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Location Flash
What are your recommendations for battery powered flash units for use on location? Planning ahead during lockdown, so interested to know what peoples' preferences are. Thank you all in advance. Apr 01 20 01:58 am Link Personally, Speedlites get the job done. Apr 01 20 02:06 am Link FIFTYONE PHOTOGRAPHY wrote: Ditto on speedlights. Apr 01 20 04:14 am Link About 1/2 of the images in my portfolio were shot with one or two Nikon SB800 off camera with Cactus triggers in manual mode and reflective umbrellas. I since have switched to Godox. The Godox line is good value for the money. Godox offers two styles of radio control. Godox offers flashes for the various camera brands but really any flash will work if you have the appropriate radio control for your camera brand. Also one radio control will work for all of the various Godox flashes. Godox TT685 AA powered Godox V860 Proprietary lithium rechargeable This recycles faster Godox AD200 Pro More power - good if your location is outdoors Two can be mounted together in a Bowens style speed ring. Here is a MM thread about Godox: https://www.modelmayhem.com/forums/post/977967 Apr 01 20 05:52 am Link Godox TT685 or V860 depending of you want disposable "AA" batteries or a rechargeable battery. They have the great advantage of working remotely using a wireless transmitter on the camera (one transmitter will work as many units as you want). They are cheap ($110.00 for the unit and $69.00 for the transmitter), they have good power, good accessory line and work well. Just one thing, I would seriously suggest a high voltage power pack to get the fastest recycle times. Godox makes one, Bolt makes one, several others and, of course, Quantum makes several. Apr 01 20 07:32 am Link MenaiMedia wrote: It's difficult for people to make relevant recommendations if they don't know your parameters. Apr 01 20 07:33 am Link Very useful information coming in from you all. Thank you for your responses and suggestions. Apr 01 20 08:07 am Link I just had my first photo shoot in the USA and instead of speedlights, I brought a bunch of my Profoto B1 and put them on baby roller stands, and had a bunch of light modifiers to choose from. It was on location in a city park gazebo. Things did not go perfectly mostly because I am such a n00b, and there was a lot of time spent loading and unloading gear but I was pleased with what I was able to do. I learned a lot and did not charge the subject a cent. With the Profoto B1 I can adjust the output down as far as I want while also being able to adjust to something like 10x the power of a speedlight if needed. My favorite part of the shoot was using three Profoto RFI strip softboxes in a triangle and then I shot from the middle of the triangle, getting these nice, big triangular catch lights in the subject's eyes. I put one of these images in my portfolio just now in case you would like to check it out (you can click here). There was plenty of life in the batteries even after nearly 300 shots. One of the biggest reasons I chose the Profoto B1 is aside from battery power, it features seemingly infinite adjustability as opposed to other lights which I recall would not offer, for example, settings in the 0-50% power range. Apr 01 20 03:49 pm Link Speedlights are good for indoors. Bright sun might take a 400 ws or larger if you also plan to use a modifier. I use a Godox AD-600TTL Pro outdoors in bright sun. You can dial it from Full 1/1 way down to 1/128 power in one-tenth stops. (That flash is on sale for $749 now too.). I got it primarily for HSS outdoors. I have the Godox TT685 speedlights but found them too weak. Using HSS, the TT685 has a GN-8 and the AD-600 GN-18 with its stock 5" reflector. Bit more power, but HSS eats power and changing a shutter speed will also change the output of the flash as it evolves into a sawtooth series of flashes for the duration. With an 11" long-throw focus reflector on the AD-600 I get the following guide numbers: 1/250 GN=160 1/500 GN=90 1/1000 GN=63 1/2000 GN=45 1/4000 GN=32 1/8000 GN=25 Of course you could add a ND filter to get a lower shutter speed in sunlight to what the normal flash sync speed is and keep the flash's higher GN. Depends on job and DOF wanted. Apr 01 20 06:25 pm Link I have a bunch of speedlights that I use. I have an SB800 and an SB900 but I still have a three SB-26s from my film camera days that I can fire remotely from stands. You can get a bunch modifiers and mounts from eBay that allow you to mount soft boxes and umbrellas. J. Apr 02 20 03:52 am Link More great feedback. Thank you everybody. Apr 02 20 05:37 am Link Some speedlights will overheat if one is consistently using them at >1/4 power. Apr 02 20 08:25 am Link 63fotos wrote: According to some sources, it's the batteries that overheat. This can be avoided by using an external power pack. Also the external power pack will recycle faster. Apr 02 20 08:36 am Link I shoot a lot on location and have used a variety of lighting. Here are some guidelines that seem to work. Of course, there will be exceptions, so use these as general statements, not rules. I'm referring to the more traditional speedlights with the equivalent of 50ws to 75ws of power (if that were a true power rating of speedlights). This is just a way to get an idea of the power ranges for comparison. There are also newer models that are called speedlights, but they're really more in the realm of battery-powered strobes. A 200ws "speedlight" is more a strobe than speedlight. As you can see, it would take multiple speedlights to equate to the power rating of a strobe. Outdoors - Direct, bright sun, no shade - the advantage would go to battery-powered strobe. A single speedlight can provide some fill or you can use multiple speedlights, but that adds complexity and slows you down. A single speedlight, in some cases won't be powerful enough. - Using HSS/High Sync/ Hypersync - A single speedlight is generally not powerful enough. You have to gang 2 or 3 together in a fixture to get enough power to do anything reasonable. Here's where a 200WS or higher monolight will be useful. - Using a softbox in the bright sun - You could probably use a speedlight in a 60cm x 60cm softbox or 60cm - 90cm octa with the inner baffle only or maybe a beauty dish. Beyond that you need more power for most situations. Indoors or night time - Using a softbox - Again, limit the softbox size with a single speedlight. I wouldn't feel comfortable using something bigger than maybe a 90cm Octa or beauty dish with a single speedlight, Indoors, you may be able to use both baffles, depending on the situation. General - Shooting fast and often - If you're shooting 40 or 60 flash shots in a couple minutes, a typical speedlight may have trouble keeping up with recycle times. Generally there are lower power requirements indoors, so a speedlight may work fine, however, I once lent a speedlights to another photographer who quickly had the thermal sensor shut the speedlight down. It seems they were trying to set a land-speed record for the most flash photos per second. I later found out the photographer also had their ISO at 100 indoors. Increasing the ISO would have reduced the power needed from the speedlight and possibly prevented the shutdown. How you set your camera up in different environments will play a factor as will use of reflectors, etc. Speedlights are great because they're very portable and light. They're less expensive and can work in a wide variety of situations. The battery-powered strobes are more flexible for a wider range of situation, but not as portable. Apr 02 20 12:39 pm Link I find my Sb600 and 800 work fine for most indoor shots, sometimes with umbrellas. I'm almost always at iso 100. For outdoor locations that aren't direct sun, I still rely on speedlights, rarely at more than 1/2 power. For bright outdoor locations I have an Alien Bee Ring Light and an original Vagabond that still works fine. Apr 03 20 05:40 am Link I have used a diffused Canon 430EX speedlight while shooting in the Arizona desert. Apr 03 20 01:50 pm Link As I do commercial jobs--I have 4 flashpoint rovelight 600s which rock. One has a bowens mount. Previously, I had speedlights which were okay but strobes offer more control, more power, and the rovelights I have have their own lithium batteries. My modifiers are simple: a beauty dish, etc. I don't have strips and don't need them. You can buy a used rovelight 600 for $200 on ebay. Apr 03 20 02:36 pm Link Mark Salo wrote: I was using a Yongnuo at the time, and have switched to Godox. Don't have an overheating problem now. Apr 04 20 08:57 am Link I bought some of those "reconditioned" Nikon SB-900s off Nikon's website years ago. They were very prone to thermal shutdowns, but I didn't know that at the time nor during their 90 day "reconditioned" warranty period either. Probably why they went back to Nikon to sell as "reconditioned" - which they never were as it was just a bad design. So far all the Godox's I have are working well. Bought a second Flashpoint Xplor 600 TTL Pro as it was on sale for $150 off last week. Nice fitted case from Adorama too and covered by Adorama's warranty. The Godox version sold by B&H Photo doesn't show a case and I don't know about the warranty as Godox has no USA service so it must be with B&H Photo...maybe. Apr 04 20 10:11 am Link WIth me, it depends largely on who / what I'm shooting and where. I often have to carry gear a long way into the wilderness so I'll use speedlights or the Godox AD360 II, depending on the what, the where, and how much natural light is going to be available. I've found that if I carry too much lighting gear, I'm tempted to leave it in the car, and won't have it when I need it. Apr 04 20 01:53 pm Link Once again, so much useful information coming through. Thank you one and all for your views and thoughts. Very much appreciated. Apr 05 20 05:24 am Link I have 2x 580EX II's on Manfrotto 3372 stands triggered by Pocketwizards but normally only carry 1 set. I have yet to have any issues outdoors, particularly with out of the way locations. The setup is reliable, light, compact, sets up and tears down in seconds. For Hotels and whatnot I pack both sets. Choice of gear depends a lot on how much work You want to do and where the location is. I keep it simple. Apr 05 20 05:40 am Link I use 3 of the Godox AD600 strobes and really find them amazing. They are a flash with enough power and features that allow me to do just about anything I can think of. I have 3 other studio strobes systems, but they to have the flexibility to shoot outside when there is no electrical power. I recently used 2 of the Godox AD600 for a location shoot and found them to be very good. With Godox, I like the high flash rate, power and high capacity batteries. Years ago, I tried using speedlite, but they just didn't have the power. Apr 05 20 09:03 am Link Godox is very good, Profoto is better. Fovitec has very good modifiers, Wescott has better. Newer has stands that are very good (big knobs help), Mathews and Manfrotto have better. If you have the cash get the better, the very good options will provide also. Get the pro versions of the transmitters either Godox or Profoto. Here's the real difference between them all,,, you. Get some stuff you can afford and start working with it. Fail fast, shift, grow, repeat. J. Apr 05 20 01:22 pm Link Jarrett Porst wrote: Excellent advice. Apr 05 20 02:47 pm Link One trick I worked out long ago and still works in the digital age...the thyristor circuit will give correct exposure for the ISO level specified on the flash - so even a trusty old Vivitar 283 works just fine with no need for TTL at all. I used to do a LOT of large format architectural interiors and the 283s were great as "Pop lights" to stash behind furniture and other places to illuminate areas that were not getting enough light. Just put a optical slave (I recommend Wein) on the hot shoe of ANY speedlight and it becomes a battery powered remote light source. I still have a case with just 283s, 285s and their slaves that gets dragged out on location to supplement the bigger monolights that I primarily use. I bought each one used at camera swap meets over the years for $20-$30 each. You just can't kill those old things. Apr 22 20 08:15 am Link Concerning affordability, anybody tried the Neewer i67T EX 600 W monolite? Lots of power and only $399 on Amazon (comes with wireless trigger). First one blew up on me; the replacement still firing. Weighs 5.5 lbs. with battery inserted in the lite, so a little unstable on a light stand. Apr 22 20 08:59 am Link FIFTYONE PHOTOGRAPHY wrote: Not outdoors Apr 22 20 09:16 am Link 63fotos wrote: Really? Lots of photographers get great images with them outside. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zwGhemguHk Apr 22 20 09:27 am Link I have a Godox AD600 ttl and 2 Godox AD200's for outdoor use. That AD 600 is a heavy beast though, a c-stand is a must for that thing. May 01 20 04:31 pm Link Robert Mossack wrote: Quite agree. I have two AD600BM, and I'd never think of taking them into the wild. Too heavy. May 01 20 08:40 pm Link 63fotos wrote: I have used speedlites outdoors with great results. May 01 20 10:51 pm Link FIFTYONE PHOTOGRAPHY wrote: 63fotos wrote: Really? I did not know that. May 02 20 01:14 am Link May 02 20 02:45 am Link FIFTYONE PHOTOGRAPHY wrote: It looks like you were using it undiffused. You barely held any depth of field. Exposure didn't carry to the environment. May 02 20 07:29 am Link Dan Howell wrote: Bounced. May 03 20 04:24 am Link Different tools for different jobs and of course budget is a big factor. Personally I like the Godox ( Flashpoint at Adorama) in that it is a complete system for speed lights to a number of studio units ( both AC and Battery powered) that all work with the same remote and Camera Brand Specific units work the same as the OEM units ( at much lower price). Studio ones can work with any OEM system with proper remote. It allows you to start with inexpensive units and if you need something else the money is not wasted. May 03 20 07:10 am Link Being simple minded and like technical stuff things easy, I switch to LED lights with rechargeable batteries.. I'll never go back except for built in flash for candid photography.... May 03 20 10:26 am Link Just as a little something extra...these look interesting, and certainly fall within the confines of this thread. https://www.diyphotography.net/godox-is … deo-light/ May 04 20 08:07 pm Link For years I have used speed lights with radio triggers along with full sized umbrellas, soft boxes and snoots. The size and portability of speed lights cannot be beat plus rechargeable AA bateries are universal and easy to get. A couple of years ago I bought an Interfit S1 monolight. It was one of the first 3rd party knock offs of Profoto’s B1 with an internal battery along with HHS and TTL capability. Speedlights are great to begin with as they can be used on or off camera and can be thrown into your camera bag. With models/ portraits speed lights work best as an addition to ambient light or in places where ambient light can be controlled. Except for close up work, do not expect a speed light to overpower ambient light. Speed lights when powered down have extremely short flash durations and excellent at freezing motion. This does make the flash less bright and you would need to control ambient light. My S1’s are 500 watts as opposed to flagship speed lights which top off an equivalent output of around 73 watts. At maximum power the S1 is around 6.8X as powerful as the most powerful speed lights. It is much easier to overpower ambient light. With speed lights in HHS, you need to bring them very close to your subject. With a 500 watt moonlight I can have greater working distance. Even at slow speeds all but the most expensive moonlights have a longer minimum flash duration as a speed light. If you need to freeze water droplets in space, a speed light might be the best option unless you can budget for a more expensive monolight or pack system. Photons are photons. Both moonlights and speed lights will have a full 100CRI. I personally worry less about the manufacturer or which I’m using but I do spend money on quality modifiers to shape the light. I have a couple of Mola beauty dishes which are my favorite portrait modifier. Once the light is shaped it does not matter if it was a speed light or a monolight, a Profoto or Bron or a less expansive Chinese company. For right now I am happy with my 2 Interfir S1s and a single 250 watt Interfit Badger Unleased May 05 20 12:47 pm Link |
