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Forums > Off-Topic Discussion > PA's- matching amps w/speakers, ohms, watts HELP?

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 05:12 pm Link

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roger alan

Posts: 1192

Anderson, Indiana, US

I have live sound experience.

The amp you link to does not appear to have XLR inputs, unless they are on the back which I doubt. Microphones can be divided into two basic types: high-impedance with 1/4" connectors and low-impedance with XLR connectors. The latter is what is used in professional settings from the largest arenas down to the solo artist with an acoustic guitar and one vocal mic.

Also, any amp that old with tubes is likely to need some maintenance. Solid state became predominant somewhere around the 70's and would be considered by most to be more durable. While tube amps are still popular among guitar players (for good reason) and represent a niche in home audio (also for good reason) I would not recommend a tube amp for PA use.

Guitar speaker cabinets would also not be recommended for general PA use because they usually do not have tweeters required to reproduce the high frequencies.

If you would describe your intended use for your PA gear I may be able to offer some additional ideas or opinions.

Jul 19 14 05:25 pm Link

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SayCheeZ!

Posts: 20621

Las Vegas, Nevada, US

As with any amplifier, using a lower power amp that's continually peaking will blow a speaker, but if you're peaking often you'll probably hear the result as distortion before it blows anyway.

Any speaker can handle practically any wattage, it's just the duration that's the factor.

Jul 19 14 05:27 pm Link

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Lohkee

Posts: 14028

Maricopa, Arizona, US

cineselectric salon wrote:
Any amp techs in the house?

I'm possibly getting a Contessa 55-R P.A. head.   It's 50 watts, tube.
Here it is:
http://bartell.vintageusaguitars.com/in … sa_pa_55r/

Does anyone have any ideas for speakers for this?  Most modern PA speakers are rated much higher wattage - around 250 watts.  People have been telling me using the lower powered (50 watt) head will result in blown speakers.

I'm thinking of getting some guitar speaker cabinets to use with it.  I just don't know what to do.

Using a speakers that can handle more power than the amp can deliver will not hurt the speakers.

Using speakers not rated at the correct ohms can (will) cause problems with the amp. IIRC that amp requires 8ohm speakers but I could be wrong - it's been a long time. It should say on the rear panel where the speakers plug in.

Jul 19 14 05:33 pm Link

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Lohkee

Posts: 14028

Maricopa, Arizona, US

SayCheeZ!  wrote:
As with any amplifier, using a lower power amp that's continually peaking will blow a speaker, but if you're peaking often you'll probably hear the result as distortion before it blows anyway.

Any speaker can handle practically any wattage, it's just the duration that's the factor.

News to me.

Jul 19 14 05:35 pm Link

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Shadow Dancer

Posts: 9777

Bellingham, Washington, US

Mild distortion from turning up the 50 watt amplifier will not blow PA speakers that are designed to handle 250 watts. Cranking it up all the way is probably fine except it will not sound "nice".

If you were doing sound for a deathpunk band it might be just what they need.

If this is not intended for high volume/large venues then it should be fine and even sound clean and warm.

Expect to have this serviced unless they are guaranteeing that it has already been done. The capacitors and grid resistors are usually the first components to fry, the tube sockets may need replacement and the output tubes will eventually wear out in all amplifiers.

As was pointed out, this is probably a high impedance system. You can use line transformers to convert low impedance mics to high impedance, some gain is lost but this will make the amplifier cleaner sounding at the expense of overall volume.

In any case, this might be better re-purposed as a guitar amplifier, there are plenty of tube weirdos all over the world who could rewire it into an nice head for lead guitar work.

Jul 19 14 05:38 pm Link

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Shadow Dancer

Posts: 9777

Bellingham, Washington, US

Lohkee wrote:

News to me.

All he really said there is "all speakers can be blown, just a matter of how long it takes".

Like the time I hit one note with an Ampeg SVT head dimed (my friend turned it all the way up, unknown to me) through a 2-12" open-back cabinet with cheap speakers. The cones shot forward mightily, once. Then there was a puff of yellow smoke. Not even a frequency, you need a full oscillation to determine frequency.

Jul 19 14 05:41 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 05:45 pm Link

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Shadow Dancer

Posts: 9777

Bellingham, Washington, US

cineselectric salon wrote:

I would be mostly using it for jamming & rehearsals. Running a vocal mic or two, occasionally mic-ing an acoustic guitar.  And maybe mic-ing an acoustic piano.

How loud do you usually play?

Jul 19 14 05:47 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 05:49 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 05:51 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 05:55 pm Link

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Lohkee

Posts: 14028

Maricopa, Arizona, US

Shadow Dancer wrote:
All he really said there is "all speakers can be blown, just a matter of how long it takes".

I took what he said "Any speaker can handle practically any wattage, it's just the duration that's the factor" at face value. Perhaps I read it wrong. I, for one, would not want to hook a 5W speaker up to a 200W amp. It's possible that it may survive 200W for a short amount of time, but I sure wouldn't put any money on it. tongue

I also disagree with his comments on clipping. That is, after all, exactly what a "fuzz box" is designed to do - turn a sine wave into a square wave by using a high-gain pre-amp and two diodes to to clip the input signal. One could also achieve the same affect by simply over-driving the input stage of the amp.

Jul 19 14 05:56 pm Link

Jul 19 14 05:56 pm Link

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Shadow Dancer

Posts: 9777

Bellingham, Washington, US

cineselectric salon wrote:

Not too loud, mostly folksy country americana-ish stuff.
And maybe 60ish garage rock... which might get louder, but might sound better with relatively underpowerd gear?

I guess you will find out soon enough!

The tweeters on most modern PA speakers are usually pretty well protected.

Try turning the amp to the desired volume with the treble control turned down, then dial in a reasonable amount of treble and see how it sounds. Probably a safer approach most of the time in any case.

Jul 19 14 05:58 pm Link

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Lohkee

Posts: 14028

Maricopa, Arizona, US

cineselectric salon wrote:

That's what the guys at the guitar stores were telling me when I was asking about their PA speakers they had for sale.  But none of them had any suggestions about what speakers were available that I could use.  Maybe I'll have to look for vintage speakers?

You really need to talk to a technician, or just look at the back of the amp. It should tell you the correct speaker impedance.

Jul 19 14 05:59 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 06:02 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 06:04 pm Link

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Shadow Dancer

Posts: 9777

Bellingham, Washington, US

Lohkee wrote:

I took what he said "Any speaker can handle practically any wattage, it's just the duration that's the factor" at face value. Perhaps I read it wrong. I, for one, would not want to hook a 5W speaker up to a 200W amp. It's possible that it may survive 200W for a short amount of time, but I sure wouldn't put any money on it. tongue

I also disagree with his comments on clipping. That is, after all, exactly what a "fuzz box" is designed to do - turn a sine wave into a square wave by using a high-gain pre-amp and two diodes to to clip the input signal. One could also achieve the same affect by simply over-driving the input stage of the amp.

I took what he said at face value as well, just translated it into English.

Yes, a 5 watt speaker can handle 200 watts easily for the duration required to destroy the voice coil with heat and/or pummel the spider out of alignment.

My guess would be a duration measured in fractions of a second.

A guitar or voice with a fuzz box will blow a tweeter if it is loud enough which is all anybody has been saying in the first place. When current exceeds heat dissipation, physical components will experience catastrophic failure.

Jul 19 14 06:04 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 06:10 pm Link

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Lohkee

Posts: 14028

Maricopa, Arizona, US

cineselectric salon wrote:
Thanks for all the replies..

Does anyone know what kind of P.A. speakers were used by the common man "back in the day" (mid to late 60's, early 70's)?

Celestions were very common. Also all kinds of generic OEM stuff.

Jul 19 14 06:17 pm Link

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Shadow Dancer

Posts: 9777

Bellingham, Washington, US

cineselectric salon wrote:
Thanks for all the replies..

Does anyone know what kind of P.A. speakers were used by the common man "back in the day" (mid to late 60's, early 70's)?

Yes, two types predominated.

Altec Voice of the Theater. These were a horn loaded 15" speaker with a GIANT cabinet and a large tweeter horn mounted on top. Huge, heavy and sounded like a vacuum cleaner in a tunnel because the crossover was set too low.

PA columns - typically a vertical array of 4 8" or 10" speakers in a box. No tweeters. Sounded pretty OK at low volumes if you had the treble up and vocals only.

A modern system with a single 10" and tweeter will blow both of those systems off the face of the earth. Even the single 8" speakers are pretty amazing if you get the good stuff. Small, fairly light, full range fidelity and much louder than you would ever expect. Not cheap for good ones, I have used the top line EV and Yamaha 8" two ways and they are jaw dropping for their size. Both had built-in amplifiers, all that was needed was a mixing board.

Jul 19 14 06:18 pm Link

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Michael Bots

Posts: 8020

Kingston, Ontario, Canada

cineselectric salon wrote:
Thanks for all the replies..

Does anyone know what kind of P.A. speakers were used by the common man "back in the day" (mid to late 60's, early 70's)?

Won't really matter - speakers of that era didn't sound anywhere near as good as current product and they have a limited lifespan anyway. Just pick something with 8 ohm impedance that sounds right to you..

Speakers commonly dropped from 8 ohms to 4 so that power ratings could be increased without boosting amplifier voltage.
Volts x Amps = Watts

Solid state equivalent of the output section (modular) (less preamp, less power supply)  I know it won'r sound the same as a tube amp.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TDA7492-D-Class … 1267388674

Jul 19 14 06:22 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 06:26 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 06:28 pm Link

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MerrillMedia

Posts: 8736

New Orleans, Louisiana, US

If the price is right, I would buy it regardless of the issue of what your current needs are. Contessa amps are apparently rare and sought after. They were offered by Hoener and most seem to have been made by Bartell, for Hoener. It could possibly be worth a lot of money.

Jul 19 14 06:28 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 06:32 pm Link

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Lohkee

Posts: 14028

Maricopa, Arizona, US

cineselectric salon wrote:

I've seen those before.  Were they British?

No. Most mfgs of speaker enclosures to not actually design and build their own speakers. They just use off-the-shelf parts from other people and assemble them the way they think best.

Jul 19 14 06:34 pm Link

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Shadow Dancer

Posts: 9777

Bellingham, Washington, US

cineselectric salon wrote:
I've seen those before.  Were they British?

In Europe you would have used Celestion, Rola and many other drivers.

In the USA, primarily Altec Lansing, JBL, Electro-Voice, Jensen, Eminence, Utah and CTS made speakers for PA/guitar/bass/keyboards.

None of them were worth a crap compared to what is available now.

Edit per Lohkee's post. I am referring to the drivers (raw frame speakers). The cabinets were made by Fender, Gibson, Altec and many, many others.

Plus, there was Traynor gear. I don't recall the speaker brand but it was Canadian made and equivalent to the US/European stuff.

Jul 19 14 06:38 pm Link

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roger alan

Posts: 1192

Anderson, Indiana, US

cineselectric salon wrote:
I would be mostly using it for jamming & rehearsals. Running a vocal mic or two, occasionally mic-ing an acoustic guitar.  And maybe mic-ing an acoustic piano.

For use as a guitar amp that amp has definite potential. Still, very possible that it may have issues as described above. If you are able to try it out and all seems fine, and the price is good, then it may be worth a gamble if you have discretionary funds.  But even if it seems OK now, it could easily develop issues that could cost much more than the price of the amp itself to repair.

For PA type use, i.e. micing vocals, acoustics, pianos, guitar cabinets, etc I would strongly advise low-impedance (XLR type) microphones and a PA with XLR inputs.

If you were in the US, I would recommend Shure SM57 and/or SM58 mics (good performers, extremely rugged, inexpensive, industry standard) and a 200-500 watt small PA head (pre-amp, amp combined) by Peavey or Mackie. On the scale were are talking, the most common pro-type speakers would typically have a horn tweeter and (usually) a 15" woofer. Peavey, Yamaha, Community would be good brands for inexpensive, fairly well performing, and very durable speakers. You need "full-range" (i.e. has some type of tweeter) to do  justice to a piano, vocals, etc.

Durability IS a significant factor since (hopefully) the gear will get moved back and forth to gigs which means also getting loaded into and out of some type of vehicle twice for each adventure. Sometimes friends (non-owners of said gear) and/or alcohol might be involved. Pro type PA gear, even at the bottom levels, is ruggedly built.

I would have no idea what brands of gear you would have floating around  the used market in Italy. But I would be surprised if the basic designs of such gear was much different there.

As far as "ohms" (aka impedance) go it is not too difficult. Every amp and speaker should have a value printed on it. It will either say "ohms" (or possibly the Italian translation) or it will have the omega symbol (looks like a horse shoe). By far the most common values seen are 4 ohms and 8 ohms. For the speakers this value simply states the impedance (in ohms) of that speaker. For an amp that value indicates the minimum acceptable speaker load impedance in ohms.

It is the amp, not the speakers, that would be vulnerable in the case of a mismatch. For solid state amps (NOT tube), the lower the value of the speaker load the harder the amp is forced to work. When you add a second speaker to a channel of an amp, the speaker load impedance goes down. For example, if you have 8-ohm speakers and you connect two of them to a single amp channel, the speaker load impedance seen by that amp channel would be 4 ohms.

Speakers are most often rated at 8-ohms. Amps are most often able to handle down to 4-ohms load. But there are exceptions. Also, I am talking about gear common in the US, don't know about Europe. So be sure to check whatever you end up buying or using.

Jul 19 14 06:43 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

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VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 07:02 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 07:07 pm Link

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Lohkee

Posts: 14028

Maricopa, Arizona, US

You want what you want and there's nothing wrong with that at all. Personally I would go with a decent solid state amp (with built in EQ) and some Yamaha speakers.

Way back in the day I was an electronics R & D engineer designing pro audio products (mixing boards and sound modifiers such as phase-sifters, delays, fuzz boxes, etc). I also did some stints as a repair technician (primarily warrant work on old Fender & Phase Liner gear).

The reason I mention this is because technicians familiar with component-level repair on this type of gear are becoming a very rare breed. Schematics can be a real bitch to find (if you can even find them), and the parts can be off-the-charts expensive, especially if you want to keep the gear original which can be almost impossible to do anymore.

Basically, follow your heart and have fun but realize that even a simple set-up can be very expensive to maintain or repair.

FWIW.

Jul 19 14 07:08 pm Link

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roger alan

Posts: 1192

Anderson, Indiana, US

cineselectric salon wrote:

oops, my apologies are in order... I don't actually live in Italy, I set my location for there in advance of an upcoming trip there.  I forgot I had done that.  I'm in the U.S.

In that case...Shure/Peavey/Yamaha/Mackie might just be your friends. Traynor was mentioned in this thread and I have good feelings about them too. I believe they have been referred to as the Canadian Peavey...or something like that.

BTW, Peavy is a brand that may be snickered at by those at the upper levels of the sound reproduction world. But it is a brand that has, for decades, produced better than decent quality, very rugged and affordable gear. While it also competes at the upper levels, it is more well known as working class gear. The used market in the US will likely have more Peavey stuff available than any other brand. It is almost like an alternate form of currency, lol.

Jul 19 14 07:14 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 07:16 pm Link

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Lohkee

Posts: 14028

Maricopa, Arizona, US

roger alan wrote:

In that case...Shure/Peavey/Yamaha/Mackie might just be your friends. Traynor was mentioned in this thread and I have good feelings about them too. I believe they have been referred to as the Canadian Peavey...or something like that.

BTW, Peavy is a brand that may be snickered at by those at the upper levels of the sound reproduction world. But it is a brand that has, for decades, produced better than decent quality, very rugged and affordable gear. While it also competes at the upper levels, it is more well known as working class gear. The used market in the US will likely have more Peavey stuff available than any other brand. It is almost like an alternate form of currency, lol.

I've worked on a few Peaveys. I always thought they had a very nice build quality.

Jul 19 14 07:27 pm Link

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Shadow Dancer

Posts: 9777

Bellingham, Washington, US

roger alan wrote:

In that case...Shure/Peavey/Yamaha/Mackie might just be your friends. Traynor was mentioned in this thread and I have good feelings about them too. I believe they have been referred to as the Canadian Peavey...or something like that.

BTW, Peavy is a brand that may be snickered at by those at the upper levels of the sound reproduction world. But it is a brand that has, for decades, produced better than decent quality, very rugged and affordable gear. While it also competes at the upper levels, it is more well known as working class gear. The used market in the US will likely have more Peavey stuff available than any other brand. It is almost like an alternate form of currency, lol.

Plus a million on the Peavey statements. The resale value of Peavey gear is far lower than it should be, creating a bargain opportunity. Keep your eyes open, craigslist, pawn shops, music stores, antique stores - I've bought Peavey gear in all those places and also at yard sales.

My current PA is a Mackie all in one with 6 channels and a pair of Peavey 12" 2-way speakers. Craigslist - Dad bought it for his kids and they all moved away. $150 for all three pieces. Work horse, always sounds good, takes a beating, if it dies I'll just toss it and get more.

Jul 19 14 07:30 pm Link

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Shadow Dancer

Posts: 9777

Bellingham, Washington, US

cineselectric salon wrote:

This is what I really want. 
https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=98266&stc=1

Kustom Series 300. Supposedly, Johnny Cash used it:
http://www.kustom.com/MessageCenterDeta … entID=1403

I've used gear like that, it's not really all that great. Looks totally cool though!!!!

You will never get that crisp, defined sound that makes you feel like it's easy to sing.

Jul 19 14 07:41 pm Link

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cineselectric salon

Posts: 770

VERBENA, Alabama, US

Jul 19 14 07:43 pm Link

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GK photo

Posts: 31025

Laguna Beach, California, US

with what is readily available these days in the solid state world (for pa amps), i don't know why you'd want to bother with an ancient tube amp. do yourself a favor, and just get a ss pa amp. you won't need to worry about impedance issues, and you can get quite a few watts for your buck. 

it may not "look" cool, but it will be far more efficient, lighter, and easier to maintain.

more tube guitar/pa/amps/speakers have been fried due to the user's lack of knowledge of watts/ohms and impedance.

Jul 21 14 04:01 pm Link