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Moving from constant to strobes - need help please
The basic SV constant kit im using needs updating and I've decided to go with AB's. Heres the kit I plan to get: x2 AB 1600's plus heavy stands 30x60 softbox 48 inch silver umbrella some other random add ons (grids etc) A wireless system - either ABs or Pocket wizard As far as i can work out the AB wirless system needs a transmitter and a receiver for each light - roughly $460 - where as the PW is only $300 and does the whole thing - or am i totally wrong there LOL Am i going WAY over the top with the 1600's (100% indoor studio shooting - no natural light) and would be better getting two 800's. Ive been mulling these questions over for 3 hours and its getting no clearer - maybe this is why of put off buying strobes for sooooo long - all help appreciated Mar 04 06 06:11 pm Link I don't use bees but IMO 1600's are overkill. I have 1000ws lights and never use past half power. Mar 04 06 06:16 pm Link There are cheaper alternatives to PW - search B&H. I would suggest buying better strobes than AB. 3 - 500ws is a smarter choice. E L Mar 04 06 06:17 pm Link Maybe . I like to have the extra power made available with being able to control the levels in powering up or down + or - 1/2 stop increments and have used the full power setting in larger commercial areas. It all depends on what your shooting and needs are . Sincerely Ron Blake Mar 04 06 06:20 pm Link If your budget can stand it, go with Elinchromes. My 600's are so sweet. Mar 04 06 06:22 pm Link I have White Lighting Ultra 1600s and they ARE too much for 70-80% of my use in a small studio environment. I usually have them powered down almost as low as they will go. Bottom line, if I were doing it again I'd go with 800WS Ultras and they'd be fine. And save some $s...or get a 4th unit so I could have 2 units on the background and still have a main and fill on the subject. Mar 04 06 06:29 pm Link JM Dean wrote: Im guessing i just don't want to find myself in a position where i have to buy twice and would prefer to turn them down if need be. Mar 04 06 06:32 pm Link E L Fanucchi wrote: I'm searching B&H now - very helpful, more choice, more confusion - thanks for the link. Mar 04 06 06:37 pm Link Ron B Blake wrote: This is what i was thinking - someones got me thinking about 3 lower powered ones though -aaaarrgh Mar 04 06 06:38 pm Link Stephen Dawson wrote: I saw a set locally and really liked them - recent purchases of a 24" FP monitor, Panasonic 3CCD and a few lenses preclude me from going that way - in any event 6 candles are better than the SV's right now. Mar 04 06 06:40 pm Link CO_Charlie wrote: Yea, never use mine full power but nice to know I have the power if I ever need it Mar 04 06 06:40 pm Link DRNicholson Photography wrote: Im warming to the idea of 3 lower rated lights - does this mean id need three receivers for a wirless system though? Mar 04 06 06:42 pm Link CO_Charlie wrote: If no one else will be shooting in the area as you, one receiver will do. Just turn the other lights to slave off the one with the receiver. Mar 04 06 06:45 pm Link No one has mentioned recycle time, yet. Recycle time (the time it takes electronic flash to recharge for the next "pop") is critical for people and model photography. Anything over one second is just too slow. Monolights are particularly affected. Larger ones tend to recycle more slowly than lower powered ones. Hence, it is better to go for the less powerful ones with faster recycle times, and have more of them. Mar 04 06 06:54 pm Link Universal Beauty wrote: Larger ones, or mine anyway, have a different recycle times depending on power used. From ½ second at low power to 3 seconds at full power. Not many models I work with can be in thier next pose within 3 seconds and I can't compose my next shot within three seconds lol. Mar 04 06 07:01 pm Link I'm looking at picking up a 160 and 320 Photogenic Studiomax III light. There are plenty of good generic wireless remotes that you can get on eBay. Mar 04 06 07:04 pm Link I shoot mostly with using my 800 ultra and two 1600 with never experiencing a recycle problem or making me wait. I dont know the stats and numbers on the recycle time but the capacitors are always ready for the next shot fully charged recycle to 100% 1/2 second http://www.white-lightning.com/x1600.html Mar 04 06 07:05 pm Link I would think the 800 Alien Bees are good enough cause you will probably turn it down to about 1/4th or even 1/8th anyways on normal studio work. Only real reason I would think you need the 1600's is for outdoor work. When shooting with softboxes alot of the time i use them close to the model cause of the dispersion of light from the softbox. The further away the light is more one-way directional... Mar 04 06 07:07 pm Link The auto cooling fans are nice on the 1600 Keeps things cool and wont let things over heat during rapid continuous shooting Sincerely Ron Blake Mar 04 06 07:07 pm Link I've got 2 AB 800'a and one 400, have used them all inside and out.. sometimes even the 800's are too much.. but then I tend to shoot with short distance between light and subject to keep it soft. The 800's have plenti of pop. Mar 04 06 07:10 pm Link CO_Charlie wrote: Elinchrom you will have them for life. Mar 04 06 07:14 pm Link Also, consider their battery set up- I didn't see it listed. It's compact and comes with goodies like the ability to connect it to the car battery for those night shoots (or cave shoots as the case may be) Mar 04 06 07:14 pm Link I use 3 Alien Bees B800s- I have never wanted for more power. My prime studio space is a 20x20 gameroom. I also take my lights and have shot in various locations including outdoors, hotel rooms, private residences, bars, 2nd story lighting, etc. The 1600s might be overkill. -Jose PS: You may be able to save a lot of money on your wireless system by doing a ebay search for "wireless flash trigger." The one I use cost me $30 and has been through alot. Mar 04 06 07:22 pm Link CO_Charlie wrote: No Replacement for Displacement (okay so it's car speak)...I usually use a lower setting the majority of the time on my lights. However, I have used them at full power too. It's nice to have the extra power when you need it. Mar 04 06 07:30 pm Link JT Hodges wrote: CO_Charlie wrote: It's nice to have the extra power when you need it. Mar 04 06 07:34 pm Link Another alternative would be an Arriflex focusing fresnel spotlight. Most everything on my page uses this light. A little warm for some people, but I love the way it works. Oh drama! Mar 04 06 07:40 pm Link Edit: Why do you feel the need for a wireless trigger system? If I remember correctly, AB's are photo-sensitive. Wire to one light, and let that one trigger the rest. Also, I think I read rumor that some of the better (Canon and/or Nikon) new cameras will have PW installed within the camera..requiring that you simply have the slave units. The new Canon's don't have a PW installed. You can buy a Canon (C'mon man.. they have to make money somehow) flash trigger the works primarily with their 500 series flashes. I agree with the E-bay idea. Porters also sells a set that will work with AB's for around $150. Mar 04 06 07:48 pm Link Thanks for the help so far. Im still undecided between having 3*800's or 2*1600's - the 800's probably have enough power by the sounds of things and who wouldnt want the extra light - i might have to experiment and buy both light kits and send one back. My shoot locations are very much similar to Jose, 20*20 studio, hotels, villa's etc I almost want to say "hands up who shoots most of the time in those places and what do you use" *To JT Hodges* - why do i need wireless? Wires are my enemy, if i can get wrapped up in those darn things i will - i can make a whole set collapse just by tugging on a small wire snagged on a stand - if my camera had a wire attached to it, id need to quadruple my insurance. Mar 04 06 09:16 pm Link I don't see why you can't use the slaves that are built into most monolights. With a small flash on the camera that you can tilt away from the subject and doesn't have pre-flash (or a way to turn off the pre-flash). The radio trippers would only be needed if there were other photographers firing flashes that might trip your flashes. Mar 04 06 09:33 pm Link With the kind of work you do, you would place the light pretty close to your subject anyway. You would not need much power. Given that, I'd say take 3 of the smaller lights. I would also recommend Elinchrom 400BX ($490) over any of the AB lights. Much better built, higher consistency, more light modifier available etc. Mar 04 06 09:35 pm Link If you decide on AB's, stay away from their soft boxes. They are a pain to set up. I have also heard that their wireless system may suffer from interference depending upon your location. The lights themselves are fine, just not the soft boxes. For wireless, go with pocket wizards. Mar 04 06 09:41 pm Link Bill Gunter wrote: This wireless malarky has actually been the cause of most of my confusion LOL. Mar 04 06 10:01 pm Link I just bought 2 B800s for my 15x15 home studio. Believe me, at full power, even with a softbox on one (Paterson) and a beauty dish and sock on the other (AB), it's enough to blind an elephant. I can't ever imagine running these at full power, unless my model is already visually impaired. Gotta recommend the Avenger A635B stands... just bought them, but they feel very sturdy, were easy to set up, etc. I did get the AB background light stand as well, but I'll mostly use it for holding reflectors, etc. Mar 04 06 10:19 pm Link lll wrote: Id have to agree being that most of the time the model isnt much further than 6 or 8 feet from a light source. Mar 04 06 10:29 pm Link DGImages wrote: Im looking around at other manufacturers softboxes, like photoflex - i can only assume the $279 vs AB's $139 has to account for a tad better build quality lol. Mar 04 06 10:38 pm Link JM Dean wrote: Of course, what you say is true, nobody hits the next pose that fast, but how many times have you pulled the trigger and just after the flash, the model relaxes, or smiles just right and a whole lot better shot gets away because you couldn't just pull the trigger again in 1/2 second or so? Also. fast recycle times are a necesskty if you are shooting dancers. My ABs will stay ahead of the continuous shooting mode on my Pentax 645N. It's a blessing when you need it. Mar 05 06 10:41 am Link I use AB 800 and have never turn it up beyond 1/2. ever. I use them on locaton outdoors at 1/8 - 1/4 power Buy what you can afford - Elins are superb but expensive. When I have a corporate client portrait I pull out my old Ascorlights. They have the coolest smoothest light. Yes they are dinosaurs. but sweet! You need one transmitter and one receiver. The flash will trigger the other monos only old farts know waht an Ascorlight is! Mar 05 06 11:14 am Link Thanks for all your help guys and gals. I took the advice of those who recommended the 800's and placed an order today. Probably the most sensible approach i feel, im sure im not the only one who gets caught up in the whole "go for the most powerful ones" trap. Ill be bugging you all again soon when i don't get the results i want straight away LOL Mar 05 06 03:39 pm Link DRNicholson Photography wrote: FYI Mar 05 06 03:55 pm Link Mar 05 06 04:11 pm Link |
