Forums > Photography Talk > Focus stacking & Exposure stacking?

Photographer

Mad Hatter Imagery

Posts: 1669

Buffalo, New York, US

I use Paintshop Pro and I guess only the 2023 version introduced an automated focus stacking tool. It feels like Photoshop must of introduced that type of tool a while back?

Is there a manual way to focus stack?

Is there a way to automatically turn over and under exposed parts of images into transparency regions so images can be layered onto one another giving an overall well exposed image versus a method that requires brush stroking?

Aug 30 23 08:17 pm Link

Photographer

Shadow Dancer

Posts: 9777

Bellingham, Washington, US

It will be much easier to answer your question if you provide more information. Specifically, are you shooting stationary objects or things that are in motion? Indoors or outdoors? Available light or studio lighting?

Without that information, everything is a guess at best.

Aug 30 23 09:13 pm Link

Photographer

Studio NSFW

Posts: 761

Pacifica, California, US

Capture One  also has focus stacking, has had it for at least the last two versions.  So far as doing it manually…there’s a fair amount of algorithmic math going on to get results…same thing with image stitching, but even more with focus stacking. If someone is doing it manually, or knows how, I personally cannot imagine bothering to do it that way…generally its not something I think would be used much for people photography but architecture and landscape and product photography all seem to be good areas for it.

So far as “automatically selecting areas of over and under exposure, then adjusting with a brush” ….Capture one has smart masks that you could use to do it that way (or use them with hues, which would be more how I might approach that) but for what you are describing, i generally would just manipulate the Highlight and Shadow sliders to achieve that.  My camera sensor has a15 stop dynamic range (and a light meter!) so as long as I am exposing correctly for the highlights, I can usually putt shadow detail up for wherever I want.

Overexposed areas are just “Blown out” with digital…you cannot really make detail come back that was overwhelmed with too much light, 

But proper metering and evaluation of a scene, and trying to keep it or get it into a seven stop range like ol’ Ansel  Adams did , means a lot  less time in post fixing things that should/could have been done correctly in camera…and if you are going to take a “Fix it in the mix” approach….might be time to take advantage of a free trial and a few tutorials for Capture One.  It does all these things and a lot more. It’s not perfect and only slightly cheaper than Photoshop, but it’s really a great tool set for the whole workflow….and it is still possible to get a perpetual license (although perpetual licenses are now “Feature Frozen” like Paint Shop Pro is (I am guessing you are asking how to do this manually because you don’t want to pony up for an upgrade license from a previous version.)

If saving money on an editor is what is driving the question, many online tutorials claim that it is possible to do focus stacking with The GIMP.  Neve pr tried it, I licensed Capture One years back when I certified for Phase One and paid for discounted upgrades every 2 versions since.  Not cheap but good tools seldom are.

Aug 31 23 07:06 am Link

Photographer

TaiChiJohn

Posts: 52

New York, New York, US

Helicon Focus is a program that is dedicated to focus stacking. The company that makes this product is located in Ukraine and has been reliably directing donations toward first responders there.

Aug 31 23 07:45 am Link

Photographer

Mark Salo

Posts: 11726

Olney, Maryland, US

Afinity Photo has a Focus merging (focus stacking) feature. I haven't tried it since I do focus stacking in camera with my Olympus.

"Is there a way to automatically turn over and under exposed parts of images into transparency regions so images can be layered onto one another giving an overall well exposed image versus a method that requires brush stroking?"

Have you tried deleting the poorly exposed files and then apply the focus stacking?

BTW In a rapid fire series of exposures, how do some come out poorly exposed?

Aug 31 23 07:58 am Link

Photographer

Mad Hatter Imagery

Posts: 1669

Buffalo, New York, US

Shadow Dancer wrote:
It will be much easier to answer your question if you provide more information. Specifically, are you shooting stationary objects or things that are in motion? Indoors or outdoors? Available light or studio lighting?

Without that information, everything is a guess at best.

Probably always natural light. Generally always still (or at a distance that motion is harder to notice), I can think of indoor and outdoor examples. Lets say outdoor.

Sep 01 23 12:52 pm Link

Photographer

Mad Hatter Imagery

Posts: 1669

Buffalo, New York, US

Studio NSFW wrote:
Overexposed areas are just “Blown out” with digital…you cannot really make detail come back that was overwhelmed with too much light,

I know details will tend to be lost when you properly expose parts of an image causing other parts to blowout or get too dark for detail to have survived. But I'm assuming software can compare images to see which regions of each photo contain the most details and make transparent those regions in the photos that are weak in those area? In a similar manner as focus stacking "knows" what is in focus compared to other images?

Sep 01 23 01:06 pm Link

Photographer

Mad Hatter Imagery

Posts: 1669

Buffalo, New York, US

TaiChiJohn wrote:
Helicon Focus is a program that is dedicated to focus stacking. The company that makes this product is located in Ukraine and has been reliably directing donations toward first responders there.

Interesting. Thanks.

Sep 01 23 01:07 pm Link

Photographer

Shadow Dancer

Posts: 9777

Bellingham, Washington, US

Mad Hatter Imagery wrote:

Probably always natural light. Generally always still (or at a distance that motion is harder to notice), I can think of indoor and outdoor examples. Lets say outdoor.

I'm going to assume you have a solid, reliable tripod. Without one, you will find it far more difficult to be successful with these concepts. If you get the good stuff, you'll only need to buy a tripod once. Don't scrimp and go cheap unless you find something really nice at a ridiculous price at a thrift store - I found my Gitzo at Goodwill for $16. Buy nice or buy twice.

A solid tripod will allow you to make longer exposures, which means you can shut down the aperture more. More depth of field is the only way to simulate "focus stacking" plugins unless you have a lens or view camera with movements. Then you can bring tilts, swings and shifts into play sometimes that can make a huge difference. Most lenses only have tilt functions but it could be all you need sometimes.

Regarding getting a lower contrast range of tones, again a tripod will be your friend. You'll want to make several exposures that align perfectly and that requires the the camera has zero movement during the time you make these different exposures. You won't be able to do this handheld, no two ways about it.

You'll want to overexpose some images and underexpose others until you have the"too dark" and "too bright" components exposed to your preference. Then you'll have the joy of creating a composite image from all of the images to put the sky you want with the shadows you prefer, etc. This won't be fast and probably not easy the first time around.

Back in the film days, we would over-expose our image and under-develop it. That is probably easier but it only works well using black and white film. You could do it with slide film but you will get color shifts, the process is complicate and then of course the fun of scanning the film to create a digital image.

For outdoors, if possible shoot during early morning, late afternoon or on an overcast day. Contrast should be lower at those times. Any time you can avoid direct sunlight that will be helpful in reducing contrast.  Sometimes, an on camera flash can provide enough fill to brighten the shadows without blowing out the highlights. Not something I would count on but it is worth the experiment.

Sep 01 23 01:28 pm Link

Photographer

Mark Salo

Posts: 11726

Olney, Maryland, US

Mad Hatter Imagery wrote:
I use Paintshop Pro and I guess only the 2023 version introduced an automated focus stacking tool.

PaintShop Pro 2023 is currently offering an upgrade for $59.99. You can't beat this!

Sep 01 23 02:09 pm Link

Photographer

Mad Hatter Imagery

Posts: 1669

Buffalo, New York, US

Mark Salo wrote:

PaintShop Pro 2023 is currently offering an upgrade for $59.99. You can't beat this!

I already paid for it. Will install later when I need to focus stack. I do have some images I want to exposure stack. Wasn't sure if any software does that automatically. Will have to experiment.

Sep 02 23 07:31 pm Link