Forums > Hair, Makeup & Styling > Disappearing makeup

Makeup Artist

Jackie McClay

Posts: 206

Brick, New Jersey, US

When I do makeup for shoots it always looks great in person and I go heavy on the blush and shadow but when I see the unedited images it looks like the blush just disappeared! What can I do about this? I use RCMA foundation and Mac blushes.

Apr 16 15 07:21 am Link

Photographer

Thomas Van Dyke

Posts: 3234

Washington, District of Columbia, US

Jackie McClay MUA wrote:
When I do makeup for shoots it always looks great in person and I go heavy on the blush and shadow but when I see the unedited images it looks like the blush just disappeared! What can I do about this? I use RCMA foundation and Mac blushes.

Jackie, I deal with this issue constantly... especially since I'm oft the MUA on the shoot, and occasionally the hair stylist also... 

Solution? Absolutely insist on Test Shots! BEFORE moving forward with the shoot...
Back in the day, Polaroids where the rule not the exception before a camera back with loaded with sheet film...
   
Do not go quietly here.. it is not only your right but it is your responsibility to verify that the photographer's illumination scenario is yielding the appropriate response to achieve a creative director's narrative...

Countless times I've had to reassure the talent that "No, you're not going to look like Raggedy Ann" the blush has to be over stated otherwise it will surely wash out on camera...

Hoping Dani B will chime in here since she comes from a Ballet & Theater background...  Stage makeup is overstated to the nines since stage lighting is crafted to create "drama" pun intended....  In fact most of the ballerinas I work with are superb makeup artist also and thus "get it"   They totally realized how over the top blush, conture, highlighter and eye decor needs to be in order to achieve a narrative under harsh stage lighting... 

Worried about going too far? Relax, translucent applied with a puff will easily mitigate even the brights blush if it is a tad too much...  just be certain to use a neutral setting medium here...  many powders are combined with colored pigment thus something like Ben Nye Neutral Set translucent powder is ideal for toning down if necessary...

Hope this helps...
All the best on your journey...

Apr 16 15 07:38 am Link

Photographer

martin b

Posts: 2770

Manila, National Capital Region, Philippines

As a photographer I always start with close ups.  That gives the makeup artist a chance to adjust.   While she adjusts the makeup I like to also adjust my lights.  I tend to shoot with a start and stop intent.  I like lots of pauses like the old film people did with polaroids.  I find that although the workflow isn't as fast, the results are much more controlled.  Everyone on set is allowed to pause the shoot for adjustments or ideas when it comes to a commercial shot.  I have learned that more makeup is better up front.  everything can be turned down a notch if i need to.

Apr 16 15 08:18 am Link

Photographer

Leonard Gee Photography

Posts: 18096

Sacramento, California, US

photographers vary in style, exposure and lighting just as make-up brands photograph differently. you learn with the photographer and the make-up brands. my mua knows that with my studio lighting, she has to darken some shades up to 1 1/2 tones. for beauty work, we also test. when she is about to start on eyes, she can ask for a test shot to see where the tones are. then we take another test before she completes.

i also warn the mua if the shot is low key - and the tones will show up darker. this is all usually covered in the pre-production meeting when everything is hashed out before anyone starts. always look at the digital or polaroid, not the just the face. you want to see how it photographs in the end.

Apr 16 15 09:50 am Link

Photographer

Ken Marcus Studios

Posts: 9421

Las Vegas, Nevada, US

Jackie McClay MUA wrote:
When I do makeup for shoots it always looks great in person and I go heavy on the blush and shadow but when I see the unedited images it looks like the blush just disappeared! What can I do about this? I use RCMA foundation and Mac blushes.

If I've learned anything about makeup throughout the course of my magazine career, it's that you should never believe your own eyes . . . only go by what you see on the computer monitor (or in the old days, what you saw on the polaroid).

Apr 16 15 09:57 am Link

Makeup Artist

Jackie McClay

Posts: 206

Brick, New Jersey, US

Ah test shots! You know, I never thought to ask! Thank you all!

Apr 16 15 10:43 am Link

Photographer

Mark Salo

Posts: 11734

Olney, Maryland, US

Thomas Van Dyke wrote:
Countless times I've had to reassure the talent that "No, you're not going to look like Raggedy Ann" the blush has to be over stated otherwise it will surely wash out on camera...

Does this hold true for natural light?

Apr 16 15 12:58 pm Link

Photographer

JONATHAN RICHARD

Posts: 778

New York, New York, US

Jackie McClay MUA wrote:
Disappearing makeup .

Thought this was going to be about sticky fingers ....never mind ...carry on

Apr 16 15 01:05 pm Link

Photographer

Thomas Van Dyke

Posts: 3234

Washington, District of Columbia, US

Mark Salo wrote:
Does this hold true for natural light?

Mark, this is highly variable depending on the "quality" of daylight involved... Case in point, direct unfiltered midday sunlight is possibly one of the harshest illumination sources to deal with...  If doing a beauty narrative, invariably a scrim is mandated... That said, defused heavy overcast is possibly the most forgiving illumination source available at any price.... mother nature's huge soft-box in the sky...  one of the most faltering scenarios for skin texture... 

Once again, test shots are to be cherished... as mentioned above best to get the closeup beauty renderings early on.... even though makeup travels gracefully, lip gloss especially is problematic... needs to be refreshed repeatedly... also talent tend to go dewy with time requiring translucent i.e mattifying powder to kill any shine especially in the T-Zone... 

Daylight also varies from 2,800K at sunrise/set to 10,000K (and more) for only northern clear blue sky when direct sunlight is blocked out...  such wide color anomalies can (and do) effect the perceived hue/chroma of pigments used in makeup even when a careful color balance workflow is adhered to...   To the point skilled bridal makeup artist typically have completely different color and intensity choices for morning verses mid day verses evening brides...  the challenge here is since weddings are an event where the bride is being viewed closeup in real-time an artist has to balance between how the "look" will be perceived in the context of a social gathering verses how it will photograph... it's a delicate balance to be sure...

Hope this helps...

Apr 16 15 03:04 pm Link

Photographer

Mark Salo

Posts: 11734

Olney, Maryland, US

Mark Salo wrote:
Does this hold true for natural light?

Thomas Van Dyke wrote:
Mark, this is highly variable depending on the "quality" of daylight involved...

Thank you, Thomas.  Your post and another by GPS today have justified the cost of my VIP membership for another year.

Apr 16 15 04:04 pm Link

Makeup Artist

MeganCalfoMakeup

Posts: 68

Los Angeles, California, US

No matter what lighting you're shooting in, you ALWAYS must do a test shot. Always insist on one, no matter what. I love when photographers have their lap top with them and they can take a photo and you instantly see it on a monitor, it makes my job so much easier because you can see exactly what the makeup looks like throughout the shoot.

But, always do a test shot, examine the makeup and adjust accordingly. Usually you just have to go pretty heavy, especially if the photos will be in black and grey, then you must go very heavy for it to translate. As long as everything is blended properly, it will be okay.

Hope this helps!

Apr 17 15 02:03 pm Link

Makeup Artist

Danielle Blazer

Posts: 846

Los Angeles, California, US

It's a generalization, but a good rule of thumb is to remember that 30-40% of what you see with the naked eye will disappear in the photograph. The amount of color on the face you "lose" in theatrical settings can bump as high as 70%, which is why stage makeup looks so extreme in natural light conditions. The light conditions the photograph is being taken in matter too, for example is this a high key shot? If so, adjustments will need to be made. This is one reason why makeup artists love highly pigmented cosmetics, they allow us to apply less makeup and still achieve the color depth and vibrancy we need. MAC blushes today contain a fraction of the pigment they used to many years ago, that might be part of the problem. Try La Femme or Ben Nye for an inexpensive option with a lot more pigment. If consumer-popular brands are important to you or your clients NARS give a more professional end result than does MAC.

In the meantime, ask to see the test shots as others have mentioned and consider your lighting more carefully.

Apr 21 15 02:15 pm Link

Makeup Artist

Jackie McClay

Posts: 206

Brick, New Jersey, US

JONATHAN RICHARD wrote:

Thought this was going to be about sticky fingers ....never mind ...carry on

Oh no sorry lol although I've had that happen plenty of times lol very frustrating

Apr 22 15 06:33 am Link

Makeup Artist

Camera Ready Studios

Posts: 7191

Dallas, Texas, US

check the monitor.  That's where I make my adjustments.

Apr 22 15 09:25 pm Link