Forums > Digital Art and Retouching > Adding objects to a background?

Photographer

Jeff Craig Photography

Posts: 373

Huntington Beach, California, US

I have been looking for online tutorials and have had no luck. I have seen a lot of Photographers and Photoshop Wizards on here with really interesting images. They have planes flying in the background or nuclear explosions going off. I have tried just finding stock photos and adding it to an image, but there is a step or two I am missing that allows the said plane or nuclear explosion to blend in with the background making it look more realistic and part of the image as a whole. I'd be very grateful to anyone who can offer help. Here are a few examples.

https://modelmayhm-3.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/080625/22/4863037ef181e_m.jpg

https://modelmayhm-6.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/090312/18/49b9b67e928c4_m.jpg

https://modelmayhm-4.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/090831/10/4a9c069121985_m.jpg

Oct 22 09 03:11 pm Link

Retoucher

9stitches

Posts: 476

Los Angeles, California, US

Lighting, scale/perspective, and focus.

EDIT:

My answer wasn't intended to be smartass, or blow you off. You need to fill in your own blanks with what you know about photography, Photoshop and images in general. There are no specific rules that will work in every (or even most) situation(s).

I'm assuming you know how to drag an image element into a new layer and mask it. The points I mentioned are the pitfalls you need to watch out for. They're different for every image.

If you take each one of the points I mentioned, and apply it to each potential object you'd like to composite into a new background, you will have to think, but you will teach yourself how to do this.

Keep in mind which things you have nearly-absolute control over (scale, color, and usually focus), and things you have limited control over (lighting and perspective). This will help you weed out candidates for compositing that are unworkable, or too difficult. You can blur things that are too sharp, you can shrink things that are too big, but you can't make something photographed from above look like it was photographed from below. You may be able to cheat perspective, but not completely rearrange it.

Give yourself a little more credit that you can try this, fail, fail a little less the next time, succeed a little more the next time, etc. etc.

Oct 22 09 03:55 pm Link

Photographer

neoracer

Posts: 763

Kent, Washington, US

Yea if your using stock photo it helps to have it match the lighting, or you can kinda fake it yourself by using Filters>Render>Lighting Effects but be subtle or set the lay opacity to help get the effect..many many other tricks you can do with layer settings and straight up manipulation

Oct 22 09 04:05 pm Link

Artist/Painter

E Clark 2

Posts: 834

Hamilton, Ohio, US

What they said plus adding them in as different layers and adjusting the pieces seperately. A few airshows over the summer were enough to find my own shots for stock.

https://modelmayhm-9.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/090825/20/4a94b2d6d150c_m.jpg

https://modelmayhm-9.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/090920/17/4ab6c76927dc1_m.jpg

Oct 22 09 04:15 pm Link

Photographer

Jeff Craig Photography

Posts: 373

Huntington Beach, California, US

Any tutorials? Pictures? Three words of what to do wont solve my problem. If I could get it that easily, I would have gotten it on my own.

Oct 22 09 05:04 pm Link

Retoucher

Peano

Posts: 4106

Lynchburg, Virginia, US

JDiz Photography wrote:
Any tutorials? Pictures? Three words of what to do wont solve my problem. If I could get it that easily, I would have gotten it on my own.

Tutorials can convey the techniques for masking, etc., but there are other aspects that aren't a matter of technique. Here are a few (I = image, P = pasted-in element) that will create problems:

-  The light in I is from the top right; P was lighted from the left.

-  I was shot in daylight, P was shot under incandescent light.

-  P was exposed at such and such; I was exposed differently.

-  The color saturation of P is noticeably different from the saturation of P.

-  I is sharply focused with a good lens, P isn't (or vice versa).

-  The noise level in I is higher/lower than the noise level in P.

It takes a certain amount of practice to learn to see these differences and take them into account. If a tutorial showed you examples of all these differences (and others), and showed you how to fix or avoid them, that would be helpful. It's a visual thing. I can only give you words in this case.

Oct 22 09 05:18 pm Link

Photographer

Jeff Craig Photography

Posts: 373

Huntington Beach, California, US

Peano wrote:

Tutorials can convey the techniques for masking, etc., but there are other aspects that aren't a matter of technique. Here are a few (I = image, P = pasted-in element) that will create problems:

-  The light in I is from the top right; P was lighted from the left.

-  I was shot in daylight, P was shot under incandescent light.

-  P was exposed at such and such; I was exposed differently.

-  The color saturation of P is noticeably different from the saturation of P.

-  I is sharply focused with a good lens, P isn't (or vice versa).

-  The noise level in I is higher/lower than the noise level in P.

It takes a certain amount of practice to learn to see these differences and take them into account. If a tutorial showed you examples of all these differences (and others), and showed you how to fix or avoid them, that would be helpful. It's a visual thing. I can only give you words in this case.

You are pointing out the exact problem I am having. I would like to see a video tutorial on how they determined the lighting diference and how they fixed it to make it look realistic...

Oct 23 09 12:44 am Link

Photographer

Pelle Piano

Posts: 2312

Stockholm, Stockholm, Sweden

If objects have the light coming from the wrong direction, you can at times flip the image horisontally. In this image the helicopter has light coming from the right, so it fits with the light of the buildings and the bridge.The original had the sunny part facing the bridge which was not believable so a flip helped.

Because of the angle of the helicopter shot , the only logical placement is high in the sky.

Also the color of the helicopter ( as many other items ) did not mactch the sunset colors of the background. Then you can use a Warming filter on the overall image to get them to match better, or add som yellows to the helicopter only.

https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3597/3326657864_8fbc078b1a_o.jpg

Oct 23 09 01:18 am Link

Retoucher

Daniel Meadows

Posts: 794

Manchester, England, United Kingdom

This is a work in progress, client requested a pirate theme.

https://img5.imageshack.us/img5/1075/shipsj.jpg

You can see I've spent the most time on the foreground ship, followed by the chest. The composition is off because the model is yet to be comped into foreground left.

https://img11.imageshack.us/img11/2114/shipchest.jpg

I favoured elements against lighter backgrounds and used multiply blending to avoid the pen tool. There's a stack of adjustment layers above each element, I can't honestly advise you here, if you can see roughly what you need to do to to make it fit it's a good start. Experiment until you know how every adjustment layer will affect your elements.

Note how the raised mounds of sand cover the chest and the shadow to the right of it. Don't forget that anything you add to a photograph alters its environment. Last week I saw an image of fireworks above a river which bore no reflections.

You'll find tutorials on how to slap an image onto another background all over the internet, but you're looking for how to do it well. The answer is unfortunately a million bits of wisdom from posts as long as this one, coupled with practice and a solid knowledge of Adobe Photoshop. One day it'll start to click and you'll never need a tutorial again.

Perhaps you could post what you're working on?

Oct 23 09 01:54 am Link

Retoucher

Peano

Posts: 4106

Lynchburg, Virginia, US

D Meadows wrote:
This is a work in progress, client requested a pirate theme.

You can see I've spent the most time on the foreground ship, followed by the chest. The composition is off because the model is yet to be comped into foreground left.

This is nice work. I'd suggest a couple of tweaks on the chest. The pearls, etc., are white, but whites elsewhere in the image (the breaking waves) have a warm cast. So I would add that cast to the treasure in the chest and also put the right side of the chest a bit more in shadow.

https://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9326/treasure.gif

Oct 23 09 07:11 am Link

Digital Artist

Koray

Posts: 6720

Ankara, Ankara, Turkey

best approach is to admit that it will never look as real as the real thing.
that said I always use a bit of match color to prepare the subject to its new environment.

Oct 23 09 07:37 am Link

Retoucher

Peano

Posts: 4106

Lynchburg, Virginia, US

Koray wrote:
best approach is to admit that it will never look as real as the real thing.
that said I always use a bit of match color to prepare the subject to its new environment.

That's generally true, but there are exceptions. I recently fixed a group picture for a photographer. He had taken several shots in succession within a few seconds -- same lighting, same exposure, etc. A couple of people had their eyes closed in one shot, so I transplanted their faces with eyes open from another shot. I don't think anyone would spot those changes.

Oct 23 09 07:53 am Link

Retoucher

Natalia_Taffarel

Posts: 7665

Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina

JDiz Photography wrote:
You are pointing out the exact problem I am having. I would like to see a video tutorial on how they determined the lighting diference and how they fixed it to make it look realistic...

And I want to see a tutorial about how to create a render of a face because knowing very little about CGI or 3D modeling I can't seem to get it right! How do they do it???

If you don't see the irony in my request you have bigger problems.

Nobody can teach you EYE and practice.

Every answer in here has been really helpful and to the point, you just want to be spoon feed.

Practice and get the eye to make it work. Period.

Good luck to you
x

Oct 23 09 08:08 am Link

Retoucher

Daniel Meadows

Posts: 794

Manchester, England, United Kingdom

Peano wrote:
This is nice work. I'd suggest a couple of tweaks on the chest. The pearls, etc., are white, but whites elsewhere in the image (the breaking waves) have a warm cast. So I would add that cast to the treasure in the chest and also put the right side of the chest a bit more in shadow.

Already done, the difficult part came with the model's image. A 92kb jpeg :'(

Oct 23 09 11:00 am Link

Photographer

Jeff Craig Photography

Posts: 373

Huntington Beach, California, US

You responses have been helpful. I will see what I can do I guess...still wish I could see it in action

Oct 23 09 11:19 am Link

Photographer

MacLeod Designs

Posts: 3309

Mooresville, North Carolina, US

JDiz Photography wrote:
You responses have been helpful. I will see what I can do I guess...still wish I could see it in action

seeing it in action will not help you, it will bedone with different elements that have different problems, it wont transfer to what you are doing unless you are doing the EXACT same thing...

Oct 23 09 11:41 am Link

Digital Artist

Koray

Posts: 6720

Ankara, Ankara, Turkey

D Meadows wrote:
This is a work in progress, client requested a pirate theme.

https://img5.imageshack.us/img5/1075/shipsj.jpg

You can see I've spent the most time on the foreground ship, followed by the chest. The composition is off because the model is yet to be comped into foreground left.

https://img11.imageshack.us/img11/2114/shipchest.jpg

I favoured elements against lighter backgrounds and used multiply blending to avoid the pen tool. There's a stack of adjustment layers above each element, I can't honestly advise you here, if you can see roughly what you need to do to to make it fit it's a good start. Experiment until you know how every adjustment layer will affect your elements.

Note how the raised mounds of sand cover the chest and the shadow to the right of it. Don't forget that anything you add to a photograph alters its environment. Last week I saw an image of fireworks above a river which bore no reflections.

You'll find tutorials on how to slap an image onto another background all over the internet, but you're looking for how to do it well. The answer is unfortunately a million bits of wisdom from posts as long as this one, coupled with practice and a solid knowledge of Adobe Photoshop. One day it'll start to click and you'll never need a tutorial again.

Perhaps you could post what you're working on?

I just saw the final image in the models portfolio...not bad big_smile

Oct 24 09 10:02 am Link

Photographer

Sean Baker Photo

Posts: 8044

San Antonio, Texas, US

Natalia_Taffarel wrote:
And I want to see a tutorial about how to create a render of a face because knowing very little about CGI or 3D modeling I can't seem to get it right! How do they do it???

One of my favorites:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSJniSdHs1g

There are similar ones for using Blender (free), though the interface doesn't appear to be as advanced.  Price is better, though wink.

Oct 24 09 10:53 am Link

Retoucher

Daniel Meadows

Posts: 794

Manchester, England, United Kingdom

Koray wrote:
I just saw the final image in the models portfolio...not bad big_smile

Coming from you Koray, that's made my night. It's only absent from my portfolio for the aforementioned 92kb jpeg issue, it took a long time to get that model to look even that integrated into the background.

Oct 24 09 03:52 pm Link

Retoucher

Natalia_Taffarel

Posts: 7665

Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina

SRB Photo wrote:

One of my favorites:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSJniSdHs1g

There are similar ones for using Blender (free), though the interface doesn't appear to be as advanced.  Price is better, though wink.

Again... how????

wink

Oct 24 09 04:16 pm Link