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4C 41 42 wrote: WOW... sounds like you got a pretty sweet deal there. I have seven M11 heads that I use in a variety of applications... THEY ROCK! I personally think Speedotron 'Brown Line' is the best value in studio lighting. Here's Nicole lit up by three Speedo heads in the SM studio... Jan 05 09 09:47 am Link 4C 41 42 wrote: Select Models wrote: Assuming everything works as described, I think I did. I do love auctions that close on saturday or sunday afternoons when most people don't seem to be paying attention. Esnipe is a godsend too. :: wringing hands with evil grin :: Jan 05 09 10:04 am Link former_mm_user wrote: Profoto is from Sweden. All equip, that is imported, from Europe, is costly. Jan 05 09 11:05 am Link I use and have an extensive amount of Profoto, Speedotron Black Line and Dynalite packs - heads and modifiers, as well as PhotoG monolights. While there are some advantages to Profoto, I've stopped invetsing into it except for ring lights and power for them. The Speedotron is considerably more reliable. Except for modeling light circuitry I've never had s failure. There are less modifiers made by Speedotron but I don't use either companies softboxes and have everything I need in metal from Speedotron. There are some disadvantages to Speedos vs Profoto. They are not asynchronous, not as adjustable, can't get them with receivers built in. And Profoto may have shorter flash durations with standard heads (not 100% sure). But like I said they are more reliable, have better customer service, will give you schematics if you wish to modify, and cheaper. If I needed any of the advantages that Profoto has, I'd still be buying them. I used to be more vested in Profoto before the Explorer came out. It has a bit less power than a 7B pack but I love the units and have stopped using the 7Bs all together. You can get almost 3 of them for the same price too, and they travel better. I may have a couple PF ring lights rewired to use with Speedo packs and if I do, I'll be done with PF. If Speedo had a 8 stop monolight I'd be done with Photogenic too. Dynalites are awesomely small. But at least for me, its a special purpose setup. I use them petty much exlusively on booms. You won't go wrong with Speedotron Black Line. And if you think you did, you can recover 80% or so of the cost on Ebay. And the beauty dish with ts accessories is my favorite at any price. Also, if you want to learn more before or after purchase you'll find the engineering department very willing to work directly with you. Jan 05 09 11:36 am Link What's wrong with you guys?? This thread is from 06' the OP's not here anymore. However, I use speedo's  Jan 05 09 11:46 am Link Holix wrote: Sorry for bringing it back to life but it was such a great read. So did I get a good deal? 4 packs $2000 2 2043's and 2 2401's ? Ebay. Jan 05 09 12:00 pm Link I've used Speedotron for almost 35 years. Some of my heads are about that old and the only thing I have to replace periodically are tubes and modeling lamps. The stuff is damn near indestructible. However, at full power on a 2400 WS pack, the flash duration is about 1/30th of a second. If you shoot anything moving, it needs to be moving very slow, because Speedotron will never freeze motion. Even when you have the pack dialed down to it's lowest power output, it doesn't come close to Profoto flash speed. Jan 05 09 12:07 pm Link Natalie Photography wrote: Modern packs have safe connectors that connect, disconnect safely. The above can happen with older packs or poorly-designed packs. Although modern stuff is safe to connect/disconnect while 'hot' many seasoned photographers will still turn off the pack before moving connectors. Jan 05 09 12:10 pm Link Steve A Photography wrote: Last time I checked, the 2403's are going for about $500 on ebay. Jan 05 09 12:20 pm Link I've used my Speedo 1205 for three years. It was bought used and was a rental unit. It has NEVER given me a bit of trouble. I leave it in the trunk of my car and carry it to indoor location shoots. Almost all the pictures on my profile were shot with it and three heads. No Complaints and wish I could fine another at the right price. Jan 05 09 12:29 pm Link glamour pics wrote: Turn off, unplug, and NEVER cross the streams. LOL Jan 05 09 12:31 pm Link Warren Leimbach wrote: That's good then I got 4 packs for 2000 so I may have did ok. I now need about 5-10 light heads. What's better 102a or 202 ? Also what is the diffrence with the 102a or the 102cc ? Jan 05 09 12:40 pm Link Steve A Photography wrote: No problemo Steve Jan 05 09 12:41 pm Link I love my Explorer 1500. For a location shooter like me, it is great! Jan 05 09 12:50 pm Link I will second third and fourth the praise of the brownline. I have 2 D-402 units and 8 heads. They have never misfired, or otherwise failed to work. Just make sure you buy the surge protector from Speedotron. That goes between the supply and your wireless receiver. That prtects the unit from the high trigger voltage of the power pack. I use Microsync's with mine hand have never had the first problem. I use mostly Profoto softboxes with my heads. I have to say it's the best bang for the buck out there. Keep a close eye on eBay. I have less that $200 in my total lighting setup and it all came from the 'bay. If you have any questions about any of my setups or the packs/lights feel free to drop me an email. Nick Jan 05 09 01:00 pm Link Power Supplies General Instructions  Although Speedotron power supplies vary in power and features, they all operate under the same principles. The following instructions apply to both the Black Line and Brown Line series. For maximum equipment life and for safe, dependable operation of power supplies, we advise you to follow these general rules: * Unpack equipment carefully. Examine all packing material. Should you notice any breakage or defect, notify the dealer and carrier (if shipped to you) immediately. Please read all instructions before assembling your flash system in order to avoid damage to your equipment or injury to yourself. * Before doing anything with the power supply make sure that the Model and Power switches are in the off position and the Reset button (circuit breaker) is fully depressed into its socket. * Connect light units to the outlet(s) on the power supply before connecting power to power supply. Selecting the appropriate outlets for the desired power level. (Refer to the diagrams on the side of the power supply.) To connect light units: Black Line- Align the light unit plug with the power supply outlet and apply even pressure while pushing. Make sure that all light unit cables are firmly seated. Brown Line- Align the light unit plug with the power supply outlet and apply even pressure while pushing. Black colored light unit connectors are of the "quick release" type that only require pushing the connector firmly until it is fully seated. Silvery colored light unit connectors must be threaded until they are fully seated. Both types prevent accidental cable removal. Make sure all light unit cables are firmly seated to prevent connector damage. * Make sure cables are out of pathways or are taped to the floor to prevent accidentally disconnecting cables from power supply. * Never connect or disconnect a light unit while the power supply is turned on. Never insert or remove flash tubes while the light unit is connected to the power supply. Be sure flash tubes are fully seated into light unit sockets. * Always make sure your Model and Power switches are off when disconnecting or connecting light units. Speedotron power supplies are equipped with arc-protected outlets. However, as with any electrical equipment, arc-over (an electrical discharge between two physically disconnected electrical terminals) is a possibility. When light cables, flash tubes or power cords are improperly seated, arc-over may occur. Also, if your light unit or power supply malfunctions, or the power cord or the internal wiring in the studio is improperly terminated or defective, there is a chance of arc-over. Severe power supply damage and operator injury may result if arc-over occurs. * Plug sync cord (1/4" mono or AC twin-blade type) into Sync socket and connect other end to the flash sync connector on your camera. A slave tripper (Speedotron #23510) may be installed in the Sync socket to fire the power supply. If the slave tripper fails to trigger the power supply when another flash fires, remove the slave, rotate it 180° and reinstall it in the socket. * Connect AC power cord into Power Input on power supply. Always use a three-wire ground power cord and a properly grounded wall outlet with all Speedotron power supplies. Failure to do so may cause the power supply to intermittently misfire. Do not use a three prong-to-two prong "ground eliminator" adapter. * Once the light units are properly assembled and installed, the power cord is installed and the sync extension is connected, turn the Power switch on. Do not immediately fire the unit on the first use or when the unit has been idle for periods over 3 weeks. Allow several minutes for the power supply's capacitors to form. Once this procedure has been followed at these times, subsequent use of the power supply requires no waiting period. Note: It is recommended that the user turns on the power supply for about 10 to 20 minutes each month. This simple procedure prevents premature failure by maintaining the "elasticity" of the capacitors. * Ready/Push to Flash button may be depressed to verify proper system operation. * When Power is on, be sure Ready/Push to Flash indicator is illuminated before switching Power, Combine/Isolate, or Fast/Slow (available on select models) controls. Do not move these switches while the unit is recycling. * Each power supply's unique features are fully explained in the product manual. * Never attempt to make repairs to your Speedotron equipment. All electronic flash systems operate on high voltage and power. It is very dangerous to open a power supply.  Power Ratios Speedotron lighting equipment is capable of symmetrical (all light units receiving the same amount of light) or asymmetrical (ratioed) power distribution. Controlling distribution is as easy as flipping a switch. Each power supply is divided into two or three channels with different levels of power. These channels may be joined for even (symmetrical) output to all outlets or separated for unequal (asymmetrical) output to a set of outlets in one or more channels. Power distribution charts are provided in the manual and on the side of each power supply. When we refer to ratioing, we are describing the levels of power output from the power supply to the light units only. These power output ratios do not mean that the light falling on the subject will be at that same ratio. This will only occur if the light units are the same and have the same flash tube, reflector, cable length, light control accessories, are at the same distance to the subject, and there is no overlap of lighting on the subject, etc. Power output ratios are only offered as a guide to help you determine your lighting arrangements.  Light Units General Instructions * Unpack and examine all equipment carefully. Should you notice any breakage or defect, notify your dealer (and carrier if it was shipped) immediately. The flash tube(s) and model lamp(s) are packed in their original cartons. This affords sufficient protection and reduces the incidence of breakage during shipping. Make sure all packing materials are removed before using. This includes pipe cleaners (used as packing material) inside flash tubes. * Install model lamp and flash tubes. Always handle lamps and flash tubes with care. Avoid touch the bulbs with bare hand due to the grease from skin could cause uneven heat distribution on the bulb surface and thus shorten the bulb life. If your fingers come in contact with the glass of the model lamp, wipe off carefully with alcohol. * Bulbs could become hot after use. Wear gloves or use cloth cover when handling bulbs. Allow lamps to cool before handling. * When removing or replacing lamps and tubes, always disconnect light units from power supply. * Never connect or disconnect light units while power is on. Do not insert or remove flash tubes or model lamps while power is on. * Flash tubes must be inserted into the sockets all the way. A slight rocking motion may be necessary when installing the larger flash tubes. New flash tubes and sockets fit very tightly. Be sure all flash tubes and model lamps are fully seated into light unit sockets. * It is important to observe the maximum watt-seconds rating of these light units. Never subject a flash tube to more watt-seconds than it is designed to handle. All Speedotron Black Line flash tubes are designed to accept a minimum of 2400Ws. All Brown Line light units can handle at least 400 watt-seconds, and specific units are designed for a maximum of 1200 or 1600 watt-seconds. For power supplies that can produce more than 400Ws of power, you must be very careful that the flash tube you are using in your light unit can handle all the available power. Never subject a flash tube to more watt-seconds than it is designed to handle. If you are not sure that your flash tube can handle the power provided by the set-up you are using, check the technical specifications of the light unit in addition to the Power Distribution Chart on the side of your power supply. We recommend that you purchase at least one light unit that will accept the full output of the power supply. * Light units come with a 5/8" light stand mount. The umbrella bracket is drilled to accept 3/8" diameter umbrella shafts (must be used with 7" umbrella reflector). * Install the desired reflector into the light unit. Align the round notches on the reflector with the nylon buttons on the light unit, then twist firmly clockwise, (viewed from front and insuring that reflector assembly is bottomed on mounting socket) approximately 1/4 of a turn. This should securely mount the reflector into the light unit housing. * Turn on power supply, wait for Ready light, then press Push to Flash button to verify proper operation. At this time, if you have a fan cooled unit, the fan should be operating. The model lamp is controlled by the Model switch at the power supply. Some light units also have a Model switch on the top or side of the light unit. * For maximum performance and tube life, the model lamp should be used only when necessary and turned off after initial set-up or focusing is done. Although the forced air cooling is more than ample for normal usage, turning off the model lamp will eliminate heat and enable the light to run cooler, extending the life of all components. * After extended use, inspect flash tubes for cracks and any unusual darkening (arc-over) around the plugs. This is particularly important for multi-tube flash lights. If cracks or darkening are noted the flash tube is, most likely, near the end of its duty cycle. Cracked tubes will probably misfire. The normal life expectancy is 100,000 flashes for the majority of Speedotron Black Line flash tubes. * Be sure replacement flash tubes are designed for the watt-second output requirements of Speedotron light units. Never subject a flash tube to more watt-seconds than it is designed to handle. Applying too much power severely shortens the life of flash tubes, may cause fine cracks to develop in the tube that may cause tube failure or, in the most extreme case, may cause a tube to shatter. For this reason, we suggest you always use Speedotron flash tubes and model lamps to insure safe and dependable operation.  General Maintenance and Care All Speedotron equipment is ruggedly built. Nevertheless, it should be treated with the same care given to other pieces of quality photographic equipment. To protect the user, all Speedotron equipment is designed to be safe when used in accordance with instructions. To assure the maximum in safe, dependable service, the following guidelines should be carefully observed. * Avoid kinking or pulling cables. Disconnect cables by pulling on the plug only. Never pull plugs out by the cable. Light cables as well as sync cords and AC power cords should be occasionally checked for wear, cracks, separation between cable and plug, and for indications of arc-over. * Do not wrap the light unit cables around the light units. Coiling cables tightly stresses the internal wires and may lead to premature cable failure. If possible, keep the coil diameter at least 10 inches. * If a cable becomes frayed, the insulation damaged, or the connectors bent or broken, have them repaired immediately. * Keep all connectors, plugs and sockets free of dust, moisture and corrosion. * Do not connect or disconnect light units or insert or remove flash tubes while the power supply is on. * When using your equipment, be sure all cable, sync, power and flash tube connections are completely and properly installed. * Do not attempt to make repairs to your Speedotron equipment yourself. It is very dangerous, and will void your warranty. Consult your dealer regarding authorized service in your area, or return the equipment to Speedotron. When you are not using your equipment, it is recommended that you store it in a dry place. Equipment should be charged up and flashed a few times at least once a month. This will keep your equipment in top working condition for many years. * With your light unit disconnected, occasionally remove the reflector and clean the interior surface with a light solvent or soap and water. Carefully remove the flash tube, and clean the glass cover. Only in this way will you conserve a consistent color temperature and light output. Dirt and dust deposits on the tube and reflector act like a filter to alter color. * To extend the life of the model lamp, it should be turned off after set-up and focusing.  Sorry for the long post. Just there was too much info. Jan 05 09 01:10 pm Link I love my Blackline for studio work. I've used my Speedo's for years. I have @ 8 packs and 20+ 102A,202 heads. The only issue is they are very heavy.I'm Doing more and more location work so I'm slowly building up my Profoto gear. You can't go wrong with Speedotron they are the work horse of the industry. http://breganphoto.blogspot.com/ Jan 05 09 01:24 pm Link Steve A Photography wrote: A PDF with diagrams can be downloaded from the Speedotron.com site. There are guides for the lights, monolights, and packs. Jan 05 09 05:44 pm Link Robert Randall wrote: I agree that some of the flash durations can be a bit slow, but not quite THAT slow. The slowest combo, using conventional heads, is the 206 head at 4800ws with a duration of 1/175. The 102 at 2400ws is 1/225. The 105 head at 4800ws is 1/600 and at 2400ws is 1/1175. So there are some reasonable full power options. Jan 05 09 06:03 pm Link Proud Speedo user since 2003. After working for 5 years with speedos at another studio, I opened my own studio a year ago and invested in Speedos for my main studio strobes. I ended up selling my elinchromes to invest in a couple explorer packs for on location. I love them. Reliable, built like a tank. They are a little heavy but that's just details. The line up 1-2403cx pack 2- explorer packs 6 -102 heads 1 - empty wallet Jan 05 09 06:27 pm Link Natalie Photography wrote: I bet you only do that once.... Jan 05 09 07:07 pm Link Bob Wiedmeyer wrote: The smaller Speedo packs (805/1205) are comparable to most other packs in that range. Heavier than most, but not by as much as they're often made out to be: Jan 05 09 09:35 pm Link Warren Leimbach wrote: If you have a mix of coated & uncoated tubes, use the coated tubes on Jan 05 09 10:17 pm Link Speedo 2403CX user here. I have 5x102 heads and am in the process of buying 2x202 heads and a 1205 pack. The used prices on this gear makes it a steal Jan 05 09 11:04 pm Link everything in my port was shot with speedotron black line they run forever Jan 05 09 11:07 pm Link I work at a community college. We have Profoto gear and it is constantly being sent in for repair. The problem students don't handle anything with care (it's not theirs so why care). I know we are professionals but, based on my experience Profoto needs more TLC than Speedotrons. Students always find a way to break things in new ways that I have never seen before. Jan 05 09 11:22 pm Link Mine packs are comming today  can't wait.Jan 07 09 07:19 am Link Robert Randall wrote: What heads are you using? The 202s flash at 1/300 at 2400ws, or is that what you meant instead of 1/30th? Jan 07 09 07:38 am Link Jarrad Kevin wrote: Normally I wouldn't argue the point, but if you personally are experiencing those numbers, you are either very lucky, or you're using equipment other than Speedotron. And if you're getting your numbers from an official Speedotron publication, instead, try using a Quantum Instruments Calcu-Flash II in concert with an oscilloscope for unbiased feedback on your units. You'll find the the Speedo numbers are just a dream. Jan 07 09 07:55 am Link Curious what you Speedotron users feel about the 103 heads? I'm thinking of getting them over the 102/202 because they use convection cooling instead of fans and I'd like to buy them since I plan to someday take my rig on location with an Explorer -- the lack of fans save energy on the road. Is there some major flaw in their design otherwise or something to look out for? Obviously I will not fire them at 1:1 100s of times in rapid succession... Jan 07 09 08:16 am Link Robert Randall wrote: I just took delivery of the set I described on page one, and even with the naked eye I can tell the flash duration is much longer on it's highest setting than the lowest. At half or full power, a sharp picture of a model in mid-jump probably isn't going to happen. For what I paid, I'm not going to complain. Jan 07 09 08:25 am Link Kevin Connery wrote: Actually, the only manual I see on the site is for the Explorer 1500. No manuals for any of the other power packs or light heads. Jan 07 09 08:27 am Link I got a small Speedtron brownline setup -- it's nearly 20 years old. I never had any problems with it (other than frying a cheap digital camera -- the camrea's manufacturer did warn me not to connect the camera to an external flash unit). Other than replacing burned out model lights, it's been no problem. Some notes: I got a lower end unit, because my studio setup is small-ish. I figure that if I'm using my lens' optimal aperture on typical setups, I've got enough power. If I had a bigger space, I'd need more power. There are a few features I would want to see, that the brownline unit doesn't have: 1) A quicker way to connect flash heads to the power unit. 2) A way to set the relative power going to each head separately. 3) I wish there were reasonable priced spotlight or ringlight flash heads available. Other than that -- it is my experience that these things are tanks. That means that obtaining used units are a viable alternative. Jan 07 09 08:41 am Link Looknsee Photography wrote: Exactly the same scenario here... smaller sized studio. Maximum flash to subject distance is usually 15 feet or less. The Speedo 400 and 600ws power supplies I've got still pump out more than enough light as I'm usually stopping down to at least F11 at ISO 100... Jan 07 09 08:53 am Link I have a Speedotron Blackline 2403B (2400 watt seconds) set up with three 102 heads. I love it! I had a second set up with the 2403CX, but sold it a few years back. I'm kicking around the idea of finding another 2403B with three more 102 heads. But I'm kinda retired now... but still play around. I currently have the 2403B and use it with my Photogenic Monolights. I have six of these. Two 1250's one 650 and three smaller monolights that put out 250 watt seconds for fill lights or whatever. My Speedotron Blackline 2403B with the three 102 heads is what I use most! Again, I love it! Jan 07 09 08:58 am Link 4C 41 42 wrote: I started my career with job number 760001, in 1976. I am currently on job number 087638, and I can't tell you how many millions of flashes that correlates to. Think of a room scene early in my career in which I didn't have as many packs as I do now, and I was shooting 8X10 at F45. The bracket in terms of flashes would have been something like 30, 40, 60, 90, this after a set of polaroids. Multiply that by maybe 10 to 50 images per job, and you get a sense of how many times I've tripped a shutter, with Speedos on the other end for just about every single shot. You can hardly break them if you throw them out a 5 story high window. I have heads and packs in my studio that still work on a daily basis that I've owned since 1976, and 1 pack I bought used. Jan 07 09 09:02 am Link Robert Randall wrote: Yo Robert... I think we all got the gist of your message on the 'stop action' stuff... but I don't think there's alot of us who have bullet trains speeding through the studios... Jan 07 09 09:10 am Link Steve A Photography wrote: The proud papa. Jan 07 09 09:29 am Link Just throwing this out there... I have 3 Speedoton packs I'd like to get rid of. All are in prefect condition (even buying new power cords for them). I have (2) D1604's and a D1204. I assume they are Brownline since they are brown (lol). Any interest? Make an offer. I'm shipping from Northern California so keep that in mind. VPsteve Jan 07 09 10:09 am Link VP Photography wrote: You should start a thread in MM Market. Jan 07 09 10:12 am Link |
