Forums > Digital Art and Retouching > Creating custom film emulation ICC profiles for C1

Photographer

Giacomo Cirrincioni

Posts: 22232

Stamford, Connecticut, US

So I'm thinking of creating some custom ICC profiles to mimic certain film stocks.  Here's what I'm thinking.  Essentially, I'll photograph a large color checker chart with the film of choice under studio lighting (which I use mostly) and outdoors with ambient light on 4x5 film.

I'll develop the film normally and scan it into the computer with no corrections applied.  Then, using my digital camera (Leaf Aptus-II) I'll photograph the same chart under the same conditions.  Using the color controls I'll adjust each square until the digital file matches the film scan and save the ICC profile - for example. portra_160_strobe.icc or provia_100_daylight.

I still have some well kept stocks that are no longer made in my Freezer, and I'd like to profile them now that you can't get them anymore.

Any thoughts on this process?  Anything I'm missing before I start?

Jun 04 14 06:18 pm Link

Photographer

JustinWKing

Posts: 69

New York, New York, US

It's been done by companies such as VSCO and Replichrome, so you may save yourself some trouble, unless you are looking for something very specific that is not available.

http://vsco.co/film
http://www.gettotallyrad.com/replichrome/

Jun 04 14 06:28 pm Link

Photographer

Giacomo Cirrincioni

Posts: 22232

Stamford, Connecticut, US

First, those don't work with Capture One (which uses ICC profiles).

But more importantly, and this I don't know, how do they know what you're starting with.

If I take the same picture, with two different sensors, and run them through one of those plugging, will the result be the same?  If not, then you don't really have a good transfer function. 

I suppose it could be close, perhaps close enough, but I thought by doing it this way, I could get it as close as possible for my camera.

Jun 04 14 06:35 pm Link

Photographer

A. I. Studios

Posts: 126

Jersey City, New Jersey, US

I would assume and hope that you will scan the negative, not a print of the film. Scanning a negative will get you as close as possible, by scanning a print, then other factors -variables- will become "part" of the equation! Heck, scan both! see what you get.

Either way you go about it, the scanner will have to be calibrated, you would need some sort of scanner profile, I don't think I have seen any scanner profile, then again, I have never had a need for it, I did not look for it.

I had a need for something like this, except it was for Kodak Ektachrome, I used Photoshop "Channel Mixer" to create a preset that I apply whenever I have a need for it (one click!), this works only if you happen to know your way around Photoshop.

Jun 04 14 07:03 pm Link

Photographer

Giacomo Cirrincioni

Posts: 22232

Stamford, Connecticut, US

A. I. Studios wrote:
I would assume and hope that you will scan the negative, not a print of the film. Scanning a negative will get you as close as possible, by scanning a print, then other factors -variables- will become "part" of the equation! Heck, scan both! see what you get.

Either way you go about it, the scanner will have to be calibrated, you would need some sort of scanner profile, I don't think I have seen any scanner profile, then again, I have never had a need for it, I did not look for it.

I had a need for something like this, except it was for Kodak Ektachrome, I used Photoshop "Channel Mixer" to create a preset that I apply whenever I have a need for it (one click!), this works only if you happen to know your way around Photoshop.

I use the X-Rite system to calibrate everything, including the scanner, and yes, I'd be scanning the negative (or positive in the case of chromes).

Jun 04 14 07:06 pm Link

Retoucher

Pictus

Posts: 1379

Teresópolis, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Giacomo Cirrincioni wrote:
First, those don't work with Capture One (which uses ICC profiles).

But more importantly, and this I don't know, how do they know what you're starting with.

If I take the same picture, with two different sensors, and run them through one of those plugging, will the result be the same?  If not, then you don't really have a good transfer function. 

I suppose it could be close, perhaps close enough, but I thought by doing it this way, I could get it as close as possible for my camera.

VSCO uses custom camera profiles + curves and adjustments...

Jun 04 14 07:38 pm Link

Photographer

Giacomo Cirrincioni

Posts: 22232

Stamford, Connecticut, US

Pictus wrote:

VSCO uses custom camera profiles + curves and adjustments...

Yes, but they don't work with C1

Jun 04 14 07:48 pm Link

Retoucher

D A N

Posts: 124

Jacksonville, Florida, US

And most likely they'll never work or get ported to C1 https://www.facebook.com/VisualSupply/p … 2588270924

Jun 04 14 11:08 pm Link

Retoucher

Pictus

Posts: 1379

Teresópolis, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Maybe Colin can do, he is doing custom profiles for ACR/LR http://www.colorfidelity.com
but did for RawTherapee too...

Jun 05 14 12:01 am Link

Retoucher

Tincture

Posts: 126

New York, New York, US

Giacomo, this is a personal holy grail of mine, please do keep me apprised of your results!

One work-around that I've been using lately is, under 'base characteristics', I choose "linear response" as my curve instead of film standard.  I then go to the levels and slide the top left handle over so it reads between 10-25 instead of 0.  I find that this recipe gives me a very flat image to start with, but one with an incredible tonal range that is pretty close to that of a scanned color neg.

Jun 05 14 10:30 am Link

Photographer

Giacomo Cirrincioni

Posts: 22232

Stamford, Connecticut, US

Tincture wrote:
Giacomo, this is a personal holy grail of mine, please do keep me apprised of your results!

One work-around that I've been using lately is, under 'base characteristics', I choose "linear response" as my curve instead of film standard.  I then go to the levels and slide the top left handle over so it reads between 10-25 instead of 0.  I find that this recipe gives me a very flat image to start with, but one with an incredible tonal range that is pretty close to that of a scanned color neg.

You're local.  I'm traveling for much of the month, but when I get back and can really start on this, I'll let you know.  Once I get the films processed, we can take a look at them together if you like.

Jun 05 14 12:05 pm Link

Retoucher

D A N

Posts: 124

Jacksonville, Florida, US

Tincture wrote:
One work-around that I've been using lately is, under 'base characteristics', I choose "linear response" as my curve instead of film standard.  I then go to the levels and slide the top left handle over so it reads between 10-25 instead of 0.  I find that this recipe gives me a very flat image to start with, but one with an incredible tonal range that is pretty close to that of a scanned color neg.

I just tried it out and it's a great tip, thanks for sharing!

Giacomo Cirrincioni wrote:
You're local.  I'm traveling for much of the month, but when I get back and can really start on this, I'll let you know.  Once I get the films processed, we can take a look at them together if you like.

I wish I was a fly on the wall!

Jun 05 14 01:35 pm Link

Retoucher

Tincture

Posts: 126

New York, New York, US

Giacomo Cirrincioni wrote:
You're local.  I'm traveling for much of the month, but when I get back and can really start on this, I'll let you know.  Once I get the films processed, we can take a look at them together if you like.

Sounds good

Jun 06 14 04:40 am Link

Photographer

KMP

Posts: 4834

Houston, Texas, US

I've always wanted to do this for the old Kodak S series  chromes smile

Jun 06 14 05:10 am Link

Retoucher

Tincture

Posts: 126

New York, New York, US

D A N wrote:
I just tried it out and it's a great tip, thanks for sharing!

No problem!

Jun 06 14 01:51 pm Link

Retoucher

Tincture

Posts: 126

New York, New York, US

Double crappy HTML coded post

Jun 06 14 01:53 pm Link

Retoucher

201retarded

Posts: 74

Hoboken, New Jersey, US

I like Linear also, it's manual. The film standard applies the same S curve to every image and it's just okay most of the time.

Jun 07 14 09:56 am Link

Photographer

Fred Greissing

Posts: 6427

Los Angeles, California, US

There is a lot more to the look of film than matching a test chart.

Grain structure, transitions into very bright areas, color behavior with different color temperature film.

For example the dynamic range of tungsten film maintains a good balance in every layer.
With digital the capture is always daylight and the Chanel's get pushed around to balance the color.

Capture One is IMO just to limited an application for doing really good film emulation.
The raw conversion to start with in Capture one is not about accuracy. Also the 35mm DSLR profiles in Capture one just are not as good as what can be done with other programs

Jun 07 14 11:20 am Link

Retoucher

Pictus

Posts: 1379

Teresópolis, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Fred Greissing wrote:
(...)
Capture One is IMO just to limited an application for doing really good film emulation.
The raw conversion to start with in Capture one is not about accuracy. Also the 35mm DSLR profiles in Capture one just are not as good as what can be done with other programs

The best film emulation I ever saw is from Raw Photo Processor (RPP).

RPP for begginers

Jun 08 14 04:08 am Link

Retoucher

GrishaSevel

Posts: 42

Moscow, Moscow, Russia

Pictus wrote:
The best film emulation I ever saw is from Raw Photo Processor (RPP).

RPP for begginers

wow, much thanks!

Jun 08 14 07:22 am Link

Retoucher

Tincture

Posts: 126

New York, New York, US

Pictus wrote:
The best film emulation I ever saw is from Raw Photo Processor (RPP).

RPP for begginers

That portra setting is very nice, thanks for the link!

Jun 08 14 09:53 am Link

Retoucher

pixel dimension ilusion

Posts: 1550

Brussels, Brussels, Belgium

try dng profile editor let u make some awesome profiles ut it supports only dng file ut it doesnt matter cause u can save the profile

Jun 08 14 01:06 pm Link