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My Huge Issue: Camera Shake
just crank ISO (and/or shoot wider open) until you have a safe shutter speed (you may need to experiment to find out what that is for you and for your particular lenses). try to sit or lean against something when possible. blurriness can be caused by many factors, not just camera shake. Apr 16 14 06:55 pm Link Tripod. Apr 16 14 06:56 pm Link Use lenses with IS, use higher shutter speeds and try a program called Piccure which is designed to minimize camera movement, trial is free. PS Cloud also has a similar feature. First, TRY A TRIPOD! Your first mission is to find out what is causing your problem and a tripod is the only thing that takes your camera handling out of the picture. Don't worry about taking great shots of models shoot brick walls, picket fences, buildings- things that do not move. If you are still getting a problem start to look at calibrating the focus of the camera (if it offers that feature). Trying to do your normal photography without sixing this is a waste of time and a path to frustration. Apr 16 14 06:59 pm Link Laurence Moan wrote: Lol I was more nervous about cops showing up. This was in Vegas. We started off by taking pictures in a parking lot at a mall that was empty. Security came and kicked us out. The park was a last resort. I thought we would get kicked out of there too but it didn't happen thank God. Apr 16 14 07:04 pm Link Yajhil Alvarez wrote: I am not certain if someone addressed this issue in the replies... but... many cameras are able to calibrate the AF to the particular lense. Apr 16 14 07:04 pm Link JohnEnger wrote: Pretty solid advice here, proper hand holding technique is key. Also, there is a techinque that they teach you when shooting a gun, don't inhale while you squeeze the trigger, rather exhale slowly while gently squeezing the trigger. This works in photography too, slowly exhale while gently pressing the shutter button. It works very well for me. Apr 16 14 08:53 pm Link Monopod When I shoot with my 135/f2 I get slightly soft images because the lens is heavy and makes my hands shake quite a bit when I'm holding it. When I use the monopod I get sharp photos. Apr 16 14 09:07 pm Link udor wrote: Yeah I was going to ask if it's just with one lens or all? I have hand shaking issues (thyroid/stress) but I also have a few lenses and cameras that don't cooperate no matter what i do. It could also be your sensor starting to crap out (do you have any noise spots? At what iso?), it could be autofocus issues. Are you able to focus manually? (I understand, not ideal for some situations, but I mainly shoot portraits and landscapes/still things) are all lenses you use on your camera creating the same issue? Apr 16 14 09:23 pm Link use as fast a shutter as possible up your ISO if you need to maintain a DOF. grain is better than blur. if its a longer lens, use one that has image stabilization. use a monopod use a tripod as a rule of thumb you should set you shutterspeed the twice to at least the reciprocal focal length (adjust if you use a crop sensor, e.g. crop 70mm use 1/125) Apr 17 14 04:23 am Link Hi , I just had my 83rd birthday and found my hands not as steady as they were. I found that with full size DSLR combination I was having similar problems, besides the weight and my unsteadyness, I decided to get rid of all my gear and go to Olympus OMD-EM1-- It has made the world of difference to my photography! For a start so much less weight to carry around, my arms and leg don't get tired, and best of all-- full five axis stabilisation in camera body, and really fast auto focus.It's totally revolutionised my life! Ive been taking low light shots at 1/3 of second, which would have been impossible. Ok so it was an expensive option but without it I would probably had to have given up photography. I've already had to give up my first love--Fishing, as walking was becoming difficult. I now find I have a slight cataract in my right eye so now have to use left eye to use the viewfinder!!! I truly think we have to do a bit of lateral thinking , and some unfortunately hard choices. Age is not the best but, I can still shoot beautiful young ladies and drive my Subaru impreza STI, so hey ho. Apr 17 14 07:57 am Link scubie wrote: awesome. Apr 17 14 08:29 am Link Ronald N. Tan wrote: This thread should have ended long ago.... TRIPOD is all you need if that's not enough set the auto timer on your camera as well, and don't touch it. Apr 17 14 09:51 am Link Monopod. You get a lot more quick mobility with a monopod than a tripod. Some places simply won't let you in with a tripod. Far fewer restrictions on monopods. Someone suggested a cord looped around a foot and attached to the camera via mounting screw. A good substitute for a monopod. In some situations, hold the camera against a column or wall or railing. Some photographers i know keep a Beany Baby (tiny stuffed animal) or a beanbag for resting the camera on a fence rail or post. The beanbag allows positioning of the camera while maintaining stability. And if you must go handheld, remember to breathe deep and steady. Holding your breath will quickly induce hand tremors. (I learned that in boot camp on the firing range.) Apr 17 14 10:13 am Link FGO FANTASY PHOTO wrote: Sorry , but it if you dont find it useful just dont read it! But , i have a D7000 and with my 80 - 200 f2.8 and a grip attatched it is damn heavy and I have always had a very poor keep rate using this combo. Having read this thread I tried various methods of using the strap as a tension tool , and have found a method that suits me and gives as a good a result as using a monopod. Apr 17 14 10:23 am Link FGO FANTASY PHOTO wrote: Ronald N. Tan wrote: Not even close. Apr 17 14 10:29 am Link Paul AI wrote: +1 Apr 17 14 10:33 am Link rickspix_uk wrote: purchase a sturdier tripod.... Apr 17 14 10:43 am Link purchase a sturdier tripod.... Actually I said MONOPOD... if I am doing street photography then using a tripod just isnt a possibility at all and a monopod isnt really ideal either , but you missed the point , which is that SOME people learn from these threads even if you dont ! Apr 17 14 11:08 am Link 1 - Up your shutter speed 2 - shoot in bursts, often the middle images are steadiest 3 - use your head, press the camera to your forehead for stability 4 - time your breathing to your shutter pressing 5 - get a lens with image stabilization or a camera with IBIS (like Sony a-mount cameras) 6 - consider using a flash or strobe, which freezes the subject on the sensor Apr 17 14 11:17 am Link Tripod and is lenses ... Although Apr 17 14 11:23 am Link rickspix_uk wrote: +1 Apr 17 14 11:28 am Link I hope you work with your doctor and find a solution to whatever is the physiological or medical cause of this problem. Everyone has given you great operational techniques and gear suggestions to implement. That is great, but these things can get worse if not dealt with early on. You mentioned the doctor said it was stress thing and said you have a gym membership. Consult your doctor what you should ease into. Walking a mile or two a day, if you carry a camera go real light. One off cut question I have though is do you sleep enough and get good rest? Apr 17 14 11:31 am Link Robert Mossack wrote: Thanks! Apr 17 14 11:35 am Link When I upgraded to a d800 (From a Canon 40d), I really noticed shake! Even with a 50mm, and for a long time I really had to work on it. I had to make several tweaks to my shooting method, I had to consciously let my right hand mesh with the contours of the grip as well as make myself depress the shutter with a smoother action. But something else I played with was a more stable method of supporting the camera and lens. And I did make some progress with it, I don't always use it, and you do look a little strange doing it, but here goes and don't laugh:  Above I'm using my left hand to grab my right shoulder/upper arm  And here you'll notice that I'm sort of reverse grabbing my forearm. Both positions allow the camera to rest on your left arm and for me add a lot more stability, which both aids in reducing shake as well as allowing for careful placing of focus points (and for me at times having a steadier viewfinder for composing helps me slow things down and concentrate a little). The glasses placed on top of the head are also strictly necessary, for balancing! Apr 17 14 04:46 pm Link Yajhil Alvarez wrote: I knew it was camera shake! You are in Cali, it's legal to smoke! Apr 17 14 04:53 pm Link wynnesome wrote: See what 2 joints gets ya? Apr 17 14 05:09 pm Link Yajhil Alvarez wrote: Marin Photography NYC wrote: What makes me really wonder is that... if I shoot at 1/500s, I freeze about any motion of most fast moving objects..., that such a fast speed is not fast enough to bypass "camera shake"... Apr 17 14 07:00 pm Link Op, when I was young I hunted a lot. I started out hunting rabbit/squirrels with a 20 gauge shotgun. The recoil was very little. When I got my first rifle (30-06) for deer, the recoil was a lot more. It kicked me like a mule and my shots were all over the place. My grandfather saw me target practicing one day and he saw what my problem was. I was jerking the trigger and I would "flinch" just before I pulled the trigger. He told me to squeeze the trigger and follow through and let the shot "surprise you". I finally got the hang of it. What I think may be happening is just before you press the shutter, you may be "flinching" or moving before the shutter even opens/closes and you don't realize it. Try holding the camera with a sturdy grip and don't move until the shutter closes completely. Hope this helps. Apr 17 14 07:19 pm Link Get a camera with in body shake reduction (sony or pentax) or get lenses with image stabilization. Apr 18 14 12:24 am Link udor wrote: Yajhil Alvarez wrote: What makes me really wonder is that... if I shoot at 1/500s, I freeze about any motion of most fast moving objects..., that such a fast speed is not fast enough to bypass "camera shake"... LOL Apr 18 14 12:28 am Link FGO FANTASY PHOTO wrote: So you think blurry images can always be avoided by using a tripod and timer? Apr 18 14 12:30 am Link Two suggestions: 1. A trick a Biffer showed me a while ago; when you put the camera to your eye to shoot press the camera (through the eye cup) against your eye brow bone with some pressure - this helps steady the camera a little. 2. Have you tried shooting in AI Servo? This may help compensate a little if your shake it moving the camera back and forth - to and from your focus point. Apr 18 14 12:58 am Link Drew Smith Photography wrote: Sorry OT, what's a Biffer? I got a range of definitions via google. Apr 18 14 01:05 am Link CHAD ALAN wrote: Oops - sorry - a Biffer is somebody that has a passion for shooting bird in flight. Apr 18 14 01:09 am Link CHAD ALAN wrote: Drew Smith Photography wrote: I'm a Misser, I like to shoot every ModelInSight-er Apr 18 14 01:16 am Link |
