Per Rutquist wrote:

Wait, what? You're using a 1/160 s (6.3 ms) shutter speed with a 1/5 s (200 ms) strobe duration. This means that most of the flash output is wasted after the shutter has closed. Effectively you're probably getting less than 2 Ws - not 20.

Comparing to a normal speedlite you're at something like 1/32 power. At that level, the speedlite can probably shoot 10 frames per second for 50 frames before recycling time become an issue, so your LED doesn't have any advantage there.

Well, at least this explains why you did not have a problem with the model blinking.

Excellent observation. I'll knock the strobe duration down quite a bit and see how it performs. I had it set long mostly for my benefit. Some people seem to be able to see what's going on in a fraction of a second, not me. I reprogrammed the micro last night to allow output a 10ms pulse.

I may be able to shoot some more people photos with it this weekend.

Jamez wrote:
more power to yah

(no really - more power)

I love the innovation as well, but I unfortunately have to side with some of the others.
I only have a little knowledge in this realm, but from what I do know the output of the gastubes is significantly higher than what you'll achieve with the LED. I'd ask myself, if it could be done cheaper/lighter/faster at a premium price, I'm sure the Nikon and Litepanel would/is jumping on board.

As for recycling times for strobes, yeah it's more heavy, but external packs work perfectly for 75% or more of the shooters out there.

Perhaps taking a look at how the tactical LED strobes that are used in the military/police forces may be a good start. The ones they use to visually stun. They're a compact package, but normally used in dark - so the output may not really be that much.

It's damn difficult to compete with gas filled tubes. Very difficult. Tubes are also delicate. I'd like my flash to be something more rugged which I can throw into a bag and not have to worry about putting those protective caps on. I'd also like to be able to use this thing outside in most weather conditions or even under water.

I'm definitely not 75% of shooters.

Are these the military products which are also used with night vision enhancing products?

Random Image wrote:
Just me thinking aloud, but why not reverse the aiming of the led backwards into a reflector, like a tiny strobe and umbrella.  If done right should provide plenty of scattering.

I started messing with something like this last summer. I left off where I was in the process of figuring out my needed radius of curvature and dish size. It got to the point where I was going to have to machine out my own reflector and that just sounded expensive. If I get this electronic portion to be acceptable, then I'll revisit the reflector.

AG_Boston wrote:
Are these the military products which are also used with night vision enhancing products?

No, just powerful flashlights, maybe you can find the LED supplier. I honestly don't know if they're even in your ballpark for output.

https://shop.monsterflashlight.com/prod … ax-5-mode/

http://www.feldfire.com/Flashlights_c_7 … AiPQ8P8HAQ

Eye of the World wrote:
Why do you need a real model, wouldn't any random person - friend or neighbor - work for these testing purposes? Just say you will buy them a nice lunch if they will let you try out some lighting stuff for an hour or so.

Eye of the world wheel of time reference?

It's much easier to work with someone who is used to being photographed. Enough so that I'm willing to wait.

AG_Boston wrote:
It's much easier to work with someone who is used to being photographed. Enough so that I'm willing to wait.

I'm sorry, but that's just stupid. The first thing you're going to notice next time you try this is that the reflector / diffuser or whatever you added to make the light softer is taking out two stops. That means you're down to 0.5 Ws, and your picture quality will degrade accordingly. You can't install a stronger LED mid-shoot. The model will (rightly) feel like she wasted her time. This will make it much harder for you to book anyone in the future. Models talk.

Use the self timer on the camera (with yourself as the model) until you've worked out the electrical stuff. Book an actual model when you're reasonably sure that everything will work as intended.

(Or pay the model really well.)

AG_Boston wrote:

Eye of the world wheel of time reference?

It's much easier to work with someone who is used to being photographed. Enough so that I'm willing to wait.

Yes, it is a Wheel of Time reference.

I still don't understand your need for someone with posing ability. You are testing the *lighting*, not going for actual usable images. It doesn't matter how great the pose or expression is when the goal is to see the exposure, how the light falls off, shadow placement, etc. That can pretty much be done just as well with a manikin IMO.