Forums > Photography Talk > Overpowering the sun advice

Photographer

DeVaul Photography

Posts: 702

Chagrin Falls, Ohio, US

I've seen some very dramatic looking shots of this technique.  I always used available light with maybe a reflector.  I have always used Speedo Blackline indoors and even there I used very soft lighting with lights bounced through silks etc.  Now I bought a beauty dish, an ABR800 ringflash, an SB800, a Vagabond II and one AB800.  I'm trying to broaden my horizons.  Trying to use strobes out doors is very new to me and and I really like the dramatic effects of overpowering the sun.  I just don't know what I can accomplish with what portable equipment I have.

If any of you can post some examples, with any settings/power info, etc. I would really appreciate it.  On another topic, Stephen Eastwood posted some charts, and if I interpreted them correctly, I'm probably limited with my lack of power.  Thanks for the help.

Jan 06 08 02:34 am Link

Photographer

StephenEastwood

Posts: 19585

Great Neck, New York, US

you have enough power if the flash is close enough to the subject to give you the proper amount of light,  The 800 should work with the flash at about 6 feet from the model.

Stephen Eastwood
http://www.StephenEastwood.com

Jan 06 08 02:44 am Link

Photographer

criderphotography

Posts: 239

Fairfax, Virginia, US

Stephen, I know you have posted this a million times, but would you mind sharing your URL with all of the specs by manufacture, etc. on this subject? I thought I had bookmarked it, but can't find it now. I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,

Greg

Jan 06 08 03:03 am Link

Photographer

BlindMike

Posts: 9594

San Francisco, California, US

DeVaul Photography wrote:
Trying to use strobes out doors is very new to me and and I really like the dramatic effects of overpowering the sun.  I just don't know what I can accomplish with what portable equipment I have.

There are plenty of different factors involved - amount of ambient, what modifiers you use, what distance you're working at, what you want your light to look like, etc. Play with it and find out.

Jan 06 08 03:07 am Link

Photographer

StephenEastwood

Posts: 19585

Great Neck, New York, US

http://www.StephenEastwood.com/tutorial … ychart.htm

Only a few here, but the purpose is to see what you want the sky too look like and determine that f stop needed to acheive it, than chack your light and distance/modifier and you will know how much power you need or don't need. 


Stephen Eastwood
http://www.StephenEastwood.com

Jan 06 08 03:15 am Link

Photographer

215 Studios

Posts: 3453

Center Point, Texas, US

Listen to Stephen.  He knows his poo-poo.

Jan 06 08 03:17 am Link

Photographer

StephenEastwood

Posts: 19585

Great Neck, New York, US

Metamucil!   Does wonders!!! big_smile

Stephen Eastwood
http://www.StephenEastwood.com

Jan 06 08 03:18 am Link

Photographer

Mgaphoto

Posts: 4982

San Diego, California, US

can you achieve that affect without a nd and circular polarizer filter?

Jan 06 08 03:27 am Link

Photographer

DeVaul Photography

Posts: 702

Chagrin Falls, Ohio, US

StephenEastwood wrote:
you have enough power if the flash is close enough to the subject to give you the proper amount of light,  The 800 should work with the flash at about 6 feet from the model.

Stephen Eastwood
http://www.StephenEastwood.com

I'm guessing you mean the AB800 and not the ABR800 or the SB800(this where the laughing smilie would go if I could figure out that too)

Jan 06 08 03:32 am Link

Photographer

StephenEastwood

Posts: 19585

Great Neck, New York, US

( ANT ) Mgaphoto wrote:
can you achieve that affect without a nd and circular polarizer filter?

Depends on what f stop and what time of day, its easier to control the light with the CP and ND than have to shoot at f 32 or greater to get a bright afternoon sky to be black.  The reality is the sky will be correctly exposed at 100iso, at 100th/sec at f 16  to make that dark you first speed up, than add light to the subject if you can shoot 200th and stay at f16 you are already starting to make the sky a bit darker but if you check the chart on that page you will see you need a very small aperature to get the sky real dark.

Stephen Eastwood
http://www.StephenEastwood.com

Jan 06 08 03:34 am Link

Photographer

Corey Ward

Posts: 2479

Austin, Texas, US

( ANT ) Mgaphoto wrote:
can you achieve that affect without a nd and circular polarizer filter?

The benefit to using a neutral density filter is that you can use a larger aperture so you have a sharper shot (less diffraction) and shallower depth of focus. wink

Jan 06 08 03:37 am Link

Photographer

StephenEastwood

Posts: 19585

Great Neck, New York, US

DeVaul Photography wrote:

I'm guessing you mean the AB800 and not the ABR800 or the SB800(this where the laughing smilie would go if I could figure out that too)

well the sb800 is probably as bright as a alienbee 800 flashhead, or one stop more than the 400ws alienbee, so you could use it straight on closer in to get enough light, or if your camera has a high speed sync that works with it.  The ab ring is about teh same as the alienbee 400 in power so it may need to be closer.

Stephen Eastwood
http://www.StephenEastwood.com

Jan 06 08 03:37 am Link

Photographer

Mgaphoto

Posts: 4982

San Diego, California, US

StephenEastwood wrote:

Depends on what f stop and what time of day, its easier to control the light with the CP and ND than have to shoot at f 32 or greater to get a bright afternoon sky to be black.  The reality is the sky will be correctly exposed at 100iso, at 100th/sec at f 16  to make that dark you first speed up, than add light to the subject if you can shoot 200th and stay at f16 you are already starting to make the sky a bit darker but if you check the chart on that page you will see you need a very small aperature to get the sky real dark.

Stephen Eastwood
http://www.StephenEastwood.com

cool... thanks for the info because I am going to buy an inverter and try using my acute ring light outdoors or maybe my profoto 600 mono but I saw in another post a while back about the power issues with getting this affect smile

Jan 06 08 03:38 am Link

Photographer

StephenEastwood

Posts: 19585

Great Neck, New York, US

Corey Ward wrote:

The benefit to using a neutral density filter is that you can use a larger aperture so you have a sharper shot (less diffraction) and shallower depth of focus. wink

Excatly why I recommend them,  its always better to be able to set DOF for the look and feel and not because you have to stop down or up to make it work.  I am a believer that you should choose speed and aperature for the look and effect than adjust your strobe accordingly.

Stephen Eastwood
http://www.StephenEastwood.com

Jan 06 08 03:40 am Link

Photographer

StephenEastwood

Posts: 19585

Great Neck, New York, US

( ANT ) Mgaphoto wrote:

cool... thanks for the info because I am going to buy an inverter and try using my acute ring light outdoors or maybe my profoto 600 mono but I saw in another post a while back about the power issues with getting this affect smile

600ws should be plenty so long as you do not want to put the light 10 feet away through a double diffuser softbox, you may need to bring it in closer or use it more direct relfector.

There is also an ability to run dual or triple conversions making the sky almost 2 stops darker so long as you don't blow it out and get some detail in it.

Stephen Eastwood
http://www.StephenEastwood.com

Jan 06 08 03:43 am Link