Forums > Digital Art and Retouching > What's your best way to fix skin tones?

Retoucher

Delicate Editing

Posts: 152

London, England, United Kingdom

Hi all,

I just skipped through some photo retouching work in this forum and i've seen some amazing work smile
I'm a photo retoucher as well but sometimes i still struggle with finding the best way to adjust skin tones and make them look natural. I think i haven't found the best way yet...

What are your ways and tipps to fix skin tones? Are there any filters or photoshop actions you can recommend? I would be very thankful to learn from you and maybe even see some photo examples...


Many thanks,

Nadine

Aug 10 09 06:50 am Link

Photographer

Quoc Cong QC

Posts: 322

Santa Ana, California, US

When you find one, let me know. I feel the same way. I am going to have to keep any eye on this post because someone might have figure out what to do every time.

QC Cong
www.xophotography.net

Aug 10 09 06:56 am Link

Photographer

shutterbug6401

Posts: 855

Newport News, Virginia, US

XO Photography wrote:
When you find one, let me know. I feel the same way. I am going to have to keep any eye on this post because someone might have figure out what to do every time.

QC Cong
www.xophotography.net

+1

Aug 10 09 07:02 am Link

Retoucher

Delicate Editing

Posts: 152

London, England, United Kingdom

Looks like the skin tone questions is one of the hardest in the photo retouching field smile

What technique do you use at the moment?
I generally use the "selective colour correction" or reduce the saturation a little...

Aug 10 09 07:03 am Link

Photographer

Robert Mosbach

Posts: 56

Stockholm, Stockholm, Sweden

It's not good perhaps .. but for a generic fix .. my default approach would be to reduce the red and yellow saturations a bit ..  selective colors are sometimes also useful.

Aug 10 09 07:16 am Link

Photographer

William Jay

Posts: 405

Phoenix, Arizona, US

One step in the process I use is a plug in called ASF Digital Airbrush Pro.  It is a company now owned by Kodak.  It's about $100.  It has a percentage scale to smooth skin.  If you want the Barbie doll plastic effect then use 100%, if you want to keep it looking real then about 30% works.  It preserves skin texture to a great extent.  To avoid cotton candy hair you must lasso all skin areas first so that the filter only affects the skin areas and not clothing, backgrounds and especially hair.  I like to keep it looking real and plausible.  BTW, I do this without layers (I know, I know, I should be using layers much more.)

Aug 10 09 07:27 am Link

Retoucher

Delicate Editing

Posts: 152

London, England, United Kingdom

@ William Jay

Thanks for your reply. Your technique is more for skin smoothing isn't it?
I'm more interested in how to create great and natural looking skin tones...

Thanks still smile

Aug 10 09 09:16 am Link

Photographer

William Jay

Posts: 405

Phoenix, Arizona, US

You read more into my answer than was there.  The step I mentioned is not the only thing I do to skin.  I commented that it helped preserve skin texture, an important ingredient in skin color tone also.  If the lighting used is not custom white balanced in camera for complete color tonal range then there will be a problem that has to be addressed in PP.  A professional MUA can go a long way to lessening this problem also.

You have a couple examples of before and after in your port where you did a wonderful job of adjusting color tone that gave the model much more pleasing skin color.

I think we are on the same course to wonderfully balanced skin tones.  Whatever steps you are using certainly are working!

Aug 10 09 11:56 am Link

Retoucher

Retoucher

Posts: 199

Los Angeles, California, US

There are some really good books for the retouching of skin.


  I personally use the curves adjustment layer to correct skin color, and if there are some patches of redness I can use the select> color range  to grab them and bring them down a bit to more of a natural color using curves again.

- Phen

Aug 10 09 12:20 pm Link

Photographer

TMA Photo and Training

Posts: 1009

Lancaster, Pennsylvania, US

Ive been constantly searching as well. 

Getting the skin looking naturally blemish free is fairly straight forward using the healing brush for a natural look at stage one. 

For a more idealized look, smoothing and blending and color harmonizing the skin colors and the surface with the equivalent of electronic foundation (surface blur) is also good. 

But... for the more detailed and natural looks in a reasonable amount of time....time ive had to resort to taking skin pores off of one perfect model... and then transferring them to the model im working on presently.  Ive got a library of skin pore textures saved up over time that allows me to add the skin pore textures back into areas that I have had to smudge, or to clone out, or to fix up.  It makes the smoothed over area look natural again because there are visible pores back in the covered up part. 

Its a marvelous compromise...who wants to spend 2-6 hours doing a dodge and burn to every good looking image in your shop. The trend is that fewer have the budget or the large block of time for a pristine treatment these days.

Ray

Aug 10 09 01:00 pm Link

Photographer

Marcus J. Ranum

Posts: 3247

MORRISDALE, Pennsylvania, US

I zoom in to 100% and then just go over every single pixel of skin surface with heal brush, patch tool, and clone brush (with transparency) and fix it. It's time consuming but the short cuts don't cut it.

Aug 10 09 01:16 pm Link

Photographer

PREVOYEZ RED

Posts: 26

Charlotte, North Carolina, US

Delicate Editing wrote:
Hi all,

I just skipped through some photo retouching work in this forum and i've seen some amazing work smile
I'm a photo retoucher as well but sometimes i still struggle with finding the best way to adjust skin tones and make them look natural. I think i haven't found the best way yet...

What are your ways and tipps to fix skin tones? Are there any filters or photoshop actions you can recommend? I would be very thankful to learn from you and maybe even see some photo examples...


Many thanks,
GEEZ there so many.. standard adjusting or a plugins;maybe even skin brushes..
1st thing you wanna start off with a good MUA. :~)  makes it a little less problematic
Just wanna change the tone use color adjustment option.

Nadine

Aug 20 09 08:11 pm Link

Retoucher

Elle May

Posts: 102

Manchester, England, United Kingdom

Marcus J. Ranum wrote:
I zoom in to 100% and then just go over every single pixel of skin surface with heal brush, patch tool, and clone brush (with transparency) and fix it. It's time consuming but the short cuts don't cut it.

I do this in combination with dodge and burn, but usually at 200-400%. The healing brush, clone tool and patch tool will take care of blemishes, but if you want to take care of evening out skin tone you have more limited options. For me DB is the best. I do this on a pixel level as well as over the whole image. Painting the skin to even out tones and give a different lighting so the face doesn't look so flat is really important to me. Sometimes you'll find that after pixel DB you have one even tone, but you want to add more dimension to the lighting.

My best advice is to play with skin colour tones using the Curves new adjustment layer. You can do overall adjustments to the whole RGB of the image, or you can go into the box above and pick different colours. If your skin looks too red, go into the Red option and adjust the curves there. Or the Blue option pulled down will give you decent yellow tones. Then you should create a new layer on Soft Light mode with the 50% grey option ticked. Use a soft brush at a very low opacity (I use about 12-15%) to paint in the skin. White = dodge and the lightning of skin, black = burn and the darkening of skin. If you understand how light should hit the face, this will be a great aspect to your work. When I'm done doing subtle lighting and evening out of tone, I tend to set that layer to a Gaussian blur. How strong it is is up to you.

Aug 20 09 08:27 pm Link

Retoucher

Jessica Loewen Retouch

Posts: 719

Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada

I usually do it by eye.  Once you do it for a while you can usually pick out exactly whats wrong with the image.  Every image is different, so theres no real way to say "just slide down the red" or "reduce opacity" because some images will have to much magenta, some will have too little yellow, etc.  Just keep MM open to a good photographer's page while you adjust and see if your edit looks "real" in terms of skin tone.  if it looks out of place keep trying.

Aug 20 09 08:36 pm Link

Photographer

awardagency

Posts: 50

Los Angeles, California, US

sort of a global color reset..?

when i'm in a hurry i make a new adjustment layer and grab the grey eye dropper. i click around until i find a place that sets a nice skin tone rather than messing with sliders endlessly...it turns out to be fairly efficient once you start looking in the right areas (if it's not a raw file).

i wish every digital photo had the artwork color bar embedded in the frame so you could pop out and do a quick color match for red, blue, whatever...

Aug 20 09 08:37 pm Link

Digital Artist

Michael C Pearson

Posts: 1349

Agoura Hills, California, US

I like to separate the detail from the overall tones/values, then use portraiture plugin on a duplicate of the tones/values layer, then invert the mask and paint it on to the areas that need work. This just took a couple minutes, and I was trying to keep it as natural as possible (I also did some quick cloning on the detail layer). You could make the skin tones much more even, but it starts looking fake.

https://a0.vox.com/6a0110184cd071860f011016832c98860c-pi

If they're paying enough, pixel level dodge and burn will give you superior results.

Aug 21 09 12:36 am Link

Photographer

Phil Drinkwater

Posts: 4814

Manchester, England, United Kingdom

For me it starts with your RAW stage and ends with use of colour balance, selective colour, working with brightness and tones, saturation and vibrance etc... The most common thing I see if too brown/yellow and too high saturation. This image is meant to be fairly cold in tone btw..

I think this is one of the more "natural" skin tone looks that I have produced, although obviously pictures look different on different monitors... (so not asking for a crit on this wink )

In the end, you need a well calibrated monitor, a good eye and the tools to accurately change the image in the way you need to.

https://modelmayhm-3.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/090821/01/4a8e60660c1bb.jpg

Aug 21 09 01:55 am Link

Digital Artist

Michael C Pearson

Posts: 1349

Agoura Hills, California, US

Here's a critique whether you like it or not:

It's spectacular! It's making my non-color corrected post look eye-bleedingly orange/red. Love how you've gone with the powerful lip and natural eye. I see lot's of retouchers throwing both a dramatic eye and lip onto retouches even though the MUA kept one or the other natural, and it looks tacky.

Aug 21 09 02:31 am Link

Photographer

Photons 2 Pixels Images

Posts: 17011

Berwick, Pennsylvania, US

I start with a separation as outlined in the Highpass Thread and even out the skin tones on the Low Frequency layer. This gets rid of a lot of the blotchiness. Then I clone any detail that went missing on the High Frequency layer where needed.

Then I'll adjust for contrast and while I'm doing that I'll set up a curves and a hue/saturation layer. Sometimes more than one of each. I'll go one at a time with them and adjust each one until the areas with bad tones look right. Then I invert the mask and paint back in with low opacity brush on the mask. If it still doesn't look quite right, I go to the next adjustment layer and do some more.

I also like to use a color balance layer for overall tones.

Aug 21 09 02:52 am Link

Digital Artist

Michael C Pearson

Posts: 1349

Agoura Hills, California, US

Yeah, that's very similar to my workflow.

Although it's not really about the tones of the skin but the values, I like to dodge and burn on the coarse detail (low frequency) layer to enhance the contouring. Might as well while you're there, right?

Aug 21 09 03:03 am Link

Photographer

Angel Afterlife

Posts: 317

Hobart, Tasmania, Australia

There's something called a gray card...

it's even more effective if you can figure out what "custom white balance" means...

makeup artists are essential...

oh, and shoot models from Elite

Aug 21 09 03:08 am Link

Digital Artist

Michael C Pearson

Posts: 1349

Agoura Hills, California, US

nevermind

Aug 21 09 03:13 am Link

Photographer

Phil Drinkwater

Posts: 4814

Manchester, England, United Kingdom

Brett Michael Nelson wrote:
There's something called a gray card...

it's even more effective if you can figure out what "custom white balance" means...

makeup artists are essential...

In my experience grey cards can be good, but they won't get you *good skin tones*. That's down to the retouch and careful balance of tones, red, green and blue (or whatever) in the highlights, midtones and shadows separately, plus a lot of other stuff. It's a starting point, but it will only get you 40% of the way there. The sublety is in more than just white balance.

Custom white balance is only really of use for JPEG. Otherwise you might as well do it in RAW later and set the white balance using a dropper IMO.

Aug 21 09 03:53 am Link

Photographer

Kevin Russo Photography

Posts: 2258

Runnemede, New Jersey, US

Phil Drinkwater wrote:
Custom white balance is only really of use for JPEG. Otherwise you might as well do it in RAW later and set the white balance using a dropper IMO.

This not correct, custom white balance is really the only way to get proper color, without a color meter and exact color temp.

When you open the RAW processor you leave the white balance setting on "As shot"

Aug 21 09 04:06 am Link

Photographer

Sean Baker Photo

Posts: 8044

San Antonio, Texas, US

Phil Drinkwater wrote:
Custom white balance is only really of use for JPEG. Otherwise you might as well do it in RAW later and set the white balance using a dropper IMO.

Kevin Russo Photography wrote:
This not correct, custom white balance is really the only way to get proper color, without a color meter and exact color temp.

When you open the RAW processor you leave the white balance setting on "As shot"

I think we're failing to adequately differentiate between a gray / GM card and a custom white balance.  A gray / GM card will allow you to set perfect scene neutrality in post without any loss of quality or color profiling, while a custom white balance will set the gray value at the time of capture.  Only when shooting JPEG is there a quality difference between them, otherwise it's simply a personal workflow question.

Aug 21 09 04:14 am Link

Digital Artist

Eithne Ni Anluain

Posts: 1424

Dundalk, Louth, Ireland

Michelle Ames wrote:
My best advice is to play with skin colour tones using the Curves new adjustment layer. You can do overall adjustments to the whole RGB of the image, or you can go into the box above and pick different colours.

Mines very similar to this, except I'll "selective colour" areas and give them their own layers so each can be edited individually. Surface blur then high pass filters after. This is after the tedious clone/heal brush at around 200-400% depending on the areas. The curves is so handy especially if you fill the mask with black for taking out shadows/add highlights.

Then I'll apply the high pass sharpening filters once when the skin is "cleaned" (as described above after the surface blurs) and before the final adjustment layers and once again at the end on a merged copy of the whole re-touch. That way I've found that the skin texture is preserved really well.

Excellent thread coz we all can make refinements to our workflow if needed and as someone said (I apologise I cant remember who) each image is different and will need individual application of skillz! lol

Aug 21 09 04:33 am Link

Photographer

Phil Drinkwater

Posts: 4814

Manchester, England, United Kingdom

Kevin Russo Photography wrote:
This not correct, custom white balance is really the only way to get proper color, without a color meter and exact color temp.

When you open the RAW processor you leave the white balance setting on "As shot"

Confused... Do you mean that the eye dropper in a RAW processor will not do the same job as "custom white balance" in your camera? If so, I suspect you're incorrect...

Or do you mean a grey card? Are you confusing that with "custom white balance" which is a function in your camera?

Or something else?

Aug 21 09 04:41 am Link

Photographer

Kevin Russo Photography

Posts: 2258

Runnemede, New Jersey, US

Phil Drinkwater wrote:

Confused... Do you mean that the eye dropper in a RAW processor will not do the same job as "custom white balance" in your camera? If so, I suspect you're incorrect...

Or do you mean a grey card? Are you confusing that with "custom white balance" which is a function in your camera?

Or something else?

Try it yourself, there is a difference. You can decide which one you like better.

Kevin Russo -Photographer

Aug 21 09 04:44 am Link

Photographer

Sean Baker Photo

Posts: 8044

San Antonio, Texas, US

Kevin Russo Photography wrote:
Try it yourself, there is a difference. You can decide which one you like better.

Kevin Russo -Photographer

Again Kevin, there is no difference.  The data are identical whether the WB is set in camera or in post.  The only way you may see one is if you're using a RAW converter which doesn't allow adjustment of the M / G casts, in which case you can see a considerable shift.  LR allows for one allows making this adjustment and as such produces identical results.

Aug 21 09 04:48 am Link

Photographer

Phil Drinkwater

Posts: 4814

Manchester, England, United Kingdom

Kevin Russo Photography wrote:
Try it yourself, there is a difference. You can decide which one you like better.

Kevin Russo -Photographer

Then I assume you mean the eye dropper in RAW vs. the custom white balance setting in camera. I suppose some camera might have a poor custom white balance function which could explain the difference? Nikons might get it spot on but Canons might be a bit out for example. But the RAW processor will do the same for all types and models of camera, and it should be accurate...

I will try it sometime. I presume you have checked which one comes through with a value of true grey for the grey card? ie. the R, G and B values are equal for the brightness of the GC that you selected on both?

I can't think where the difference between the two would come from. It makes no sense, which is why I'm struggling with the concept. The mathematical function to set white balance should be the same in both the camera and RAW converter...??? Why would either of them get it wrong?

Aug 21 09 04:50 am Link

Photographer

Fun City Photo

Posts: 1552

Stuttgart, Baden-Württemberg, Germany

Delicate Editing wrote:
I'm a photo retoucher as well but sometimes i still struggle with finding the best way to adjust skin tones and make them look natural. I think i haven't found the best way yet...
What are your ways and tipps to fix skin tones?

The subject most likely makes photographers weak in the knees. I guess 90% of all customer complaints are related to skin tones.
It's not about color accuracy. When it comes to skin, it's about a pleasing tone.
I build a catalog with values of skin colors for all ethnicities and use it in post.
A fair-skinned Caucasian adult could be as low as 20% magenta, 25% yellow. A bronzed Caucasian could be as high as 45% magenta, 62% yellow.
Asian and Hispanic skin will typically have 10-20% higher yellow than magenta.
Here is how to do this:
Open the Info Palette. Forget about the RGB values look at the CMYK values.
Set your Eyedropper's sample size to 5x5 Average. Switch to CMYK and select the Yellow channel. Hold dopwn the Ctrl (Mac Command) and the Shift keys and click on a representative skin color like the forehead. Ttype 30% into the place for output.
Then switch to the magenta channel and type 24% in the space for output. Finally,  type 8% for cyan output. Switch back to RGB.
Of course those values are given as an example yours will vary drastically.

Aug 21 09 01:01 pm Link

Retoucher

Pedro P Polakoff III

Posts: 280

Fairfax, Virginia, US

I can't say it's the "Best" way but this is my method:

1st step in processing any image is to assure correct color balance which includes skin.  To do this I ad a threshold layer and push it all the way to black util the smallest spec of black I can possibly use is visible.  I then control click with the dropper tomark that spot, reverse the process and do the same with the white point. Discard the layer leaving the marks behind and add a curves layer. Using the marked black point & white point I set the curves with the samplers and then flatten the image before using my standard action to prepare it for editing. Using this method you are guaranteed of a perfect color balance every time.

I then cheat a bit using Imogenics Portraiture plug-in with my own customized settings in a group where I combine the basic portrait settings (tweaked of course) and the glamor settings (again tweaked) into a group.  I fade the opacity of the glamor layer to between 2-40% to taste and then merge the group.  Clean up using masks on the layers and the group itself, andthen merge the group and fade it's opacity to taste.

From there you can tweak things. My preferred method of dealing with skin tones is to have a hues/saturation layer with a mask.  I desaturate between 10 & 20 and then restore the color to the eyes, lips, hair, makeup,& clothing by brushing the mask with at 20% flow / 20% opacity to restore the saturation in those areas to taste.

Textures are maintained in the skin by my initial setup action which utilizes an LAB sharpen to avoid screwing with the color.

Aug 21 09 01:50 pm Link

Retoucher

Aphoristic Precise

Posts: 290

Los Angeles, California, US

Woah, what are you all doing to your photos?

All I do is throw a curves layer on top of the photo and use selective color to remove reds. Occasionally I'll color correct with a gray card.

I never d&b past 100%, I rarely even go past 70%. And I rarely use the healing tool.

Aug 21 09 02:24 pm Link

Retoucher

Glamour Retouch

Posts: 900

Columbia, South Carolina, US

Delicate Editing wrote:
@ William Jay

Thanks for your reply. Your technique is more for skin smoothing isn't it?
I'm more interested in how to create great and natural looking skin tones...

Thanks still smile

I feel that most responses have misunderstood the OP question. He is asking for Skin Tones not skin smoothing techniques.

Aug 21 09 02:35 pm Link

Photographer

Rafael Telles

Posts: 1375

Brampton, Ontario, Canada

Aphoristic Precise wrote:
And I rarely use the healing tool.

Wow, first time I hear this... I envy that you work with models with perfect skin smile

EDIT: Disregard I just checked your port and you had to do skin healing, unless of course you only use clone tool tongue

https://modelmayhm-9.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/090402/14/49d534d15632f_m.jpg

Aug 21 09 02:51 pm Link

Retoucher

Aphoristic Precise

Posts: 290

Los Angeles, California, US

Rafael Telles wrote:

Wow, first time I hear this... I envy that you work with models with perfect skin smile

EDIT: Disregard I just checked your port and you had to do skin healing, unless of course you only use clone tool tongue

https://modelmayhm-9.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/090402/14/49d534d15632f_m.jpg

In comparison to those who use nothing BUT the healing tool, I meant! For moles, nothing else.

Aug 21 09 04:11 pm Link

Retoucher

Sunny Baker

Posts: 15

Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

I got this link in an email a while ago, it can be helpful, although I find it can also be very hit-or-miss.  It's worth a try.
http://digital-photography-school.com/p … ill-layers

Aug 21 09 05:51 pm Link

Photographer

Photons 2 Pixels Images

Posts: 17011

Berwick, Pennsylvania, US

mikedimples wrote:
Yeah, that's very similar to my workflow.

Although it's not really about the tones of the skin but the values, I like to dodge and burn on the coarse detail (low frequency) layer to enhance the contouring. Might as well while you're there, right?

Yes, I do that too. It seems easier that way. No need to worry about messing up the details or at least less chance of it. smile

Aug 21 09 06:26 pm Link