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Building Sets
So i'm a little torn, i love the interiors of older buildings, worn paint, that kind of thing - and i've got access to precisely none. There just aren't many old buildings near me. (Of course i'm a native Scot and always liked clean modern architecture when i lived there, so this could be a grass is always greener pursuit). In any event, i've got a 1000 sq ft basement that i shoot in and that gives me a lot of space to arrange stuff. Has anyone tried making some wall segments on wheels with maybe a window or door in them that they can roll into position and shoot with? Seems like it'd be fairly easy and i see quarts of mismatched paint on sale at home depot for $1/piece and don't think it'd be too hard to mix up how it appeared in images. Am i crazy, or does anyone have any pointers for building something like this? Aug 17 09 08:40 pm Link Talk to theatre people. I have some set build/paint experience from high school productions, but it's hard to explain things over the internet. Aug 17 09 08:44 pm Link KKP Retouching wrote: I've helped frame in various buildings and such and while i'm not terribly experienced, i have no doubt that i can build a wall segment and hang some drywall on it. Aug 17 09 08:48 pm Link Cool idea, Graham, and no doubt you are a more experienced builder than I am (although I have hung drywall). I would suggest you frame a, say, 10 wide by 8 high foot "wall", where the base is on casters so you can roll it in and out (hell, build more than one!). Paint as your vision guides you. Maybe even build one with a window or door. If you space is 1000 sq ft, you should be able to store and move several of these as needed. One challenge I see right off is that with casters you may not want to shoot your model down to the floor, unless you have some kind of a transition material from wall to floor. Cheap carpet? Aug 17 09 09:16 pm Link AlfonseV wrote: Actually i have some remnants of carpet and vinyl that were used in home construction, since i'd need relatively small offcuts i could probably keep a variety on hand cheaply. (my wife will kill me) Aug 17 09 09:38 pm Link grahamsz wrote: I work in the theater... We use 2" ridged foam insulation first painted with "Kilz - original" (to stop the fiberglass from covering everything) than the top coat. It makes a very light and versatile platform which you can easily cut and shape any way that you want to make; rocks/boulders, walls, furniture, ect. You can use skewers to hold it together. Aug 17 09 09:39 pm Link KenMalPhotos wrote: That's a useful idea. Do you think it'd be obvious up close that it wasn't real or would more people be looking at the model? Aug 17 09 10:21 pm Link grahamsz wrote: You can also use 1/4" luan. I would never use drywall for a set. Far to heavy. Aug 17 09 10:23 pm Link AlfonseV wrote: Oooh I have an idea. If you use carpet, build a wedge so at one side the carpet butts up to the bottom of the "wall" and slopes down to the floor. You could technically cover this wedge with all kinds of things to simulate different floorings, and the tilt shouldn't be tooooooo obvious. Aug 17 09 10:28 pm Link Paramour Productions wrote: Thanks - home depot carry that i think Aug 17 09 10:29 pm Link Liz Massingill wrote: You build the casters into the angle braces behind the wall and just let the luan extend a to the floor, past the framing... Aug 17 09 10:30 pm Link Liz Massingill wrote: that's an interesting point. I was thinking i'd maybe velcro the trim piece so i could bridge that gap to the floor Aug 17 09 10:31 pm Link grahamsz wrote: that would definitely be an easier way, but the eye is expecting to see an angle there (walls and floors meet at 90 degrees), and anything else might draw attention away from the focus of the photo. just an opinion, though. Aug 17 09 10:43 pm Link this is actually a very common technique and can be used to great success. Another technique is to do wheeled wall segments that are hinged to a wall and can be folded in or out for multiple sets in a small space (these can be two-sided, multiplying your effective shoot area. Aug 17 09 10:50 pm Link Most of the set walls (flats) I've seen and used are made of 1x3 wood frames, and luan panels covering them. MUCH lighter than one made of 2x4s and 1/4 inch plywood. You can make simple 4x8' flats and paint or wallpaper as you wish. With multiple panels you can join them together at angles, put windows in them, etc. They can also be textured or used to support a piece of 4x8' fake brick (which I swear never to use again). I once rented a wall unit from a movie studio here in LA. It was 10' tall and 5' wide, built on 1x3 with plywood covered with real stucco. We rented it for a beer shoot we were doing and it only cost $150 including delivery. It cost another $75 to have it picked up (it weighed a ton), or we could buy it for another $150, which we did. Used it and painted it many times. The shot of Jaime Bergman in black on the stucco wall in my MM portfolio was done on that wall. Another technique they used to use with seamless to get quick background changes is to build (using 1x3 for frames) large "walls" which were only an 8x8' frame, to which they'd staple one seamless paper color on one side, and another color on another side, and the whole thing was on rollers. Typically they'd be used for something like a celebrity headshot or 3/4 shots, and they'd have three or four of these rigs, with up to 8 different color seamless showing. As the shoot progressed, they'd roll one color in, and another out, then another in, out, flipping the units as needed. It was a super fast way to change background colors, until masking and Photoshop came along, but it could still have its uses. Aug 17 09 10:52 pm Link You really don't need to make the walls that sturdy, they aren't supporting anything. So forget building them "to code". Build them light and forget trying to put them on wheels. For example, 1x2's instead of 2x4's . Foam core instead of drywall... You get the point. Aug 17 09 10:57 pm Link grahamsz wrote: Not crazy, but there isn't much info floating around about this. Everything I've found was based on theatrical set design--which, as noted, emphasizes light weight rather than withstanding long-term abuse, which is the norm for real buildings. Aug 18 09 12:50 am Link grahamsz wrote: It depends on the art work painted... Aug 18 09 03:23 am Link Not sure I would agree about a wall on casters. What do you do about the gap between the floor and wall? I prefer 4x8' and 2x8' set wall sections (1x2" or 1x3" framed luan sheets) that can be clamped together in various configurations. In fact today I'm making a 4x8' grid out of 1x3" to cover with diffusion to simulate a window. Then I will just have more options with the set components. Also don't overlook fabric. This set was made by hanging two different fabrics to simulate a rich paneled wall and curtain. The wall fabric was a double-width (approx 108") was only $15/yard at a close-out fabric store that I have relied on for many backgrounds and sets. Aug 18 09 05:17 am Link Just built one. We made it from 3 interior doors that we glued, screwed and lamelloed (sp?) together. Put on casters with a triangle like section on either end to stabilize. Its light, not going to tip, strong. We are in the process of mudding right now. If I wanted to have it go all the way to the cloor I might use some wide baseboard or something like that. Aug 18 09 07:42 am Link Kevin Connery wrote: Thanks, that's very useful Aug 18 09 03:52 pm Link Dan Howell wrote: Yeah it seems like the super lightweight approach works better. There's a place in town i need to check out that specializes in recycled building materials. I might look there for things like windows and maybe some older wood trim pieces that have character. Aug 18 09 03:55 pm Link Aug 18 09 03:59 pm Link Angel Doyle wrote: That's pretty convincing. He's missing a trim piece behind you, but that's no big deal. Aug 18 09 04:02 pm Link Aug 18 09 04:04 pm Link Gil Lang wrote: Yeah i did wonder about that - feel you usually see a denser grain on actual flooring. I think i've still got most of pack of it from when we did the dining room. Aug 18 09 04:08 pm Link grahamsz wrote: The above is standard procedure on many sets. Those colleagues more involved in TV/movies can correct me, but I think the movable walls are called "flats." Aug 18 09 04:09 pm Link One of the things I've done is buy some cheap 2 by 1/2 inch 8' sticks at Home Depot or Lowes for 89 cents each and built a frame. I buy paper backdrop the color I need and staple it to the frame. Then lay down a wood panel to simulate a hardwood floor or maybe some cheap remnant carpet. Tack in some cheap floor molding after it's painted or stained and I have a cheap set for under $50 depending on paper cost. I made my own window using the same method but I used very thin smooth paneling instead of paper and used plexiglass instead of glass. It is very light so I don't have to worry about wheels. I pick it up, put it where I want, zap in a few screws to hold it all in place and make the magic happen. My walls range in size from 4'x8' to 8'x8' and any seems that show up when butting two walls together side by side or in a corner I photoshop or staple in a strip of the paper at the top and botom to seal it off. Slightly bowing the wall at the seam while stapling the strip in will keep it tight when released. The strip is less noticeable in an image but most of the time a little correction is needed. I hope that this helps someone out on a budget. Aug 18 09 04:41 pm Link grahamsz wrote: Sure. I have a 10 container old soda jerk made in San Francisco in the 40's, a Fainting couch, a jacuzzi brand jacuzzi on wheels with water fall that works, a seine net, several pieces of 16'20' vinyl, matte black and white, a posing table that is actually an outdoor jacuzzi cover that sits on the jacuzzi if I need a table and ring mounts in the ceiling for swings, sein net and a wild collection of lights. And my newest acuiisition is an antique mirror that almost put me in traction hanging that sucker. Aug 18 09 07:09 pm Link Don't waste your time (and money) on 1x3's! Use 3/4" lauan plywood and rip it into ~2 1/2" strips.(3" total with 1/4" facing and brackets) Predrill all screw holes to use drywall screws, or glue and staple. Aug 18 09 07:42 pm Link |