Forums > Digital Art and Retouching > Best method to convert to BW

Photographer

biwa

Posts: 2594

Pinole, California, US

What works best using photoshop.
Also what considerations do you do for the different races ?

May 27 09 06:19 pm Link

Photographer

FotoMark

Posts: 2978

Oxnard, California, US

I use the B&W filter in photoshop, pretty accurate.

May 27 09 06:20 pm Link

Photographer

David Simpson Images

Posts: 1328

Bangor, Maine, US

I doubt there is a single "best". The best one is the one that works for the image that you are creating.

May 27 09 06:21 pm Link

Photographer

Plh Photography

Posts: 36

Caledonia, Michigan, US

Greg Gorman has a good technique. A pdf of the steps and how to create a Photoshop action is available on his website.

May 27 09 06:42 pm Link

Photographer

biwa

Posts: 2594

Pinole, California, US

Plh Photography wrote:
Greg Gorman has a good technique. A pdf of the steps and how to create a Photoshop action is available on his website.

Will take a look.
thxs

May 27 09 07:26 pm Link

Retoucher

Kevin_Connery

Posts: 3307

Fullerton, California, US

biwa wrote:
What works best using photoshop.

Yes, if you're using digital, using Photoshop is probably best. smile

OK, OK. "Best" is image-specific.

Good ways?

Gradient Map.
Black-and-White conversion layer (CS3/4) It uses a mix of the Hue/Saturation stack and selective color approaches, but puts them together in a single easier to use package.
Hue/Saturation stack (described below)
Lab's L channel
Greg Gorman's approach. Tutorial on his website (See under Learn)
The Light's Right tutorial

An easy, and often satisfactory approach is Julianne Kost/Russell Brown's approach, which uses 2 Hue/Saturation layers: the upper one to remove saturation, and the lower to permit fine-tuning of individual color ranges. That plus a custom curve can be made very effective for batch operations. Russell's video explains how. (This appears to be the basis for the B/W Conversion adjustment in CS3, but that’s a guess.)

A PDF of the handout I use in class summarizes the above and some other techniques is also available. It has links to more elaborate explanations.

The most powerful is probably using Calculations on channels, building things up until they're where you want them, but it's not obvious or intuitive. (Here's one tutorial to get you started.)

Jeff Schewe explains an excellent (if complex) conversion method in this PDF.

Northlight gives overviews of a number of techniques on this page.

biwa wrote:
Also what considerations do you do for the different races ?

Some of the techniques permit some adjustments based on hue or saturation. More important is knowing the overall balance of skin coloration, and what you want to emphasis. For example, all 'races' have, in RGB, a predominantly red bias, and that's where the least variation will show. A larger red component will reduce the visibility of blemishes, while a larger blue will emphasize those blemishes. Green often works as a compromise, with 'enough' texture. (Much of this can be seen with a little experimentation using the Black and White Adjustment layers in CS3 or later, but even looking at the original Red, Green, and Blue channels can show this.)

To emphasize skin texture--older people for 'character'--I often start with the blue channel, and mix the others in to taste. To DE-emphasize skin texture--younger people (especially models)--I often start with Red, and add the others to taste.

May 27 09 08:00 pm Link

Photographer

D Magi Visual Concepts

Posts: 2077

Los Angeles, California, US

You've GOT to see this.  It will help you tremendously.  For anyone wanting GREAT CONTROL of converting to b/w non-destructively.

http://av.adobe.com/russellbrown/CS3Color_To_BWSM.mov

May 27 09 08:25 pm Link

Photographer

DA PHOTO

Posts: 1540

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

I Flatten image and dodge and burn, after I

adjust contrast to my desired look.

First I  make separate  layers to adjust each colour using a combination of channel mixer,

curves, and levels and then adjust the opacity to suit my needs. I usually also work with a

monotone layer and a dual tone or tri-tone when applying the adjustments, as well as 

add/subtract a hit of colour in the highlightes, mid tones, and shadows using the

colour balance tone balance feature.

May 27 09 08:43 pm Link

Photographer

Rancho Santa Fe Photo

Posts: 1480

San Diego, California, US

Does anyone use Nik Silver Efex Pro?

May 27 09 08:51 pm Link

Photographer

Leroy Dickson

Posts: 8239

Flint, Michigan, US

Here's a tutorial I wrote a few years ago about various techniques.
http://www.dpchallenge.com/tutorial.php?TUTORIAL_ID=43

It doesn't include the B&W filter in CS3 or better.

?I also like Alien Skins Exposure, alot.

May 27 09 08:54 pm Link

Photographer

Brian Ziff

Posts: 4105

Los Angeles, California, US

you should never convert to black and white.  if an image is meant to be b&w, then desaturate it either in camera or traditionally and adjust everything afterwards...levels, highlights, shadows, whatever.

there is no "best" way.  there is just concept and final product.

May 27 09 08:55 pm Link

Photographer

Leroy Dickson

Posts: 8239

Flint, Michigan, US

Rancho Santa Fe Photo wrote:
Does anyone use Nik Silver Efex Pro?

Not yet, but I hear it's wonderful for conversions.

May 27 09 08:55 pm Link

Photographer

Michael Puff

Posts: 986

Montara, California, US

I've used a number of the PS techniques to convert to B&W...all work well depending on the original image and you're desired outcome, IMHO.

The last year or so, I've been doing my B&W conversions in ACR (Adobe Camera Raw).  I find the combination of the HSL/Greyscale tab along with the Tone Curve and Basic tabs to be quite powerful.  I'm getting a consistent and extremely satisfying result in ACR across a wide variety of images.  Fine tuning can easily be applied in PhotoShop.

May 27 09 09:48 pm Link

Photographer

Leroy Dickson

Posts: 8239

Flint, Michigan, US

Michael Puff wrote:
I've used a number of the PS techniques to convert to B&W...all work well depending on the original image and you're desired outcome, IMHO.

The last year or so, I've been doing my B&W conversions in ACR (Adobe Camera Raw).  I find the combination of the HSL/Greyscale tab along with the Tone Curve and Basic tabs to be quite powerful.  I'm getting a consistent and extremely satisfying result in ACR across a wide variety of images.  Fine tuning can easily be applied in PhotoShop.

You saving your settings as ACR defaults?

May 27 09 09:49 pm Link

Photographer

Michael Puff

Posts: 986

Montara, California, US

Leroy Dickson wrote:
You saving your settings as ACR defaults?

I haven't, but as a matter of workflow I suspect you could and tune from a basic set of defaults.  I approach each image individually because that's just me and I'm content with getting one image per editing session.  I do realize that won't work for many folks. 

I think you could also convert a single image from a photo session to B&W (particularly if from a controlled studio session) and synchronize those ACR settings to the other images in the session to get a head start on editing multiple images in ACR.

May 27 09 10:03 pm Link

Retoucher

Traciee D

Posts: 446

Lafayette, Louisiana, US

I don't really like the B&W feature in photoshop i mean if its' your thing than good by all means.  I prefer to duplicate the image and but a black and white gradient over it merge together and duplicate with soft light bring down and paint in the differences.

May 28 09 08:11 am Link

Retoucher

Retoucher

Posts: 199

Los Angeles, California, US

Kevin_Connery wrote:
Yes, if you're using digital, using Photoshop is probably best. smile

OK, OK. "Best" is image-specific.

Good ways?

Gradient Map.
Black-and-White conversion layer (CS3/4) It uses a mix of the Hue/Saturation stack and selective color approaches, but puts them together in a single easier to use package.
Hue/Saturation stack (described below)
Lab's L channel
Greg Gorman's approach. Tutorial on his website (See under Learn)
The Light's Right tutorial

An easy, and often satisfactory approach is Julianne Kost/Russell Brown's approach, which uses 2 Hue/Saturation layers: the upper one to remove saturation, and the lower to permit fine-tuning of individual color ranges. That plus a custom curve can be made very effective for batch operations. Russell's video explains how. (This appears to be the basis for the B/W Conversion adjustment in CS3, but that’s a guess.)

A PDF of the handout I use in class summarizes the above and some other techniques is also available. It has links to more elaborate explanations.

The most powerful is probably using Calculations on channels, building things up until they're where you want them, but it's not obvious or intuitive. (Here's one tutorial to get you started.)

Jeff Schewe explains an excellent (if complex) conversion method in this PDF.

Northlight gives overviews of a number of techniques on this page.
mit some adjustments based on hue or saturation. More important is knowing the overall balance of skin coloration, and what you want to emphasis. For example, all 'races' have, in RGB, a predominantly red bias, and that's where the least variation will show. A larger red component will reduce the visibility of blemishes, while a larger blue will emphasize those blemishes. Green often works as a compromise, with 'enough' texture. (Much of this can be seen with a little experimentation using the Black and White Adjustment layers in CS3 or later, but even looking at the original Red, Green, and Blue channels can show this.)

To emphasize skin texture--older people for 'character'--I often start with the blue channel, and mix the others in to taste. To DE-emphasize skin texture--younger people (especially models)--I often start with Red, and add the others to taste.

Kevin you always have the best lists.

I also like to tone my black and whites slightly because plain jane neutral is boring.

- Phen
There is an exercise I like to have people do and thats try the "basic" 9 ways to convert to black and white on the same image and then have them print out a contact sheet to see which works best for them. Truly it goes image by image.

May 28 09 08:25 am Link

Photographer

Michael McGowan

Posts: 3829

Tucson, Arizona, US

All the fancy conversions in the world won't mean much if your image is published. If it's in black and white, it will be converted to grayscale, which will wash out all the fun stuff we do, since it doesn't have the bit depth to hold the information.

For other purposes, though, I tend to agree that it's really image-specific. For most these days, I like to start with the black-and-white conversion in PS, then tweak the color levels a bit there. After I'm done there, I go into levels and then curves to get things where I need them for whichever purpose I need (publication, printing or Web).

May 28 09 08:31 am Link

Photographer

Lumigraphics

Posts: 32780

Detroit, Michigan, US

Black and white conversion filter. You are mapping a 16 or 8 bit color image to 8 bit greyscale, which just means adding or subtracting more color information. I have played around with other methods but its like fancy metering on a camera- no matter what, you always end up with one aperture and shutter speed per frame.

May 28 09 09:12 am Link

Photographer

Robert Randall

Posts: 13890

Chicago, Illinois, US

Try turning your image view to gray scale, then edit the image using conventional RGB tools such as curves with local and global masking, to get the tones to pop as you want them to. When satisfied, flatten the image and convert to grayscale with no change to the appearance of the final image.

I will also add the the statement about washing out when going to print due to 8 bit file depth, is not only wrong, it also makes no sense. Bit depth and half tone screens have nothing to do with one another. Any engraver worth a poop can make gray scale images explode off of newsprint, not to mention coated stock for magazines. You just need to know what you are doing.

May 28 09 11:31 am Link

Photographer

Michael Siu

Posts: 1225

New Orleans, Louisiana, US

Leroy Dickson wrote:
Here's a tutorial I wrote a few years ago about various techniques.
http://www.dpchallenge.com/tutorial.php?TUTORIAL_ID=43

It doesn't include the B&W filter in CS3 or better.

?I also like Alien Skins Exposure, alot.

I use Alien Skin Exposure 2 for all my conversions.  The new grain and the recreation of all of my old film favorites(plusX125, Tmax 100 and 3200) takes the "digital" feeling out of the conversion process.

May 28 09 11:36 am Link

Model

Gigi Wilde

Posts: 893

Wayne, New Jersey, US

Kevin_Connery wrote:
Good ways?

Gradient Map.
Black-and-White conversion layer (CS3/4) It uses a mix of the Hue/Saturation stack and selective color approaches, but puts them together in a single easier to use package.
Hue/Saturation stack (described below)
Lab's L channel
Greg Gorman's approach. Tutorial on his website (See under Learn)
The Light's Right tutorial

An easy, and often satisfactory approach is Julianne Kost/Russell Brown's approach, which uses 2 Hue/Saturation layers: the upper one to remove saturation, and the lower to permit fine-tuning of individual color ranges. That plus a custom curve can be made very effective for batch operations. Russell's video explains how. (This appears to be the basis for the B/W Conversion adjustment in CS3, but that’s a guess.)

A PDF of the handout I use in class summarizes the above and some other techniques is also available. It has links to more elaborate explanations.

The most powerful is probably using Calculations on channels, building things up until they're where you want them, but it's not obvious or intuitive. (Here's one tutorial to get you started.)

Jeff Schewe explains an excellent (if complex) conversion method in this PDF.

And people say black and white is easy.

May 28 09 11:38 am Link

Photographer

Click Hamilton

Posts: 36555

San Diego, California, US

Asking for a b/w conversion technique is like asking for a retouch technique.


It depends on the photo and it varies widely.


Polishing off a b/w image uses lots of the same tools that polishing off any other image requires.


One thing I can say is that b/w is far more than simply taking the color out of an image.

May 28 09 11:45 am Link

Photographer

biwa

Posts: 2594

Pinole, California, US

Click Hamilton wrote:
Asking for a b/w conversion technique is like asking for a retouch technique.


It depends on the photo and it varies widely.


Polishing off a b/w image uses lots of the same tools that polishing off any other image requires.


One thing I can say is that b/w is far more than simply taking the color out of an image.

This is the new "digital art and retouching" forum , I would expect more talk on technique than what I would get if I asked in "photography" forum.

Brian Ziff wrote:
you should never convert to black and white.  if an image is meant to be b&w, then desaturate it either in camera or traditionally and adjust everything afterwards...levels, highlights, shadows, whatever.

there is no "best" way.  there is just concept and final product.

If you shot RAW whats the diff?  That would make desaturating it in camera a moot issue wouldn't it?
What do you consider "traditionally"?

May 28 09 02:23 pm Link

Photographer

biwa

Posts: 2594

Pinole, California, US

Kevin_Connery wrote:

Yes, if you're using digital, using Photoshop is probably best. smile

There are other programs out there none of which I would have been interested in learning how to work BW with.  Thats why I specified Photoshop. smile


Good links and reads thanks .

May 28 09 02:26 pm Link

Photographer

Paul Bryson Photography

Posts: 48041

Hollywood, Florida, US

biwa wrote:
What works best using photoshop.
Also what considerations do you do for the different races ?

There are quite a few ways to go b/w in Photoshop.

As for different shades of skin, trial & error has worked for me. Individual results may vary. smile

May 28 09 02:29 pm Link

Photographer

Joseph Smileuske

Posts: 6506

Syracuse, New York, US

May 28 09 02:29 pm Link

Photographer

Andrew77uk

Posts: 320

Salisbury, England, United Kingdom

Forgive me for sounding dumb, but having looked at that previous link above, annnd trying that method, am I wondering why I took so many steps when I achieved the same result by using the Black and White filter Adjustment Layer :-s

May 28 09 02:43 pm Link

Photographer

Le Beck Photography

Posts: 4114

Los Angeles, California, US

Channel Mixer.

I've been using it for years and I often am asked if a photo was shot on pan film. I tried a bunch of the other methods in this thread and they either didn't give me what i wanted or they were just too damned time consuming and still didn't do one iota more than channel mixer. So I keep it simple with a battery of presets although I normally mimic Ilford FP4 with a yellow filter.

May 28 09 02:46 pm Link

Photographer

Andrew77uk

Posts: 320

Salisbury, England, United Kingdom

Now that previous comment brings back memories of an article, which I wish I could find explaining how to emulate popular films such as Kodak, Ilford, Fuji into photoshop, I believe also using the channel mixers. And the lovely part of that said artical, the film manufactures actually developed the method!

May 28 09 02:51 pm Link

Photographer

Photons 2 Pixels Images

Posts: 17011

Berwick, Pennsylvania, US

I use a combination of Calculations and the B&W conversion dialog, each on a separate layer with Calculations on top. Then I adjust Opacity and Fill on the Calculations layer. Then convert to Grayscale and hit it with some curves adjustments.

Sometimes I drop one or the other method depending on how it turns out. Sometimes I'll use the Lightness channel from Lab mode as one of the input layers to Calculations. That seems to work sometimes.

For me, I have no one set way. It's hit or miss. One method may work great for one image then the next look like crap. It takes me longer to finish a B&W than a color photo because I usually end up starting over a lot.

May 29 09 08:02 am Link

Photographer

Darin B

Posts: 998

San Diego, California, US

I like tweaking the WB and then using the HSL sliders in ACR (4.6). Any D&B, curves, etc...I do in PS.

May 29 09 02:19 pm Link

Photographer

Jeffs Photography

Posts: 3608

Dakota, Minnesota, US

Because I haven't had the patience to learn to do it on my own:

http://www.panosfx.com/index.php?option … Itemid=134

There should be a free download somewhere for "non" commercial use.

May 29 09 04:46 pm Link

Photographer

Richard Flaskegaard

Posts: 366

Delray Beach, Florida, US

Nik Silver Efex Pro.    Worth the money.  Great control and ability to add dimension/depth.  I've tried a bunch of the methods described here and they're good.  When it's crunch time and no time to play and experiment, you can't go wrong.   The key to Nik, and all techniques, is to start with the best color image.  Good BW becomes a piece of cake.

May 29 09 09:18 pm Link

Photographer

CGI Images

Posts: 4989

Wichita, Kansas, US

Jack Dog Studio wrote:
Nik Silver Efex Pro.    Worth the money.  Great control and ability to add dimension/depth.  I've tried a bunch of the methods described here and they're good.  When it's crunch time and no time to play and experiment, you can't go wrong.   The key to Nik, and all techniques, is to start with the best color image.  Good BW becomes a piece of cake.

Personally I love my Silver Efex Pro.

May 29 09 09:26 pm Link