I believe that old guys should share what they know with young guys. I am an old guy. I also believe that photography today is even more equipment oriented than ever before. At the same time old guys should listen to young guys because young guys are pretty sharp these days. So much for that. An MM photographer asked me how I did this (there are others in my port that are similar).
[img]http://www.modelmayhem.com/pics/20050628/2/42c18bb48fedd.jpg[/img[

I shoot film, both 6x7cm (we are metric in Canada) and 35mm. I shoot 35 only when I want to use Kodak b+w Infrared film or when I go traveling with my granddaugther Rebecca. Then I use either my Nikon F-3, my FM-2 or an old Pentax MX that has a dedicated (the only lens I kept) fabulous distortion-free 20mm. I also shoot infrared with my two dogs (a Widlux and a Horizont). To shoot Rebecca I use Ektachrome 100G which has less contrast than most slide film.

I like to scan my transparencies and my b+w prints with a cheap and obsolete Epson 1640 SU flatbed (which is a marvel!). But I discovered a few years ago that when you scanned b+w negs and played with Levels in PhotoShop you could either get almost believable skin tones or wha tou get here, specially when the neg is b+w infrared. The best part of all this is I don't go through the expense of calibrating monitor to printer. I put the file into a CD and I go to one of many very good giclée printing labs here in Vancouver. In the long run I think I save money this way. The giclées (French artspeak for a well printed Epson print) look very good in either matte Epson art paper or in the slightly pebbled variety.

Somehow the rest of my message dissapeared so here goes what's mI believe that old guys should share what they know with young guys. I am an old guy. I also believe that photography today is even more equipment oriented than ever before. At the same time old guys should listen to young guys because young guys are pretty sharp these days. So much for that. An MM photographer asked me how I did this (there are others in my port that are similar).
[img]http://www.modelmayhem.com/pics/20050628/2/42c18bb48fedd.jpg[/img[

I shoot film, both 6x7cm (we are metric in Canada) and 35mm. I shoot 35 only when I want to use Kodak b+w Infrared film or when I go traveling with my granddaugther Rebecca. Then I use either my Nikon F-3, my FM-2 or an old Pentax MX that has a dedicated (the only lens I kept) fabulous distortion-free 20mm. I also shoot infrared with my two dogs (a Widlux and a Horizont). To shoot Rebecca I use Ektachrome 100G which has less contrast than most slide film.

I like to scan my transparencies and my b+w prints with a cheap and obsolete Epson 1640 SU flatbed (which is a marvel!). But I discovered a few years ago that when you scanned b+w negs and played with Levels in PhotoShop you could either get almost believable skin tones or wha tou get here, specially when the neg is b+w infrared. The best part of all this is I don't go through the expense of calibrating monitor to printer. I put the file into a CD and I go to one of many very good giclée printing labs here in Vancouver. In the long run I think I save money this way. The giclées (French artspeak for a well printed Epson print) look very good in either matte Epson art paper or in the slightly pebbled variety.issing.

This is the picture and I will explain how I did it in another post since this forum is gobbling up half of what I write.

I shoot film, both 6x7cm (we are metric in Canada) and 35mm. I shoot 35 only when I want to use Kodak b+w Infrared film or when I go traveling with my granddaugther Rebecca. Then I use either my Nikon F-3, my FM-2 or an old Pentax MX that has a dedicated (the only lens I kept) fabulous distortion-free 20mm. I also shoot infrared with my two dogs (a Widlux and a Horizont). To shoot Rebecca I use Ektachrome 100G which has less contrast than most slide film.

I like to scan my transparencies and my b+w prints with a cheap and obsolete Epson 1640 SU flatbed (which is a marvel!). But I discovered a few years ago that when you scanned b+w negs and played with Levels in PhotoShop you could either get almost believable skin tones or wha tou get here, specially when the neg is b+w infrared. The best part of all this is I don't go through the expense of calibrating monitor to printer. I put the file into a CD and I go to one of many very good giclée printing labs here in Vancouver. In the long run I think I save money this way. The giclées (French artspeak for a well printed Epson print) look very good in either matte Epson art paper or in the slightly pebbled variety.

Missing from the other post is the that to achieve skin tones with b+w negs you have to scan the negs as colour negs.

This photo:



is easier or more complicated depending if you are willing to go the darkroom route. It is simply a b+w neg (I lit this outdoors with a Norman 200 and a softbox that I printed on the Hungarian photographic paper Forte. dodged the edges of the print and then selenium toned the print (1 to 3). And that's it.

And for something completely different:



A couple of years ago I tried with this first rose. Since then I have scanned all the roses of my garden. I do it at night since I keep the scanner uncovered and my living room ceiling which is white goes black at that time. I use littl thin bamboo sticks and wooden clothes pins to hold the roses over the scanner so that they amost touch the glass but don't. I make 100% size 1200 dpi scans that sometimes are over 600 megs in size. For more on plant scans look here:
http://thetyee.ca/Photo/2004/06/23/Gett … f_the_Box/

Do not post nudes on the forums.