ddtphoto wrote:
in a room that size you wont often be pulling out for anything full body so, if you have decided to go w/ a softbox, you won't need a large one. also, w/ 9.5 foot ceilings you wouldn't want to go too big anyways because you'll never have enough clearence to boom a large softbox.

definitely think efficient. also, if you havent already you might consider painting the whole room white. you'd get some nice bounce light. then get yourself some 4x8 foamcore black/white and use the black side for pulling in shadows.

also, maybe get some grids, and you'll have a pretty nice set-up.

Thanks DDT!

That's what I feared. I can still do full body shots right, like using the 50 1.4 and getting a 35 or similar lens? I have and big window on the east and west size so get lots of ambient light, will get something to effectively when I don't want it. I was thinking of painting the walls a light gray (making sure not to have any blue). would that be okay or is it a must to have the white walls?

Paul Ferrara wrote:
The best softboxes are Plume, Chimera, and Larson, in that order.  I have a 40x60 Larson and one of the smaller ones for fill.  My studio is smaller than the space you have and they work fine for me.

Paul

Great news! Going to look those up now. THANKS!

Linda Siadys Photograph wrote:
That sounds good. I haven't looked at beauty dishes much.

Make sure you get grids for them, or else the spill gets crazy. (same thing goes for softboxes)

Screaming J Hyde wrote:
Grids are good, but that's been said...

Your toughest challenge will be a decent hair light.  How do you feel about cutting a hole in your ceiling to flush-mount a light/box/??? combo?  I've seen it done; sometimes it's the only way.

I don't mind. Pretty old house built in 30's and flat top roof. I will look into it. There is a ceiling fan with lights in the middle of the room which I will probably have to remove anyway, So if it was done there sure it could be done elsewhere in the room. Do you have any photos or link to the kind of lighting recommended?

Linda Siadys Photograph wrote:
Hoping someone will take the time to help me out.

I am converting one of the rooms in my house into a small studio. It is 11' x 18' with 9.5' ceilling. Currently, for lighting i have 1 580 EX and 1 580 EXII, ABR800, and 1 Genesis 200 light, I also have stands and 2 PW II. 12 x12' BG with Seamless & Muslin and Sekonic L-358.

I want to add another light and a soft box or 2? Would really appreciate advice about best soft box, especially considering the size along with a hair light stand/boom (again what best size) Also, What to get for another light stick with another Genesis 200 or different brand/power?

Will greatly appreciate advice since this is unchartered territory for me.

When considering a soft box, you should think about what the main role of the box will be as well as the strobe driving the box. For a good reference, see the Chimera catalogue

http://www.chimeralighting.com/download … alog07.pdf

First, in terms of size, if  you are looking for the box to serve as general fill for beauty lighting (you place the box behind, pointed at the subject, as you and stand in front), then medium (40x50) or large (50x70) is needed. If you are looking for the box to be the key light, and are shooting a single subject, then a small or medium will suffice.

The large boxes, like the Chimera 54x72, require quite a bit of light to drive (1000W or more) to obtain an exposure f/11 or higher.

Keep in mind that the effect of the softbox on your subject depends not only on the size of the box but, primarily, on the distance of the softbox to your subject. The further the softbox will be, the smaller it will be in relation to your subject, and the more it will act as a hard(er) light. If you bring the box right up to the subject, you'll get great wraparound and low-contrast light.

Adding grids (or louvers) to the box is important to control spill, as another poster said. With a grid, which looks like a large eggcrate that velcroes to the front of the box, the light remains soft but directional.

A beauty dish (e.g. 22") won't act like a small softbox, though it will give you less contrast than a hard, gridded source. If I had to choose between a softbox and a beauty dish, I would pick the dish every time... but that is my style. Most dishes have a central gridded region, which makes that part act as a hard directional light, and the dish part provides more wrap around (a bit like a softbox) to smooth out the transfer areas (boundary of light and shadow).

Personally, I would suggest you also investigate the strip light, which is a softbox but with a higher aspect ratio (e.g. 14x56). These can be gridded as well, and Amvona sells an inexpensive model (which comes with a grid).

http://www.amvona.com/?page=shop/flypag … ct_id=2718

I have both this model and a Chimera medium (which costs 2.5x more and does not come with a grid). As a starter, the one from Amvona is completely sufficient.

The reason why I like strip lights is that they provide more control for your light and give an ability to light your subject head-to-toe from one direction without too much spill. When gridded, you can get some great effects, especially when tilting the strip so that one part is closer to the head, to accentuate the falloff.

Good luck.

Lumondo Photography wrote:

When considering a soft box, you should think about what the main role of the box will be as well as the strobe driving the box. For a good reference, see the Chimera catalogue

http://www.chimeralighting.com/download … alog07.pdf

First, in terms of size, if  you are looking for the box to serve as general fill for beauty lighting (you place the box behind, pointed at the subject, as you and stand in front), then medium (40x50) or large (50x70) is needed. If you are looking for the box to be the key light, and are shooting a single subject, then a small or medium will suffice.

The large boxes, like the Chimera 54x72, require quite a bit of light to drive (1000W or more) to obtain an exposure f/11 or higher.

Keep in mind that the effect of the softbox on your subject depends not only on the size of the box but, primarily, on the distance of the softbox to your subject. The further the softbox will be, the smaller it will be in relation to your subject, and the more it will act as a hard(er) light. If you bring the box right up to the subject, you'll get great wraparound and low-contrast light.

Adding grids (or louvers) to the box is important to control spill, as another poster said. With a grid, which looks like a large eggcrate that velcroes to the front of the box, the light remains soft but directional.

A beauty dish (e.g. 22") won't act like a small softbox, though it will give you less contrast than a hard, gridded source. If I had to choose between a softbox and a beauty dish, I would pick the dish every time... but that is my style. Most dishes have a central gridded region, which makes that part act as a hard directional light, and the dish part provides more wrap around (a bit like a softbox) to smooth out the transfer areas (boundary of light and shadow).

Personally, I would suggest you also investigate the strip light, which is a softbox but with a higher aspect ratio (e.g. 14x56). These can be gridded as well, and Amvona sells an inexpensive model (which comes with a grid).

http://www.amvona.com/?page=shop/flypag … ct_id=2718

I have both this model and a Chimera medium (which costs 2.5x more and does not come with a grid). As a starter, the one from Amvona is completely sufficient.

The reason why I like strip lights is that they provide more control for your light and give an ability to light your subject head-to-toe from one direction without too much spill. When gridded, you can get some great effects, especially when tilting the strip so that one part is closer to the head, to accentuate the falloff.

Good luck.

Invaluable~! Thanks for the guidance and all the time you took to help. I  have been digesting and reading up on the info you provided. Really appreciate it and love your work! Thanks.
Linda