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Shooting Film...
I've been shooting digital now for about seven years. Prior to buying my first DSLR, I shot with a Pentax ME Super and a Pentax ZX-30. The ME Super was for black and white and the ZX-30 for color. After I went digital, of course, I sold all of my film equipment. Well today I just bought another ME Super with a motor drive. It should be delivered some time next week. Since going digital I've lost my "black and white eye." When the camera arrives my plan is to start occasionally shooting black and white film again. Some questions follow. Where do I find B&W film now? Do I want to shoot Kodak B&W films or Ilford B&W films. Do I want to process my own film? What about scanning the film? Flatbed or drum scanner? When the negatives are scanned, are they scanned same-size or larger? After seven years there is so much I don't know anymore about shooting film but I really want to try my hand at it again. Any input will be appreciated. Jul 13 14 11:17 am Link Frank Lewis Photography wrote: There are several online sources. Most local shops have gone out of business, but in cities, like mine, there are usually one or two smaller shops that still carry a stock of film (mostly for hipster kids). Frank Lewis Photography wrote: Up to you really... I don't believe the formulation has changed even though the people making them has Frank Lewis Photography wrote: I would... I mean it's easy, it's a lot cheaper than having someone else do it, and you're going to get more reliable results. Frank Lewis Photography wrote: I'd recommend a service. There are several you can send your film out to that will scan it for you. They do a lot better work than anyone can at home, but a lot of people scan on flatbed now too. Frank Lewis Photography wrote: It's typically impossible to get grain level resolution, but the files are usually larger than any digital anyway. Jul 13 14 11:22 am Link Jul 13 14 11:27 am Link I have to ask... Why did you shoot b&w out of one camera and color out if the other? Was it just to have both film types handy in case the situation called for it? But the way, I agree with all of the answers from the above poster Jul 13 14 11:30 am Link Frank Lewis Photography wrote:
Frank Lewis Photography wrote: I like to get my film locally, as I like to support local as much as I can. Not to mention that I need to pay use tax on things I buy online, so it makes a lot of sense to support local and buy things here. Now, that said, I did buy some film in bulk for my France trip from B and H but usually it's a few rolls here and there. Frank Lewis Photography wrote: Your digital camera set in black and white mode makes for a great light meter! Although it does take some of the magic out of it all. Jul 13 14 11:32 am Link The C-41 B+W films are pretty damn good these days, an easy way to get your feet wet (so to speak) since you can take it to a one hour photo lab. Most places offer a CD with images, these files are plenty good enough for online posting and cheap. Get "process only + CD and it should run about $7-8 for a roll. Love Pentax, looking for an MX. I have primes from 24, 28, 40, 50, 100, 200, scored at Goodwill for nearly nothing. Asahi Optical made some great lenses. Jul 13 14 11:33 am Link "I'd recommend a service. There are several you can send your film out to that will scan it for you. They do a lot better work than anyone can at home, but a lot of people scan on flatbed now too." I agree with everything else that this person has said but this. Home scanning can be exceptional at this point even with a relatively inexpensive scanner providing you know how to operate the scanner correctly to get the most out of it. For the absolute pixel peepers then yes, a 20 dollar drum scan of an image will be better than a scan made on say something like an Epson V750 or even their less expensive slower models but with the right settings and levels on the Epson, there will be no night and day difference when not at 100 percent magnification. Many scanning services are using high volume scanners like a fuji sp-3000 like I use at my business. These do great scans but not really any better than a well set up epson flatbed. The difference being only in the speed i can make a high quality scan on the Fuji VS the epson. About 2 seconds vs 3 minutes for the same thing. Home scanning also means that you're in control and not some technician who needs to get a certain volume through in a certain amount of time. If you have the time, learn to scan at home. Jul 13 14 11:37 am Link Sad Movie Photography wrote: Well and how big does the image need to be? There are plenty of nice affordable flatbeds that can create some pretty big files. I don't usually print that large, so for me having something drum scanned would be a waste of money and time. Jul 13 14 11:41 am Link Kodak tri-X is awesome, I love it. I have the epson 750 scanner on my list. Look it up, check it out. So glad to hear another wanting to shoot more film! Awesome. Jul 13 14 11:41 am Link Sad Movie Photography wrote: Ok, well, point taken. I do know of a few services in my area that are less expensive than that though. I dunno... I just never had much luck with home scanning. The equipment always seemed too hard to maintain. I guess maybe it's just not something I'm good at. Jul 13 14 11:43 am Link F-1 Photo wrote: The ZX-30 was fully automatic and did color very well, I just added a polarizer to the lens when needed. The ME Super I always used on manual and usually with a yellow filter. So yes, I could have color and B&W going at the same time. I shot with an ME Super for more than thirty years. Wore one out and had to buy another from a used camera store here in Orlando. Check out my Flickr for a couple of air-to-air shots I did back in the 80s with an ME Super. And my Gold Wing somewhere in Illinois. There's a link on my profile. Jul 13 14 12:20 pm Link Fuji Acros. Best B&W film I've ever used, and I've used almost all that have been made in the last 40 years. Jul 13 14 08:48 pm Link respect the artistic goal...but...seriously...it is over....digital is now way past film and software has put a lid on the coffen Jul 13 14 09:01 pm Link mophotoart wrote: Film is still alive because digital can't reproduce the same image quality. Jul 13 14 10:00 pm Link Since I've gotten back into film (medium and large formats, not 35 though), the best purchase I've made is the Epson V750. I justified it to scan the old slides and negs from my kids growing up but so far only use it for new negs. With a changing bag and light tight tank B&W developing/scanning is a snap, and a lot of fun. I just bought a Jobo CPE2 on impulse, I've enjoyed it so far, but wish I'd shopped around more for a better price, and still need to buy a tank/reel for 4x5. Otherwise, the usual suspects for buying film, Adorama, B&H etc. Jul 14 14 07:21 am Link In my mind, there are two types of film photographers: ... The kind that allows a lab to develop film & make prints, and ... The kind that develops his own film & makes his own prints. It is my belief that digital photography can produce results that are comparable to the lab processed film & print, especially if the film is 35mm & not larger. Since the quality of the results are roughly equal, then digital is faster, easier, cheaper, etc. -- the real question is "why not digital?". I also believe that, in the hands of a skilled craftsman, a film-and-paper print is far superior to a print created digitally, especially if a large or very large negative is used. But that is indeed a time consuming activity -- a day to produce the negatives, a day to create work prints (to see what you've got), and a day to produce a handful of "final" prints from a single negative. And just the material costs (film, paper, chemicals, equipment) can be hundreds (or more) per print (and that's not counting the time). Finally, it takes a hecka lot of practice & study to gain the skills needed to create those top quality images. But sure, the quality can be worth the effort. Speaking personally, I just don't have the eyesight, patience, or stamina needed to work in the darkroom anymore. The darkroom can be very lonely (I used to listen to books on tape). There are still a few film & paper & scanned images in my portfolio:  Coral (18+)  Of course, you can't judge the quality of a print from a digital scan on a computer screen. Film & Paper are all about the quality of a print that hangs on a wall. Jul 14 14 09:09 am Link I looked at the Epson V750 and I can't justify the cost for what I do. When I do buy a scanner it will be much less expensive. Right now I'm trying to track down the binders of negatives I have somewhere here in the house. I want to go back and see what I can scan and print today. Some of my negs go back more than forty years. When I was a member of the CAF and VAC, I shot a lot of air-to-air and some of the airplanes I shot aren't around anymore. Plus some landscapes I shot I'd like to see printed large. Developing my own B&W film and going into the darkroom was some of the most fun I had with photography. I had to rent darkroom space at an art school nearby. That was great because I was able to socialize with many other photographers who shot all kinds of subjects. I miss that. Shooting then processing on the computer is so solitary. The camera should be in hand by Wednesday Jul 14 14 11:13 am Link The OP has nothing to do with digital. There are other threads for that. Thanks. Jul 14 14 11:21 am Link Frank Lewis Photography wrote: If you're sticking to 135, you can pick up inexpensive dedicated scanners by Plustek or Pacific Image. ScanDig has a few reviews here: http://www.filmscanner.info/en/Filmscan … ichte.html Jul 14 14 11:23 am Link My ME Super w/ winder is my workhorse, go-to camera and most of my port was shot using it. I also use the Epson V750 scanner because it will scan a 'wet mount' even though I don't do it as often as I should. I really like the SilverFast software. Images in my port probably aren't a testament to the quality of either camera or scanner since I'm pretty much a bully to my film, forcing exposures and development temps/times (not to mention what I do while scanning it...). At the moment I've been using a lot of Ilford Delta 3200 (even though the ME Super ISO only goes up to 1600) as it tends to not curl as much as the Kodak and I don't have to leave a big, heavy stack of books on it as long to flatten out for my 'dry mount' scans. I buy most of my film local though I do go to Freestyle to buy what I can't here. I develop everything myself. For the cost of sending out and getting contact sheets for 3-4 rolls of film, I can buy everything I need to do it myself. Jul 14 14 11:27 am Link Probably time for a new Paterson tank, reels and chemicals. This is gonna be fun... Jul 14 14 05:51 pm Link mophotoart wrote: That's like saying who needs beautiful handmade furniture when there's ikea. Jul 14 14 06:01 pm Link Frank Lewis Photography wrote: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/ Jul 14 14 06:20 pm Link Frank Lewis Photography wrote: Check Ebay for good used darkroom equipment Jul 14 14 07:20 pm Link If you want to shoot B&W film film there are two routes to go. (1) Is to shoot traditional B&W film. My favorite is Tri-X then process it at home. It is a very forgiving film with a good latitude for exposure. It is easy to push or pull for development.  Kodak Tri-X 400 ISO 35mm x 36 exp. TX $4.67 http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1470764-K … 36-exp.-TX  My personal favorite developer is Kodak HC110 Film Developer 1L $35.99 http://www.freestylephoto.biz/5010541-K … veloper-1L  I use Kodak Rapid Fixer $69.99 http://www.freestylephoto.biz/14641142- … x-5-Gallon  Then after the wash I use Kodak Photo Flo 200 $8.39 http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1464510-K … 200-16-oz. [img]http://www.freestylephoto.biz/static/images/product/919235.jpg[img] I use Arista Stainless Steel 16 oz. Film Developing Tank (PVC top) and two 35mm x 36 exp. $28.99 http://www.freestylephoto.biz/919235-Ar … ping-Tank-(PVC-top)-and-two What I like about this tank setup is that it is fast and easy to use and easy to clean and does not gunk up like plastic reels. One issue doing B&W film is that you can't legally dump fix down the drain you have dispose of it through a company. (2) Is to use a C41 B&W film. The advantage here is you can take it to any color lab to process. They might panic when they see this film just point out it is made for C41 processing.  Kodak BW400CN ISO 35mm x 36 exp. (C-41 Process) $6.99. I have gotten nice results from this film it has a better latitude than color film but not as good as a traditional B&W film. http://www.freestylephoto.biz/8694010-K … x-36-exp.-(C-41-Process)  There is also Ilford XP2 Super 400 ISO 35mm x 36 exp. (C-41 Process) $7.99Jul 14 14 11:01 pm Link As long as the supply of film and developing chemicals are available, film and it's art will still exist. But inevitably, supply and demand will rule the day. There has been a resurgence in film use, encouraging to film suppliers, but how long it will sustain itself is a distant uncertainty. A great indicator is: How many camera manufacturers still produce film cameras today? There are a few, but not that many. Go for it while you can. . Jul 15 14 04:23 pm Link The camera arrived this afternoon and it is really very nice! Very clean and everything works. The seller even included fresh batteries for the motor winder and extra batteries for the camera light meter. I can't wait to run a roll of film through it. This is so gonna be fun!! Jul 16 14 03:12 pm Link Raoul Isidro Images wrote: 15 brands with in production cameras not including Lomo/Holga stuff? Jul 16 14 07:45 pm Link Went out shooting with my new/old camera this morning. I'm shooting Ilford XP2. Took pictures around Orlando. The Beefy King restaurant, then had a sandwich. M-m good. I have a model shoot tomorrow and I'll finish the roll then and have the roll processed and scanned Monday. The resulting images will be posted on my Flickr. Jul 18 14 09:27 am Link Don't make this harder than it really is. I'm in NYC so film is available. If you don't have film near by you can mail order on line from many places. Any of the name brand films will be good whether you choose Ilford, Kodak or whatever, but choose ONE and maybe two ISO speeds to start; say ISO 100 and 400. Don't get side tracked and confused by trying out many different films and speeds, it's best to get to know the characteristics of a film before experimenting with the next. Process your own B/W film. You don't need a darkroom to do this, all you need is a changing bag, developing tank and reel(s), developer, stop bath, and fixer chemistry. Chemistry for B/W is not expensive. Don't listen to people telling you to push or pull development. Shoot your photos and follow manufactures development times and temperatures EXACTLY. The goal is to get as perfect a negative density as possible (which makes printing 1-2-3 easy). After you get the hang of doing this well then you can move onto experimenting with pushing and pulling developments, if you want. For printing a darkroom and enlarger is needed. Learning to print is the only way to control tones and contrast to your taste. Having someone else make your B/W prints will most likely leave you disappointed unless you happen to find a quality print lab that cares. Welcome to the world of the photographic craftsman, where you are a photographer, part scientist, and print technician; satisfaction in the highest form of photographic print quality. Jul 18 14 10:06 am Link mophotoart wrote: Nonsense. Jul 18 14 10:17 am Link "A great indicator is: How many camera manufacturers still produce film cameras today? There are a few, but not that many. " I counted 22 manufacturers currently offering film cameras. The formats include cameras for 35mm and 120 roll films; sheet film cameras from 2-1/4 x 3-1/4 up to 20 x 24 inches. I looked at Adorama, B&H, Badger Graphic Sales and others. Ilford continues to produce a variety of films in all these formats. Other manufacturers also continue to produce film in both color and B&W. Jul 18 14 11:47 am Link FYI, y'all, I home processed my own B&W film for at least 25 years and then rented darkroom space at a local art school to do my printing. I'm no neophyte. I know how to do this, I've pushed and pulled. I've developed cold and I've developed warm, and as I get more proficient I will be home processing my B&W film again then have the negatives scanned. I don't care to dedicate a room in my house to use as a darkroom but I do want to develop my own film again. I just need to decide: do I want to shoot on Ilford of shoot on Kodak. I am enamored with 400 speed film it's just which one do I want to use. Jul 18 14 07:22 pm Link Well, I finished my first roll of B&W film today. I'll get it processed Monday. It just occurred to me though, after the film is scanned and saved to cd and hard drives for storage, should I keep the film? What's the protocol here? Jul 19 14 04:08 pm Link fullmetalphotographer wrote: You forgot stop bath. Jul 19 14 05:23 pm Link Alabaster Crowley wrote: I never use acetic acid (indicator) stop baths with film. It can introduce pinholes in the emulsion. I only use water, and within 5 degrees of the developer's temperature so as to prevent reticulation. Jul 19 14 07:08 pm Link Tony-S wrote: This. Jul 19 14 07:29 pm Link I no longer use commercial stop bath. I switched to vinegar from the local grocery and use it quite diluted. A plain water bath also works well. also, I have standardized to Ilford films and chemistry. http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/pro … hite+Films Jul 19 14 07:55 pm Link Alabaster Crowley wrote: H20 is my stop bath for film. Jul 20 14 06:38 pm Link How do you all dispose of used chemistry? Jul 21 14 10:51 am Link |
