Forums > Critique > Serious Critique > Shaking off the Rust

Model

Heidi Gaines

Posts: 236

Los Angeles, California, US

Modeled for a long time, took a long break, making a comeback as an artist from traditional to performance and advocate for invisible disabilities.

In 2018 I have worked hard to prepare for a planned timed release of a website/3 months pre-planned social media release/Patreon/etc. Organizing through four old computers of images, doing fresh shoots to mix in, studying marketing myself as a brand, exploring through making old (ex modeling) and new (ex sculpture stop motion animation) artwork, writing copy, relearning editing and applying the lessons on every shoot I'm given permission for, trying to figure out the current 'game' of how to navigate the industry into success because after nearly a decade it's changed. Recognizing I've been hitting a few of the same walls too many times and need help.

Tested modeling again over the last half a year. Didn't know if it was still a good fit for me. Do I still like it? Will I still be hired by it enough to make a living? Gotten into editing and self portrait photography as well. After nearly a decade the industry has changed a lot (pay lower, more creeps) and I feel rather fish out of water. I bring a lot to the table -modeling, cultivated/designed/sewn varied wardrobe for styling, hair/makeup, art direction, props, location scouting, editing, studying improved techniques for all of them on a regular basis, specialize in working with those practicing directing by learning what they want/need and teaching them tips how to direct a model to achieve this or that look among other things learned in the aforementioned studying- and I have no idea what to charge for any of it.

Worse, as I've slowly posted edits into an album of New Works, I've tried to combine multiple shots from the same shoots into one so it only takes up one space and the whole visual is suffering for it. I know what needs to be done but want the validation and more honed experienced words to help that begrudging feeling over the edge into action that results in a stronger package both visually and in the profile.

I had a massive health crash that disabled me for nearly a decade. There was memory loss due to a period of extreme migraines in the beginning so I have had to relearn as much as recover toward working again as an advocate for invisible disabilities. I can tell when I'm doing something I used to know how to do well and it's incredibly frustrating. So it's time I sought out some useful advice.

Thank you so much in advance!

Nov 03 18 03:36 pm Link

Photographer

Shadow Dancer

Posts: 9777

Bellingham, Washington, US

You have some lovely work, but not everything holds up. You have two photos with angel wings, at the very least delete one of them. I would remove them both.
The composites with 2 or 3 images are probably ok for now but there is one that has many more. Take the best 3 and create a new single image.

It's a start, best of luck to you!

Nov 04 18 11:21 pm Link

Photographer

Photo Art by LJ

Posts: 224

Las Vegas, Nevada, US

I'm not sure if we're allowed to mention, when critiquing a model's portfolio, if we feel a photo is bad due to the photography? But I'd ditch this photo, as the lighting isn't attractive:

https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/pic/2059330

It seems many photos are from 2006 or around then. When looking at a model portfolio, I'm looking to see if i want to hire that model. Unfortunately, photos that are more than a few years old just aren't helpful at all in that regard, and a waste of time. If a model's portfolio is made up entirely of those photos, I'll just move on to the next model in my search. I'd ditch your older photos, no matter how nice or how much you like them or how many comments they have, or at least move them to a separate folder marked '2008 and earlier' or something like that, to save time for photographers looking for your current look and modeling ability.

This is one of the better ones in your port, and it's current:
https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/pic/43979146

In this one, I personally like the image on the right side the best, by far:
https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/pic/44685926

The make-up is better IMO, and you look like a real fashion model.

Many of the other photos I don't know quite what to make of them. For instance, this style of photo might be something a photographer might show off, to show his creativity, but for a model it doesn't really show *you* or your facial expression, as you're nearly completely covered:
https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/pic/44060509

Some of the expressions here feel amateurish and like snapshots to me:
https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/pic/43979147

Perhaps that's meant to show off some of your personality, and I'm getting a sense that you have a fun personality, but as a photographer I personally wouldn't want to capture facial expressions (the most important part of a model's job) like the one in the lower left or upper right from that montage. Maybe other photographers feel different.

I think if you could get a lot more in your port more of the caliber of the 2 images I mentioned above -- and captured recently showing your current look -- you'd have a bit more marketing power. Not sure if it's worth it to you, but if you could hire a couple really good photographers to refresh your port, that'd really help. But I'm not sure how much you model and if you'd feel that's worth it to you.

As for your modeling (ignoring the photographic quality of the images), I feel the biggest thing for you to work on improving is your facial expressions. Before working with a newer model, I'll send them this mood board:

https://www.pinterest.com/ristudiola/expressions/

of facial expressions I think are good. I think they convey emotion.... tell a story.

If you could get some photos like that in your port that'd be really compelling. The best facial expression I see in your port is this one:
https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/pic/43979146

because I believe it. I feel it's genuine. The others... I feel need work, or are more on the goofy side rather than the fashion side. I think the 2nd best facial expression I could find was here:

https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/pic/883832

I reallly wanted to like these, but for some reason I feel they fall short:
https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/pic/44891798
https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/pic/43967802
https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/pic/2247458

I don't know why. I'm not sure if some models simply have a better bone structure for conveying certain emotions, or if it's something that's learnable. I'm afraid I don't know how to teach it... I just know it when I see it.

Hope some of that was helpful. Throw away anything you dislike. ;-)

Dec 21 18 02:05 am Link

Photographer

Orca Bay Images

Posts: 33877

Arcata, California, US

LONDON Photo Art wrote:
I'm not sure if we're allowed to mention, when critiquing a model's portfolio, if we feel a photo is bad due to the photography?

it's the model's responsibility to make sure to use only portfolio-worthy images. iMO, it would be a service to the model if such a critique specifies that a problem was the photographer's fault. How else is the model to learn?

Dec 22 18 09:12 am Link

Photographer

Camerosity

Posts: 5805

Saint Louis, Missouri, US

It I were judging a photo competition, I would look at each photo as a unique and overall work. When evaluating portfolios or portfolio photos, I try to evaluate the work of each participant as an individual. (For one thing, that helps me find models with more potential, even if their portfolios aren’t stellar.)

You have a good look, and you have shown that you have experience and skills in modeling.

With regard to the majority of your photos, your contribution surpasses the contribution of the photographers. In other words, there is more room for improvement at the photography end than at the modeling end. I’m not saying that you are perfect, but the first thing I would criticize in most cases relates to the photographer.

Translation: The easiest and best way to make the most dramatic improvement in your portfolio is to work with better photographers.

Even when there are flaws in posing, the photographer is the only person who can see what the model, the lighting and the pose look like from the camera position, and it’s his/her job to evaluate things and give direction to correct them.

For example, somewhat deeper shadows are fine for boxing photos, and a dark, moody artistic approach would also be fine. But this photo is in between, and it would be better if the shadows were not quite as deep (the photographer’s responsibility) – and if the boxing glove on your left hand (camera right) didn’t cast a shadow over your mouth. 

https://photos.modelmayhem.com/photos/070113/00/45a86a4f4be78.jpg

There are some models who have an uncanny ability to visualize the lighting and work the lights, but this is a skill that usually comes only after years and years of hard and constant work.

Focusing on your more recent work, this collage includes two generally well-done photos.

https://photos.modelmayhem.com/photos/181006/18/5bb96821562f6.jpg

I’m talking about the second and third photos in the collage. The photo in the upper left would have been better, but still not as good as the others, if the stray hairs and the hot spot on your left (camera right) cheek had been dealt with before the photo was shot or at least in post processing.

The hot spot is the brightest area in the photo and the entire collage. It could have been fixed by applying a little face powder to it or by diffusing or feathering the light more. Whether you’re looking at the left photo or at the college as a whole, that’s where the eye is drawn.

The other two photos (especially the one at the right) are much better, but imo they are cropped in ways that reduce their impact, especially in a collage, where the tight cropping makes the collage seem more “crowded.”

https://photos.modelmayhem.com/photos/180406/16/5ac8006d5109a.jpg

The main thing that bothers me about the above photo is that the skin tones on your face and arms seem too light (and the skin tones on your chest may be a bit dark). The photo would have been better, if they had been equalized, one way or the other.

https://photos.modelmayhem.com/photos/070208/16/45cb9bfa3a978.jpg

The caption on the above image says, “Funny how you hold your head makes a different face shape.”

Let’s talk about that for a minute, because that caption is the key to the easiest and simplest way for you to improve your modeling, as well as one way for your photographers to improve their work as well.

No face is perfectly symmetrical, although maybe 5% of faces are very close. Every face has a masculine side and a feminine side. There are three “measurements” you can make visually to tell which is which.

One is the distance from the tip of the nose to each cheekbone. Next is the distance from the tip of the nose to each jawbone. The third is the relative size of the model’s eyes.

In order to be certain, the model has to be directly facing the camera (or at least me), lit by one light that is above and directly in front of the model’s face when the visual measurements are made. This is the way I begin most first shoots with a model.

Relative size of the eyes is somewhat subjective and can mean the width of the eyeball, the vertical distance from the top of the eye to the bottom, or the size of the lens of each eye. Rarely do these three methods contradict each other.

The size of these three measurements determines which side is which. About 90% of the time, these three measurements do not contradict each other. The side of the face with the smaller “measurements” is the feminine side. That’s the side that should be closer to the camera most of the time.

From your photos, I’m pretty sure that the left side (camera right) of your face is the feminine side. However, since lighting can change things up a little, I’d have to look at your face head-on to be 100% certain.

Things that are closer to the camera look larger. Things that are farther from the camera look smaller. So having the feminine side closer to the lens tends to visually equalize the two sides of the face, minimizing any asymmetry. Doing the opposite exaggerates the asymmetry.

So, when you’re not directly facing the camera, you would want the left side of your face to be closer to the camera – but ONLY if the lighting is set up for you to be facing more to the right. (With about 70% of the models I’ve photographed, the feminine side is the right side of the face.)

Virtually every lighting setup (with the exception of having the main light directly in front of the model’s face when she’s facing the camera) is designed primarily for the model to be facing one way or the other. Generally, if the main light is to the right (your right) of the camera, it’s set up for you to be facing right, with the left side of your face closer to the camera (and vice versa).

There are some exceptions that are designed to be exceptions. Generally, the photographer needs to pay closer attention to the lighting on the face when making an exception.

Also, short lighting makes most models (with the exception of those with very narrow faces) look better – especially if the light is set up for the model to have the feminine side of her face closer to the camera. Short lighting means that the shadows are on the side of the face that’s closer to the camera. Broad lighting means that the shadows are on the side of the face that’s farther from the camera.

Short lighting fits better with certain moods. When the shadow is on the side of the face that’s closer to the camera, that sometimes suggests (depending on the relative brightness of the fill light to the main light) a somewhat darker, more mysterious mood. So short lighting isn’t for everything, but I find myself using it more and more.

Hope this helps…

Jan 21 19 09:25 pm Link