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Talk to me about... OCC Skin
I was going to email David directly, but figured I'd open it up to everyone who uses OCC Skin. I'm looking for pointers for using this product... and also airbrushing in general. Conceptually, in the way I think and how I approach the makeup and model, using the airbrush and these foundations is different for me than the makeup I've been doing. And since my autopilot is not relevant, I find myself getting hung up. So.... I FINALLY got to break out my new airbrush kit yesterday and try out my OCC foundations. It's been quite a while since I airbrushed and I've never used this makeup before and I was finding the mixing and base matching process more difficult that I expected. I love the concept that the colors are totally customizable (and the texture was great) but I was having a difficult time creating a match for the girl I was working on (very olive Indian woman). I couldn't quite get the ratios right and since I was in a time crunch I abandoned the airbrush for my tried and true Face Atelier (she was very close to FA#6 though a perfect match would've been a touch more olive). Which pissed me off, because I'm sure I could've figure it out if I had more time. The other issue I had was figuring out how much product to use... how many drops in the brush and how much coverage on the face. And if I use only a few drops of foundation, but want to tweak it with a pure pigment how do I prevent the pigment from overwhelming the foundation? (I mean ratio wise, what's a good percentage?) Aye carumba... sorry for the book. But any suggestions or explanations of how you use this product is appreciated! Jan 04 08 09:35 am Link Hey Cynthia, Don't feel bad at all! Anytime you have to get used to a new color system, it can be frustrating. Personally, it took me forever to stop thinking in MAC terms ("She's totally an NC42, NW25 will work on him, etc.") when I first branched out into other makeup lines - I felt like I had no idea how to do foundation anymore. It really does just take getting used to. Via the airbrush, you don't have that instant gratification factor of swiping the product down on the skin first, so it's definitely a little more challenging. Remember that our color categories are intentionally very different - the Ys are very yellow-based and the Rs are very red-based. It always frustrated me in the past when the difference between color systems wasn't distinct enough for the simple reason that when you blend too many colors together, you end up with grey. This is the problem when you work with "warm" tones that have too much in the way of "cools" mixed in, cools that lean toward warms, etc. Since as artists we encounter such a vast array of skintones, especially in multi-cultural markets, I thought it was important to keep the range diverse. When you have a range of tones that are so different, you have something for everyone, since extremes in skintone (ie. very yellow or very pink) can be addressed easily, and the more neutral tones can be created by combining the two. You'll probably find that 9 times out of 10, you end up mixing a little bit of both color families - a lot of the Caucasian skintones that I encounter I end up mixing out of R2 and Y4. The ability to customize on the spot like this is one of the major benefits of airbrush makeup, no matter whose product you use. All it really takes is practice to get used to a new system. Ratio wise, I always work 6 drops at a time, but vary it according to the skintone, sometimes it's right down the middle, other times it could be 2 drops of a Y to 4 drops of an R, or vice-versa. With the color bases, it's rare that you need more than 1 drop in that ratio (as in "She just needs a drop more yellow") If you encounter more of an extreme coverage situation, you'll want to still go six drops at a time, and just add another six drops as you go. It's a good idea to do this for the simple reason that you always end up using less product than you think so you waste less this way. If you have any other questions, you know you can always get in touch with me, and since you're in the area, if you want to come by again sometime with a model, I'd be totally happy to set this up with you - I had a blast with you the last time. Good luck! DK Jan 04 08 11:12 am Link David Klasfeld wrote: This is exactly what I was looking for... thank you! I think it didn't help the other day that the girl was a little hard to match regardless, not a very good start for using a new product. I think I'm gonna strap my sister down and subject her to a make-over so I can practice and I don't have to worry about time constraints. If all else fails, you'll definitely be seeing me pop into your place again. Jan 04 08 02:09 pm Link The colors were hard for mw to work with at first, but what really helped was having all of the adjuster and base colors. Now the OCC product is so fine, that a little really does go a long way, but while you are getting used to it and struggling to mix the colors, you might was to overcompensate a bit with the product, so that you don't run out midway through the face (or maybe that's just me). I have had nothing but compliments from my models, actors and actresses who have been airbrushed with the product- and it sets so quickly. What helped me get used to the colors, was to take out the foundations I was used to using and just start visually mixing them together. I would take my aircraft 925 and say... this looks like a little bit of Y3, Y4, R3 and Olive adjuster (just an example, not sure if this is the exact match). I have no problem matching skintones whatsoever, but having something common to compare it to made the transition much more smooth. This is all OCC skin product, and as David has seen the unretouched version, the skin really is that flawless and luminous. Jan 04 08 02:21 pm Link Thank you rachelrose... that's really helpful too, comparing the colors to the ones I know already. Jan 04 08 02:36 pm Link cynthia- im glad you posted this. i just got my airbrush set i ordered from OCC. I am so excited!!! All the questions you asked...and the answers give helped me a lot!! Cant wait to get off work to start using my new system. But as far as cleaning the equipment...once im done using it. Can i clean it out with just water...? Jan 04 08 04:47 pm Link The OCC Skin foundations are waterbased so I cleaned the airbrush with just water and it came clean just fine. Jan 04 08 06:48 pm Link Jan 04 08 07:39 pm Link Sexy Time Make Up wrote: Yup, absolutely. Keep a small bottle of water handy at all times when you're airbrushing, and then spray it through tje airbrush as soon as you can to clean it. Crank the pressure all the way up when cleaning it, too. You'll find it rinses out really easily. Jan 04 08 08:18 pm Link regarding OCC... i planned to do a photoshoot where the models will pose as a mermaid, so it's going to be reaaaaallly wet because they have to be in and out of the water many times, and since i want to color their skin completely, does OCC "that" waterproof? Jan 05 08 12:28 pm Link adrian suryapradipa wrote: Absolutely. It's been used for underwater photoshoots and it doesn't budge. Just to be clear though, the product you want is OCC Ink, the alcohol base, and not OCC Skin which is the waterbase. Jan 05 08 01:05 pm Link This was done with OCC INK - mostly metallics, but skin colors were used for contouring and shadow. Miss Pixie was in the pool for over 1/2 hour. Got out, towled off, and got back in. Pool is a salination type, not chlorine. Jan 05 08 01:21 pm Link Double post gremlin. Jan 05 08 01:21 pm Link wow! thanks david! i'll try to make an online order for the OCC Ink. wish me luck!! ps: awesome work on miss pixie! Jan 06 08 09:45 am Link Did she use sunscreen under the ink, she is so light complected? Wanting to know if it held up with sunscreen on also. Thanks Battledress PaintNBody wrote: Jan 06 08 10:08 am Link Not under the paint. But, we did apply a "dry spray" 50spf sunscreen to her exposed skin (and NOT on the paint) after we were done with the art. The paint was performed under a canopy, so we were well shaded. And, even though it was the middle of summer on a bright day, she did not burn. Jan 06 08 01:32 pm Link |