Forums > Photography Talk > about White balance..

Photographer

FIFTYONE PHOTOGRAPHY

Posts: 6597

Uniontown, Pennsylvania, US

I've successfully used custom white balance on My indoor set  (Yay!)  the difference was notable and definitely an improvement.

custom wb

https://photos.modelmayhem.com/photos/180213/18/5a8399126da16_m.jpg


auto wb

https://photos.modelmayhem.com/photos/180205/16/5a78f22aed4a8_m.jpg


I have a couple of questions for those more knowledgeable.


* My next set will be outdoors and the concern is the ever changing ambient.

If I remain in a particular outdoor location for any period of time will this affect My white balance? 

This one may be a no brainer but if I move to a different spot in the same general location will this affect My white balance?


I shoot with off camera flash and will be setting white balance with the flash.  Is this wise outdoors or just go with auto white balance? 

Thanks in advance.

Jun 02 18 03:18 am Link

Jun 02 18 04:12 am Link

Photographer

FIFTYONE PHOTOGRAPHY

Posts: 6597

Uniontown, Pennsylvania, US

yikes

Got it, I think.

Thank You.

Jun 02 18 05:21 am Link

Photographer

ontherocks

Posts: 23575

Salem, Oregon, US

there is a setting Called "wb shift/bkt." on my canon 6d. I have that shoved way toward the blue. and now I'm basically happy shooting auto WB jpegs (with or without flash) and adjusting in post.

I think some people put gels on their flashes (like a warming gel) for certain situations.

I've tried various things like an expodisc and a color card that you shoot at the beginning of each scene but never warmed up to them.

I've had a few outdoor shots where the people turned out kind of orange (like Oompa Loompas)

Jun 02 18 09:02 am Link

Photographer

AVD AlphaDuctions

Posts: 10747

Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

ontherocks wrote:
I've tried various things like an expodisc and a color card that you shoot at the beginning of each scene but never "warmed"up to them.

terrible pun.  i love it!!! tongue

Jun 02 18 09:23 am Link

Photographer

Voy

Posts: 1594

Phoenix, Arizona, US

I use the X Rite Color Checker. It is the best way to color correct the scene.

Jun 02 18 11:36 am Link

Photographer

JordanK

Posts: 74

Las Vegas, Nevada, US

For my personal workflow I found custom WB a bit tedious, especially since I change location and lighting setup. If you shoot RAW (which I strongly suggest) I wouldn't worry too much as it's real easy to adjust in post.

Like posted above X-Rite ColorChecker tends to be the leading authority in that area, but if you're looking for something a bit more budget friendly you could get something like this: http://bhpho.to/2aZlsmX

To answer your question more directly though, I shoot outdoors with OFC a lot and just keep the WB set to auto.  Then correct in post if needed. I found it less of a hassle. And yes even if you stay in the same spot the lighting can change and in turn the WB can vary slightly.

Jun 02 18 12:20 pm Link

Photographer

Zack Zoll

Posts: 6895

Glens Falls, New York, US

Voy wrote:
I use the X Rite Color Checker. It is the best way to color correct the scene.

Agreed. Pass on the expodisc - it's not even true neutral. Sure it comes with a cute little test chart explaining how neutral it is, but somehow you always end up warm. Not very, but it's not worth the hassle of using a calibration tool if you're still going to have to dick with it - you can get those same results with a Pringles lid for $1.50. Plus, free Pringles!

I have a theory that, because plastics yellow with age, the expodisc is blue in order to extend its useful life; rather than being way off part of the time you own it, it's slightly off most of the time you own it. I'll bet that if you had one that was two years old, it would be bang on.

The passport is more work, as creating a custom correction curve is a giant pain until you've done it several dozen times. But it's the closest thing to an accurate, automatic system I'm aware of. It also allows for fixing color cast across the spectrum, while discs and grey cards only correct their own portion of the spectrum. Since most cameras don't have a consistent cast (Canon's red is more pronounced in midtones, for instance) , that can be a big deal if you're being obsessive.

Not that you need to be obsessive. But if you're spending the time and money to use a specialized calibration tool, it should be right, dammit.

Jun 02 18 05:33 pm Link

Photographer

FIFTYONE PHOTOGRAPHY

Posts: 6597

Uniontown, Pennsylvania, US

Thank You for the input everyone, I'm definitely leaning toward using the Cameras' AWB setting while outdoors.


I bought one of these: The Porta Brace WBC

The argument or conflicting information online is that the Grey card is, or should be used, for setting the exposure and a White card used for setting the White balance.


thoughts?

Jun 03 18 03:52 am Link

Photographer

Zave Smith Photography

Posts: 1696

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, US

With modern cameras, AWB almost always gets you very close.  But:

1. Shoot raw, often a scene will have a black or white that you can click on to balance the color.  Shooting raw gives you the most flexibility in post.
2. Color Checker is a pain but it is the most accurate pain out there.  I like that fact that it fits in my back pocket.
3. Color can be subjective, emotional and very additive to an artists intent.  Use it. I like to start with my post work with a color accurate image and take it from there. 
4. Learn to use photoshops curves to adjust and correct color in post.

Sincerely
Zave Smith
www.zavesmith.com

Jun 03 18 06:39 am Link

Clothing Designer

GRMACK

Posts: 5436

Bakersfield, California, US

Here are some cards that allow you to warm or cool a scene.  Reminds me of picking the ColorChecker warm/cool colors in post with the WB eyedropper tool, just that you set it all prior in camera with these cards.

https://www.vortexmediastore.com/pages/ … nce-system

Jun 03 18 07:32 am Link

Photographer

Leonard Gee Photography

Posts: 18096

Sacramento, California, US

it's much like what do you want for your last meal or which lens you use for a portrait. it all depends on your requirements.

some photographers are happy to simply have an image. some photographers and clients need color matching. considering that most of the time, if the color temp is within 200k, it's ok with me, but when hitting around 500k or so, i may think about it. it would have helped for you to read some of the articles and make your own decisions - but that's not a very popular method of learning now. if you had read and looked at the charts, in most locations, daylight color variation from around 9/10 am to noon isn't that much. noon to 3/4 pm is a bit more change. that's daylight (if you did read, that's sunlight + skylight).
https://webcube-general.s3.amazonaws.com/eizo/media/contentassets/2014/10/27/02_1.gif

the major changes are from shade (skylight only) to daylight. on bright overcast days, color changes more than heavy overcast days. for non-critical work, except for early and later in the day, you may not need adjustment at all (assuming you don't move from shade to daylight and back or sun and back lighting).

with the pro cameras, i simply have standard white balance targets saved for each lighting condition and switch the custom balance to the correct card swatch when it's really critical and the results must match throughout the whole day. or the assistant pops the color target out every few hours or on every scene change.

all my flashes are uv and daylight corrected, so none have a blue cast. for fill flash, there generally is no need to correct. for the "golden hours" that depends on the effect required. have 81, 81A, 81B, 81C, 82, 82A, 82B, 82C gels and filters as well as a box of 3" kodak cc filter gels (think it was 50+ at last count, including nd) when picking nits are necessary. have also been known to just dialed in the kelvin number in a digital camera.

as a famous lighting teacher once said, "learn to see the light". train your eyes to see and understand what you are looking at. when you understand what is happening in front of your eyes - you will understand how to use light. there is no mystery to it at all. you simply have to notice more than the average person sees.

FIFTYONE PHOTOGRAPHY wrote:
The argument or conflicting information online is that the Grey card is, or should be used, for setting the exposure and a White card used for setting the White balance.

you just need to understand the word "neutral", as in neutral grey and "white". a neutral grey and neutral white are the same color balance. for color correction there is no difference.

Jun 03 18 09:54 am Link

Photographer

Barry Kidd Photography

Posts: 3351

Red Lion, Pennsylvania, US

ontherocks wrote:
I think some people put gels on their flashes (like a warming gel) for certain situations.

I've tried various things like an expodisc and a color card that you shoot at the beginning of each scene but never warmed up to them.

Warming gels or CTO.  (Color Temperature Orange) is designed to alter flash to match the ambient light.  They are most commonly used in full, 1/2 and 1/4 cuts.  You can also get 3/4 cuts but theres little point in that and few people do. Rather than being art gels like blue, red, green etc these are intended to be white balanced color correction gels. 

I use them for both color correction for white balance and to push color in camera to the extremes.  The shot below is an example of that.

I set the white balance on the camera all the way down to 2500K which pushed the ambient light for the background all the way to 10,000K+  Then hit my subject with a flash using two full cuts of CTO. That set my subjects skin to perhaps anywhere between 1400K - 1600K.  Since blues and yellows are complementary colors it works well without looking freakishly fake.

https://www.barrykidd.com/photography/portrait/women/valdalia/valdalia-001.jpg

Jun 03 18 12:32 pm Link

Photographer

Zave Smith Photography

Posts: 1696

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, US

My biggest source of color balance frustration is in many situations, in many offices and business locations, there are several different light sources, each having its own white balance.

I have walked into rooms that contain, warm and cool fluorescent fixtures, with some tungsten, tossed in, plus a few LED lights and then strong open windows....how in the fuck do you balance that? 

I just balance the best I can on the subject and try and clean up the background as best I can in post.

I love diversity, but it can drive us nuts in lighting.  Thankfully, many newer buildings are going all LED which is easy to balance to.

Jun 04 18 04:12 am Link

Photographer

JBP Graphics

Posts: 108

Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

Use a WB card, take your pick on brand but stay with one so you have consistent WB shot to shot. Just ask the model to hold it for the first frame of each clothing change.

Shooting outside even in the same location the WB can change based on clouds no clouds etc. I would not use AWB since the clothing could influence the WB adjustment in camera as well.

Jun 04 18 01:05 pm Link

Retoucher

3869283

Posts: 1464

Sofia, Sofija grad, Bulgaria

FIFTYONE PHOTOGRAPHY wrote:
* My next set will be outdoors and the concern is the ever changing ambient.

If I remain in a particular outdoor location for any period of time will this affect My white balance? 

This one may be a no brainer but if I move to a different spot in the same general location will this affect My white balance?


I shoot with off camera flash and will be setting white balance with the flash.  Is this wise outdoors or just go with auto white balance?

The camera's hardware white balance is fixed, you can't change it. What you change is the way the raw data is developed in which process you assign the white balance. For correct exposure (exposing to the right) you should watch the raw histogram, i.e. that which the hardware of the camera gives you. Everything else you do in post. Learn about UniWB and ETTR.

Jun 04 18 01:36 pm Link