Forums > Photography Talk > Super sharp shadows to emulate direct sunlight?

Photographer

Alt Nudes

Posts: 2

Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

Lately I've had a few shoots where I've been asked to emulate direct sunlight. I've used big 6Kw HMI movie lights with fresnel lenses, but they are big, heavy, hot and expensive to rent. Ideally, I would like to buy a light modifier for my Elinchrom studio lights. My question is, which modifier will give me the sharpest, crispest shadows at the best price?

Elinchrom offer two zoom spots that seem to be able to focus the light and give me the hard shadows I'm looking for. But I've never used them so I'd like to hear from someone who has experience with them.

http://www.elinchrom.com/product/Mini-S … ml#content

http://www.elinchrom.com/product/Zoom-S … ml#content

Also, if there's a different way of achieving this type of light, I'd love to hear about it. I'm not averse to creative solutions and a little DIY.

Thanks!

Jul 18 11 02:04 am Link

Photographer

Phil Drinkwater

Posts: 4814

Manchester, England, United Kingdom

As a random idea, you can get this effect with just an off camera speedlight. I know. I did it this weekend smile Gives a very sharp flash.

The flash may only be powerful enough to do it well for headshots though (at least if you want a reasonable recycle speed) and flash consistency is more of an issue and, finally, using batteries is a pain..

Just a thought for you...

Jul 18 11 02:36 am Link

Photographer

Al Lock Photography

Posts: 17024

Bangkok, Bangkok, Thailand

Raw head, as far away as possible. The farther the light source is from the subject, and the smaller the light source is, the harder the source will be, creating harder shadows. May mean controlling ambient light in order to get the result you want, and you may have an awful lot of wasted light (also watch out for bounce creating problems).

Jul 18 11 02:49 am Link

Retoucher

Michael A Broughton

Posts: 1194

Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada

keep in mind that sunlight is effectively two light sources: the harsh, warm light directly from the sun and the cool, diffuse light from the rest of the sky. bounce flash or softboxes with a light blue gel to simulate the sky and a flash with a bare tube or small parabolic reflector and a light yellow gel to simulate the sun should work.

Jul 18 11 03:04 am Link

Photographer

Jonas Gunn

Posts: 3531

Birmingham, England, United Kingdom

if you've got a big enough space - the eli max spot with the silver inside (29 degree throw) gives huge output and hard shadows.. you'll ideally want it a few metres in the air and a few back.. but it's a lightweight and versatile alternative.

cheap too.

https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/p … 9#23762709 (18+)

that's an example of it in use in a relatively limited space.

Jul 18 11 04:16 am Link

Photographer

Fashion Photographer

Posts: 14388

London, England, United Kingdom

Karl Baxter wrote:
if you've got a big enough space - the eli max spot with the silver inside (29 degree throw) gives huge output and hard shadows.. you'll ideally want it a few metres in the air and a few back.. but it's a lightweight and versatile alternative.

cheap too.

https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/p … 9#23762709 (18+)

that's an example of it in use in a relatively limited space.

Lovely pic, Karl. If you want even sharper shadows, line the reflector with black cinefoil and remove the modelling light.


I like the s40 fresnel smile

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images345x345/141180.jpg

Jul 18 11 06:28 am Link

Photographer

Monito -- Alan

Posts: 16524

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Al Lock Photography wrote:
Raw head, as far away as possible. The farther the light source is from the subject, and the smaller the light source is, the harder the source will be, creating harder shadows. May mean controlling ambient light in order to get the result you want, and you may have an awful lot of wasted light (also watch out for bounce creating problems).

+1

Jul 18 11 06:55 am Link

Photographer

Creative Concept Studio

Posts: 2704

Fort Worth, Texas, US

https://photos.modelmayhem.com/photos/110712/05/4e1c3ec5695d0.jpg

This was done with a bare studio strobe, just the silver reflector to direct the light. The edges in this example are not as sharp of the unedited version due to process.

Jul 18 11 07:00 am Link

Photographer

Rupert Yen

Posts: 626

Memphis, Tennessee, US

you may want to look at the Armani ad campaign with Megan Fox, At first you think its outside but the shadows on her are too pleasant.  There is also a video showing the set and behind the scenes.  Now the shadows aren't as sharp as u want but is a nice alternative

Jul 18 11 07:06 am Link

Photographer

RSM-images

Posts: 4226

Jacksonville, Florida, US

.

Michael A Broughton wrote:
a light yellow gel to simulate the sun

.


Sunlight is *white* -- not yellow.

Refer to Sir Isaac Newton's prism experiment.

neutral

.

Jul 18 11 07:07 am Link

Photographer

Jonas Gunn

Posts: 3531

Birmingham, England, United Kingdom

David-Thomas wrote:

Lovely pic, Karl. If you want even sharper shadows, line the reflector with black cinefoil and remove the modelling light.


I like the s40 fresnel smile

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images345x345/141180.jpg

Thanks smile

FWIW, I very rarely have the model lamp on, this particular example was a little too close, but that was the practicality of the set.

I just used the profoto version of my dish on a shoot where I had a touch more room. The shadow lines are very hard indeed.. but then the dish aperture is narrow and it's a deep dish too. I can't post a result unfortunately, as it was a spread for a september issue.

I liked the system and modifier so much, I'm going to change over gradually. Can't do it all at once... 7 heads + equivalent modifiers = £YIKES.

Jul 18 11 07:17 am Link

Photographer

Dream-foto

Posts: 4483

Chico, California, US

Just mount a magnifying lens in front to the strobe to focus the light into a strong beam.

You can use a reading magnifier, watch out for the heat if you use a plastic one,


http://cgi.ebay.com/Magnifier-Lens-Full … 336958a229

edit: Never mind the magnifier, the hard box or a small speedlight is the way to go.

Jul 18 11 07:21 am Link

Photographer

C R A W F O R D

Posts: 1269

Las Vegas, Nevada, US

profoto hardbox

or you can make a DIY replica.

Jul 18 11 07:42 am Link

Photographer

Hugo Lopez Photography

Posts: 240

Miami, Florida, US

You are overcomplicating yourself. My profile picture was done with one light, outdoors on a cloudy day...and this image below was taken at around midnight on the 7th floor of a parking lot. Both using just one cheap Interfit 250 strobe.

https://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/60907_157355810958761_129835423710800_384129_8353900_n.jpg

Jul 18 11 07:43 am Link

Photographer

Jonas Gunn

Posts: 3531

Birmingham, England, United Kingdom

C R A W F O R D wrote:
profoto hardbox

or you can make a DIY replica.

The hardbox was the first modifier that made me justify a potential move from eli..

Jul 18 11 07:45 am Link

Photographer

Dream-foto

Posts: 4483

Chico, California, US

RSM-images wrote:
.


.


Sunlight is *white* -- not yellow.

Refer to Sir Isaac Newton's prism experiment.

neutral

.

If the sunlight comes from a low angle  it's amber/yellow, it if comes from a high angle  it's white.

Jul 18 11 10:42 am Link

Photographer

Sans Cloth

Posts: 166

Salt Lake City, Utah, US

C R A W F O R D wrote:
profoto hardbox

+1

The Profoto Magnum with tube and grid comes close.  Does Elinchrom have anything similar?

Jul 18 11 10:56 am Link

Photographer

john_ellis

Posts: 4375

Spokane, Washington, US

Alt Nudes wrote:
Lately I've had a few shoots where I've been asked to emulate direct sunlight. I've used big 6Kw HMI movie lights with fresnel lenses, but they are big, heavy, hot and expensive to rent. Ideally, I would like to buy a light modifier for my Elinchrom studio lights. My question is, which modifier will give me the sharpest, crispest shadows at the best price?

No modifier at all.  See how much $ you're saving? big_smile

Now as far as color temperature is concerned - you may want to use a gel to warm the light.

A modifier like a softbox will produce a larger light source which will produce softer shadows.

Jul 18 11 11:01 am Link

Photographer

L A F

Posts: 8524

Davenport, Iowa, US

https://photos.modelmayhem.com/photos/101229/22/4d1c2d24ba98c_m.jpg

AlienBee800.  All I did was paint the silver reflector black.

Pulling the light back will make the shadow sharper.

Jul 18 11 11:04 am Link

Retoucher

Michael A Broughton

Posts: 1194

Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada

RSM-images wrote:
.


.


Sunlight is *white* -- not yellow.

Refer to Sir Isaac Newton's prism experiment.

neutral

.

i don't know what planet you're from, but this one has a yellow dwarf for a sun and an atmosphere that scatters blue light. not that it would matter if the sun actually were white. the point of using blue or yellow gels is to recreate the difference in colour temperature between the sky and the sun.

https://www3.kis.uni-freiburg.de/~hw/fraunhoferspektrum.jpg

Jul 18 11 11:26 am Link

Photographer

Cuervo79

Posts: 1059

Guatemala, Guatemala, Guatemala

Laura Ann - Fashion wrote:
https://photos.modelmayhem.com/photos/101229/22/4d1c2d24ba98c_m.jpg

AlienBee800.  All I did was paint the silver reflector black.

Pulling the light back will make the shadow sharper.

Interesting, have you experimented more with this? I've been meaning to try this out but the 7" reflector didn't go any good, what kind of  post did you do on the photo besides B&W? it would be helpfull if you could show an unedited version...

Jul 18 11 01:36 pm Link

Photographer

Alt Nudes

Posts: 2

Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

Thanks for the replies everyone. I know that putting the light at a greater distance will make the shadows sharper. I've tried using bare heads or just the standard reflectors but the shadows are still too soft - that's why I started using the HMI lights.

Hugo Lopez: Your profile picture has the light I'm looking for - I can't believe that's not sunlight. You say you used a bare light for that? How far away was it?

The other pic you posted is exactly what I'm NOT looking for. It's the soft shadow that I was getting with bare lights or standard reflectors, a dead giveaway that doesn't look anything like sunlight.

Jul 19 11 10:18 am Link

Photographer

WMcK

Posts: 5298

Glasgow, Scotland, United Kingdom

RSM-images wrote:
.


.


Sunlight is *white* -- not yellow.

Refer to Sir Isaac Newton's prism experiment.

neutral

.

First define white and define yellow. You can't. It's all relative.

Jul 19 11 11:27 am Link

Photographer

john_ellis

Posts: 4375

Spokane, Washington, US

Dream-foto wrote:
If the sunlight comes from a low angle  it's amber/yellow, it if comes from a high angle  it's white.

Well, it's not the sun's light that is changing color - it's sky light (bounced light).

If the color of the sun's light ever changes - we're probably fairly doomed. big_smile

Jul 19 11 12:29 pm Link

Photographer

Dream-foto

Posts: 4483

Chico, California, US

John_Robert wrote:

Well, it's not the sun's light that is changing color - it's sky light (bounced light).

If the color of the sun's light ever changes - we're probably fairly doomed. big_smile

As the sunlight is filtered through the atmosphere, it will change color due to the dust and moisture in the air. 

At sunrise the sunlight color temp is 2000 to 3000K
At Noon the sunlight color temp will be around 5000 - 5400K

Of course skylight is much more blueish 7000 - 8000K

If you want the light to look like sunlight, you need to add the visual cue of the color that people expect. So at sunrise the sunlight has a much warmer temp than the fill light coming from the sky.

Jul 19 11 01:00 pm Link

Retoucher

Michael A Broughton

Posts: 1194

Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada

WMcK wrote:

First define white and define yellow. You can't. It's all relative.

from wikipedia:

"White is not a color, it is the absence of all colors and as colors absorb light, the absence of all colors results in all wavelengths of light being reflected. The perception of which is evoked by light that stimulates all three types of color sensitive cone cells in the human eye in nearly equal amounts and with high brightness compared to the surroundings. A white visual stimulation will be void of hue and grayness."

"Yellow is the color evoked by light that stimulates both the L and M (long and medium wavelength) cone cells of the retina about equally, with no significant stimulation of the S (short-wavelength) cone cells. Light with a wavelength of 570–590 nm is yellow, as is light with a suitable mixture of red and green"

Jul 19 11 05:14 pm Link

Photographer

L A F

Posts: 8524

Davenport, Iowa, US

Cuervo79 wrote:
Interesting, have you experimented more with this? I've been meaning to try this out but the 7" reflector didn't go any good, what kind of  post did you do on the photo besides B&W? it would be helpfull if you could show an unedited version...

Let me see if I can find the unedited version, but I don't believe I did too much with it.  Lemme see if I have the photo on the external I currently have hooked up...

EDIT:

Not the same shoot, but the same lighting set up.  Unretouched.

https://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/ChicagoNix/AprilRAW.jpg

Jul 19 11 06:12 pm Link

Photographer

Fred Greissing

Posts: 6427

Los Angeles, California, US

Alt Nudes wrote:
Lately I've had a few shoots where I've been asked to emulate direct sunlight. I've used big 6Kw HMI movie lights with fresnel lenses, but they are big, heavy, hot and expensive to rent. Ideally, I would like to buy a light modifier for my Elinchrom studio lights. My question is, which modifier will give me the sharpest, crispest shadows at the best price?

Elinchrom offer two zoom spots that seem to be able to focus the light and give me the hard shadows I'm looking for. But I've never used them so I'd like to hear from someone who has experience with them.

http://www.elinchrom.com/product/Mini-S … ml#content

http://www.elinchrom.com/product/Zoom-S … ml#content

Also, if there's a different way of achieving this type of light, I'd love to hear about it. I'm not averse to creative solutions and a little DIY.

Thanks!

The Elinchrom Zoomspot produces a very nice shap clean shadow and resembles direct sunlight very well.

It is actually a Selecon Acclaim with an elinchrom bayonet on the back.
You can get them quite cheap from theatrical lighting supply stores. You can even get it wihtout the hot lamp section if you are lucky. Then you use a fotoflex old style speed ring and screw it on the back.

Anyway the Zoomspot or a Leko light will produce a better effect than a bare flash head. Beare flash heads produce a double shadow as does the ProPhoto hard light.

I shot this with the Selecon Acclaim modified for flash.
You can see how clean the shadow is by the detailed shadow cast by the hair.

https://photos.modelmayhem.com/photos/100916/14/4c9287288bf79.jpg

Jul 19 11 06:37 pm Link

Photographer

Fred Greissing

Posts: 6427

Los Angeles, California, US

Karl Baxter wrote:
if you've got a big enough space - the eli max spot with the silver inside (29 degree throw) gives huge output and hard shadows.. you'll ideally want it a few metres in the air and a few back.. but it's a lightweight and versatile alternative.

cheap too.

https://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/p … 9#23762709 (18+)

that's an example of it in use in a relatively limited space.

I find that direct heads with reflectors produce a double shadow rather than a clean edge. The sun produces a clean edge. The difference is very evident in the fine shadows cast by hair, eyelashes etc.

Jul 19 11 06:41 pm Link

Photographer

john_ellis

Posts: 4375

Spokane, Washington, US

I think everyone should read the book, "Light: Science and Magic" to understand sun light and sky light and how it affects Kelvin readings (among other really good stuff).

Fred Greissing wrote:
I find that direct heads with reflectors produce a double shadow rather than a clean edge. The sun produces a clean edge. The difference is very evident in the fine shadows cast by hair, eyelashes etc.

If you move the light further from the subject, you will create a smaller light source which should make those double shadows far less noticeable.  Or really, what about just lining the reflector with cinefoil? (assuming you are keeping the reflector on for spill)

Michael A Broughton wrote:
"White is not a color, it is the absence of all colors ."

It depends.  If you are "making" white (like paint), then yeah, it's the absence.  If you are talking imaging, then the opposite is true.  You see white because the object is reflecting ALL of the colors.  When you see black, that object is absorbing the light waves (which is why black objects get hot).  It gets pretty confusing. big_smile

Jul 19 11 08:31 pm Link

Photographer

Al Lock Photography

Posts: 17024

Bangkok, Bangkok, Thailand

Michael A Broughton wrote:
"White is not a color, it is the absence of all colors ."

That maybe appropriate if we are talking about painting. For photography, black is the absence of all colors, white is the presence of all colors (full wavelength).

Jul 19 11 08:40 pm Link

Photographer

john_ellis

Posts: 4375

Spokane, Washington, US

Al Lock Photography wrote:
That maybe appropriate if we are talking about painting. For photography, black is the absence of all colors, white is the presence of all colors (full wavelength).

Bingo.  It's tough explaining light waves/reflected light because many people think in terms of color wheels (like paints).

There was a forum I used to participate in on another site and I'd constantly have people tell me I was full of shit when explaining you see blue because that object absorbs the blue light waves.  I get that it may not make sense at first - but then again, that's why I suggest reading books as a wiki entry likely won't help people grasp the full concepts and principles.

EDIT: UGH, this is why I hate posting while frustrated.  I mistakenly wrote that blue objects absorb the blue light waves - the opposite is true - they reflect the blue and absorb the rest.  Not that it's an excuse but the example of black was being combined into my blue explanation for some reason.  I are retarded at times.

Jul 19 11 08:58 pm Link

Photographer

NothingIsRealButTheGirl

Posts: 35726

Los Angeles, California, US

John_Robert wrote:
There was a forum I used to participate in on another site and I'd constantly have people tell me I was full of shit when explaining you see blue because that object absorbs the blue light waves.  I get that it may not make sense at first - but then again, that's why I suggest reading books as a wiki entry likely won't help people grasp the full concepts and principles.

You see blue because it REFLECTS waves that stimulate the sensation of blue in your brain.

Jul 19 11 09:06 pm Link

Photographer

john_ellis

Posts: 4375

Spokane, Washington, US

NothingIsRealButTheGirl wrote:

You see blue because it REFLECTS waves that stimulate the sensation of blue in your brain.

Nah, it's from watching the Smurfs as a kid.  Everyone knows that!

Jul 19 11 09:07 pm Link

Photographer

NothingIsRealButTheGirl

Posts: 35726

Los Angeles, California, US

Al Lock Photography wrote:
That maybe appropriate if we are talking about painting. For photography, black is the absence of all colors, white is the presence of all colors (full wavelength).

In photography the main difference between objects we call black and objects we call white is exposure. You can make a white wall black and a black wall white.

Jul 19 11 09:08 pm Link

Photographer

john_ellis

Posts: 4375

Spokane, Washington, US

NothingIsRealButTheGirl wrote:

In photography the main difference between objects we call black and objects we call white is exposure. You can make a white wall black and a black wall white.

Uh, wait...I assumed you were joking with your earlier post.  neutral

Please don't confuse the thread more than it already has been.  I don't mean to sound like a dick by saying that, but you are way off.  You are confusing exposure with light waves and they are not one and the same.

Jul 19 11 09:11 pm Link

Photographer

Monito -- Alan

Posts: 16524

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

A blue shirt reflects blue light so that the blue sensels can receive it and thus put high values
into the digital file for that location and so that the blue liquid crystals will light up on the monitor.

A blue filter transmits blue light so that the blue sensels [....]

A blue shirt absorbs red and green light so that the red and green sensels receive no light and
thus put close to zero values into the digital file for that location  and [....]

Jul 19 11 09:11 pm Link

Photographer

john_ellis

Posts: 4375

Spokane, Washington, US

Al, wanna chime in and take over?  This is quickly turning into the very reason I hate explaining light and color.

Jul 19 11 09:14 pm Link

Photographer

NothingIsRealButTheGirl

Posts: 35726

Los Angeles, California, US

John_Robert wrote:
I don't mean to sound like a dick by saying that, but you are way off.

There actually is no such thing blue light. There is light of a certain wavelength. The sensation of color, which is a result of the wavelength(s) of light, occurs in the brain.

And more than one wavelength recipe combo can stimulate the sensation of the same color in the brain. Those different recipes that look the same are called matamers.

Jul 19 11 09:14 pm Link

Photographer

NothingIsRealButTheGirl

Posts: 35726

Los Angeles, California, US

John_Robert wrote:
Al, wanna chime in and take over?  This is quickly turning into the very reason I hate explaining light and color.

I'm going to start a thread on the topic. You are welcome to join it.

smile

------------

here it is

https://www.modelmayhem.com/po.php?thread_id=771840

Jul 19 11 09:15 pm Link