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Shooting at Noon
any tips, suggestions, samples? i have alienbee b400 and b800 and only umbrellas if that helps oh and a huge silver/gold reflector Jul 01 08 04:09 pm Link put the subject in the shade. use sun as backlight if poss. Use your AB to fill or use your reflector for fill, or both. If you can't get in shade, try using 1 reflector to create shade and another held for fill. That is if you have assistants or stands. Jul 01 08 04:14 pm Link bump any pics? Jul 01 08 04:56 pm Link My shots with Kristie and Shaye were shot at bright mid-day. See link for photos/description: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ermeister/ Jul 01 08 05:22 pm Link Practice, practice, practice. Jul 01 08 05:45 pm Link Stephen Fletcher wrote: PRACTICE!? what's this practice u speak of!?!? O.o Jul 01 08 07:08 pm Link Jon S Chen wrote: Its best to shoot outdoors on overcast days. It's like having one big softbox. Jul 01 08 07:13 pm Link shade. and reflect from outside of the shade. Jul 01 08 07:13 pm Link Marks Fine Art wrote: haha its never overcast here in the summer Jul 01 08 07:16 pm Link Time: Approximately 12:30 p.m. Place: SoCal Desert Equipment: Nikon D200, 50 mm f/1.8 with Circular Polarizer, 1 AB800. Last weekend I took a new model to a location to test some concepts for a planned fashion shoot. I was hoping to do some "overpower the sun" type shots but the Sun rose too fast and was overhead by the time I got to the location and set up. While its not what I was after, the model liked it so here it is:  Jul 01 08 07:52 pm Link If you can't find shade in a good location, a large scrim on some c-stands can help with the shadows. Jul 01 08 08:35 pm Link Jon S Chen wrote: Shot in th middle of the day... don't use the umbrellas... just use your reflectors that came with the lights... set them at 30-45 degree angles. Over power the sky by a stop to stop and half... Jul 01 08 08:41 pm Link Stephen Fletcher wrote: yuppers. only way. only way. shoot shoot shoot. no other way. I can set up my strobes in my house studio, either reflect them off the ceiling, or on the model, or back against the umbrellas. I can place them closer or farther away, use one or two, and just by looking and guessing, since I've done it so many effing times, I don't even have to meter anymore. Jul 01 08 08:42 pm Link Jon S Chen wrote: Have same power as the sun or over power the sun. Jul 01 08 08:44 pm Link Jon S Chen wrote: Majority of my profile is images made in desert afternoon sun. i usually arive around noon and leave around 6PMish. I use a single Nikon SB800, a AB Ringligh with the vagabond 2 battery pack. i used to use reflectors but that takes an extra person and most models can't stand he brightness unless you use the white and it's not enough light for me. Jul 01 08 08:46 pm Link  Jul 01 08 10:25 pm Link  Click to enlarge Shot at near noon with two Sunpak 333 flashes. Just don't try to blow away the model with light, unless you're into that "over-powering the sun thing." Looks more natural if you keep the fill percentages on the low side though. Jul 01 08 10:31 pm Link I've seen some nice results with people using really large skrims for shade, shoot under them and use flash for fill and accent. Jul 01 08 10:38 pm Link If you have a light meter, take your ambient reading and power your strobes 2 stops from the ambient. The sun should be behind model or to the side of the model. This will give you the "over-powering" sun look that I think you are after with this post. Best regards, ronald n. tan www.ronaldntan.com Jon S Chen wrote: Jul 02 08 05:58 am Link 
Photographer Posts: 468 Dumont d'Urville - permanent station of France, Sector claimed by France, Antarctica Some shots will ONLY work with midday sun. This shot, though not a "model" shot, would not have worked had not the direct overhead sun eliminated nearly all shadows in the narrow corridor. It also exaggerated the extreme texture of the weathered walls. (San Cristobal fortress, Old San Juan, Puerto Rico).  Jul 02 08 09:28 am Link ''any tips, suggestions, samples?'' Dont unless you have to... Jul 02 08 09:29 am Link Neil A wrote: The exact reason this worked for this lovely photo is why shooting a model at noon sucks. Jul 02 08 10:32 am Link Jon S Chen wrote: Since no one asked... Jul 02 08 10:40 am Link about half the shots in my port. The only outside shot that wasn't shot at mid day is the one titled Road to Ruin. that was late afternoon. All the other outdoor images were shot between 10 am and 3 pm. Jul 02 08 02:14 pm Link  Near noon, model in shade, two Canon 580 flash units one at camera and the other camera right about 1/2 stop stronger then the sun, when using lights outdoors invest in weigh to be used on light stand so it is not blown over by a gust of wind. Jul 02 08 03:00 pm Link in the studio, it doesn't matter if it's noon or 3am. Jul 02 08 03:03 pm Link I chose this shot to illustrate what a couple people (above) said ... Use a semi-translucent disc (often the middle disc in a collapsible 5-in-1 reflector) as a SCRIM. I prefer semi-translucent because it softens rather than block the sunlight. You can also make a frame out of PVC pipe and buy rip-stop semi-translucent white nylon at a fabric store. Put the SCRIM over the model to soften the light, then use a reflector (gold was used in this case) to fill the model evenly. Works like a champ.  Jul 02 08 03:11 pm Link Direct sunlight 10am No scrim or reflectors  Afternoon in the tree shade using bootflash with GaryFong lightsphere  Jul 02 08 03:23 pm Link RichBruton wrote: interesting shadow on the ground. Jul 02 08 03:26 pm Link Dave Wright Photo SF wrote: again ... that's why I used this as an example ... so the OP could see what was going on. Jul 02 08 03:30 pm Link sorry for not replying. been busy. im going for a glamour type of head shot. thanks for all those pics. so basicly use my relfector as shade. model behind sun or on side. got it! thanks! Jul 02 08 03:30 pm Link |
