Forums > Off-Topic Discussion > Has anyone painted old concrete portland cement?

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

A cement question for Artists and Old Pros:


I have an old cement driveway at a property built in 1952. It's 15'x22' as a single piece without partitions.

I patched the cracks with RapidSet Cement All which works great but dries white.

https://stm-ltd.co.uk/materials/images/cement-all-large.jpg

Now I want to cover the white patches with something that blends everything together to the basic color of fresh cement.

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I bought some boxes of Quikrete Driveway Resurfacer that has bonding polymers and goes on with a squeegee. It's requires broom texturing in 5 minutes and it's total working time is only 20 minutes.

https://media.mydoitbest.com/imagerequest.aspx?sku=286508&size=2&warehouse=C&newsize=200

I'm afraid that I can't work the whole driveway with 4 boxes of Quikrete resurfacer before it sets.


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So, as an alternative, I was thinking about mixing pure portland cement with water to the consistency of paint and simply brushing it on dampened concrete.

My only purpose is to hide and blend the patches. Cheap and done with no 1/8" layers of multiple pours to try to feather or broom-stroke together.


Does anyone have experience with this?


This was the beginning of the patch process. I feathered everything with a sponge trowel, so it's good now for a final finish to get rid of the white patches.

https://www.pbase.com/image/156308308.jpg

Jun 26 14 05:49 pm Link

Artist/Painter

JJMiller

Posts: 807

Buffalo, New York, US

I don't think straight up portland would work, it needs an aggregate like stone or sand mixed in. I assume the product you have is similar to top-n-bond? As a side note buy an extra bag or two if you go this route just in case.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkl3bY7Z88k

There are driveway paints and concrete stains, but you'd probably want something textured if you want a uniform look at this point.

Jun 26 14 05:51 pm Link

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

JJMiller wrote:
I assume the product you have is similar to top-n-bond?

I'll look up that name.

The Quikrete product is what Home Depot sells. It's about $22 per 40 pound box and I estimate I need just under 4 boxes to cover my driveway 1/8"

It's self-leveling when it's wet, but it's only wet for about 4 minutes before it starts to set.

Broom-stroking is recommended at 5 minutes.

Edge trowel is allegedly workable before 20 minutes. After that, forget it. It's too hard.

---

The RapidSet CementAll was damn fast too, but I was working small areas so I could easily mix smaller portions and keep up with it.

As I learned to apply, I got the best results by pouring soupy mixture into the cracks, followed with confident broad metal trowel strokes from the shoulder. The material changes minute-by-minute so you have to be ready with your bucket of water and sponge trowel to feather at exactly the right moment.

As I figured it out, that part was kind of fun.

Jun 26 14 05:56 pm Link

Photographer

Lohkee

Posts: 14028

Maricopa, Arizona, US

Jun 26 14 05:58 pm Link

Artist/Painter

JJMiller

Posts: 807

Buffalo, New York, US

I added a video link ^

I don't know how much a pro would charge, but it may be worth it in the long run- especially if you've never done something like this before. Surface preparation on a job like this is huge no matter what you decide on. It gets to the point where you spend $100 now and it lasts a couple of years, or spend $500 and it lasts for 20. Then again the winters here are more destructive so I may be biased wink

This has a longer working time http://www.homedepot.com/p/SAKRETE-40-l … /100671663

Jun 26 14 06:05 pm Link

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

JJMiller wrote:
There are driveway paints and concrete stains, but you'd probably want something textured if you want a uniform look at this point.

I should add that this is a rental property and my university student tenants will quickly trash anything I do anyway. I'm looking for a basic C+ cosmetic cleanup.

My main purpose for starting was to grind the cracks level to remove the liability of tripping hazards, then to fill the cracks to keep water from expanding and contracting the clay soil underneath. That part is done.

The Point: I have latitude to play and learn. Anything will be better than it was.

I like learning to do these things myself. Amongst the posters here is a wealth of information and talent.

If I was going to spend any serious amount of money, then I would probably just have the entire driveway jack-hammered out and replaced. Then my tenants can park their leaky cars on a beautiful new slab.

Jun 26 14 06:11 pm Link

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

JJMiller wrote:
I added a video link ^

Yes, I have watched that video carefully. That is a promotional sales video by Quikrete to sell that product.

They make it look so easy.

I called the technical assistance number today and got a kid with scripted answers reading off their PDF data sheet. I doubt he's ever worked with concrete or cement products himself, LOL.

I'll try calling again tomorrow morning to see if I can get an old contractor who knows his product.

Jun 26 14 06:21 pm Link

Photographer

Leo Howard

Posts: 6850

Phoenix, Arizona, US

I have painted over concrete driveways in the past using thinned down cement & fine sand mix, it actually does a couple of things, 1) it evens out the color and 2) it adds a gripping surface so it becomes a little non slip type surface, the more sand in the mix, the more rough the texture, you may have to play with the mixture to get it just right.

Jun 26 14 06:22 pm Link

Photographer

Michael Bots

Posts: 8020

Kingston, Ontario, Canada

Have someone else mix the driveway resurfacer as you apply it and brush it out.
(Alternate mix tubs may be needed at the ready if it starts to set in lumps, but if you are careful to keep mixing new product in evenly, probably not necessary.)
 
That way the mixing and application process is spread out as a continuous process for as long as needed without sharp mixture changes. As long as the working time for the area you are actually working on is not exceeded everything should be fine.
  The packaging should define area coverage but assume those numbers are being "optimistic". 
  Avoid direct sun and the heat of mid day.



Google also  -->    acrylic concrete bonding agent
example
http://www.rona.ca/en/cement-acrylic-bo … 4595043--1


Cement Color (Liquid)
http://www.quikrete.com/productlines/cementcolor.asp

Jun 26 14 06:23 pm Link

Photographer

Jeffrey M Fletcher

Posts: 4861

Asheville, North Carolina, US

Split it in half? Leaves a line down the middle but at least it looks neat.

Jun 26 14 06:23 pm Link

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

Lohkee wrote:
http://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/ho … te/#tabs-1

Yes, I like this one better because it's an independent source. Maybe. 

"Getting a nice even coat without lap mark can take a bit of practice."

Hence, the launching of this thread.

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If I can figure it out and practice on my rental property, then I might clean up my own patio's and walkways at home.

For my own home, I would like anything I do to shine of experience and craftsmanship tongue

Smaller areas will be much easier to work, especially walkways. My small patio has expansion joints at easy intervals.

Jun 26 14 06:29 pm Link

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

Leo Howard wrote:
I have painted over concrete driveways in the past using thinned down cement & fine sand mix, it actually does a couple of things, 1) it evens out the color and 2) it adds a gripping surface so it becomes a little non slip type surface, the more sand in the mix, the more rough the texture, you may have to play with the mixture to get it just right.

In contrast to all the new polymer based concrete products now, this is the kind of Old School first hand advice I was looking for.

Portland cement is an excellent bonding agent. Brick layers often use portland/water "paint" on both surfaces before they slap their mortar in place.

Portland cement is relatively water resistant as well. I've heard of the paint+sand mixture for waterproofing porous walls.

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On the other hand, there have been lots of advances in construction materials.

When I was a kid, I remember people trying to feather new cement into old cement with cement glue. It never worked and quickly cracked up in the thin places. I think those days are long gone. New materials have remarkable adhesion, durability and flexibility.

Jun 26 14 06:38 pm Link

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

Jeffrey M Fletcher wrote:
Split it in half? Leaves a line down the middle but at least it looks neat.

A possible option.

Maybe I could lay down a 1/8" strip of paneling, then trim it at the board with a V-trowel for making grooves.

Figuring out how to partition the driveway in quarters would make the work areas easier to handle, and not so far to try to reach with the broom.

Jun 26 14 06:42 pm Link

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

Thank you all.

Lots of good, concrete answers in this thread tongue

---

Found a list of customer reviews. The negative reviews make me want to return the material and try something else.

The few 5 star reviews look like fakes to even out the disgruntled customers.

http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/20228 … eviews.htm

No customer reviews at amazon.

Jun 26 14 06:46 pm Link

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

OK, on the positive side, I can vouch for RapidSet Cement-All as an excellent, fast setting concrete repair product. It can easily fill in chunks of missing concrete steps, holes in blocks, or down to setting anchor bolts in concrete holes or filling cracks.


I like it so much that I'm going to try their RapidSet Mortar for chunks of scratch-coat that cracked off a cement block wall covered with stucco, and as a scratch coat to patch in around a pre-hung security door I recently mounted through a stucco covered 2x4 wall of a garage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dm1eoiFF4F4

I also bought a box of RapidSet stucco patch for light surface stucco patch paint prep along the bottom of an exterior house wall.


So many hobbies, .... so little time smile

Jun 26 14 09:01 pm Link

Photographer

studio36uk

Posts: 22898

Tavai, Sigave, Wallis and Futuna

@ Click

Leo Howard wrote:
I have painted over concrete driveways in the past using thinned down cement & fine sand mix, it actually does a couple of things, 1) it evens out the color and 2) it adds a gripping surface so it becomes a little non slip type surface, the more sand in the mix, the more rough the texture, you may have to play with the mixture to get it just right.

You can get really fine graded sand for the purpose. 80 grit, a screened graded sand, is used in the tile trade and is readily available, bagged. Mix that with ordinary Portland cement. To improve new to old bonding you might also use a liquid latex in the mixing water. Also readily available and used by the tile trade.

Alternatively, another tile trade product consisting of both a cement and fine sand mix with a built in bonding additive is "self levelling compound." Mix with water only, pour out and spread with a squeegee. It will settle to a relatively ridge free surface with no need to trowel it down [hence the name "self levelling"]. The cracks likely would need some detailed treatment beforehand by pouring this mix into them to fill them, striking the top off with a trowel flush with the surrounding concrete, before the whole top coat was applied, but, overall it should work to result in a new relatively smooth new surface with, say, a 1/4" to 3/8" thickness maybe a bit thicker with a stiffer mix. You could even put this mix down over fibreglass roving for reinforcement. But, of course, there is a cost factor in doing so.

Nothing you do, however, will resist the ultimate forces of nature - subsidence, or freezing/thawing, or earthquakes. Not even a new 6" reinforced slab.

Studio36

Jun 27 14 03:16 am Link

Photographer

Robb Mann

Posts: 12327

Baltimore, Maryland, US

I'll bet that within a year or two the white will darken and blend in pretty well.

Jun 27 14 03:31 am Link

Artist/Painter

ethasleftthebuilding

Posts: 16685

Key West, Florida, US

Simple cheap fix to make it all the same color.

Buy one sack of mortar mix (the kind you just add water to) and then get the poly/latex admix (usually sold in the ceramic tile department). 

Use 1/2 and 1/2 water and admix in the mortar mix to make a thin (like paint consistency) mix.

Apply it by shoveling globs onto the existing concrete and smooth it out into a very thin layer (1/16" or so) over the entire surface.

One bag will go a LONG way at that thickness.

It will make a no skid surface and everything will come out the same color.

If you want to stain the concrete a color, perhaps an earth tone to make it more natural, it's easy, just add in some ceramic tile grout colorant to the mix when you mix it.

The surface will wear naturally.

The only drawback in my experience is if you make it too thick (like a 1/8" or more layer) it can crack and flake off over time.  The trick is to keep the layer as thin as possible.

Jun 27 14 10:17 am Link

Model

Jules NYC

Posts: 21617

New York, New York, US

I have no need to resurface a driveway but I thoroughly enjoyed reading how to patch it without hiring a professional.

Jun 27 14 10:53 am Link

Model

JoJo

Posts: 26560

Clearwater, Florida, US

Painting a Portland cement (like) surface….

I am primarily an artist.
I painted this mural, 29’x 9’, onto an old concrete block wall faced with a high-Ph cement stucco-like finish.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YcElNheXdwQ/U … er+008.JPG
(from http://billyholcoutdoors.blogspot.com/2 … -park.html)

The biggest problem with the surface was to neutralize the Ph of the wall itself.
Solution: several good washes with a pressure washer (and a scrub brush) with baking soda added to the wash.
Once that dried out in the Florida sun I applied several coats of Gesso.
The wall was then ready to accept standard artist grade acrylic paint.
Once the mural was complete (took me almost 3 months to complete the painting) I applied several coats of commercial grade polyurethane with a UV blocking agent added.

What you see in the big picture is what the mural looks like 2 ½ years after I completed it. The wall is outside, open to all the elements of Florida weather…. and sun.

So that’s how to add art to an external concrete surface…. but if you just want to cover the area with one colour try looking here:
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeown … y-how-tos/

Jun 27 14 11:34 am Link

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

Gesso has piqued my interest in the past as an interesting material to explore for non-canvas applications.

It's like a flexible plaster-based product, right?

Jun 27 14 12:26 pm Link

Photographer

FIFTYONE PHOTOGRAPHY

Posts: 6597

Uniontown, Pennsylvania, US

Not to be a spoiler....but,

There are 2 types of Concrete, Concrete that is cracked and Concrete that is going to crack.

Cracks form when the supporting ground underneath erodes, shifts, moves over time.

The driveway looks old and large, the lack of any expansion joints in the slab only compound the matter.

Good luck with the project but I think it's fruitless, any cracking repaired will only reappear at this point.

Jun 27 14 01:18 pm Link

Photographer

Michael Bots

Posts: 8020

Kingston, Ontario, Canada

No freeze thaw cycles in San Diego. Things are much more stable than in northern states.

Jun 27 14 01:44 pm Link

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

Fifty One Imaging wrote:
Not to be a spoiler....but,

There are 2 types of Concrete, Concrete that is cracked and Concrete that is going to crack.

Cracks form when the supporting ground underneath erodes, shifts, moves over time.

The driveway looks old and large, the lack of any expansion joints in the slab only compound the matter.

Good luck with the project but I think it's fruitless, any cracking repaired will only reappear at this point.

Yes, it's a patch.

This is a rental property.

First order of importance was to grind the cracks flat to avoid liability from tripping on uneven edges. If a property owner does not do this, it is considered negligent. Especially for a rental.

Second purpose was to fill the cracks to keep water from exacerbating the expansion/contraction of clay soil underneath.

Lastly, to try a little cosmetic cleanup as a finish.


It took this driveway 62 years to get in that condition. Grinding, filling and feathering makes it functional again. There are no tree roots nearby.


We'll see what happens next. As long as the driveway stays relatively smooth, I don't care so much.

Replacing a concrete driveway used to be cheap and easy. Now it costs many thousands of dollars, plus dealing with permits, city fees, various utility company sign-offs, and inspectors. One neighbor on another street replaced his small driveway for $9000. It boggles my mind that prices get that high for something like this. It's only concrete. It's only a driveway. Welcome to urban life in California.

Replacing the driveway will not make my rent go up. Not replacing the driveway will not make that house any more difficult to rent. It's a charming old house from 1952. Students like it because they can afford the rent and because it's within walking distance to the university. The rest of the house is neat and tidy, so it's a desirable place to live. Many other driveways on that street are cracked and neglected, so this one fits the neighborhood.

Jun 27 14 02:27 pm Link

Photographer

joeyk

Posts: 14895

Seminole, Florida, US

I had a studio floor once that was concrete. Painted it with porch and deck enamel, looked great. Had a lot of motorcycles on it, held up well.

Don't know about the weight of cars...

Jun 27 14 07:38 pm Link

Photographer

Ryan South

Posts: 1421

Baton Rouge, Louisiana, US

I've done it.... As above I also used some sand.  For any big chunks I used "Concrete Bonder" I think it was.  I read you could also use a plain Portland "paint".  You're supposed to wet whatever you concreting/cementing to prior.  It was more time than I thought it would be... The mixture just kept going down in the cracks(instead of just putting a patch on top).  I ended up using quite a bit of hose water to encourage this and fill these cracks which worked and has held up for a few years now.  You could probably just throw the mixture on the ground and then use a hose to spray it into the cracks.  If it's a concern, it will be considerably less porous than standard concrete and not drain the same. G'luck

Jun 27 14 09:40 pm Link

Model

JoJo

Posts: 26560

Clearwater, Florida, US

Click Hamilton wrote:
Gesso has piqued my interest in the past as an interesting material to explore for non-canvas applications.

It's like a flexible plaster-based product, right?

Gesso is mainly a binder - consistency... think more along the line of Tom Sawyer era whitewash that is a milky beige in colour.

Jun 27 14 10:23 pm Link

Model

JoJo

Posts: 26560

Clearwater, Florida, US

Fifty One Imaging wrote:
Not to be a spoiler....but,

There are 2 types of Concrete, Concrete that is cracked and Concrete that is going to crack.

Cracks form when the supporting ground underneath erodes, shifts, moves over time.

The driveway looks old and large, the lack of any expansion joints in the slab only compound the matter.

Good luck with the project but I think it's fruitless, any cracking repaired will only reappear at this point.

Click is in San Diego so there's not going to be any freeze/thaw but there are going to be minor tremors.

I thought about Click's driveway trying to come up with a solution that would fit the Click we all know wink

He's not going to stop the cracks from reappearing unless he does some major (and expensive) underpinning of the driveway.

So why not work with the cracks?
Come up with an artistic design that would take advantage of the cracks and that would compliment the neighbourhood.

Being the sick and demented artist I am my thoughts wandered off to something that might befit Click (another somewhat sick and demented soul wink)... maybe something like this (with a light colour background)
https://livingartstattoo.net/Livingartstattoo/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/naturalman.jpg
or some other sillyness from the R. Crumb-esk era

I'd do that in my neighbourhood just to piss off all the people that wear beige Dockers in their profession wink

Jun 27 14 10:49 pm Link

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

JoJo wrote:
I thought about Click's driveway trying to come up with a solution that would fit the Click we all know wink

We could start out with alluring naked models laid out and composed along the crack lines. Then give them trowels and globs of mud as props. Then maybe turn the driveway into a giant finger-painting canvas, using their naked bodies rather than their fingers to make art. In the process, cracks would be filled tongue

JoJo wrote:
He's not going to stop the cracks from reappearing unless he does some major (and expensive) underpinning of the driveway.

So why not work with the cracks?
Come up with an artistic design that would take advantage of the cracks and that would compliment the neighbourhood.

I've seen clever things done with hard boiled eggs and soy sauce

https://img.food.com/img/recipes/18/87/95/large/pic2krIwR.jpg

JoJo wrote:
Being the sick and demented artist I am my thoughts wandered off to something that might befit Click (another somewhat sick and demented soul wink)... maybe something like this (with a light colour background)
https://livingartstattoo.net/Livingartstattoo/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/naturalman.jpg
or some other sillyness from the R. Crumb-esk era

I'd do that in my neighbourhood just to piss off all the people that wear beige Dockers in their profession wink

I like sick and demented artists!

R. Crumb was a favorite hero of mine during my formative years. I just got my boots re-soled yesterday. I wish the new soles were available in blue.


PS - I still have half a can of Devil Girl candy in my drawer

https://www.comicsreporter.com/images/uploads/DG_Kisses_logo-418x418_thumb.jpg

Jun 28 14 08:36 am Link