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Best method to convert to BW
What works best using photoshop. Also what considerations do you do for the different races ? May 27 09 06:19 pm Link I use the B&W filter in photoshop, pretty accurate. May 27 09 06:20 pm Link I doubt there is a single "best". The best one is the one that works for the image that you are creating. May 27 09 06:21 pm Link Greg Gorman has a good technique. A pdf of the steps and how to create a Photoshop action is available on his website. May 27 09 06:42 pm Link Plh Photography wrote: Will take a look. May 27 09 07:26 pm Link biwa wrote: Yes, if you're using digital, using Photoshop is probably best. biwa wrote: Some of the techniques permit some adjustments based on hue or saturation. More important is knowing the overall balance of skin coloration, and what you want to emphasis. For example, all 'races' have, in RGB, a predominantly red bias, and that's where the least variation will show. A larger red component will reduce the visibility of blemishes, while a larger blue will emphasize those blemishes. Green often works as a compromise, with 'enough' texture. (Much of this can be seen with a little experimentation using the Black and White Adjustment layers in CS3 or later, but even looking at the original Red, Green, and Blue channels can show this.) May 27 09 08:00 pm Link You've GOT to see this. It will help you tremendously. For anyone wanting GREAT CONTROL of converting to b/w non-destructively. http://av.adobe.com/russellbrown/CS3Color_To_BWSM.mov May 27 09 08:25 pm Link I Flatten image and dodge and burn, after I adjust contrast to my desired look. First I make separate layers to adjust each colour using a combination of channel mixer, curves, and levels and then adjust the opacity to suit my needs. I usually also work with a monotone layer and a dual tone or tri-tone when applying the adjustments, as well as add/subtract a hit of colour in the highlightes, mid tones, and shadows using the colour balance tone balance feature. May 27 09 08:43 pm Link Does anyone use Nik Silver Efex Pro? May 27 09 08:51 pm Link Here's a tutorial I wrote a few years ago about various techniques. http://www.dpchallenge.com/tutorial.php?TUTORIAL_ID=43 It doesn't include the B&W filter in CS3 or better. ?I also like Alien Skins Exposure, alot. May 27 09 08:54 pm Link you should never convert to black and white. if an image is meant to be b&w, then desaturate it either in camera or traditionally and adjust everything afterwards...levels, highlights, shadows, whatever. there is no "best" way. there is just concept and final product. May 27 09 08:55 pm Link Rancho Santa Fe Photo wrote: Not yet, but I hear it's wonderful for conversions. May 27 09 08:55 pm Link I've used a number of the PS techniques to convert to B&W...all work well depending on the original image and you're desired outcome, IMHO. The last year or so, I've been doing my B&W conversions in ACR (Adobe Camera Raw). I find the combination of the HSL/Greyscale tab along with the Tone Curve and Basic tabs to be quite powerful. I'm getting a consistent and extremely satisfying result in ACR across a wide variety of images. Fine tuning can easily be applied in PhotoShop. May 27 09 09:48 pm Link Michael Puff wrote: You saving your settings as ACR defaults? May 27 09 09:49 pm Link Leroy Dickson wrote: I haven't, but as a matter of workflow I suspect you could and tune from a basic set of defaults. I approach each image individually because that's just me and I'm content with getting one image per editing session. I do realize that won't work for many folks. May 27 09 10:03 pm Link I don't really like the B&W feature in photoshop i mean if its' your thing than good by all means. I prefer to duplicate the image and but a black and white gradient over it merge together and duplicate with soft light bring down and paint in the differences. May 28 09 08:11 am Link Kevin_Connery wrote: Kevin you always have the best lists. May 28 09 08:25 am Link All the fancy conversions in the world won't mean much if your image is published. If it's in black and white, it will be converted to grayscale, which will wash out all the fun stuff we do, since it doesn't have the bit depth to hold the information. For other purposes, though, I tend to agree that it's really image-specific. For most these days, I like to start with the black-and-white conversion in PS, then tweak the color levels a bit there. After I'm done there, I go into levels and then curves to get things where I need them for whichever purpose I need (publication, printing or Web). May 28 09 08:31 am Link Black and white conversion filter. You are mapping a 16 or 8 bit color image to 8 bit greyscale, which just means adding or subtracting more color information. I have played around with other methods but its like fancy metering on a camera- no matter what, you always end up with one aperture and shutter speed per frame. May 28 09 09:12 am Link Try turning your image view to gray scale, then edit the image using conventional RGB tools such as curves with local and global masking, to get the tones to pop as you want them to. When satisfied, flatten the image and convert to grayscale with no change to the appearance of the final image. I will also add the the statement about washing out when going to print due to 8 bit file depth, is not only wrong, it also makes no sense. Bit depth and half tone screens have nothing to do with one another. Any engraver worth a poop can make gray scale images explode off of newsprint, not to mention coated stock for magazines. You just need to know what you are doing. May 28 09 11:31 am Link Leroy Dickson wrote: I use Alien Skin Exposure 2 for all my conversions. The new grain and the recreation of all of my old film favorites(plusX125, Tmax 100 and 3200) takes the "digital" feeling out of the conversion process. May 28 09 11:36 am Link Kevin_Connery wrote: And people say black and white is easy. May 28 09 11:38 am Link Asking for a b/w conversion technique is like asking for a retouch technique. It depends on the photo and it varies widely. Polishing off a b/w image uses lots of the same tools that polishing off any other image requires. One thing I can say is that b/w is far more than simply taking the color out of an image. May 28 09 11:45 am Link Click Hamilton wrote: This is the new "digital art and retouching" forum , I would expect more talk on technique than what I would get if I asked in "photography" forum. Brian Ziff wrote: If you shot RAW whats the diff? That would make desaturating it in camera a moot issue wouldn't it? May 28 09 02:23 pm Link Kevin_Connery wrote: There are other programs out there none of which I would have been interested in learning how to work BW with. Thats why I specified Photoshop. May 28 09 02:26 pm Link biwa wrote: There are quite a few ways to go b/w in Photoshop. May 28 09 02:29 pm Link May 28 09 02:29 pm Link Forgive me for sounding dumb, but having looked at that previous link above, annnd trying that method, am I wondering why I took so many steps when I achieved the same result by using the Black and White filter Adjustment Layer :-s May 28 09 02:43 pm Link Channel Mixer. I've been using it for years and I often am asked if a photo was shot on pan film. I tried a bunch of the other methods in this thread and they either didn't give me what i wanted or they were just too damned time consuming and still didn't do one iota more than channel mixer. So I keep it simple with a battery of presets although I normally mimic Ilford FP4 with a yellow filter. May 28 09 02:46 pm Link Now that previous comment brings back memories of an article, which I wish I could find explaining how to emulate popular films such as Kodak, Ilford, Fuji into photoshop, I believe also using the channel mixers. And the lovely part of that said artical, the film manufactures actually developed the method! May 28 09 02:51 pm Link I use a combination of Calculations and the B&W conversion dialog, each on a separate layer with Calculations on top. Then I adjust Opacity and Fill on the Calculations layer. Then convert to Grayscale and hit it with some curves adjustments. Sometimes I drop one or the other method depending on how it turns out. Sometimes I'll use the Lightness channel from Lab mode as one of the input layers to Calculations. That seems to work sometimes. For me, I have no one set way. It's hit or miss. One method may work great for one image then the next look like crap. It takes me longer to finish a B&W than a color photo because I usually end up starting over a lot. May 29 09 08:02 am Link I like tweaking the WB and then using the HSL sliders in ACR (4.6). Any D&B, curves, etc...I do in PS. May 29 09 02:19 pm Link Because I haven't had the patience to learn to do it on my own: http://www.panosfx.com/index.php?option … Itemid=134 There should be a free download somewhere for "non" commercial use. May 29 09 04:46 pm Link Nik Silver Efex Pro. Worth the money. Great control and ability to add dimension/depth. I've tried a bunch of the methods described here and they're good. When it's crunch time and no time to play and experiment, you can't go wrong. The key to Nik, and all techniques, is to start with the best color image. Good BW becomes a piece of cake. May 29 09 09:18 pm Link Jack Dog Studio wrote: Personally I love my Silver Efex Pro. May 29 09 09:26 pm Link |