Photographer

Chris Triance-Martin

Posts: 284

London, Ontario, Canada

I've recently invested in a Lowel hotlight (thanks for all the advice I got on that! It ROCKS), and new monolight plus a new backdrop. I'm now thinking about acquiring the Alienbees ABR800 for straight on portraits among other things, just to round things out.

http://www.alienbees.com/abr800.html

Anyone using this? I'd like to know your experience or about any alternatives that may be out there. I'm worried about blinding models as it's 320ws, even though it can be diffused and whatnot. Still, pretty bright.

Thanks.

Dec 26 07 08:21 am Link

Photographer

WV Photo

Posts: 81

Bradley, Arkansas, US

I have the B400's and they have worked fine, dont wory about blinding anyone, you will be able to turn it down plenty. Make sure you get at least one soft box too.

Dec 26 07 08:31 am Link

Photographer

Chris Triance-Martin

Posts: 284

London, Ontario, Canada

WV Photo wrote:
I have the B400's and they have worked fine, dont wory about blinding anyone, you will be able to turn it down plenty. Make sure you get at least one soft box too.

Thanks! It goes way down too. Didn't realize that for some reason. Had to double check.

Dec 26 07 08:38 am Link

Photographer

ward

Posts: 6142

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Chris Triance-Martin wrote:
I've recently invested in a Lowel hotlight (thanks for all the advice I got on that! It ROCKS), and new monolight plus a new backdrop. I'm now thinking about acquiring the Alienbees ABR800 for straight on portraits among other things, just to round things out.

http://www.alienbees.com/abr800.html

Anyone using this? I'd like to know your experience or about any alternatives that may be out there. I'm worried about blinding models as it's 320ws, even though it can be diffused and whatnot. Still, pretty bright.

Thanks.

I use the 1600s. I'd not buy anything less, since I also use them on location. You can always double up on diffusion material, or, use neutral density filters on the light reflector to cut down on output and get a lower f~stop. I use the 1600s for everything from headshots to fashion, fitness, and nude work, and I've not had any problem with them being too bright. The only light that cause blue spots for models' eyes, are open-head reflectors, honeycomb grids, and ring lights. smile

Dec 26 07 08:47 am Link

Photographer

Rik Austin

Posts: 12164

Austin, Texas, US

Eventually the nay-sayers will jump in but the bottom line is AB's are fairly reliable, fairly solid and fairly good, all at very good price and excellent customer service.  The two negatives I've heard are that at low power setting the color can vary some.  I haven't seen it but I'm not doing color-critical work.  The other is that their modifiers leave a bit to be desired.  I've been happy though a wide range would be nice.  All in all though I don't think you can go wrong.  I own 4.

Dec 26 07 08:50 am Link

Photographer

Kate Benson

Posts: 215

Miami Beach, Florida, US

ward wrote:

I use the 1600s. I'd not buy anything less, since I also use them on location. You can always double up on diffusion material, or, use neutral density filters on the light reflector to cut down on output and get a lower f~stop. I use the 1600s for everything from headshots to fashion, fitness, and nude work, and I've not had any problem with them being too bright. The only light that cause blue spots for models' eyes, are open-head reflectors, honeycomb grids, and ring lights. smile

When you are using these on location are you hooking them up with a generator or the Vagabond pack? I have a generator that doesn't work with them (it causes the strobe to fire like a stage strobe light, over and over again way out of controle) and I don't know if it was my generator that did it or if it was just a problem the lights have with unmonitored power like that. I have white lighting lights though.

Dec 26 07 08:54 am Link

Photographer

Christine Hill

Posts: 72

West Bloomfield Township, Michigan, US

I use 800's and 1600's and I would agree.  If you don't like them, you can exchange them.  AB has wonderful customer support. 

If you like your hot lights, stick with them.  I use both and like them both for different reasons.

Dec 26 07 08:54 am Link

Photographer

KNHPHOTOGRAPHY

Posts: 14

Virginia Beach, Virginia, US

I've used AB's and have the 800 & 1600.  Haven't had a problem with them.  I also have the Vagabond and it work great also...although I've not had it for a year yet.

Dec 26 07 08:58 am Link

Photographer

David Linke

Posts: 488

Woodville, Ohio, US

ward wrote:

I use the 1600s. I'd not buy anything less, since I also use them on location. You can always double up on diffusion material, or, use neutral density filters on the light reflector to cut down on output and get a lower f~stop. I use the 1600s for everything from headshots to fashion, fitness, and nude work, and I've not had any problem with them being too bright. The only light that cause blue spots for models' eyes, are open-head reflectors, honeycomb grids, and ring lights. smile

I would agree.  For the small amount of additional investment the 1600's are the way to go.  AB's light modifiers are less than pro standards.  I would suggest looking to either Westcott or Photoflex to control the light.

Dec 26 07 09:00 am Link

Photographer

ward

Posts: 6142

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Benson Studio wrote:
When you are using these on location are you hooking them up with a generator or the Vagabond pack? I have a generator that doesn't work with them (it causes the strobe to fire like a stage strobe light, over and over again way out of controle) and I don't know if it was my generator that did it or if it was just a problem the lights have with unmonitored power like that. I have white lighting lights though.

www.innovatronix.com - I bought this Sine Wave inverter for location work. It works great. It's been to Punta Cana and back twice without problem. Also, I have a small gas powered 1200 watt portable generator that works well with the ABs for location work. (WalMart sells it for $147/Canadian www.easterntools.com)
https://www.easterntools.com/images/etq1200small.JPG

Dec 26 07 09:02 am Link

Photographer

ward

Posts: 6142

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

David Linke wrote:
AB's light modifiers are less than pro standards.  I would suggest looking to either Westcott or Photoflex to control the light.

I concur. I use photoflex, aurora, redwing or chimera diffusers and umbrellas.

Dec 26 07 09:04 am Link

Photographer

Andrew Thomas Evans

Posts: 24079

Minneapolis, Minnesota, US

David Linke wrote:
I would agree.  For the small amount of additional investment the 1600's are the way to go.  AB's light modifiers are less than pro standards.  I would suggest looking to either Westcott or Photoflex to control the light.

I don't know if I agree with that. Sure the extra power is nice to have, but really my 800 pretty much stays turned down around 1/2 maybe 3/4 power at the most, and when I use 1600's they are pretty much turned down as well.

I'd just get some 800's to start, and not worry about the bigger stuff until you know for a fact you're going to need it.

Dec 26 07 11:01 am Link

Photographer

San Francisco Nudes

Posts: 2910

Novato, California, US

If you're going to get 1600s, get the White Lightning not the Alien Bees.  There's a little switch to kill 3/4 of the capacitors - makes it into a 400.  Best of both worlds, no screwing around with neutral density filters, and you get the fast flash duration.  (the way those lights work, it's way faster to have an AB400 @ full power than an AB1600 at 1/4 power).

But since OP seems mostly interested in the ringlight - the consensus seems to be that it works OK but it's a bit clumsy/heavy and a bit cheaply made.  But given the lack of other options in that price range basically if you feel you really need a ringlight and can't afford a fancy one pretty much it's what you're going to get.  The real question is if you really need one in the first place.

Dec 26 07 12:28 pm Link

Photographer

Digitoxin

Posts: 13456

Denver, Colorado, US

Chris Triance-Martin wrote:
I've recently invested in a Lowel hotlight (thanks for all the advice I got on that! It ROCKS), and new monolight plus a new backdrop. I'm now thinking about acquiring the Alienbees ABR800 for straight on portraits among other things, just to round things out.

http://www.alienbees.com/abr800.html

Anyone using this? I'd like to know your experience or about any alternatives that may be out there. I'm worried about blinding models as it's 320ws, even though it can be diffused and whatnot. Still, pretty bright.

Thanks.

I have AB 400's, 800's, and White Lighting 1600s (same company makes them)....... I have not blinded a model yet and never will..... these are not especially powerful lights......  Try a 2400 WS light.......  Makes the sun look dim from 3 miles away!  (ok, a bite of an exaggeration but, you get the idea.

Dec 26 07 12:48 pm Link

Photographer

Tom Couture

Posts: 218

Portland, Maine, US

I have the ABR800 and use it off-camera more than on-camera. That's what's cool about it is not only being able to use it as a straight up ring flash.

Dec 26 07 05:17 pm Link

Photographer

Chris Triance-Martin

Posts: 284

London, Ontario, Canada

Thanks to all of you! You've given me some great things to consider. One of the things I love about the art of photography is that its artists are the most passionate about their game and the most sharing of their experience. When my game is where I want it to be, I hope to return the advice.

Thanks again :-)

Dec 26 07 05:44 pm Link

Photographer

iHartPhotos

Posts: 1263

Calgary, Alberta, Canada

I have the ABR800.
I almost never use it as a ringlight.. I use it off camera like a regular strobe.

If you like the Ringlight look then get it. It works. And when not using it as a ring you can use it as a regular strobe.

Dec 26 07 08:32 pm Link