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Shooting Film...
Frank Lewis Photography wrote: Developer and stop go down the sink, no harm in that. Spent fixer gets poured into a container and I take that down to the dump where they can properly (so they say) dispose of it. Jul 21 14 10:57 am Link As far as Kodak vs. Ilford goes, I've standardized (mostly) on Ilford materials. I think their quality is as good as you can get today (film, chemistry and paper) and they are dedicated to keeping traditional photography alive (and are quite profitable and growing). Jul 21 14 10:59 am Link When you get your negatives scanned, what kind of files are they? The service I am using returns the files as jpg's, 35mm at 300 dpi. The technician says the negs (actually positive images) would be saved as jpg or bitmap files. I would think that I would want the negs saves as raw or maybe psd. I think it's time for a YouTube video... Jul 22 14 01:00 pm Link Frank Lewis Photography wrote: I scan (myself) to a 16-bit Tiff. Fred has a process he uses to create a 16-bit raw file, but I've never done it. I have, however, scanned a negative twice, once for highlights and once for shadows and then brought them together in PS, but usually that isn't necessary (for me). Jul 22 14 01:07 pm Link Frank Lewis Photography wrote: RAW is kinda meaningless from film via a scanner. Save the file to a lossless format like TIFF or if your software and workflow support it, then PSD is a good way. Don't go with JPG from the scanner; why start off with artifacts and compressed data? Jul 22 14 02:04 pm Link Wait a minute... 35 mm at 300 DPI? If a 35 mm frame is appx one inch, then you'll have a image of 300 pixels. What is important is the resolution of the scan. Someone else mentioned scanning at 3200 which makes a lot of sense. For casual stuff that will not be printed large, I'll scan in 1200 dpi range to save time, but for quality 3000+ is much better. Frank Lewis Photography wrote: Jul 22 14 02:16 pm Link freestylephoto.biz is a good source for film and chemicals. B&H and Adorama also have film and chemicals. Sometimes you can find good deals on ebay. I develop my film in my bathroom and then scan it using and epson v600. Pretty easy stuff once you get a workflow that works for you. Jul 22 14 08:27 pm Link I got my film back the other day. What I have are positive jpgs that are 7.5"x5", 400 pixels/inch. I haven't done anything with them yet because I'm not sure what I should do with the images. The fellow who scanned my film told me that I should be able to enlarge the images to 12x18 without any loss of clarity. I want this to be just like going into the darkroom but on my computer monitor instead. What should I expect? I have looked for a YouTube video explaining this without success. Jul 26 14 07:40 pm Link do an experiment...use a digital camera and the film camera...do the same shots, same conditions, make an evaluation of the effort and time involved, and see what works for you.....if your letting someone else develop your film and giving you digitized shots, you might as well do that your self....if it is art to you....otherwise, buy the highest resolution scanner you can afford and go the middle ground and shoot film, scan it and go from there...mo Jul 26 14 08:05 pm Link Tony-S wrote: Interesting. I've never had a problem with it, nor has my professor. Jul 26 14 09:01 pm Link There are two new images of Lilly Ligotage in my port shot on Ilford XP-2 and lab processed. I dodged and burned in PS and finished them with Topaz BW Effects. The scans had a purple-ish hue to them which is why I finished them in BW Effects to eliminate that. Plus I wanted to keep the images RGB rather than making them grayscale. Jul 26 14 09:13 pm Link Alabaster Crowley wrote: No shit? Really? Who is your Professor? Are you at ASU? Do you know Betsy or Julie? Jul 26 14 09:13 pm Link Honey Stinger wrote: I don't think anything new has been discovered about using stop after the developer and before the fixer. No need to rush off and tell anyone about it. Jul 26 14 09:17 pm Link thank goodness for good cheese and a cold craft beer....this is better than reality tv.... Jul 26 14 09:21 pm Link Schlake wrote: Phew... thanks. I thought I got old and hipsters changed chemistry. Thanks for the piece of mind, brother. Jul 26 14 09:21 pm Link Honey Stinger wrote: And for the record, I've never seen stop damage film. I just double checked my old timing notes, and I didn't wash after the develop, I went straight to the stop. The only rinse was before the so called Orbit. Jul 26 14 09:30 pm Link Schlake wrote: At a Scripps League we used to do B&W tank development. The film from developer into the fix for 5 minutes without any stop bath. Of course we also did 2 minute washes. Hardly archival Jul 26 14 11:17 pm Link Alabaster Crowley wrote: 2 to 4 changes of water is all you need for a stop-bath, save your money. the development process on the emulsion is not a run away train, it's a lava flow. the top pro's have never had a problem with water either ... Jul 27 14 08:23 am Link Stopped into Harmon Photo to visit Herblish (MM#193267) today and scored a 135mm portrait lens, a 28mm wide angle lens and a 2X extender for my ME Super today! It's good to have friends in high places. Also found out today I used the motor-winder wrong. The trigger setting shoulda been set on AUTO and I had it set on 125X, so my first roll of film was under exposed. I'm gonna try again this weekend at our meet & greet, this time with all the settings correct, I hope. Might even shoot a roll of Fuji 160S as well. Found out today that the technician who scanned my first roll did so at the wrong resolution. I'll pay attention to that when I get the next rolls scanned next week. Jul 29 14 07:21 pm Link Honey Stinger wrote: I'm not at ASU. I'd rather not mention my school publicly. If you're that curious, PM me. Jul 29 14 07:33 pm Link Neil Peters Fotografie wrote: I get free chemistry, and I prefer to go the way I'm being taught, by a "top pro," but thanks. Jul 29 14 07:36 pm Link Schlake wrote:
Jul 29 14 07:44 pm Link Film is Dead ! 😂 Jul 29 14 08:41 pm Link gopherlove wrote: So is photography! Jul 30 14 11:31 am Link Tony-S wrote: Alabaster Crowley wrote: I've developed literally thousands of rolls of black and white film using indicator stop bath and haven't had a problem. I find most of what people see as pinholes in the emulsion are caused by either reticulation due to poor temperature control or water spots due to poor agitation. The single greatest thing I did to insure good negatives was giving all my film a 5 minute pre-wet. I now do this not only when using the JOBO to develop but also when hand developing using either dip and dunk systems, hand tanks or tray development. Jul 30 14 12:16 pm Link Giacomo Cirrincioni wrote: What developer(s) do you use? The culprits are those with bicarbonate, such as XTOL. I find most of what people see as pinholes in the emulsion are caused by either reticulation due to poor temperature control or water spots due to poor agitation. I keep the water stop at the same temp as the developer, so it's not reticulation. I have also developed more than a thousand rolls of film, so I'm sure my agitation skills are pretty darn good. The single greatest thing I did to insure good negatives was giving all my film a 5 minute pre-wet. That reduces/eliminates pinholes from air bubbles, but not from from CO2 bubbles that can form on the emulsion from bicarbonate/acetic acid reactions. If you want to see this reaction in action, just add a little baking soda to some vinegar. Jul 30 14 03:28 pm Link gopherlove wrote: Oh, the irony..... Jul 30 14 03:53 pm Link Giacomo Cirrincioni wrote: Yep. Jul 30 14 07:24 pm Link stock up on what ya can find for fuji film. Fujifilm officially discontinued the production of their Color Positive Film, Color Negative Film, B&W Positive/Negative Film, Intermediate Film, Sound Recording Film, and High Contrast Panchromatic Film. Certain chemical products in Japan have been phased out, Fujifilm added in a statement. Their motion picture division will stay open providing products and services used in digital workflow like Recording Film for Digital Separation [ETERNA-RDS] for long-term archiving. Their IS-100 Imaging processing system and Fujinon lens production for digital film cameras and projectors will continue in production. Jul 31 14 12:14 am Link Jul 31 14 12:14 am Link Locutus wrote: After reading the original article I was surprised because I thought Fuji would be staying in the game after Kodak simply because they were recently selling new medium format folding cameras and to withdraw so soon is surprising. I've been using Fuji C200 negative film but if that goes then Kodak's pro film is going to be too expensive for me. Jul 31 14 04:28 am Link Locutus wrote: Where did you read this? Jul 31 14 06:55 am Link I still shoot a bit of film just for the love of it. I develop the roll in my bathroom using an old vinyl backdrop to cover the window. Instead of buying a scanner I shoot the negs on a softbox and invert in photoshop. I only shoot black and white film so its literally 2 shortcut keys in photoshop and you are done. Saves a lot of time and money developing and printing contact sheets. I can then choose which I want to take into the darkroom and go back to darkroom printing... best of both worlds  Aug 01 14 12:47 am Link Water is good to stop development. So will vinegar. For high contrast scenes, you may want to do a 2 step bath, one for shadows and one for highlights. Experiment then standardize your workflow for consistency. Enjoy the journey! Aug 03 14 10:33 am Link Frank Lewis Photography wrote: Yes, keep the film. One, it may last longer than the scans. Two, you may want better scans or find a better way to scan later and need to re-do them. Tony-S wrote: Two points. First, pin holes from stop bath are a result of using too high a concentration of acid to water. With proper concentrations, that doesn't happen. Second, 5 degrees is not a good temperature tolerance and may cause micro reticulation. The normal accepted amount is plus-minus one degree. Joey wrote: Joey means two bath development. Aug 06 14 06:47 pm Link Locutus wrote: Fuji discontinued motion picture film stocks, not still photography film stocks. Aug 07 14 01:00 am Link Acetic acid stop bath does not cause pinholes. Pinholes (that are not really pin holes) are the result of static or emulation defects. Aug 07 14 01:03 am Link Locutus wrote: Not quite. They just discontinued Provia 400X in 120. They are keeping Provia, Velvia, Acros and Pro400. Aug 07 14 03:30 am Link Well, I've run three rolls of film thru my new/old camera. Two rolls of XP-1 and a roll of BW400. Not real happy with the results yet. Been shooting with a yellow filter. Might dispense with that. Most shots seem underexposed. Or maybe because of the yellow filter too contrasty. I'll be posting some images in a couple of days... EDIT: Upon examination the scans of both films are very grainy and very high contrast. I'm not sure that development caused the grain. The high contrast is most likely because of the yellow filter. When I graduate to Tri-X and T-Max I know I'll have more control over development and grain. Aug 08 14 07:08 pm Link Frank Lewis Photography wrote: The yellow filter shouldn't add a lot of contrast, although contrasty is somewhat in the eye of the beholder. Also you should be looking at your negatives not the scans for proper density. A bad scan will add both grain and contrast. Aug 08 14 08:36 pm Link |
