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Two cameras, simultaneous fire?
I'd like to wire my two 5D's together to expose at the same time, from different angles in the room. One 5D will need to trigger the studio strobes. My first though was to buy two cheap remote triggers and rewire them to be a single button with two cables. I'm a little worried about not screwing up my cameras, but also worried about the second camera syncing properly to the strobes at 1/125s. Anyone have any experience with similar experiments, especially with EOS digital cameras? Feb 12 08 12:44 am Link Hm. Well that's how that Matrix "bullet time" effect is done, only with 100 cameras all firing at once. So someone must have worked it out. Feb 12 08 12:46 am Link Well in my opinion, if the only visible light source is going to be the strobes, then find the lowest shutter speed that will be least 2 stops underexposed for the ambient light. Since as long as you are under the flash sync speed you should be ok. Ideally if it were possible, you could have both cameras set for 1 second or so exposure, then fire the strobes shortly after you fire both of the cameras. IT would only really work if the ambient light is not strong enough to register on the sensor at 1 second with the selected aperture. May I ask the purpose of needing both cameras to take identical exposures but from different angles of the room? Feb 12 08 12:46 am Link digital Artform wrote: Wasn't it fired in sequence but very rapidly after one and the other? (ie: not at the same time, but miliseconds one after the other.) Feb 12 08 12:47 am Link I've never tried it, but I have a feeling you can do this with four PocketWizards. One to Click the shutters, one on each camera and one on your strobe. Use This: http://www.paramountcords.com/pockwiz.asp To connect your camera. KMR Feb 12 08 12:47 am Link Well if you really want to go off the deep end use two Pocket Wizard recievers with the appropriate $200 cables and trigger the cameras remotely with a single PW transmitter. If you don't have any of the stuff it'll set you pack the cost of the PW's + the two cables (I'd guesstimate aroung $600 without doing any real research) , but far less than replacing 2 5D's....... R_L Oops just checked the cables have really come down in price! http://www.amazon.com/Pocket-Wizard-Can … B00009XVMT Feb 12 08 12:47 am Link Karl Blessing wrote: ...yes it was... Feb 12 08 12:49 am Link Karl Blessing wrote: It was done both ways...simultaneously for the halted-time effect and in succession for the slow-motion-move-around effect. Feb 12 08 12:53 am Link It's been done by sports photographers for years. I know a Sports Illustrated shooter who works one camera under the basket (NBA), a remote mounted in the overhead catwalk, while his assistant is on the other end of the court shooting the same play with a 300/2.8. The SI shooter triggers all the cameras via Pocket Wizards linked to his camera. The assistant just points and focuses. If you are using one camera handheld, use a PocketWizard Plus II and plug in into the PC sync outlet on your handheld camera then plug the other into the proper interface on the other camera. You'll need to get the correct camera interface cable for the PW. Have a third PW on the strobe or use a PC cord from the remote camera. Feb 12 08 12:53 am Link http://www.breezesys.com/ Check this out. If they can fire 120 cameras with 5 computers I am sure you can fire 2 cameras with 1 computer. Feb 12 08 12:57 am Link 1) bullet time was done with cameras fired in sequence, not at the same time. They were all hooked up to a computer with special S/W to make the sequence. 2) You can do it by opening up all shutters in a dark room, flash the light, and close the shutters. Thats cheep. 3) if you cant be in a dark room, then the pocket wizards triggering multiple cameras is your best bet. 4) if the cameras are placed at the same ratio of distance as your eyes are then a 3D image is what you get, just like a kids viewmaster toy. 5) their are already speciality cameras that take 2 images on one piece of film for converting into 3D. Their used to be a disposable one for this and you got a image like the 3D ones in the cracker jack boxes that have ridges to defract the light creating the illusion. Feb 12 08 12:59 am Link 16 channel Wireless remote shutter triggers are $22.97 on ebay. I use this. They are great. Just bought another because I would hate to be without mine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi … :IT&ih=013 Buy one for each camera and a spare or two. Set all receivers on the same channel. Set one camera hot shoe to trigger the strobes on the first curtain. Set all cameras to 1/200 second. Toss all the extra transmitters in a drawer. You are loaded for bear. Feb 12 08 01:11 am Link If the 3D look is the goal, they do make prisms that split the image onto both half of the frame. Not as high a quality as the bare lens but, if 3D is the goal can you insure that both the left and right are in identical focus on two separate cameras? Feb 12 08 01:14 am Link C and J Photography wrote: Depending on the wireless trigger that sync speed may be pushing it too close since the delay in the trigger might cause the shutter to hit in the path of the flash. Feb 12 08 01:16 am Link Hansen Tsang wrote: I always wondered if the software was available to do that, but $95/camera. That's steep. Then add the cost of the camera. WOW! Feb 12 08 01:25 am Link Karl Blessing wrote: I shoot at 1/200 all day with 30Ds and get curtain losses in about one of every 50 to 100 images. Feb 12 08 01:26 am Link DVS wrote: good point i vaguely remember that in the dvd extras.. Feb 12 08 01:33 am Link KevinMichaelReed wrote: correct way to do it, and if your strobes have a slave feature, they will fire from the light source of the others. Feb 12 08 01:37 am Link C and J Photography wrote: However the top speed on the 5D is 1/200 thus why I responded to your 1/200th recommendation in that manner. Feb 12 08 01:37 am Link Karl Blessing wrote: Point taken. Feb 12 08 01:40 am Link You could try Remote shooting with the software that came with your camera. It works for one camera, you would have to try it out with 2 or more though. You just need USB cables. Plug in 2 USB cable with the cameras attached. If the Software recognizes 2 cameras at the same time and can trigger them at the same time then you are set with the cheapest solution. Feb 12 08 01:46 am Link What about the wireless remote that will trigger the same model camera at the same time? Feb 12 08 01:46 am Link You can also go the more elaborately precise route, and use PocketWizard MultiMax units. Do some testing as described in the PocketWizard manual to establish each camera's delay, and program that into the PWs. One Transmitter to trigger all the cameras, one transmitter to trigger the flash, and receivers on each camera and flash. (Or on one flash and use optical slaves for the rest.) Feb 12 08 02:46 am Link Karl Blessing wrote: Just some random ideas for experimenting with 3D and multiple perspectives. Feb 12 08 02:06 pm Link Here is a link to how the pro's shoot more than one camera on one pop of light in a basketball game. http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/1709 These guys do it all the time and yes there is some expensive cords to purchase. Just FYI, Phil Feb 12 08 02:11 pm Link Phil Wever wrote: It's good the see someone with real info! Feb 12 08 02:18 pm Link Thanks Joe! Feb 12 08 02:48 pm Link |
