Forums > Photography Talk > I need help with lighting my subjects

Photographer

Smitty

Posts: 442

Atlanta, Georgia, US

I am learning more and more about light and how to use it. I need some help how to properly light my subjects when I am doing shoots. I have
1 strobe with umbella, and 2 12 inch floods with umbrellas. Looking for direction for proper placement to get better lit images

Nov 24 05 05:15 pm Link

Photographer

Bill Gunter

Posts: 547

Daytona Beach, Florida, US

The color temperature for floods and strobes are different.

Unless you are trying for an effect with some parts of the picture having a warmer or cooler tone than other parts maybe you should start with just one type of lights.

It should be okay to mix them when shooting black and white, though.

Nov 24 05 05:27 pm Link

Photographer

Eric Foltz

Posts: 432

Lake Forest, California, US

I recommend the book "Photographing People" by Rotovision. Any Barnes & Noble or Borders.

Eric Foltz

Nov 24 05 06:08 pm Link

Photographer

Mac Wolff

Posts: 3665

Litchfield Park, Arizona, US

all thoough you may not be shooting nudes I found that  the book  "lighting the nudes" by Rotovision to be awesome..... there is several photographers who give their secrets on lighting and diagrams of how they did the shot, cameras and lighing angles and the finished product, they may have it at the Library

Nov 24 05 06:25 pm Link

Photographer

Photowerk

Posts: 25

Hi Smithy,
First I do not like floods ( personal preference )  Light quality is much beter with strobes, and even beter if you use a softbox.  But depending on what mood you want to create ... floods could do the job !!!!

Remember. What makes a good pic is the lighting ... not the model or the photog.
( to a degree !! ) .

Try different options... practice makes perfect.

Nov 24 05 06:53 pm Link

Photographer

J O H N A L L A N

Posts: 12221

Los Angeles, California, US

go to calumetphoto.com or walk into a local calumet store if you have one in your area.
Get 2-3 books (or videos even better) on lighting, based upon the type of photography you want to do.
ie. Beauty, Fashion, glamour, etc.

Remember, it's all about the light.

John

P.S. Also you might ask photographers if they need an assistant.
Particularly for location shoots, it's often necessary to have two or three. There's nothing like watching how it works in the real world to really understand.

Nov 24 05 06:58 pm Link

Photographer

Greg Surniak

Posts: 10

Laurel, Maryland, US

Books, Books, Books, Books,  Rotovision seems to have a great grip on teaching lighting concepts.
As you have seen in other posts on this thread.
I don't know what they publish these days but they used to have one on pretty much every subject, and remember Lighting is not easy, it does not happen(often) by mistake, You gotta mean it!
I would also suggest sitting in on a shoot for a photographer in your area, shlep his/her gear for a day and you will be suprised at how much you learn.
I usually have at least a few students in the studio watching and learning.
Good Luck
G

Nov 24 05 07:10 pm Link

Photographer

hbynoe

Posts: 6

Cliffside Park, New Jersey, US

trial and error is what i work with
strobes are great but i love shooting with natural light..it is hard cause people are always around.
get some books and just take it all in

Nov 24 05 08:53 pm Link

Photographer

Marvin Dockery

Posts: 2243

Alcoa, Tennessee, US

Smitty wrote:
I am learning more and more about light and how to use it. I need some help how to properly light my subjects when I am doing shoots. I have
1 strobe with umbella, and 2 12 inch floods with umbrellas. Looking for direction for proper placement to get better lit images

A lot of my nudes are done with one strobe firing into a umbrella, or the same strobe fired in a homemade soft box, and one mirror to soften the shadow side.

Your floods would also work.  (I have even done shoots using candles.)

I suggest photographing a plain white coffee cup, on a table, for practice. Watch where the shadows fall, and how harsh they are. Think of the cup handle as the models nose, when looking for shadows.

Keep the lights backed off or you will have blown out highlights.  (highlights so white that there is no detail in them.)

If you are using film, and doing enlarger printing, the lighting contrast can be a little higher, than the same image done with a digital camera, and inkjet printed.

Just remember to keep it simple, get good with one light, and then start adding additional lights as you need them.

Nov 24 05 10:42 pm Link

Photographer

MWPortraits

Posts: 7024

Kansas City, Missouri, US

I'm also self-taught (teaching), and two of the books I;ve found incredibly valuable are:

Black & White Model Photography: Techniques and Images
by Bill Lemon

and

Beginner's Guid to Photographic Lighting
by Don Marr

Good luck!

Nov 24 05 11:18 pm Link

Photographer

John Pringle

Posts: 1608

New York, New York, US

The short stick is your subject is the center of the clock.
The camera sits at the six o'clock position.
The background sits at the twelve o'clock position.
Main light travels from 03:00 to 09:00
Accent light goes the rest of the way behind your subject.
Higher than the nose is usually for headshots.
Light boxes that reach full length is usually used in fashion.
Under the nose or even with it is usually used as a fill.
Light intensity from light to shadows is latutude.
Slide Film has about 1/2 -1/3 latitude.
Color negative film is about 7 stops latitude.
B/W film is about 9 stops latitude.
Digital chips have about 11-14 stops latitude.
B/W paper has about four stops latitude.
If your light is F-11 and your shadows is about F-5.6
You should have a normal setup.
Artistically, it would definately vary.

Nov 24 05 11:20 pm Link

Photographer

MWPortraits

Posts: 7024

Kansas City, Missouri, US

John Pringle wrote:
The short stick is your subject is the center of the clock.
The camera sits at the six o'clock position.
The background sits at the twelve o'clock position.
Main light travels from 03:00 to 09:00
Accent light goes the rest of the way behind your subject.
Higher than the nose is usually for headshots.
Light boxes that reach full length is usually used in fashion.
Under the nose or even with it is usually used as a fill.
Light intensity from light to shadows is latutude.
Slide Film has about 1/2 -1/3 latitude.
Color negative film is about 7 stops latitude.
B/W film is about 9 stops latitude.
Digital chips have about 11-14 stops latitude.
B/W paper has about four stops latitude.
If your light is F-11 and your shadows is about F-5.6
You should have a normal setup.
Artistically, it would definately vary.

Wow, thank you!

Nov 24 05 11:35 pm Link

Photographer

Columbus Photo

Posts: 2318

Columbus, Georgia, US

You appear to be having problems metering.  The 2nd shots of Krisi and Jeanette are both underexposed.  The first one of Jeanette is overexposed.  I guess I'm curious as to why you don't see that.  Buy an incident meter and take your reading from the highlight side of the subject's face.

Regarding strobes, they won't work well with hot light unless you use the latter for the background.  Same rule applies; get a flash meter and meter for the highlight side of the subject's face.

Paul

Nov 24 05 11:56 pm Link

Photographer

MWPortraits

Posts: 7024

Kansas City, Missouri, US

Paul Ferrara wrote:
You appear to be having problems metering.  The 2nd shots of Krisi and Jeanette are both underexposed.  The first one of Jeanette is overexposed.  I guess I'm curious as to why you don't see that.  Buy an incident meter and take your reading from the highlight side of the subject's face.

Regarding strobes, they won't work well with hot light unless you use the latter for the background.  Same rule applies; get a flash meter and meter for the highlight side of the subject's face.

Paul

To be frank, I only have a camera that I've had for around a month, a couple of nice lens, and some homemade backdrops. I bought two complete lighting kits tonight, and a meter. I've only been pursuing photography for around 6 months. The underexposed shots were from the flash not firing (my fault, wrong settings), but I thought they had some artistic merit, in any event. The overexposed is due to my love of high contrast pictures, and an overzealous Photoshop slide. Again, forgive my inexperience at thinking it had artistic merit.

Both girls were working on a TFCD basis, because they know that I'm new to all of this, and need experience, and were kind enough to sit for me.

I'm still learning (obviously). That's why I take help where I can get it.

Nov 25 05 12:11 am Link

Photographer

Columbus Photo

Posts: 2318

Columbus, Georgia, US

Well, sorry.  I clicked on your port thinking you were the OP.  Criiticism applies though.

I'm not sure why you wanted two complete light kits.  Strobes are the way to go.

Paul

Nov 25 05 12:31 am Link

Photographer

MWPortraits

Posts: 7024

Kansas City, Missouri, US

Paul Ferrara wrote:
Well, sorry.  I clicked on your port thinking you were the OP.  Criiticism applies though.

I'm not sure why you wanted two complete light kits.  Strobes are the way to go.

Paul

Thanks for the criticism, I'm not bothered by it.

I should have been more clear when I said light kits. What I bought was 2 strobes, 2 lightbox, 2 stands, and 1 slave. To me, this would be a kit. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

Nov 25 05 12:50 am Link

Photographer

lll

Posts: 12295

Seattle, Washington, US

Smitty wrote:
...I have 1 strobe with umbella, and 2 12 inch floods with umbrellas. Looking for direction for proper placement to get better lit images

This is not a valid question by itself.  What do you consider "better" and "proper"?  Either you will have to ask how to lit a specific image or you are looking for general lighting technique to light an image concept already in your head.  There is no one right answer to your question.

I agree with many others.  Get a few lighting books based on what you are trying to accomplish (fashion?  glamour?  Nudes?), then try them out.  Better yet, learn the physics of photography.  It will save you time, money and frustrations.

I disagree with the "strobe is the way to go" comment.  Depending on the use and style, hotlights, flourescent, HMI can all be very useful in many occasions.  Continuous lighting is also a much better learning tool than strobes.

Nov 25 05 05:56 am Link

Photographer

Worlds Of Water

Posts: 37732

Rancho Cucamonga, California, US

This image (avatar) was shot in a studio.  Guess how many flashes or strobes were used?... ZERO!  Don't believe me?  Ask the model (MM#10234/Lexi Schafer).  Dude... don't bust your ass trying to work on the light... let the light work for you... wink

Nov 25 05 06:22 am Link