magazines - its the vastness of social media

MM and Facebook are all I can really handle though

I just can't get into things like IG ( though i have tried )

Anybody else feel the same way ?

Jul 15 17 11:32 pm Link

Photographer

Love the Arts

Posts: 999

Malibu, California, US

Garry k wrote:
( and magazines in general )

Numero , French and Vogue Paris were my favorites ....and I was a collector

As well as any magazines that my model friend appeared in or on the cover ( but sadly i could not keep up with her )

I know we are well into a new electronic era and printed magazines are dying out

and we now have 1000s of images readily available to us - where as we had a fraction of that before

and now its much more than just magazines - its the vastness of social media

MM and Facebook are all I can really handle though

I just can't get into things like IG ( though i have tried )

Anybody else feel the same way ?

"and I was a collector. "  That is one of the new directions for print.

Print is dying the way we knew it in the past. Many paper periodicals are not sustainable.  But print is reemerging as collectables.  The margins are smaller and for those who love to create printed material and collect printed material the exchange is smaller and more segmented.

I indie publish and most small press publishers do it for the love of print. With the hope of recovering production cost, making a little profit and producing cool work for print lovers. I have seen an uptick of Zines and small press offerings since 2011. The bigger the support, the more it will grow. Some collectables are quite pricey though, so money can be made in print.

I think fashion magazines thrive in new media more so than print nowadays. Readers still value the content.

Jul 16 17 12:07 am Link

Photographer

Derek Ridgers

Posts: 1528

London, England, United Kingdom

The famous Mark Twain quote comes to mind.

Reports of my death have been greatly exaggerated.

When I was a teenager growing up in London in the ‘60s there were about half a dozen women’s fashion magazines.  Double that, if you include the US ones that were mostly impossible to get hold of anyway.

I could probably still name most of them.

Nowadays there seem like hundreds.  And some inches thick with no advertising at all.

Most/many with an incredible quality of photography, hair and make up.

Sometimes the print and paper quality is astonishing too.

If you're a photographer and you want to get your work into print, now is most probably the best time ever.

If you want to sustain a well paid career, that might be the difficult part.

Jul 16 17 12:38 am Link

Photographer

Garry k

Posts: 28762

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

Derek Ridgers wrote:
The famous Mark Twain quote comes to mind.

Reports of my death have been greatly exaggerated.

When I was a teenager growing up in London in the ‘60s there were about half a dozen women’s fashion magazines.  Double that, if you include the US ones that were mostly impossible to get hold of anyway.

I could probably still name most of them.

Nowadays there seem like hundreds.  And some inches thick with no advertising at all.

Most/many with an incredible quality of photography, hair and make up.

Sometimes the print and paper quality is astonishing too.

If you're a photographer and you want to get your work into print, now is most probably the best time ever.

If you want to sustain a well paid career, that might be the difficult part.

Regarding even finding these magazines ,,,,

Not that I am seeing in this part of the world

but of course I live in the hinterland ..far from the fashion capiitals of London , Paris , and Milan

its good to know that some of them are still in print  though

Jul 16 17 01:33 am Link

Photographer

Derek Ridgers

Posts: 1528

London, England, United Kingdom

Garry k wrote:
Regarding even finding these magazines ,,,,

Not that I am seeing in this part of the world

but of course I live in the hinterland ..far from the fashion capiitals of London , Paris , and Milan

its good to know that some of them are still in print  though

Nowhere near Vancouver admittedly, but this is just one small shop -

https://twitter.com/wardour_news?lang=en

There are about three times as many fashion, art and design magazines in Selfridges on London's Oxford Street.

Jul 16 17 03:38 am Link

Photographer

Garry k

Posts: 28762

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

Derek Ridgers wrote:

Nowhere near Vancouver admittedly, but this is just one small shop -

https://twitter.com/wardour_news?lang=en

There are about three times as many fashion, art and design magazines in Selfridges on London's Oxford Street.

It used to be a bit like that here

Jul 16 17 03:45 am Link

Photographer

WIP

Posts: 15916

Cheltenham, England, United Kingdom

Problem is is that everyone has a fashion mag inc. Rankin...Hunger, Dazed & Confused, Rank, Another Man, Another Magazine.... a flooded marked all competing where we are spolit for choice and that has cut into mag budgets.

Imagine 20 MM sites all chasing the same advertisers...an advertisers dream with the 20 MM all cutting costs of an advertising slot just to entice and get the clients business.
There's less money to share and the mags will cut their fee's for photographers/MUA and models... hence you don't see pages of editorials with big budgets by the likes of S. Meisel.

Also so many online mags wanting photographers/MUA/models work for free for a promise of being published online and in some cases in print.
The editors of these online mags are paid ! and many of these online mags are owned by larger publications....photographers/MUA/models have the carrot dangled infront of their noses ' be published' but we don't pay.

Jul 16 17 04:02 am Link

Photographer

Derek Ridgers

Posts: 1528

London, England, United Kingdom

WIP wrote:
Problem is is that everyone has a fashion mag inc. Rankin...Hunger, Dazed & Confused, Rank, Another Man, Another Magazine.... a flooded marked all competing where we are spolit for choice and that has cut into mag budgets.

Imagine 20 MM sites all chasing the same advertisers...an advertisers dream with the 20 MM all cutting costs of an advertising slot just to entice and get the clients business.
There's less money to share and the mags will cut their fee's for photographers/MUA and models... hence you don't see pages of editorials with big budgets by the likes of S. Meisel.

Also so many online mags wanting photographers/MUA/models work for free for a promise of being published online and in some cases in print.
The editors of these online mags are paid ! and many of these online mags are owned by larger publications....photographers/MUA/models have the carrot dangled infront of their noses ' be published' but we don't pay.

Did you see INFRINGE yet?  An inch thick, great photography and not one ad.

Jul 16 17 04:06 am Link

Photographer

Love the Arts

Posts: 999

Malibu, California, US

Garry k wrote:
It used to be a bit like that here

I remember an article about that newsstand.
http://www.onthegrid.city/london/soho/wardour-news/

I remember Borders Books having large varieties of fashion, photography and graphic design magazines on seemingly endless racks. I would browse for hours in the cafe and could never leave the store empty handed. Some aspects of retail I miss. Borders Books and Tower Records are stores I miss.

Virtual mag browsing  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAfTxoG5_F8

Jul 16 17 04:08 am Link

Photographer

Love the Arts

Posts: 999

Malibu, California, US

Derek Ridgers wrote:

Did you see INFRINGE yet?  An inch thick, great photography and not one ad.

Their website is nice.
https://www.infringe.com/

Jul 16 17 04:15 am Link

Photographer

WIP

Posts: 15916

Cheltenham, England, United Kingdom

INFRINGE £20.00 GB ... not cheap.

'Contributors'... they don't pay.


https://vimeo.com/216674214

You'll love this... and yes he's got fat ! Rankin.

Jul 16 17 04:55 am Link

Photographer

Love the Arts

Posts: 999

Malibu, California, US

Derek Ridgers wrote:

Did you see INFRINGE yet?  An inch thick, great photography and not one ad.

£20.00 GB ... not cheap.

'Contributors'... they don't pay.

That's the direction that print is going.  Boutique and collectible.... with a juicy price tag!

Jul 16 17 05:05 am Link

Photographer

Box Top Photography

Posts: 96

Hoboken, New Jersey, US

I agree, every now and then I will be surprised at how thick a Vogue or a Vanity Fair will be and on the other hand it saddens me how thin Time magazine is. Times are a changing, I am getting old, I have a FB account that I never use and I have no desire to pursue Instaham, I don't want to get caught up in how many followers I have.

Jul 16 17 06:13 am Link

Photographer

L o n d o n F o g

Posts: 7497

London, England, United Kingdom

Garry k wrote:
( and magazines in general )

Numero , French and Vogue Paris were my favorites ....and I was a collector

As well as any magazines that my model friend appeared in or on the cover ( but sadly i could not keep up with her )

I know we are well into a new internet  era and printed magazines are dying out

and we now have 1000s of images readily available to us - where as we had a fraction of that before

and now its much more than just magazines - its the vastness of social media

MM and Facebook are all I can really handle though

I just can't get into things like IG ( though i have tried )

Anybody else feel the same way ?

I'm with you Gary. I used to collect Vogue and Elle as a source of inspiration but when the quality started slipping with covers of obese models and that Kadarshian slag they lost all credibility (as a serious fashion mag).

However, they seem to have resurrected themselves in recent times with gorgeous covers like this...

http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/july-201 … lyn-murphy

Kind of harks back to the heyday!

Jul 16 17 07:23 am Link

Photographer

Garry k

Posts: 28762

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

Love the Arts wrote:

I remember an article about that newsstand.
http://www.onthegrid.city/london/soho/wardour-news/

I remember Borders Books having large varieties of fashion, photography and graphic design magazines on seemingly endless racks. I would browse for hours in the cafe and could never leave the store empty handed. Some aspects of retail I miss. Borders Books and Tower Records are stores I miss.

Virtual mag browsing  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAfTxoG5_F8

Tower Records was something else

Magazine , Books . CDs and Dvds....

Jul 16 17 10:06 am Link

Clothing Designer

GRMACK

Posts: 4514

Bakersfield, California, US

Local Barnes & Noble has a pretty good size rack of magazines still, but some only last a couple of editions or are seasonal.

Trying to make a buck out of them is tougher too.  Most editors do all the work now, even the photos.

Jul 16 17 10:34 am Link

Photographer

Herman Surkis

Posts: 10594

Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

I am in Victoria, which is a much smaller than where Garry is.
The local Chapters has racks and racks of fashion mags. If I were to buy 1 (one) of each it would make a sizable dent in my CC. The giants may now be a humble size, but to me it feels like there are far more. The choices are bewildering.

Seems to be the same with women's clothing stores. One mall needs 20-30 clothing stores, why?
OK, they are likely all owned by the same big 5, but still?

Jul 16 17 10:53 am Link

Photographer

WIP

Posts: 15916

Cheltenham, England, United Kingdom

The mags may still be on the racks but are getting thinner and less editorial.

Jul 16 17 11:10 am Link

Photographer

Garry k

Posts: 28762

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

Box Top Photography wrote:
I agree, every now and then I will be surprised at how thick a Vogue or a Vanity Fair will be and on the other hand it saddens me how thin Time magazine is. Times are a changing, I am getting old, I have a FB account that I never use and I have no desire to pursue Instaham, I don't want to get caught up in how many followers I have.

Thick though because 90 per cent of it was advertising -still though even that can be inspiring if the photography is good

Jul 16 17 01:30 pm Link

Photographer

WIP

Posts: 15916

Cheltenham, England, United Kingdom

Condé Nast saw the biggest circulation falls out of the major magazine publishers, reporting its titles down 8.9% year on year.
It's the digital audience that are taking over.

Jul 17 17 02:57 am Link

Photographer

Love the Arts

Posts: 999

Malibu, California, US

WIP wrote:
Condé Nast saw the biggest circulation falls out of the major magazine publishers, reporting its titles down 8.9% year on year.
It's the digital audience that are taking over.

Condé Nast  has deep pockets and their hands firmly in television and digital media. Their print divisions are changing but they are a multi national corporation. Their bottom line is solid and their brand name is strong which means licensing revenue in addition to their other products and services. How many people are aware of their foothold in education, did you know that Condé Nast  has a degree program?  https://www.condenastcollege.ac.uk/  There is big money in education and education publishing, if it's done right.

Jul 17 17 04:31 am Link

Photographer

Derek Ridgers

Posts: 1528

London, England, United Kingdom

WIP wrote:
The mags may still be on the racks but are getting thinner and less editorial.

I disagree.  I think magazines in general are getting thicker and are having less ads.

10 Magazine - who do have a photography budget - is nearly an inch thick with about 15% ads all at the front.

Plus.  And I think this is a big plus.  Some modern magazines are beautifully printed on the most incredible stock.

I noticed JOIA in Santiago had a cover that wasn't even spoilt by any type.  The name being blind embossed.

So much about magazines is better now than it was in the days when Vogue ruled the world. It comes to something when even it's own fashion director doesn't read it.

http://vestoj.com/will-i-get-a-ticket/

There are also so many more good fashion photographers around these days than when Avedon and Penn ruled the world.  Not many as great as those two admittedly but some very good ones all the same.

Jul 17 17 05:23 am Link

Photographer

Love the Arts

Posts: 999

Malibu, California, US

Garry k wrote:
Tower Records was something else

Magazine , Books . CDs and Dvds....

Crown Books too.  They had good discounts on books and magazines, a very big selection too!
They have a few stores around California but they're not what they used to be.

Jul 17 17 05:32 am Link

Photographer

Love the Arts

Posts: 999

Malibu, California, US

Derek Ridgers wrote:

I disagree.  I think magazines in general are getting thicker and are having less ads.

10 Magazine - who do have a photography budget - is nearly an inch thick with about 15% ads all at the front.

Plus.  And I think this is a big plus.  Some modern magazines are beautifully printed on the most incredible stock.

I noticed JOIA in Santiago had a cover that wasn't even spoilt by any type.  The name being blind embossed.

So much about magazines is better now than it was in the days when Vogue ruled the world. It comes to something when even it's own fashion director doesn't read it.

http://vestoj.com/will-i-get-a-ticket/

There are also so many more good fashion photographers around these days than when Avedon and Penn ruled the world.  Not many as great as those two admittedly but some very good ones all the same.

Will I get a ticket was a good read with my sandwich and morning tea. Thanks Derek!

Jul 17 17 06:37 am Link

Photographer

Garry k

Posts: 28762

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

Love the Arts wrote:

Crown Books too.  They had good discounts on books and magazines, a very big selection too!
They have a few stores around California but they're not what they used to be.

I like that Taschen Store in Beverly Hills

Jul 17 17 09:04 am Link

Photographer

Love the Arts

Posts: 999

Malibu, California, US

Garry k wrote:

I like that Taschen Store in Beverly Hills

Taschen has great coffee table books. The Hollywood and Bev. Hills stores are cool. The ones I miss are Rizzoli and Boarders in Santa Monica and Bodhi Tree bookstore on Melrose.  It was as much about the relaxed vibe and the people as well as the store and the selection.

Jul 17 17 09:37 am Link

Photographer

Brooklyn Bridge Images

Posts: 12225

Brooklyn, New York, US

I am no fan of fashion but yes its a great loss
I miss the joys of browsing Tower Records
The Foreign Mag section at Big Barnes and Noble
No digital media can replace these experiences

Jul 17 17 02:18 pm Link