Forums > Hair, Makeup & Styling > Foundation problems...

Photographer

Kelly R

Posts: 58

Las Vegas, Nevada, US

Hi all!! I'm just wondering what other Mua's use in their kit for dry skin?

I done a wedding makeup trial for two people this month, the first time I used Mac Pro long wear as they wanted full matte coverage and something to last all day long. Initially they were happy but then called me a few hours later to say it felt very dry and tight and they had to wash it off.
I agreed to do a re-trial where I then tried Chanel lumiere Aqua on one side of their faces and makeup forever hd on the other. They again said they were happy but then called a few a hours later to say it didn't last and within a couple of hours turned patchy.. One had normal skin and the other lady had slightly dry skin.

What am I doing wrong?? I ALWAYS prep the skin my exfoliating, cleansing and moisturising, followed by a colour corrector before foundation. I apply the foundation in thin layers and build up if more is needed.

Is there such thing as a full coverage non drying long lasting all day foundation?? If so I would love to know what it is!! big_smile

Also what do others use to contour? I usually use foundation and then a neutral matte bronzer on top to contour + highlighter but would like to know what foundation is good to contour with, has anyone tried the Bobbi brown foundation stick?

I've been doing makeup freelancing for 3 years or so now and these are the 2nd lot of people that didn't like my work.. I know it's not that many people but still knocks my confidence a bit..

Thanks in advance!

Apr 21 15 02:35 am Link

Photographer

Thomas Van Dyke

Posts: 3234

Washington, District of Columbia, US

kelly melissa wrote:
...wondering what other Mua's use in their kit for dry skin?

Kelly this is one of the primary reason's Agencies prefer to sign artist who are licensed Estheticians...  the epidermis is incredibly complex, your skin is the largest organ in the body... and every person's epidermis varies especially facial skin since it's constantly exposed to the elements... Also please keep in mind that hormonal changes due to the menstrual cycle wreak havoc on the feminine complexion, sometimes with the precision of the lunar cycles...     

Also take heart since your recent issues have been with bridal clients... Which, btw are legendary for extremely high expectations... (they are constantly reading those bridal magazines which create unrealistic delusions of grandeur}...  So not to worry, just accept each and every challenge as just that... and learn from them...

kelly melissa wrote:
I used Mac Pro long wear as they wanted full matte coverage and something to last all day long...

Kelly while this is indeed long wearing unfortunately it contains Dimethicone (Dimethyl polysiloxane)...  Think silicone here... This Emollient is a known risk which can induce/increase acne... 

A better choice from MAC might have been Full Coverage Foundation, albeit it is not user friendly and requires tenure to apply effectively... this is the primary reason why it's not available in MAC Stores since it would not be practical to have it's artist attempt to demo/train retail clientele in it's use... Sadly it contains Dimethicone also but considerably less than Pro Long Wear....

That said, possibly the real issue here is in your skin prep workflow... although you mention

kelly melissa wrote:
...I ALWAYS prep the skin my exfoliating, cleansing and moisturising...

Have you considered using a topical barrier cream? Oft called a "Primer" these can and do protect the epidermis and are SOP for body painters who absolutely must assure the safety of their clients since they are subjecting massive areas of the epidermis to a myriad of chemical agents... And is one of the primary reasons I will not consider body painting gigs... the liability is too great for my personal professional comfort zone...  There are many excellent barrier creams on the market... do your research to be certain that they harmonize well with the foundations/concealers you introduce into your workflow...

Best "Quick and Easy" fix?  Please consider RCMA's vegetable oil based foundations...  They have been an industry standard for over half a century... they work wonderfully... albeit like MAC Full Coverage they are a highly pigmented heavy cream and require significant tenure to achieve flawless coverage... the good news is they are so highly pigmented you can use them straight as concealer... thus no need to carry extra product in your kit...  btw, I have done hundreds and hundreds of faces with RCMA and have never had an allergic reaction...

Best Long Term Solution?  Learn to air brush... then you'll have a choice between silicone based or water based foundations... I use TEMPTU S/B for bridal and it out last any traditional foundation by an order of magnitude... Yes you must be very careful about what you use in your workflow... I would recommend staying within TEMPTU's product suite initially to be certain that all components work in complete synergy here...

As for Bridezillas?  Once you embrace their reality (however arcane) the easier your bridal assignments will be... They are indeed the absolute center of the universe... and you are well severed if you understand it is THEIR special day... If any bridal makeup artist states that they have exceeded their clients expectations on every occasion they are likely prodigious equivocators who's claims are to be taken with a grain of salt...

Remember you're in a highly competitive market (London) in a highly competitive service (bridal)
With time and tenure your ability to exceed expectations can/will rise accordingly...

Hope this helps...
All the best on your journey Kelly...

Apr 21 15 08:22 am Link

Photographer

Kelly R

Posts: 58

Las Vegas, Nevada, US

Thank you so much Thomas! Very informative.. At college I was just taught 'oily skin shouldn't have foundation with oil in and dry skin should' blah, not anything in depth really so since then it's just been trial and error for me, but people's skin types can be so different..

As for primer I use shu eumera under base brightening mousse for oily skin/ normal skin, givenchy acti mine for dry/ normal skin, do you think that's enough of a variety? I guess they aren't specifically primers but they seem to work as Primers as well as colour correctors so thought on top of moisturiser that would be enough on the skin before foundation.

I've heard of the rmca one, I will have to check that out! I have some graftobian creams already but am unsure about them, they never seem to sit long on after the skin even after prepping and setting with a powder/ spray etc.. Is the rcma one much different?

Does the airbrush makeup cling to any bits? I haven't heard of that airbrush makeup brand over here

Apr 21 15 09:19 am Link

Photographer

Thomas Van Dyke

Posts: 3234

Washington, District of Columbia, US

kelly melissa wrote:
...I've heard of the rmca one, I will have to check that out! I have some graftobian creams already but am unsure about them, they never seem to sit long on after the skin even after prepping and setting with a powder/ spray etc.. Is the rcma one much different?

I was training to ALWAYS set a cream product with translucent applied on a puff...  And to press it in rather firmly with a rolling motion... then follow up with a large dome powder brush to sweep away excess translucent... btw, always sweep your powder brush in the direction of fine facial hair growth so as to not make it stand up which will make it far more visible especially is strong side illumination is used... and togs oft use kicker lights to add drama... 

I've never had any serious issues with RCMA moving once set... Caveat!  If your client is on anti-biotic medication or they have recently had a chemical peel... Then there are most likely the potential for creams not to remain in place and slide on the skin's surface... I always caution bridal clients not to do chemical peels or microdermabrasion within three weeks of their special day.... 

You would be amazed at how many brides totally freak out and decide to get a chemical peel the day before their event... Total disaster!  The only option then is airbrush which actually lays atop the skin in a fine veil like cover...  while creams work there way into the skin's texture (a.k.a. pores)...

kelly melissa wrote:
Does the airbrush makeup cling to any bits?

Kelly TEMPTU S/B is the most tenacious product I've used, only lip stains last longer... We are talking 24 to 48 hours...
I've used it on my skin and it's still there after several showers...  though it is easily removed with eye makeup remover...

kelly melissa wrote:
I haven't heard of that airbrush makeup brand over here

Kelly, TEMPTU is available in London at the following...

Backstage Shop
9 Northway
London, N9 0AD
Fax: 0208.887.0072
www.backstageshop.co.uk

Precious About MakeupPodsPro
6 Goldhawk Mews
Shepherds Bush, London W12 8PA
44.0.20.8740.0808
www.preciousaboutmakeup.com

Screenface
20 Powis Terrace
Notting Hill, London W11 1JH
020.7221.8289
www.screenface.com

Guru Makeup Emporium
Studio 4 Filmer Mews 75 Filmer Road
Fulham, London SW6 7JF
44.0.207.731.4646
www.gurumakeupemporium.com

Hope this helps...

Apr 21 15 11:54 am Link

Makeup Artist

Danielle Blazer

Posts: 846

Los Angeles, California, US

Patchiness indicates a problem with either the compatibility of your prep products and your foundation or a problem with the skin itself. Without seeing the skin in person and knowing every product they use, every product you used, and every medication they are on, it's impossible to diagnose the problem accurately. Making educated guesses, I'd bet on the foundation and prep products not playing nicely, which can often cause problems with "lifting" foundation and foundation longevity.

Apr 21 15 02:20 pm Link

Photographer

Thomas Van Dyke

Posts: 3234

Washington, District of Columbia, US

kelly melissa wrote:
...As for primer I use shu eumera under base brightening mousse for oily skin/ normal skin, givenchy acti mine for dry/ normal skin, do you think that's enough of a variety? I guess they aren't specifically primers but they seem to work as Primers as well as colour correctors so thought on top of moisturiser that would be enough on the skin before foundation....

Hey Kelly... was at the Mall yesterday and noticed the MAC Store was actually nearly devoid of clients!  Is Mercury in retrograde?  lol  So carpe diem I go in an find the MAC Store's lead artist (Tina who is totally awesome!) available and asking what was I looking for... to which I broached your challenge of a bridal client and Pro Longwear Foundation...

Reply? Yep, this is a frequent issue with Pro Longwear Foundation since it is formulated to dry to a matte finish...   

Solution? First: Always use MAC Soften Lotion to prime...  says it's critical to counter the drying effects of Pro Longwear... Second: Always immediately follow a Pro Longwear application with Fix Plus finishing spray... this will go a long ways to refresh the skin... Third: Set the final surface with Studio Careblend Powder which is formulated to provide the skin with extra nourishment and comfort... 

btw... Tina would love to hear back on this since she is absolutely certain it should achieve the excellence you cherish...

Disclaimer: I currently do not work for MAC Cosmetics...  at least not yet... lol

Hope this helps...
Again all the best with your bridal clientele Kelly...

Apr 23 15 05:57 am Link

Photographer

Kelly R

Posts: 58

Las Vegas, Nevada, US

thank you dani, yes sorry i guess it is quite hard to tell! her skin felt normal and looked normal but when i tried a certain foundation on it was difficult to spread evenly and clung to patches not visible before (took that foundation off of course) and she said it did get dry often, maybe it was dehydrated?
is there any ingredients in particular in primers and foundations you should not put in top of eachother?

Apr 24 15 01:34 pm Link

Photographer

Kelly R

Posts: 58

Las Vegas, Nevada, US

ah thank you so much thomas! you're amazing. i actually went into my nearest mac store earlier, drove 20 miles there only to be told they don't do the mac pro discount!! argh!! think cause it was in a department store.. i usually order online but the marine softening lotion is out of stock so i guess i'll just have to be patient and wait lol.. did you try out any of the products you mentioned?

Apr 24 15 01:39 pm Link

Makeup Artist

MeganCalfoMakeup

Posts: 68

Los Angeles, California, US

I think you may need to add some new products to your skincare kit. For dry skin, I'd recommend a moisturizing cream. I love Origins GinZing Moisturizing cream, very rich and hydrating yet light enough to wear under makeup. I totally recommend Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream, it has a texture that's similar to vaseline, incredibly moisturizing and gives the skin a beautiful dewy glow.

Try this…
Get Mario Badescu Cucumber Cleansing Lotion, it is a toner, but it does not dry out this skin. Apply this first, it will remove and excess dirt and oils and a little bit of dry skin.
Then, apply a moisturizing cream. I love Origins, Charlotte Tilbury's Magic Cream is to die for, but it's about $90 sad
Apply an eye cream as well, I love Khiel's Avocado Eye Cream Treatment.
DO NOT apply a primer, this could dry out the skin, it's meant to fill in/smooth over poors. Dry skin needs to breathe.

Do not use a long wear foundation. Try foundations that say Lumiere, Luminous, Illuminating etc. Like, NARS Sheer Glow, MAKEUP FOR EVER HD (it isn't meant to be luminous, but it's an amazing foundation), CHANEL Perfection Lumiere, Gorgio Armani Luminous Silk, Laura Mercier Silk Cream Foundation, etc.
I've noticed MAC foundations tend to be a bit drying, but my favorite is Studio Sculpt.

All of the foundations I mentioned can be full coverage, just build in layers. Try using a damp beauty blender, this method is very moisturizing.

Also, use a finely milled, light weight powder. I love MAC Mineralize Skin Finish Natural powders, they're very sheer and look beautiful on the skin.

Hope this helps!

May 01 15 11:40 am Link