Forums > Photography Talk > Power Inverter to power monolights on the go?

Photographer

Steven Sandler 1967

Posts: 8

Los Angeles, California, US

I may need to use my strobes on a location shoot, but I don’t have a portable power pack ($$$$$).  I'm doing 100% art collabs/TFP now, so I can't go crazy buying gear.  I’m considering using a power inverter off my truck battery. Do any of you know how clean my line voltage needs to be so that I don’t risk damaging my monolights? Modified sine wave inverters are really cheap, but they don’t deliver the cleanest line voltage. True sine wave inverters deliver power that’s cleaner than the power in your house, but they’re fairly pricey, especially at the wattage I’d need (probably over 1,500 watts).  I already have a 250 watt modified wave inverter, but I doubt it's powerful enough to power one or two strobes.  Can't find any specs for required wattage input.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  Note: I'm assuming that I won't be able to use my modeling lights, which is NBD

Jan 04 17 07:24 pm Link

Photographer

Guss W

Posts: 10964

Clearwater, Florida, US

I tried using a modified sine wave inverter and it worked on one brand flash, but not another.  Those were older flash units, incidentally.  Testing is high risk, so don't do it if you can't afford repairs.

Most cheaper brand inverters do not deliver the watts they claim, so plan accordingly.

Flash units cause a huge surge while charging, and may overload the inverter.   Once they are charged, you can turn on a modeling light for a few seconds to see how the light is falling.

Jan 04 17 10:23 pm Link

Photographer

Kevin Connery

Posts: 17824

El Segundo, California, US

It depends entirely on the specific model of flash.

I used an old Xantrex XPower modified sine wave setup, and it worked fine to drive 2 Speedotron 802's (Brownline) without any problems.
That same unit couldn't drive a single 805 (Blackline), any Profoto Acute.
It worked on the non-digital Photogenics I tried, but not the digital ones.

Jan 05 17 09:35 pm Link

Photographer

Tears Of Joy

Posts: 18

Orlando, Florida, US

the problem isn't so much the inverter output wattage....it's the fact the light doesn't have a constant draw that messes up the idea of using an inverter.  You can turn on the inverter and charge the light up, but then the power drops off while the light holds the charge.  When the flash fires and starts drawing power again, that's when things go wrong.

Jan 05 17 09:44 pm Link

Photographer

Michael Fryd

Posts: 5231

Miami Beach, Florida, US

Steven Sandler 1967 wrote:
I may need to use my strobes on a location shoot, but I don’t have a portable power pack ($$$$$).  I'm doing 100% art collabs/TFP now, so I can't go crazy buying gear.  I’m considering using a power inverter off my truck battery. Do any of you know how clean my line voltage needs to be so that I don’t risk damaging my monolights? Modified sine wave inverters are really cheap, but they don’t deliver the cleanest line voltage. True sine wave inverters deliver power that’s cleaner than the power in your house, but they’re fairly pricey, especially at the wattage I’d need (probably over 1,500 watts).  I already have a 250 watt modified wave inverter, but I doubt it's powerful enough to power one or two strobes.  Can't find any specs for required wattage input.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  Note: I'm assuming that I won't be able to use my modeling lights, which is NBD

Short Answer:
Buy some Paul Buff monolights and a Paul Buff "Vagabond" battery inverter.  Buff's lights and inverters are quite reasonably priced.

Long Answer:

The power needed for a studio strobe is dependent on the light's charging circuit, not the firing circuit.  Depending on the design, a 2.500Ws light might actually be easier to power than a 320Ws light.

Some lights can stand modified sine wave power, but some lights will be damaged by that. 

Studio strobes tend to draw very little power most of the time (just a little more than the modeling light needs), and then will have a very high peak demand while recharging.

A simple 320Ws light might easily draw 15 amps (1,800W) while recharging.  This happens fast enough that it two of them probably won't trip the household circuit breaker.  However a 300W inverter just can't handle this.  To get 15 amps at 120VAC, the inverter needs to pull over 150 amps from the 12V DC battery.

Buffs lights and inverters are designed to work together.  The inverter is "current limited".  When presented with an overload, it doesn't shut down, it reduces the output voltage.  The lights are designed to reduce their demand when the voltage goes down.  Together you can plug multiple Buff lights into a Buff inverter, and it will work.  As you add lights, the recycle time gets longer.

You can try other lights on Buff inverters, other inverters on Buff lights, or non buff lights with non buff inverters.  You might get lucky and it may work.  On the other hand it may not work, and you might damage the lights.

The advantage of the all Buff solution is that it is guaranteed to work so you don't have to spend time testing out various combinations.

Jan 07 17 09:22 pm Link