Forums > Critique > Testing out beauty shoot lighting. How's it look?

Photographer

Joe Gunawan fotosiamo

Posts: 168

Los Angeles, California, US

I wanted to try out the classic beauty light setup, with my Einstein with gridded beauty dish about 2-3ft above my camera and a reflector below her chin. This is known as clam-shell lighting.

I'm usually about creative lighting, but I gotta say, I'm loving this simple set up. Background was just a white wall in one of the rooms in my house smile


Shot with Panasonic GH2 with the Olympus Zuiko 4/3 14-54mm f2.8-f3.5 mkII. Shot in f3.5 near the telephoto end. The model is a friend of mine from my college days:


Style one

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7009/6738269595_3e07cc5371_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7175/6738270809_125c7572a5_b.jpg



Style two

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7019/6738280627_5d30759b39_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/6738480015_399151cda8_b.jpg

Jan 21 12 02:41 pm Link

Photographer

Joe Gunawan fotosiamo

Posts: 168

Los Angeles, California, US

Also, how does my post-processing technique looking? I changed a couple of ways in my retouching workflow

Jan 21 12 02:57 pm Link

Photographer

PR Zone

Posts: 897

London, England, United Kingdom

Lighting seems good, but - personally - I like a TINY bit more 'kick' in the eyes

The colourings good, but if you were asking - the I'd suggest you go the whole hog and make the complexion 'flawless'. Not necessarily 'plastic', but 100% blemish free

Shots are good and I like the flower one a lot :-)

Jan 21 12 03:08 pm Link

Photographer

Fotografica Gregor

Posts: 4126

Alexandria, Virginia, US

Joe Gunawan fotosiamo wrote:
I wanted to try out the classic beauty light setup, with my Einstein with gridded beauty dish about 2-3ft above my camera and a reflector below her chin. This is known as clam-shell lighting.

I'm usually about creative lighting, but I gotta say, I'm loving this simple set up. Background was just a white wall in one of the rooms in my house smile


Shot with Panasonic GH2 with the Olympus Zuiko 4/3 14-54mm f2.8-f3.5 mkII. Shot in f3.5 near the telephoto end. The model is a friend of mine from my college days:


Style one



https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7009/6738269595_3e07cc5371_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7175/6738270809_125c7572a5_b.jpg



Style two

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7019/6738280627_5d30759b39_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/6738480015_399151cda8_b.jpg

Basically nice riff on a classic technique -

the one thing is,  it looks better if the high-lights fall in the right place

first image is fine

in the other shots the high lights are misplaced -  she is no longer facing in the same orientation to the light

you want highlights near center of forehead, both cheeks and chin when face on.  When she turns her head you don't want the forehead high light to drift to the corner of her forehead

the trick is to have her move her *stance* (and if needed your position) for these different looks but keep her face oriented the same way to the light

You have it set up nicely and the images are nice as they are but since you asked for critique I thought I would let you know what an editor would expect to see.

Cheers

Jan 21 12 03:25 pm Link

Photographer

Joe Gunawan fotosiamo

Posts: 168

Los Angeles, California, US

Fotografica Gregor wrote:

Basically nice riff on a classic technique -

the one thing is,  it looks better if the high-lights fall in the right place

first image is fine

in the other shots the high lights are misplaced -  she is no longer facing in the same orientation to the light

you want highlights near center of forehead, both cheeks and chin when face on.  When she turns her head you don't want the forehead high light to drift to the corner of her forehead

the trick is to have her move her *stance* (and if needed your position) for these different looks but keep her face oriented the same way to the light

You have it set up nicely and the images are nice as they are but since you asked for critique I thought I would let you know what an editor would expect to see.

Cheers

Ah, gotcha, I didn't realize that part of it is to keep the highlights in the center like that.  Very useful info!

So, maybe when I want to get a 3/4 view, I should move more to her side and keep her face towards the light to keep the highlights in place? I actually did that for some of them, but maybe not enough

Jan 21 12 03:39 pm Link

Photographer

Fotografica Gregor

Posts: 4126

Alexandria, Virginia, US

Joe Gunawan fotosiamo wrote:

Ah, gotcha, I didn't realize that part of it is to keep the highlights in the center like that.  Very useful info!

So, maybe when I want to get a 3/4 view, I should move more to her side and keep her face towards the light to keep the highlights in place? I actually did that for some of them, but maybe not enough

It's actually a very fine point -  your basic technique is plenty good.

Try it again along the lines I mentioned and compare for yourself -  see which approach you prefer - it is *your* photography after all -    I fairly often make an *artistic* decision to do it differently than might be expected. Probably the thing that is most often criticized is that I sometimes use different white balances for artistic purpose, very noticeable on skin.....

Take good care

Gregor

Jan 21 12 03:54 pm Link

Photographer

Joe Gunawan fotosiamo

Posts: 168

Los Angeles, California, US

Fotografica Gregor wrote:
It's actually a very fine point -  your basic technique is plenty good.

Try it again along the lines I mentioned and compare for yourself -  see which approach you prefer - it is *your* photography after all -    I fairly often make an *artistic* decision to do it differently than might be expected. Probably the thing that is most often criticized is that I sometimes use different white balances for artistic purpose, very noticeable on skin.....

Take good care

Gregor

Thanks! I will try that when I do this again. I did color-grade this, too, from its original white-balanced photo, so I totally get your artistic decisions. It's not always the most color-correct photo that looks best, right?

Jan 21 12 04:17 pm Link

Photographer

Sandy Ramirez

Posts: 6089

Brooklyn, New York, US

Clean and simple well done. I do a similar set up except I keep a gridded and socked beauty dish at eye level and a small soft box above the model with a reflector under the chin

Jan 21 12 10:23 pm Link

Photographer

Eros Fine Art Photo

Posts: 3097

Torrance, California, US

I think the lighting is nice, but the processing could you a little more contrast to make it pop more.  I don't like the background though.  It's too close to the model's skin tones, so it just kind of washes everything out.  I'd rather see a richer color, like deep burgundy, or simply black background.  That would really bring out the highlights.

Jan 22 12 01:12 am Link

Photographer

B R U N E S C I

Posts: 25319

Bath, England, United Kingdom

Nice start, but try moving your BD closer to the model for more dramatic falloff and more 'glowing' highlights.

Also, I agree to an extent with Gregor about clamshell lighting - it's really best for straight to the camera poses. For 2/3rds or profile poses, short lighting or clamshell from the direction the model is facing tends to work better. When a model turns her head to the side in a front-on clamshell setup it effectively becomes broad lighting, which is much less flattering for profile and 2/3rds shots.



Just my $0.02

Ciao
Stefano

www.stefanobrunesci.com

Jan 22 12 04:16 am Link

Photographer

Ryan Bater

Posts: 3631

London, England, United Kingdom

Stefano Brunesci wrote:
Nice start, but try moving your BD closer to the model for more dramatic falloff and more 'glowing' highlights.

Also, I agree to an extent with Gregor about clamshell lighting - it's really best for straight to the camera poses. For 2/3rds or profile poses, short lighting or clamshell from the direction the model is facing tends to work better. When a model turns her head to the side in a front-on clamshell setup it effectively becomes broad lighting, which is much less flattering for profile and 2/3rds shots.



Just my $0.02

Ciao
Stefano

www.stefanobrunesci.com

+1 very nice smile

Jan 22 12 04:24 am Link

Photographer

Joe Gunawan fotosiamo

Posts: 168

Los Angeles, California, US

Stefano Brunesci wrote:
Nice start, but try moving your BD closer to the model for more dramatic falloff and more 'glowing' highlights.

Also, I agree to an extent with Gregor about clamshell lighting - it's really best for straight to the camera poses. For 2/3rds or profile poses, short lighting or clamshell from the direction the model is facing tends to work better. When a model turns her head to the side in a front-on clamshell setup it effectively becomes broad lighting, which is much less flattering for profile and 2/3rds shots.



Just my $0.02

Ciao
Stefano

www.stefanobrunesci.com

Ahh, I thought I had my BD close enough. I will try with it closer. As for the short-lighting, I think it would be really good with this model since she does have a somewhat broad chin, as I noticed in my last photo. I will take account into that next time. Thanks Stefano!

Jan 22 12 11:55 am Link

Photographer

Neil Snape

Posts: 9474

Paris, Île-de-France, France

As Stefano said , move the BD in , higher , angle it down a lot, alos put a black card , barn door , cinefoil or something on the close edge to reduce burning the close part out 9 top of the head usually.

Bounce some light back in. Always have both brilliant and mat silver cards for this. Watch the fill what it does. Always avoid double shadows= close as possible to camera axis. If not make sure you block or flag the light below the chin.

I have tutorials on my blog that might help.

Jan 22 12 12:00 pm Link

Photographer

Joe Gunawan fotosiamo

Posts: 168

Los Angeles, California, US

Wow! I never thought about using the barn doors or black cinefoil to decrease the BD hotspot. Your tutorials are amazingly detailed! I will have to play around with them. I haven't seen barn doors for a 22" BD before, though.

Where is the best place to buy cinefoil, by the way?

Jan 22 12 08:44 pm Link

Photographer

Joe Gunawan fotosiamo

Posts: 168

Los Angeles, California, US

In terms of retouching the skin, what do you guys recommend? I usually use Portrait Professional on a duplicate layer in Photoshop and played around with it, but for this series, the "soften skin" adjustment brush in Lightroom seems to do a better job, so I used that brush in LR before opening it as a PSD on Photoshop for further retouching.

Any good tips on retouching?

Thanks guys!

PS, I just launched my website and would love comments on it, too: www.fotosiamo.com


Best regards,
Joe Gunawan | fotosiamo

Jan 22 12 09:00 pm Link

Model

winking_wonder

Posts: 5907

New York, New York, US

In both cases, image #2 is stronger. Nicely done.

Jan 22 12 09:17 pm Link

Photographer

Studio126

Posts: 106

Huntsville, Alabama, US

Joe Gunawan fotosiamo wrote:
In terms of retouching the skin, what do you guys recommend? I usually use Portrait Professional on a duplicate layer in Photoshop and played around with it, but for this series, the "soften skin" adjustment brush in Lightroom seems to do a better job, so I used that brush in LR before opening it as a PSD on Photoshop for further retouching.

Any good tips on retouching?

The one thing that I notice is the bump on her right cheek that catches the light. I would remove that. I can't find much else that bothers me.

Jan 23 12 02:11 pm Link

Photographer

Joe Gunawan fotosiamo

Posts: 168

Los Angeles, California, US

Studio126 wrote:
The one thing that I notice is the bump on her right cheek that catches the light. I would remove that. I can't find much else that bothers me.

Thanks, will do!

Jan 24 12 03:49 am Link