Alien Bees:

Here’s my dilemma:  I shoot in a studio about 13 x 18.  Use a Nikon D300 at ISO 200.  The sweet spot is between f8 and f11 for modeling work in studio.

I have the following; purchased NEW only 8 months ago from AB:
AB 800 Octobox
AB 800 Rectangular Box
AB 400 Side Fill
AB 400 Site Fill
AB 400 Hair Light.

I don’t use all the lights; it depends on what I’m shooting.  However here it goes.

Sometimes my strobes flash on their own.  (no other cameras with transmitters around)..
The Receiver Adapter is a bit loose (AB sent me their latest/updated adapter…still a little loose).
The Transmitter on the Camera Hot-Shoe does not lock down, so there is a possibility that it can come a little loose when moving the camera around shooting in “Vertical”….also said by Joe from AB Technical Team.

I can’t set my AB sliders past 1/32 or I’ll get Hot Spots or Washout on my models.  I shoot my models (which you should) around 4 to 6 feet from the main light.  I set my Softbox and Octabox at 7:30 o’clock and at 4:30 o’clock.  Usually can only us 1/32…so anyone know what’s up.  You can shoot and should shoot a model at 3 feet and still get good wrap around and no hotspots/washout.

I called Joe (their top technician at AB today  2/6) and he is baffeled by it.  Said MAYBE the slider are stuck…but they are not…because I tested them.  Suggested that I use the SYNC cord from the Main Light to the Camera instead….that still doesn’t tell me what’s going on….but it may solve the problem temporarily.

Does anyone else have this problem with their AB’s.  If so, what’s the solution.

If you don’t have any problem; tell me, can you go to ¼ or ½ on the slider regarding power.  And if so, can you stay at ISO 100 or 200 and f8 or f11.  Please consider studio shooting only; don’t think outdoors.  Sure, I can adjust my ISO and f stops…but that’s not what should always be done…..should be working with the lighting.

A friend shoots with Hensel and sets it to 90-100 percent of power and it’s beautiful at 3 feet or 12 feet.  What’s up with the AB.  On a scale from 1 to 10; I have to rate them a 5 or 6 at the most.

Thanks
Tommy
TMK Images

I have a friend that has the same issue with his AB's and it is usually when using a radio slave

I'm a long-time AB user... I have 3 ab800s and the wired remote... I use pocket wizards to trigger the remote... I used to have the flashing problem but changing the phone (sync) cords fixed the problem, also keeping the blank plugs in the 1/8 sync jack helps cut down on unwanted flashes as well... every time I have had a problem it was the wires or the remotes not the units themselves... Are you setting the power directly on the units or on a remote?

If my lights are as close as you say (5 or 6 ft) and My camera is at iso 100, with a shutter speed that will still sync (1/200, maybe 1/320) I'll usually be stopping down my lens from f11 or f8 to f16.. Why? Too much light, too close. Can I assume there is diffusion between the light and subject?

As far as a "sweet spot" at f8 or f11..okay, if that's what you like.  I prefer backing my lights off, dialing up the power and shooting at f5.6 or even f4..f8 at the high end. I don't usually seek the depth of field you're interested in, though.

I can't say what the issues are with your radio setup. I shoot with a PC cord through a Wein safe sync, and let the slaves fire on the rest of my lights. AB cords are cheap, and I've found they have loose connections.

The basic ratio would be this: If you have your iso at 100 ( or at 200 for another fstop's worth of exposure), your  aperture at f8, shutter speed at a syncable  speed and your light 5 feet away, when you adjust the power on the back it adds light. More light = overexposure, or blown out areas. It's a reciprocal relationship between those 4 things. you can't change one and expect the ratio to remain constant.

FYI I have 3 AB800s, 1 AB 1600 and 1 AB400. NO radio equipment as I don't go to group shoots.

I have them and their remote system. Love um, no problems. My cell phone sets off the strobes when I'm receiving  a call though!

I occasionally get a flash when using my Ebay Chinese radio transmitter....possibly some interference....

Did you  check the AB's with the modeling lights on "tracking" to the power levels.  Does the modeling light dim or get more intense when you adjust the slider?

Edit:....Oops....dummy me, thought you were asking if the sliders "work".  I can shoot at f6.3-8 without any problems....ISO 100, 1/125, and usually don't go much 1/4 power on my AB800's

If you've bought the AB radio triggers, they have an issue.  I believe if you complain, they will send you an email which explains that the Chinese manufacturer didn't do it according to spec, and that causes some spurious triggering.  It drove me crazy and I just wound up buying a set of PWs.  Changing the connectors might help, or maybe moving the receiver to a different AB unit.

I haven't had too much of an issue with the hotspot; I do occasionally throw on an ND filter so I can open my lens up a bit.

I shoot with 2 AB1600s, with a AB400 for hair; 60 inch bounce umbrella or 5ft Octobox.  ISO 100, f/8, 1/250.  1600s probably around half power.

I have 3 ABs and although I don't use the radio x-mitters, I'm a little confused by your question. I don't want to talk down to anyone, but I want to make sure we get a few fundamentals covered here...

1: Are you metering? Does the meter reading change in a reasonable way when you change the power? IE, if you double output from the strobe (go from 1/32 to 1/16) does it roughly increase exposure by a stop? If you want your ISO at 200, your shutter at 250 (or whatever you said -- it doesn't really matter as long as it isn't too long or too short), and then your aperture at f8 then the only thing you can do to get proper exposure is adjust distance from lights and light output. You sound like you expect to be able to set light output to whatever you feel like at whatever distance and get proper results, which can't happen. I have shot with a softbox inches away from the model with an AB1600 without issue. It's not a light issue, it's a metering issue. As long as the slider is adjusting output and with reasonable accuracy and consistency then you're fine.

2: As far as unintended firing, sounds like it might be some issue with the trigger. I have had static discharge them before when I was handling the end of the sync cord and certain fabrics at the same time.

I do find with radio triggers that cell phones will set them off even if in another room.

The bees are not very stable at 1/32 power. I've tested 3 bees and got quite a big variation at the lowest power.

I'd guess that's why they are cheaper. But they are pretty consistant at 1/16. So if you can just stop down or use an ND filter, that'll solve the inconsistency issue.

Random firing of Alien Bees.

Some places have dirty power -- only thing I know how to explain it.

My friend has a set -- they fire randomly at her house and no where else.

My set did that at a certain church.

He house does weird stuff with anything electronic.  (burns out hair dryers for instance)

I have 3 White-Lightnings and 3 Alien Bees. I was have similar problem on the lights randomly firing.

I bought a pair of Pocket Wizards and have not had a single occurence of it again in 10+ shoots.

I've seen random firing when there was a bit of a grounding problem, either due to substandard wiring in the location or simply the power cord not being firmly seated into the unit. I once had a situation when it would fire if you brought your hand within about a foot of the unit - creepy!

I'm not even sure what you're asking with some of the other questions so I'll leave it at that.

I had random firing the other day while working in a low ceiling office complex ... They had a lot of florescent lighting.  I thought maybe the flicker from the lights was triggering the optical slaves on the AB's.  Has anyone heard of this??

My other thought was dirty power.

Edit:  I was using pocket wizards

I have a 1600, 800  and two 400s. 

I agree the bees are very powerful for 4-6 feet away even with an xl softbox.  I wish I'd bought 3 400s.  I'm glad I have the 1600 to overpower the sun when outdoors. 

I also have the loose adapter problem although it's a feeling of quality more than an issue.  It doesn't cause misfires.

The ebay cheapie rf remote would have a bit of a time delay even with a new battery for me.  Sometimes shutter speeds faster than 1/160 would not be well lit (a verticle portion of the frame is dark).  I ordered a higher quality rf remote still 1/3 the pocketwizard price) and expect it will work well on my next shoot.

I have 2x 800s and 2x 1600s, ive only used the pocket wizards and ive never had a misfire. the alien bee triggers arent the greatest. i did however have an issue the other night with the strobes not firing via the optical trigger. i never had the issue in a studio situation unless i was using only snoots. but when i had this problem i had very large softboxes, i was shooting outside at night. spent 20 minutes running around like a chicken with its head cut off getting very frustrated. i think im gona invest in some more sensitive optical triggers. its cheaper than more pocket wizards

With all new things comes some learning, I have had my AB strobes for over 4 years now and have experienced all but the loose connector issue with the transmitter (probably because I have the Radio Remote 1 set, not the radio triggers ). However, I rarely experience any problems these days as I learned how to work my lights and accessories.

I used to have it flash like a strobe occasionally - found it was a loose sync cord issue, easily fixed or on occasion a static electricity problem (still fairly easy to fix )

I had a problem for awhile using my radio remotes, until I learned that for them, I had to have my lights on set on full power, turn them on, then power on the radio remotes; otherwise the lights got confused. Could be something similar with radio triggers.

I shoot at f5.6 at 1/2 power on my main through a large octobox about 3-4 feet from model. My main is an AB400, I got my AB400's about 2 years later then the rest because I got tired of not being able to drop the fill light low enough, since getting the AB400's my shots have improved dramatically as I have a lot more flexability and can keep my strobes at 1/2 and 1/8. The 800's and my 1600 are back lights and spot fill lights and frequently have ND filters over them.

Overall I like the lights, they work well, but I did have to learn the idiosyncrosies of the lights.
Just my experience,

I have one for sale an AB800 with softbox, im happy with the performance but i need a light that can handle what i put me speedatron and norman packs and light through. and its pink.. hahahah not like the black im used to with me other lights. lol

jeptha

I had a problem with one AB800 going off randomly.

There was this one particular shoot when it completely decided that it was time to spaz. It just started going off like it was dying.

I removed the radio receiver and used the built in "eye" and all was good after that.

eMailed AB after that shoot and they said it was the 1/32" adapter.

I was using the chinese transmitters for a while and had the same issue.  It was really bad when an ambulance came by.  We're on a corner with a stop light,  and they send out a radio signal to turn the lights red in all directions and my strobes went crazy

you might just be getting radio interference, if your units have different radio channels   try changing through them. or try some pocket wizards maybe.

love mine i have 4 - ab800 and the ring flash