Forums > Photography Talk > Strobe Lighting, what made and brand should I get?

Photographer

SP GRAPHICS

Posts: 563

Los Angeles, California, US

I am new to a studio lighting.  However, I love the control and the result that I got from strobe.  What do you recomment for a beginner like me?  What Brand what made?  How many?  1? 2? or 3?.  I love result I get from umbera and soft box. 

Thank you for your help in advance. 

David :-)

Feb 09 07 11:57 pm Link

Photographer

David Poata

Posts: 421

Waitakere, Auckland, New Zealand

Check out, 'Jeremy Du Brul's' very informative Blog, ADVICE ON PURCHASING FLASH EQUIPMENT

Feb 10 07 03:20 am Link

Photographer

215 Studios

Posts: 3453

Center Point, Texas, US

After reading that, go check out alienbees.com.

-Major

Feb 10 07 03:23 am Link

Photographer

lll

Posts: 12295

Seattle, Washington, US

Discussed to death.  Try this list, I just re-bumped it.

- lll's Ring Flash Light Compact CF Raw List

And then use the Search Function, please.

https://amd.streamload.com/lll0228/Hosted/MM_SearchFunction.gif

Feb 10 07 03:26 am Link

Photographer

Derek Ridgers

Posts: 1625

London, England, United Kingdom

lll wrote:
Discussed to death.  Try this list, I just re-bumped it.

- lll's Ring Flash Light Compact CF Raw List

And then use the Search Function, please.

https://amd.streamload.com/lll0228/Hosted/MM_SearchFunction.gif

See, this is what I don't understand about these forums.  A new guy will come on here and always, if the question is a common one, almost immediately someone will write "do a search!"

Towards someone who is an admitted beginner this is slightly rude, don't you think?

I clicked on your link, and much of it is not relevant to the question asked and also out of date. Most of it may just confuse a beginner.

And you know, almost all the questions on here have been asked before, so why bother having a forum?  No one forces you to click on these questions, do they?

Maybe people come on here and ask these questions because they want real time, contemporaneous advice from people who can look at their port and give them suggestions which are more likely to be targetted towards their precise needs?

IMHO in photography you can only learn so much from books or the internet before needing some real, human to human interaction.  This forum could be the next best thing.

Feb 10 07 04:01 am Link

Photographer

JM Dean

Posts: 8931

Cary, North Carolina, US

Derek Ridgers wrote:

See, this is what I don't understand about these forums.  A new guy will come on here and always, if the question is a common one, almost immediately someone will write "do a search!"

Towards someone who is an admitted beginner this is slightly rude, don't you think?

I clicked on your link, and much of it is not relevant to the question asked and also out of date. Most of it may just confuse a beginner.

And you know, almost all the questions on here have been asked before, so why bother having a forum?  No one forces you to click on these questions, do they?

Maybe people come on here and ask these questions because they want real time, contemporaneous advice from people who can look at their port and give them suggestions which are more likely to be targetted towards their precise needs?

IMHO in photography you can only learn so much from books or the internet before needing some real, human to human interaction.  This forum could be the next best thing.

Buy Profoto and forget all the rest smile

The problem with these forums is that the search feature is hidden on the first page and very limited. It helps sometimes when someone points people to the correct location for a search.

Real time answers will get you the same results as what has already been discussed many times before. MAC or Windows? Nikon or Canon? RAW or jpg? Escort or no escort? Should I pose nude or not? (that answer is always yes smile ) I don’t think anyone is trying to be rude, but helpful in pointing out common topics. A better search feature would help this out a lot.

Feb 10 07 04:37 am Link

Photographer

ChanStudio

Posts: 9219

Alpharetta, Georgia, US

S P GRAPICS wrote:
I am new to a studio lighting.  However, I love the control and the result that I got from strobe.  What do you recomment for a beginner like me?  What Brand what made?  How many?  1? 2? or 3?.  I love result I get from umbera and soft box. 

Thank you for your help in advance. 

David :-)

This all depends on what your budget.  Do you want low grade, medium grade or high grade strobes?

Feb 10 07 06:27 am Link

Photographer

MB Photo 13

Posts: 1181

New York, New York, US

If you have a good  amount of $$$$ to spend go with Profoto strobes  they are on the expencive side  but well worth the money

Feb 10 07 09:13 am Link

Photographer

J Welborn

Posts: 2552

Clarksville, Tennessee, US

When I shot 4x5 slide film and had to get it right in the camera I used Balcar lights and got great results .

Things have changed and we can make adjustments after the shot is on the computer screen and just about any strobe that produces consistant color temp is a good deal. White Lightning and Alien Bees are almost indestructable and have the best customer service in the world.
I had a light  ( Whie Lightning ) that had some issues ( 11 years old ) I was passing through Nashville on the way to Florida and intended to leave it there for repair and pick it up on the way back . The customer service guy said "hey take one of ours and use it and bring it back when you pick up yours "
A hand shake and no paper work . Now where can you get that .
Tha Balcars are on the shelf and have been for a long time smile

Feb 10 07 09:35 am Link

Photographer

Warren Leimbach

Posts: 3223

Tampa, Florida, US

Tell us more about what you want to shoot.  Parties?  Basketball?  Ants?  Portraits of remote villagers? 

That will help us give you better answers.

Feb 10 07 01:21 pm Link

Photographer

Kevin Connery

Posts: 17824

El Segundo, California, US

Warren Leimbach wrote:
Tell us more about what you want to shoot.  Parties?  Basketball?  Ants?  Portraits of remote villagers? 

That will help us give you better answers.

The answer to those questions--and some others (common aperture and ISO speed used) are sufficiently important that most any answer which doesn't include a reference to them should be taken with a pound of salt.

FWIW, the specific thread lll probably meant was his lll's Best Camera Monitor LCD Lighting Power List one.

A decent source of other questions needing to be answered are also included in my Photo.net article: Studio Lighting - making the equipment decision.

Feb 10 07 05:37 pm Link

Photographer

San Francisco Nudes

Posts: 2910

Novato, California, US

If you're really just starting, I'd just get a single alien bee (B800 probably), their heavy duty stand, and a brolly box and a 30 degree honeycomb grid to start.  You can actually take an amazing variety of pictures with those, and it's cheap.  Also get some big sheets of white foamboard from your local office supply store to use as a reflector.

Basically by the time you really master that setup you'll know enough to decide where to go from there - more lights, more modifiers, if you want to go up a notch in the lighting universe White Lightning is owned by the same guy and uses the same accessories - lots of us have a mix of the two brands - so you have somewhere to go without causing yourself grief.  Anyway, you can always sell the bee on eBay - they retain their value really well.

I just ran it up and before shipping it's just over $400 for that setup.

Feb 10 07 05:58 pm Link

Photographer

Sandy Ramirez

Posts: 6089

Brooklyn, New York, US

If you are serious  Profoto or Dynalites.

Feb 10 07 05:59 pm Link

Photographer

Kevin Connery

Posts: 17824

El Segundo, California, US

Sandy Ramirez wrote:
If you are serious  Profoto or Dynalites.

Or Speedotron, or Balcar, or Elinchrom, or Norman, or Comet, or ...

Feb 10 07 06:08 pm Link

Photographer

Sandy Ramirez

Posts: 6089

Brooklyn, New York, US

Kevin Connery wrote:

Or Speedotron, or Balcar, or Elinchrom, or Norman, or Comet, or ...

You forgot Broncolor wink

Feb 10 07 06:22 pm Link

Photographer

Giacomo Cirrincioni

Posts: 22232

Stamford, Connecticut, US

Or Broncolor or Hensel...

The reason we post research options instead of sounbites is because 1) most of these broad questions cannot be answered simply in a few paragraphs and 2) at least two thirds of the answers given on these forums are complete bullshit, delivered by someone with limited knowledge who will then argue with you for six pages about how, for example in this case, Alien Bees are just as good as Profoto.

I don't blame the new people, I blame a poor education system which has moved away from teaching people how to learn and instead simply teach them to regurgitate "information"...

Feb 10 07 06:22 pm Link

Photographer

Isaac Madera

Posts: 473

Victorville, California, US

if you like my avatar... goto www.alienbees.com  cheap and great results!

Feb 10 07 06:24 pm Link

Photographer

sdsteve

Posts: 1610

Spokane, Washington, US

i got some speedotron stuff for sale...

Feb 10 07 06:24 pm Link

Photographer

Kevin Connery

Posts: 17824

El Segundo, California, US

Kevin Connery wrote:
Or Speedotron, or Balcar, or Elinchrom, or Norman, or Comet, or ...

Sandy Ramirez wrote:
You forgot Broncolor wink

Nah. That's the second . in the ... smile

Paramour Productions wrote:
I don't blame the new people, I blame a poor education system which has moved away from teaching people how to learn and instead simply teach them to regurgitate "information"...

I'm not sure that's the reason, but the results match.

When I started looking some years back, I was careful to ask "what questions do I need to consider when buying studio lighting", and the two most common answers were "Buy White Lightning" and "Buy Photogenic". No reasons, no questions about what/how I shot: just brand names.

Feb 10 07 06:35 pm Link

Photographer

Sandy Ramirez

Posts: 6089

Brooklyn, New York, US

Paramour Productions wrote:
Or Broncolor or Hensel...

The reason we post research options instead of sounbites is because 1) most of these broad questions cannot be answered simply in a few paragraphs and 2) at least two thirds of the answers given on these forums are complete bullshit, delivered by someone with limited knowledge who will then argue with you for six pages about how, for example in this case, Alien Bees are just as good as Profoto.

I don't blame the new people, I blame a poor education system which has moved away from teaching people how to learn and instead simply teach them to regurgitate "information"...

Ok In the interest of helping out better...

Why say Profoto, Dynalite, Broncolor, Hensel, et al over say anything made by Paul C Buff (Alien Bees, White Lightings, monoblocks in general).

Pack systems are inherently easier and far more flexible. They usually are modular and can be adapted to fit nearly any situation. Say you have a Octabank on a Alien Bee on a super boom seven feet up. Say you need to change a power setting. It is a hell of a lot easier to walk up to a pack and change the power than say finding a ladder to climb up to change the power. Hell in the case of Profoto D4's you can change the power from your computer (the D4's software allows control of packs via USB - as many as you can daisy chain together).

Packs in truth are not as expensive as they sound. A used Dynalite Kit with two heads may run you about what a new AB kit would cost. Most pack kits are also far more durable, and can take a hell of a lot of punishment. Finally power and accesories - you won't find a monoblock that outputs 4800ws.

If you are going into this for a career, consider a pack system an investment, much like your lenses. They'll last you longer, and they are worth it.

Feb 10 07 06:36 pm Link

Photographer

Bill Westfield

Posts: 383

Baltimore, Maryland, US

David,

Depending on what you want to do, one might be enough, or 10 might not!

I have a relatively small (that is to say, cozy!) studio in Baltimore MD, and currently have 5 strobs (plus reflectors, gels, brollies and softboxes, etc.). I'll usually use a main, and "feather" it off a reflecter. In many shots I'll also use a seperation (background) light and/or a hair light.

As you can see from above, this is maximally a 3 light system using a reflector for fill. I very rarely use more than that.

The BEST advice I can offer is to start out with 1 strobe, a softbox or umbrella (the softbox is better for controling light in tight spaces, but the umbrella is a mere fraction of the price), and a reflector (for most things a piece of "foam-core" will work as a reflector - $4.00 at your local art supply store!). Work with this set up untill you "know it by heart!". You can certainly produce GREAT work in this way.

Then, as you feel comfortable, add more lights if and as necessary.


Also, and although "monolights" have fallen out of favor with some photographers, I find that the ones being built today are exceptional and, unless you're going to use them out of doors, offer several advantages over the bulky "power pack" systems that are also available.

I hope this helps.

Bill Westfield

Feb 10 07 06:37 pm Link

Photographer

JFM Photography

Posts: 159

Anderson, South Carolina, US

I just bought 4  B800 strobes from alienbee. It was the busy bee package. You really get alot for your money. I am new to studio lighting also but these are very user friendly. Their customer service is the best in the biz. I am totally happy with my purchase. They are straight from the manufacterer no middle man to deal with so they are very inexpensive. I received them the day after I ordered them online, very fast service. Make sure you get a good lightmeter also.  Check them out @ www.alienbees.com

Feb 10 07 06:44 pm Link

Photographer

Kevin Connery

Posts: 17824

El Segundo, California, US

Sandy Ramirez wrote:
Pack systems are inherently easier and far more flexible.

Arguable, and based on the specific pack. If you'll only be using one head per pack, you'll save money in almost every case using a monolight. If your pack only supports symmetrical output, multiple heads will be less easily controlled. If it supports assymetry but only on a block by block basis, you may need to juggle sockets to obtain the right mix.

For a very few packs--such as Profoto's D4 ($5500 for 1200 watt-seconds, without heads) or Elinchrom's Digital RX ($2200 for 1500 watt-seconds, without heads) none of the above apply.

Sandy Ramirez wrote:
They usually are modular and can be adapted to fit nearly any situation. Say you have a Octabank on a Alien Bee on a super boom seven feet up. Say you need to change a power setting. It is a hell of a lot easier to walk up to a pack and change the power than say finding a ladder to climb up to change the power. Hell in the case of Profoto D4's you can change the power from your computer (the D4's software allows control of packs via USB - as many as you can daisy chain together).

Packs in truth are not as expensive as they sound. A used Dynalite Kit with two heads may run you about what a new AB kit would cost. Most pack kits are also far more durable, and can take a hell of a lot of punishment. Finally power and accesories - you won't find a monoblock that outputs 4800ws.

If you are going into this for a career, consider a pack system an investment, much like your lenses. They'll last you longer, and they are worth it.

Without knowing how and what the photographer will be doing, answering is nearly as pointless as making blanket claims about pack systems which aren't "typical" features for most such systems, and implying things about monolights that have the same failing. Yes, some monolights will die early and/or not hold up to heavy use; others are quite robust. (I dropped my 8 lb Speedotron Force 10 on the floor from a 5-6' height, and the bulb didn't break; it still works fine. (Modeling light didn't survive, though.) Nor do most starting photographers-of-people need 4000+ watt-seconds in a single head.

Given enough time, money, and required flexibility, a mix of pack+head setups and monolights is usually more effective than solely pack or solely monolights--but not always. Prior to that point, some will be best served with monolights first, and others with pack setups first.

Feb 10 07 11:49 pm Link

Photographer

eg

Posts: 1225

Miami Beach, Florida, US

Derek Ridgers wrote:

lll wrote:
Discussed to death.  Try this list, I just re-bumped it.

- lll's Ring Flash Light Compact CF Raw List

And then use the Search Function, please.

https://amd.streamload.com/lll0228/Hosted/MM_SearchFunction.gif

See, this is what I don't understand about these forums.  A new guy will come on here and always, if the question is a common one, almost immediately someone will write "do a search!"

Towards someone who is an admitted beginner this is slightly rude, don't you think?




I clicked on your link, and much of it is not relevant to the question asked and also out of date. Most of it may just confuse a beginner.

And you know, almost all the questions on here have been asked before, so why bother having a forum?  No one forces you to click on these questions, do they?

Maybe people come on here and ask these questions because they want real time, contemporaneous advice from people who can look at their port and give them suggestions which are more likely to be targetted towards their precise needs?

IMHO in photography you can only learn so much from books or the internet before needing some real, human to human interaction.  This forum could be the next best thing.

https://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a144/lomis/applause9ce10xt.gif

Feb 10 07 11:54 pm Link

Photographer

Sandy Ramirez

Posts: 6089

Brooklyn, New York, US

Kevin Connery wrote:

Sandy Ramirez wrote:
Pack systems are inherently easier and far more flexible.

Arguable, and based on the specific pack. If you'll only be using one head per pack, you'll save money in almost every case using a monolight. If your pack only supports symmetrical output, multiple heads will be less easily controlled. If it supports assymetry but only on a block by block basis, you may need to juggle sockets to obtain the right mix.

For a very few packs--such as Profoto's D4 ($5500 for 1200 watt-seconds, without heads) or Elinchrom's Digital RX ($2200 for 1500 watt-seconds, without heads) none of the above apply.


Without knowing how and what the photographer will be doing, answering is nearly as pointless as making blanket claims about pack systems which aren't "typical" features for most such systems, and implying things about monolights that have the same failing. Yes, some monolights will die early and/or not hold up to heavy use; others are quite robust. (I dropped my 8 lb Speedotron Force 10 on the floor from a 5-6' height, and the bulb didn't break; it still works fine. (Modeling light didn't survive, though.) Nor do most starting photographers-of-people need 4000+ watt-seconds in a single head.

Given enough time, money, and required flexibility, a mix of pack+head setups and monolights is usually more effective than solely pack or solely monolights--but not always. Prior to that point, some will be best served with monolights first, and others with pack setups first.

Maybe it's just me - but I have yet to see a pack system that doesn't support asymetrical output, with the exception of the new Profoto Acute battery powered unit.

Most folks I know (and this may just be us folks here in NYC - not Lala land) usually do two heads per pack unless we are using Bi-tubes, then it's two packs per head.

A Speedo or Broncolor Mini-Pulsos is a far different (and far more expensive) animal to said Alien Bee's. They are designed like packs - Alien Bee's aren't.

The point is in the end the pack is a better option. I have never seen a monoblock in any Rental studio here in NYC on the equipment list. Guess we folks in NYC are just not getting it.

Feb 11 07 12:20 am Link

Photographer

Lorin A Edmonds

Posts: 1181

Eugene, Oregon, US

David Poata wrote:
Check out, 'Jeremy Du Brul's' very informative Blog, ADVICE ON PURCHASING FLASH EQUIPMENT

Interesting that he forgot to mention the one American company with 60% of the US market.

Paul C. Buff also known as www.Alienbees.com and www.White-lightning.com.

Feb 11 07 12:23 am Link

Photographer

Matrix Photography

Posts: 269

Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Just get the alienbees - starter kit with two or three strobes. Then, don't forget to white balance before your shoot if capturing jpeg - the bulbs are a little cooler than daylight.

Feb 11 07 12:32 am Link

Photographer

Greg Truelove

Posts: 45

Atlanta, Georgia, US

Dynalite suits me fine until the bucks start rolling in

Feb 11 07 12:41 am Link

Photographer

Sandy Ramirez

Posts: 6089

Brooklyn, New York, US

'Eyes Of Truelove" wrote:
Dynalite suits me fine until the bucks start rolling in

Outside of renting the occasional Profoto unit for a ringlight or the zoom spot, My Dynalights have been my mainstay

Feb 11 07 12:47 am Link