Forums > Hair, Makeup & Styling > What came first - foundation or the eyes?

Makeup Artist

Makeup Art by Tamara

Posts: 66

Scottsdale, Arizona, US

Hi everyone,

I'm sure I'll get both sides of the coin on this one but I wrestle with this each and every time I map out a face. Do you prefer to start with the skin (foundation, concealer, etc) or the eyes? I've always been an eyes-first MUA because that is how I was taught, and I DETEST fallout. Plus, I can't seem to prevent it no matter what primer/shadow/brushes/technique I use. That said, I would love to transition to be a skin-first MUA, as I think looking at a finished complexion and brows will make for a better thought-out eye look. So, how do you skin-first MUAs prevent or catch fallout? I have seen ridiculous amount of powder placed underneath the eyes to catch fallout. Is that a good way? And if so, what powders specifically are best for doing that? Right now I prefer Ben Nye Translucent Set (white) under eyes for fair skin, but will that cause a halo in photographs? And what about for darker skin tones? Or do you not use powder, and instead go back under eyes and clean and re-conceal? I must say, I do not like stick-on eye shields or tape. I do not like to pull any delicate skin under eyes, and I would not want that done to me! Any feedback is appreciated! Thank you!

Feb 29 16 04:43 pm Link

Photographer

Thomas Van Dyke

Posts: 3233

Washington, District of Columbia, US

Makeup Art by Tamara wrote:
...foundation or the eyes?

Tamara first compliments on your commercial web portal... nicely done...  That said, do you actually think it is germane to apply eye decor over bare skin?  Seriously... Maybe if you are using creams but absolutely no way for powder... it needs a base to adhere to... thus you'll have to apply foundation to the lids first... Yes there are eye "primers" such as Urban Decay's Eyeshadow Primer Potion which can/does help with creasing... Other vendors offer similar product...

Assuming you are prepping the client's (or talent's) skin first with moisturizer/primer... after allowing the aforementioned time to soak in next color match if using a heavy cream such as RCMA or MAC full coverage... and apply from top of face down to the thru the eyes.... However do not go below there... next apply your eye decor... once you're finished complete the foundation the rest of the way down... no worries with fallout staining foundation below the eye...

Now the actually issue... If you are having serious fallout problems there maybe be several reasons...  Are you using highly pigmented powder? cheap stuff looks pretty in the container, but is a bear to build color without massive amounts... don't buy cheap color palettes... Next sadly so many folks just don't get it when it comes to loading their brush... I've found lightly stroking my kolinsky sable eyeshadow brushes in product then swirling them on the soft skin on the underside of my forearm to build/load the brush evenly works bests...  Cheap Brushes? They just don't work well... sorry but you get what you pay for... and they will generate fallout big-time...

Makeup Art by Tamara wrote:
...prefer Ben Nye Translucent Set (white) under eyes for fair skin, but will that cause a halo in photographs?

Tamara, Ben Nye Translucent is an industry standard... "Halo in photographs" is an illumination issue i.e. the tog is using hard lighting and is clueless about angle of incidence/angle of reflectance... The photographer should ALWAYS take test shots and adjust the angle of illumination (or defuse the source) if there is an issue with bounce back... It is a poor photographer who blames team members for his/her ignorance... enough said...

Makeup Art by Tamara wrote:
And what about for darker skin tones?

The market if full of darker shades of translucent... Butternut is my go to... not an issue... however I do a considerable number of women of color... absolutely love their rich warm skin tones... allows for using far more vibrant hue/chroma eye; lip and cheek decor...

 

Makeup Art by Tamara wrote:
I do not like to pull any delicate skin under eyes, and I would not want that done to me!

You're using the wrong tool... surgical tape... 3M makes nearly a  dozen different options... low adhesion being a fav here... btw I use this all the time with airbrush... no issue...

Hope this helps... and you're right every artist finds their own path here.. what works for one may or may not work for another... it's more likely the level of technical savvy, not the product/tool that makes the difference... At least in my humble estimation...

Feb 29 16 07:47 pm Link

Makeup Artist

Makeup Art by Tamara

Posts: 66

Scottsdale, Arizona, US

Thank you Thomas! I always prep eyelids with the foundation I plan to use, i.e.: Face Atelier, RCMA, MUFE HD, etc (not usually MAC). However, almost all of my shadows are MAC. I am not one to buy cheap or low-quality makeup. And yes, I ALWAYS moisturize the skin at least 15 min before applying foundation. I did not know about the surgical tape though! Will definitely give it a try! Glad the Ben Nye is the right option. I've not had issues with it, and I love it. I just didn't know if loading it on to capture fallout could affect its photogenic nature. Thanks again for all the great feedback! smile

Feb 29 16 09:02 pm Link

Makeup Artist

Anais Ferraguti

Posts: 3

Paris, Île-de-France, France

Hello Tamara,

I'm the foundation then eyes kind of makeup artist too (unless I know I'm gonna go a very strong eyelook wich gonna involves loose products like pigments and glitters but that's the only case) so maybe I can help.

There's several ways to prevents fallouts. The classic one consists in simply pressing a folded tissue under the model's eyes and cheeks so any fallouts would go on the tissue. But as a clumsy girl myself its not whats works best for me, plus you always have a hand busy holding the tissue so not very practical.
My favorite is slightly spraying my brush with a makeup spray (at the moment i'm using mac fix+) before going in the eyeshadow pan. It helps the shadows stick on the lid and give the colors a better payoff.
You can also use cream eyeshadows, then you're sure to be falloutsfree. There are pretty awesome ones on the market, I mostly use the maybelline ones, but pretty much every brand does some (mufe, mac, laura mercier, etc) I can't find them
here in france but the Charlotte Tilbury looks freaking amazing.

Yeah so those were my tips, but I never ever put a huge amount of powder under the eye area, I hate the texture and look that it gives to the skin.

xxx

Mar 03 16 06:36 pm Link

Model

Figures Jen B

Posts: 790

Phoenix, Arizona, US

Anais Ferraguti wrote:
Hello Tamara,

I'm the foundation then eyes kind of makeup artist too (unless I know I'm gonna go a very strong eyelook wich gonna involves loose products like pigments and glitters but that's the only case) so maybe I can help.

There's several ways to prevents fallouts. The classic one consists in simply pressing a folded tissue under the model's eyes and cheeks so any fallouts would go on the tissue. But as a clumsy girl myself its not whats works best for me, plus you always have a hand busy holding the tissue so not very practical.
...
xxx

Maybe tack the tissue down with two little dabs of the tape, that way the tape isn't on the delicate eye area but, further away?

Jen
p.s. I'm older and my under eye area doesn't respond well to lots of patting, primer and powder or tugging.
here is the non art profile https://www.modelmayhem.com/2196584

Mar 04 16 08:05 am Link

Body Painter

Lisa Berczel

Posts: 4132

New Castle, Pennsylvania, US

short answer... it depends.

If I'm doing clean beauty or lighter makeup looks, then foundation first. This helps me not "over do" the eyes.
If it's all about the eyes or dark shadows, then eyes first.

I was taught that as far as layering of products goes, that Less is More. So, I don't like piling on product "just because"... for example, only use eye primer if the model has oily skin.

I also use airbrush most of the time, so it's handy to use foundation to further blend shadow edges.

And, I discovered along the way that a cotton bud moistened with primer is a perfect fallout pick-upper that doesn't disturb products underneath.

Some eye shadow brands and colors just have more fallout than others (why I don't have MAC shadows in my pallet and had to give away one of my favorite MUFE shadows...) My go-to shadow pallets are by Yaby.

Mar 04 16 10:21 am Link

Makeup Artist

Makeup Art by Tamara

Posts: 66

Scottsdale, Arizona, US

Thank you! I'm surprised to hear MAC has the potential for a lot of fallout. I have experienced this mostly with Urban Decay, not as much with MAC. Guess I'll try the Yaby ones!

Mar 15 16 04:16 pm Link

Photographer

R.EYE.R

Posts: 3436

Tokyo, Tokyo, Japan

You could dust lightly with translucent powder under the eyes so that fallout doesn't stick to the skin, then simply brush it off once you are done.

Mar 15 16 06:42 pm Link

Makeup Artist

MUAMichy

Posts: 2

New Brunswick, New Jersey, US

Makeup Art by Tamara wrote:
Hi everyone,

I'm sure I'll get both sides of the coin on this one but I wrestle with this each and every time I map out a face. Do you prefer to start with the skin (foundation, concealer, etc) or the eyes? I've always been an eyes-first MUA because that is how I was taught, and I DETEST fallout. Plus, I can't seem to prevent it no matter what primer/shadow/brushes/technique I use. That said, I would love to transition to be a skin-first MUA, as I think looking at a finished complexion and brows will make for a better thought-out eye look. So, how do you skin-first MUAs prevent or catch fallout? I have seen ridiculous amount of powder placed underneath the eyes to catch fallout. Is that a good way? And if so, what powders specifically are best for doing that? Right now I prefer Ben Nye Translucent Set (white) under eyes for fair skin, but will that cause a halo in photographs? And what about for darker skin tones? Or do you not use powder, and instead go back under eyes and clean and re-conceal? I must say, I do not like stick-on eye shields or tape. I do not like to pull any delicate skin under eyes, and I would not want that done to me! Any feedback is appreciated! Thank you!

Hi Tamara!

I'm a skin-first MUA and I think the major reason why is because I like to make sure the skin prep and foundation can set in while I do the eyes on my client. I won't set my foundation with any setting powders until AFTER the eyes--just in case massive fallout occurs. But what I've found works best for me is 1.) Tapping the brush against a hard surface to get rid of any excess product, and 2.) using the "baking" method under the eyes. This is my go-to application because swiping away the powder after the eyes will always swipe away any fallout. And, if you have to reapply any eyeshadow and you've already wiped away the baking powder, a simple fan brush will do the trick to get rid of any pestering remnants. My favorite (and I mean FAVORITE) baking powder is the Laura Mercier Translucent Powder--this powder brightens up the under-eye area so delicately and works on ANY skin tone--they have different powders but what's nice about this one specifically is that it is more of a bone color and not so white. It gives a more natural look in my opinion. Good luck!!

MUAMichy

Mar 21 16 08:02 am Link

Makeup Artist

Makeup Art by Tamara

Posts: 66

Scottsdale, Arizona, US

Thank you everyone! I recently did makeup for a wedding and decided to give the foundation-first method a go. I did the massive powder under the eyes (used Ben Nye Translucent Set on fair girls and Ben Nye Buff loose powder on medium-skinned girls), and it was fabulous! It actually made my whole application process seem quicker also for some reason. So glad I tried it! smile

Apr 04 16 11:38 pm Link