Photographer
Alt Nudes
Posts: 2
Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
Lately I've had a few shoots where I've been asked to emulate direct sunlight. I've used big 6Kw HMI movie lights with fresnel lenses, but they are big, heavy, hot and expensive to rent. Ideally, I would like to buy a light modifier for my Elinchrom studio lights. My question is, which modifier will give me the sharpest, crispest shadows at the best price? Elinchrom offer two zoom spots that seem to be able to focus the light and give me the hard shadows I'm looking for. But I've never used them so I'd like to hear from someone who has experience with them. http://www.elinchrom.com/product/Mini-S … ml#content http://www.elinchrom.com/product/Zoom-S … ml#content Also, if there's a different way of achieving this type of light, I'd love to hear about it. I'm not averse to creative solutions and a little DIY. Thanks!
Photographer
Phil Drinkwater
Posts: 4814
Manchester, England, United Kingdom
As a random idea, you can get this effect with just an off camera speedlight. I know. I did it this weekend Gives a very sharp flash. The flash may only be powerful enough to do it well for headshots though (at least if you want a reasonable recycle speed) and flash consistency is more of an issue and, finally, using batteries is a pain.. Just a thought for you...
Photographer
Al Lock Photography
Posts: 17024
Bangkok, Bangkok, Thailand
Raw head, as far away as possible. The farther the light source is from the subject, and the smaller the light source is, the harder the source will be, creating harder shadows. May mean controlling ambient light in order to get the result you want, and you may have an awful lot of wasted light (also watch out for bounce creating problems).
Retoucher
Michael A Broughton
Posts: 1194
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
keep in mind that sunlight is effectively two light sources: the harsh, warm light directly from the sun and the cool, diffuse light from the rest of the sky. bounce flash or softboxes with a light blue gel to simulate the sky and a flash with a bare tube or small parabolic reflector and a light yellow gel to simulate the sun should work.
Photographer
Jonas Gunn
Posts: 3531
Birmingham, England, United Kingdom
if you've got a big enough space - the eli max spot with the silver inside (29 degree throw) gives huge output and hard shadows.. you'll ideally want it a few metres in the air and a few back.. but it's a lightweight and versatile alternative. cheap too. https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/p … 9#23762709 (18+) that's an example of it in use in a relatively limited space.
Photographer
Fashion Photographer
Posts: 14388
London, England, United Kingdom
Karl Baxter wrote: if you've got a big enough space - the eli max spot with the silver inside (29 degree throw) gives huge output and hard shadows.. you'll ideally want it a few metres in the air and a few back.. but it's a lightweight and versatile alternative. cheap too. https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/p … 9#23762709 (18+) that's an example of it in use in a relatively limited space. Lovely pic, Karl. If you want even sharper shadows, line the reflector with black cinefoil and remove the modelling light. I like the s40 fresnel
Photographer
Monito -- Alan
Posts: 16524
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Al Lock Photography wrote: Raw head, as far away as possible. The farther the light source is from the subject, and the smaller the light source is, the harder the source will be, creating harder shadows. May mean controlling ambient light in order to get the result you want, and you may have an awful lot of wasted light (also watch out for bounce creating problems). +1
Photographer
Creative Concept Studio
Posts: 2704
Fort Worth, Texas, US
This was done with a bare studio strobe, just the silver reflector to direct the light. The edges in this example are not as sharp of the unedited version due to process.
Photographer
Rupert Yen
Posts: 626
Memphis, Tennessee, US
you may want to look at the Armani ad campaign with Megan Fox, At first you think its outside but the shadows on her are too pleasant. There is also a video showing the set and behind the scenes. Now the shadows aren't as sharp as u want but is a nice alternative
Photographer
RSM-images
Posts: 4226
Jacksonville, Florida, US
. Michael A Broughton wrote: a light yellow gel to simulate the sun . Sunlight is *white* -- not yellow. Refer to Sir Isaac Newton's prism experiment. .
Photographer
Jonas Gunn
Posts: 3531
Birmingham, England, United Kingdom
David-Thomas wrote: Lovely pic, Karl. If you want even sharper shadows, line the reflector with black cinefoil and remove the modelling light. I like the s40 fresnel
Thanks FWIW, I very rarely have the model lamp on, this particular example was a little too close, but that was the practicality of the set. I just used the profoto version of my dish on a shoot where I had a touch more room. The shadow lines are very hard indeed.. but then the dish aperture is narrow and it's a deep dish too. I can't post a result unfortunately, as it was a spread for a september issue. I liked the system and modifier so much, I'm going to change over gradually. Can't do it all at once... 7 heads + equivalent modifiers = £YIKES.
Photographer
Dream-foto
Posts: 4483
Chico, California, US
Just mount a magnifying lens in front to the strobe to focus the light into a strong beam. You can use a reading magnifier, watch out for the heat if you use a plastic one, http://cgi.ebay.com/Magnifier-Lens-Full … 336958a229 edit: Never mind the magnifier, the hard box or a small speedlight is the way to go.
Photographer
C R A W F O R D
Posts: 1269
Las Vegas, Nevada, US
profoto hardbox or you can make a DIY replica.
Photographer
Hugo Lopez Photography
Posts: 240
Miami, Florida, US
You are overcomplicating yourself. My profile picture was done with one light, outdoors on a cloudy day...and this image below was taken at around midnight on the 7th floor of a parking lot. Both using just one cheap Interfit 250 strobe.
Photographer
Jonas Gunn
Posts: 3531
Birmingham, England, United Kingdom
C R A W F O R D wrote: profoto hardbox or you can make a DIY replica. The hardbox was the first modifier that made me justify a potential move from eli..
Photographer
Dream-foto
Posts: 4483
Chico, California, US
RSM-images wrote: . . Sunlight is *white* -- not yellow. Refer to Sir Isaac Newton's prism experiment. . If the sunlight comes from a low angle it's amber/yellow, it if comes from a high angle it's white.
Photographer
Sans Cloth
Posts: 166
Salt Lake City, Utah, US
C R A W F O R D wrote: profoto hardbox +1 The Profoto Magnum with tube and grid comes close. Does Elinchrom have anything similar?
Photographer
john_ellis
Posts: 4375
Spokane, Washington, US
Alt Nudes wrote: Lately I've had a few shoots where I've been asked to emulate direct sunlight. I've used big 6Kw HMI movie lights with fresnel lenses, but they are big, heavy, hot and expensive to rent. Ideally, I would like to buy a light modifier for my Elinchrom studio lights. My question is, which modifier will give me the sharpest, crispest shadows at the best price? No modifier at all. See how much $ you're saving? Now as far as color temperature is concerned - you may want to use a gel to warm the light. A modifier like a softbox will produce a larger light source which will produce softer shadows.
Photographer
L A F
Posts: 8524
Davenport, Iowa, US
AlienBee800. All I did was paint the silver reflector black. Pulling the light back will make the shadow sharper.
Retoucher
Michael A Broughton
Posts: 1194
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
RSM-images wrote: .
. Sunlight is *white* -- not yellow. Refer to Sir Isaac Newton's prism experiment. . i don't know what planet you're from, but this one has a yellow dwarf for a sun and an atmosphere that scatters blue light. not that it would matter if the sun actually were white. the point of using blue or yellow gels is to recreate the difference in colour temperature between the sky and the sun.
Photographer
Cuervo79
Posts: 1059
Guatemala, Guatemala, Guatemala
Laura Ann - Fashion wrote: AlienBee800. All I did was paint the silver reflector black. Pulling the light back will make the shadow sharper. Interesting, have you experimented more with this? I've been meaning to try this out but the 7" reflector didn't go any good, what kind of post did you do on the photo besides B&W? it would be helpfull if you could show an unedited version...
Photographer
Alt Nudes
Posts: 2
Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
Thanks for the replies everyone. I know that putting the light at a greater distance will make the shadows sharper. I've tried using bare heads or just the standard reflectors but the shadows are still too soft - that's why I started using the HMI lights. Hugo Lopez: Your profile picture has the light I'm looking for - I can't believe that's not sunlight. You say you used a bare light for that? How far away was it? The other pic you posted is exactly what I'm NOT looking for. It's the soft shadow that I was getting with bare lights or standard reflectors, a dead giveaway that doesn't look anything like sunlight.
Photographer
WMcK
Posts: 5298
Glasgow, Scotland, United Kingdom
RSM-images wrote: .
. Sunlight is *white* -- not yellow. Refer to Sir Isaac Newton's prism experiment. . First define white and define yellow. You can't. It's all relative.
Photographer
john_ellis
Posts: 4375
Spokane, Washington, US
Dream-foto wrote: If the sunlight comes from a low angle it's amber/yellow, it if comes from a high angle it's white. Well, it's not the sun's light that is changing color - it's sky light (bounced light). If the color of the sun's light ever changes - we're probably fairly doomed.
Photographer
Dream-foto
Posts: 4483
Chico, California, US
John_Robert wrote: Well, it's not the sun's light that is changing color - it's sky light (bounced light). If the color of the sun's light ever changes - we're probably fairly doomed. As the sunlight is filtered through the atmosphere, it will change color due to the dust and moisture in the air. At sunrise the sunlight color temp is 2000 to 3000K At Noon the sunlight color temp will be around 5000 - 5400K Of course skylight is much more blueish 7000 - 8000K If you want the light to look like sunlight, you need to add the visual cue of the color that people expect. So at sunrise the sunlight has a much warmer temp than the fill light coming from the sky.
Retoucher
Michael A Broughton
Posts: 1194
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
WMcK wrote: First define white and define yellow. You can't. It's all relative. from wikipedia: "White is not a color, it is the absence of all colors and as colors absorb light, the absence of all colors results in all wavelengths of light being reflected. The perception of which is evoked by light that stimulates all three types of color sensitive cone cells in the human eye in nearly equal amounts and with high brightness compared to the surroundings. A white visual stimulation will be void of hue and grayness." "Yellow is the color evoked by light that stimulates both the L and M (long and medium wavelength) cone cells of the retina about equally, with no significant stimulation of the S (short-wavelength) cone cells. Light with a wavelength of 570–590 nm is yellow, as is light with a suitable mixture of red and green"
Photographer
L A F
Posts: 8524
Davenport, Iowa, US
Cuervo79 wrote: Interesting, have you experimented more with this? I've been meaning to try this out but the 7" reflector didn't go any good, what kind of post did you do on the photo besides B&W? it would be helpfull if you could show an unedited version... Let me see if I can find the unedited version, but I don't believe I did too much with it. Lemme see if I have the photo on the external I currently have hooked up... EDIT: Not the same shoot, but the same lighting set up. Unretouched.
Photographer
Fred Greissing
Posts: 6427
Los Angeles, California, US
Alt Nudes wrote: Lately I've had a few shoots where I've been asked to emulate direct sunlight. I've used big 6Kw HMI movie lights with fresnel lenses, but they are big, heavy, hot and expensive to rent. Ideally, I would like to buy a light modifier for my Elinchrom studio lights. My question is, which modifier will give me the sharpest, crispest shadows at the best price? Elinchrom offer two zoom spots that seem to be able to focus the light and give me the hard shadows I'm looking for. But I've never used them so I'd like to hear from someone who has experience with them. http://www.elinchrom.com/product/Mini-S … ml#content http://www.elinchrom.com/product/Zoom-S … ml#content Also, if there's a different way of achieving this type of light, I'd love to hear about it. I'm not averse to creative solutions and a little DIY. Thanks! The Elinchrom Zoomspot produces a very nice shap clean shadow and resembles direct sunlight very well. It is actually a Selecon Acclaim with an elinchrom bayonet on the back. You can get them quite cheap from theatrical lighting supply stores. You can even get it wihtout the hot lamp section if you are lucky. Then you use a fotoflex old style speed ring and screw it on the back. Anyway the Zoomspot or a Leko light will produce a better effect than a bare flash head. Beare flash heads produce a double shadow as does the ProPhoto hard light. I shot this with the Selecon Acclaim modified for flash. You can see how clean the shadow is by the detailed shadow cast by the hair.
Photographer
Fred Greissing
Posts: 6427
Los Angeles, California, US
Karl Baxter wrote: if you've got a big enough space - the eli max spot with the silver inside (29 degree throw) gives huge output and hard shadows.. you'll ideally want it a few metres in the air and a few back.. but it's a lightweight and versatile alternative. cheap too. https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/p … 9#23762709 (18+) that's an example of it in use in a relatively limited space. I find that direct heads with reflectors produce a double shadow rather than a clean edge. The sun produces a clean edge. The difference is very evident in the fine shadows cast by hair, eyelashes etc.
Photographer
john_ellis
Posts: 4375
Spokane, Washington, US
I think everyone should read the book, "Light: Science and Magic" to understand sun light and sky light and how it affects Kelvin readings (among other really good stuff). Fred Greissing wrote: I find that direct heads with reflectors produce a double shadow rather than a clean edge. The sun produces a clean edge. The difference is very evident in the fine shadows cast by hair, eyelashes etc. If you move the light further from the subject, you will create a smaller light source which should make those double shadows far less noticeable. Or really, what about just lining the reflector with cinefoil? (assuming you are keeping the reflector on for spill)
Michael A Broughton wrote: "White is not a color, it is the absence of all colors ." It depends. If you are "making" white (like paint), then yeah, it's the absence. If you are talking imaging, then the opposite is true. You see white because the object is reflecting ALL of the colors. When you see black, that object is absorbing the light waves (which is why black objects get hot). It gets pretty confusing.
Photographer
Al Lock Photography
Posts: 17024
Bangkok, Bangkok, Thailand
Michael A Broughton wrote: "White is not a color, it is the absence of all colors ." That maybe appropriate if we are talking about painting. For photography, black is the absence of all colors, white is the presence of all colors (full wavelength).
Photographer
john_ellis
Posts: 4375
Spokane, Washington, US
Al Lock Photography wrote: That maybe appropriate if we are talking about painting. For photography, black is the absence of all colors, white is the presence of all colors (full wavelength). Bingo. It's tough explaining light waves/reflected light because many people think in terms of color wheels (like paints). There was a forum I used to participate in on another site and I'd constantly have people tell me I was full of shit when explaining you see blue because that object absorbs the blue light waves. I get that it may not make sense at first - but then again, that's why I suggest reading books as a wiki entry likely won't help people grasp the full concepts and principles. EDIT: UGH, this is why I hate posting while frustrated. I mistakenly wrote that blue objects absorb the blue light waves - the opposite is true - they reflect the blue and absorb the rest. Not that it's an excuse but the example of black was being combined into my blue explanation for some reason. I are retarded at times.
Photographer
NothingIsRealButTheGirl
Posts: 35726
Los Angeles, California, US
John_Robert wrote: There was a forum I used to participate in on another site and I'd constantly have people tell me I was full of shit when explaining you see blue because that object absorbs the blue light waves. I get that it may not make sense at first - but then again, that's why I suggest reading books as a wiki entry likely won't help people grasp the full concepts and principles. You see blue because it REFLECTS waves that stimulate the sensation of blue in your brain.
Photographer
john_ellis
Posts: 4375
Spokane, Washington, US
NothingIsRealButTheGirl wrote: You see blue because it REFLECTS waves that stimulate the sensation of blue in your brain. Nah, it's from watching the Smurfs as a kid. Everyone knows that!
Photographer
NothingIsRealButTheGirl
Posts: 35726
Los Angeles, California, US
Al Lock Photography wrote: That maybe appropriate if we are talking about painting. For photography, black is the absence of all colors, white is the presence of all colors (full wavelength). In photography the main difference between objects we call black and objects we call white is exposure. You can make a white wall black and a black wall white.
Photographer
john_ellis
Posts: 4375
Spokane, Washington, US
NothingIsRealButTheGirl wrote: In photography the main difference between objects we call black and objects we call white is exposure. You can make a white wall black and a black wall white. Uh, wait...I assumed you were joking with your earlier post. Please don't confuse the thread more than it already has been. I don't mean to sound like a dick by saying that, but you are way off. You are confusing exposure with light waves and they are not one and the same.
Photographer
Monito -- Alan
Posts: 16524
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
A blue shirt reflects blue light so that the blue sensels can receive it and thus put high values into the digital file for that location and so that the blue liquid crystals will light up on the monitor. A blue filter transmits blue light so that the blue sensels [....] A blue shirt absorbs red and green light so that the red and green sensels receive no light and thus put close to zero values into the digital file for that location and [....]
Photographer
john_ellis
Posts: 4375
Spokane, Washington, US
Al, wanna chime in and take over? This is quickly turning into the very reason I hate explaining light and color.
Photographer
NothingIsRealButTheGirl
Posts: 35726
Los Angeles, California, US
John_Robert wrote: I don't mean to sound like a dick by saying that, but you are way off. There actually is no such thing blue light. There is light of a certain wavelength. The sensation of color, which is a result of the wavelength(s) of light, occurs in the brain. And more than one wavelength recipe combo can stimulate the sensation of the same color in the brain. Those different recipes that look the same are called matamers.
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