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Let's Talk About Carving
Ronald Nyein Zaw Tan wrote: Thank you Ronald! That's super helpful. Dec 29 11 12:14 pm Link Here is one more...the handsome Grazian. Thanks, buddy for allowing me to carve your portrait. Carving Layer: Alternative Crop: [I introduced additional yellows to the highlights]. Dec 30 11 02:33 pm Link learned a lot from the this thread, specially M P Retouch posts on page 1... ^_^ Jan 03 12 03:54 am Link Carving. I suppose I'm an experienced retoucher, but must be living in my grotte for too long. I never heard the term carving other than the mess I make when hacking a poultry , and everyone asks me , "you call that carving?" It's all just DB, years before MM existed I was doing this with curves layers in mixed L modes. Not sure exactly when the bone heads at Adobe came out with opacity and flow but I think around V7. Using the pen was easier before , you didn't need to be constantly adjusting the keypad shortcuts to get to where you were going. It has become a reflex, but isn't at all the way it should be. While many of you try to precisely paint the layer, I just hack with varying opacity and flow most often at 50/50 , 30/30, or 70/70. Then I mask the layer and paint on it to redo or revert the splendor of all the wow and pow, that made the picture too 'Shopped to be real. I think there is a saturation problem if you go too far in DB , carving if you like, that you should pay attention to. For Greenberg pictures it's passable, for others it becomes vulgar quickly. So that said, I can see reason why 100% / 2 % flow without masking would ensure a decent touch. My way is a sure way to look back in time and say "what the heck was I thinking"? Jan 03 12 04:12 am Link Bonjour Monsieur Snape, Hiya Neal. I agree with you, "carving" is under the umbrella category of "dodging and burning," but more specifically, you are contouring and remapping and enhancing light. I just think "carving" sounds more refined and sophisticated. I was introduced to the term from the RetouchPro forum. An alternative for carving could be "painting with light or PWL" for short. Thanks for contributing your tips, Neil. Happy 2012! Neil Snape wrote: Jan 03 12 10:48 am Link Just wanted to put in a word or two from the painters... Sometimes the color you need is not simply a lighter or darker version of the color you have, but a somewhat different hue or saturation. For this reasons digital painters are routinely discouraged from using dodge and burn as a means of painting. Don't dodge and burn your highlights and shadows. inexperienced and unskilled at just about everything ... all I know is dodge/burn. Something to throw into the mix... Jan 03 12 11:27 am Link Something else to look at-- While Steven Stahlberg doesn't use a gray layer to modify existing color, he DOES sometimes use a color layer to modify existing grayscale. And to good effect: http://www.androidblues.com/JealousySte … ystep.html So you CAN use blend modes to 'dodge and burn' paintings or photos (obviously) but it takes extra thought as to the colors being produced. Here I'm refining the colorization further - note the different hues on the sheet and skin, the blue shadows, the reddish shadow-edges etc... it's exaggerated at this stage so that (hopefully) some of it will survive into the final image. When you've taken this as far as it can go, start using brushes in 'Normal' mode. (Again I use round hard edged brushes, with pressure sensitive opacity mostly, occasionally Airbrush or texture brushes.) You'll know when it's reached that stage, you can feel it - the point of sharply diminishing return. It gets harder and harder to see what you're doing with these modes, since they're very transparent and subtle. For the next level of subtlety it's best to use straight Normal mode. But if the preceding stage of colorization has gotten you close enough, you won't need to cover all of the image with 100% opacity, you can focus on some areas, which makes it easier. Now is also the time when I enlarge the image to it's final resolution, to get all the detailing done with the opaque paint. http://www.3dtotal.com/index_tutorial_d … 819&page=2 And I guess you can't really just brush in new color without sacrificing skin pore detail. Jan 03 12 11:34 am Link Awesome thread thanks all.... Jan 03 12 11:59 am Link Ronald Nyein Zaw Tan wrote: I just call it D&B and as Neil says, it has been done for many many years. Even make-up artists use this when applying shadows and highlights. This is part of the reason why all those actors in Hollywood look so ripped. Apply some shadowy make up in the right places and you look twice as buff Jan 03 12 01:03 pm Link Mike is awesome. MP = Michael Pearson. REMEMBER his name. :-) Lanenga wrote: Jan 03 12 01:20 pm Link MP Retouch wrote: i wouldn't claim to be an advanced retoucher, but my guess is that the more talented a retoucher is at painting human anatomy, the easier this kind of retouching is going to be for him... because you're essentially painting a face in grayscale. Jan 03 12 01:25 pm Link Ronald's Carving Layer: Jan 03 12 01:26 pm Link dave phoenix wrote: It's true that if you know your anatomy and you are a good painter this retouching might get a bit easier, but it's nothing like painting a face in grayscale. The face is already there. You'd just be enhancing some features. Jan 03 12 04:12 pm Link I also believe that one can d&b quite well to some degree without even brushing at all Jan 03 12 07:49 pm Link Great input so far, really helpful, im currently practicing carving on an image, i think i have spotted the problem areas, but have some problem getting the right shoulder natural flow fixed , apart from that i have an hotspot on top of the shoulder and the back look kind of flat , i would like to improve in the muscular areas a little bit, i have tried some edits but still am not satisfied , i mainly burnt , i would like to combine the shoulder with the back more fluidly, currently it looks dont know the exact word but "fleshy " comes to my mind if anyone could give me direction i would be very happy image graz Jan 04 12 04:42 am Link Lanenga wrote: Depending on your intent. Ronald Nyein Zaw Tan wrote: Koray wrote: To enhance, not to create. Jan 04 12 04:46 am Link Lanenga wrote: Natalia_Taffarel wrote: No, not really. Unless you are actually PAINTING new parts in, it's nothing like painting from scratch. Natalia_Taffarel wrote: I knew someone would say this. But even if you do change shapes, that would be more like adjusting the outlines and all you do with carving is color inside them REALLY REALLY precise Jan 04 12 08:29 am Link @Grazian: I'll let the advance artists answer your query, since I am a "padawan" at carving. Michael has been insightful and offering me tips and tricks to improve my weakness. Jan 04 12 12:19 pm Link Thank you from another padavan :-), i really would like to learn more, so far i learnt great things here! best wishes Jan 04 12 12:59 pm Link Here is my attempt at augmenting a slight, structural correction. A lot of guess work and I am still having difficulty "seeing" it. Link to the layered TIFF: http://temp.ronaldnztan.com/pg3dey5y_ca … actice.tif Jan 04 12 01:19 pm Link If anyone is lurking at the thread, please join us. We are amongst friends and are here to assist one another. I am learning tips and tricks myself. It is fun! Jan 04 12 01:39 pm Link Lanenga wrote: Jan 04 12 02:08 pm Link Ronald Nyein Zaw Tan wrote: Great approach ronan, i must train my eyes more, on the forms and flows of light and dark body spots, but the "lighten" part on the arm was in my mind , i love to exercise , this thread is great Jan 04 12 02:17 pm Link Ronald Nyein Zaw Tan wrote: Jan 04 12 02:23 pm Link I see that the "bone" region indicated should be lightened and not darkened as I have in my carving layer. Jan 04 12 02:38 pm Link Here are the updated images. First my carving layer and later the GIF. Does my edit look more correct? Jan 04 12 02:53 pm Link this thread is starting to get scary Jan 04 12 02:54 pm Link I am scared and intimidated from Francis' replies. His posts are helping me "see" and more importantly, justify why things should be burnt or lighten—taking into account both anatomical and creative jurisdiction. Koray wrote: Jan 04 12 02:59 pm Link its all fine as long as this thread will make the world see better images...and I'm not scared of Francis the Bone Collector edit: oh...I wasnt aware that an evilgrin smilie was added!!! Jan 04 12 03:05 pm Link Scary Koray wrote: Jan 04 12 03:26 pm Link OFF TOPIC: Isn't there a time on MM, that is people use the word, "scary," the coding would automatically replace with some graphic? Ronald Nyein Zaw Tan wrote: Jan 04 12 03:27 pm Link NothingIsRealButTheGirl wrote: Good point. I think photographers have a bit more leeway because of the nature of the media we're working with. With a painting the viewer is supposed to believe it's real and thus d&b doesn't give very lifelike, vibrant results. Retouching a photo on the other hand is already clearly real so we can get away with less visually exciting highlights and shadows. Sometimes I do like to go and paint in some of the background color to the shadows and the light color to the highlights for visual interest though. NothingIsRealButTheGirl wrote: Awesome, bookmarked. I love how it clearly shows the the way the artist shaded the simplified forms. Natalia_Taffarel wrote: I'm glad someone brought this up. The curve of the surface is expressed through the gradient, so by altering gradients you can change how angular or smooth a surface is. I also find myself just simplifying gradients I see in the image as it creates a more sleek, visually appealing result. Same goes for simplifying the shapes of the highlights and shadows. For people who aren't Francis the Bone Collector, this involves lots of trial and error as I don't really know if an highlight or shadow adjustment will "work" until I try it out. Neil Snape wrote: Theres a method I use that's saved me lots of time in the color correction part of d&b. Before I did this I found myself color correcting the d&b more often than not. Now I find myself leaving it alone more often than not. The method is I pull the highlight point of the curve down a little bit on the burn curve, and raise the black point of the curve a bit in the dodge curve. The amount that the saturation is affected by the curve can be adjusted by playing with the corresponding end point to your dodge layer (shadow point) or burn layer (highlight point). This trick only works if you d&b in tiny little blobs and strokes, not if you enhance a large section of the face as contrast will be lost. If you darken down a very bright area, you'll most likely need to paint color. Likewise with an extreme brightening. Lanenga wrote: I do think it's much easier than painting a face from scratch, but the amount you intend to change the form of the face determines how much it feels like painting a face from scratch. For example in the edit I posted in this post, I really did end up painting the form of the nose in a way that was totally different from the original. Even that isn't quite the same as painting from scratch, but it's close. Ronald Nyein Zaw Tan wrote: Looks like the evil reign of the fear cat has finally come to an end. Rejoice! Koray wrote: I love "Francis the Bone Collector's" extensive knowledge of anatomy. I guess I'm his padawan when it comes to understanding the body. Jan 04 12 03:57 pm Link No one is ever going to wonder with MP stands for any longer. :-) Time to make some noise around your name, Mr. Pearson. ;-) Jan 04 12 04:14 pm Link Michael C Pearson wrote: Before I begin, I want to comment that I really like your work and your contribution to this thread. As someone who is not a retoucher but enjoys learning about retouching, I am thankful for your contribution. USING A SCREEN LAYER FOR DODGING I am not positive that this information directly relates to your comments Michael about color correction. Jan 04 12 04:45 pm Link Michael C Pearson wrote: To me this sounds all really obvious and is what I always tell people first. Lanenga wrote: Michael C Pearson wrote: I did see that image and I am still not convinced unless you would call this painting too Ronald Nyein Zaw Tan wrote: Haha yes there was. Seems like MM is maturing. Too bad... Jan 04 12 04:51 pm Link @Carlos: the link to the video is awesome. I wish I could do "digital makeup" in Photoshop, but my it is way beyond my skills. In a sense, "carving" is doing what makeup artists do. Improving and reshaping the face resulting in attractive illusions. Keep up the great tips and even fun and off topic things. :-) Jan 04 12 05:00 pm Link Ronald Nyein Zaw Tan wrote: Well she is pressing her fingers right into the bone and muscle structure to smudge which we cant Jan 04 12 05:03 pm Link HEY! There is a "Smudge" tool in Photoshop! Haha. I know what you mean though. Koray wrote: Jan 04 12 05:06 pm Link Koray wrote: Note to Adobe: Jan 04 12 05:17 pm Link Michael C Pearson wrote: NothingIsRealButTheGirl wrote: Good point. I think photographers have a bit more leeway because of the nature of the media we're working with. With a painting the viewer is supposed to believe it's real and thus d&b doesn't give very lifelike, vibrant results. Retouching a photo on the other hand is already clearly real so we can get away with less visually exciting highlights and shadows. Sometimes I do like to go and paint in some of the background color to the shadows and the light color to the highlights for visual interest though. NothingIsRealButTheGirl wrote: Awesome, bookmarked. I love how it clearly shows the the way the artist shaded the simplified forms. Natalia_Taffarel wrote: I'm glad someone brought this up. The curve of the surface is expressed through the gradient, so by altering gradients you can change how angular or smooth a surface is. I also find myself just simplifying gradients I see in the image as it creates a more sleek, visually appealing result. Same goes for simplifying the shapes of the highlights and shadows. For people who aren't Francis the Bone Collector, this involves lots of trial and error as I don't really know if an highlight or shadow adjustment will "work" until I try it out. Neil Snape wrote: Theres a method I use that's saved me lots of time in the color correction part of d&b. Before I did this I found myself color correcting the d&b more often than not. Now I find myself leaving it alone more often than not. The method is I pull the highlight point of the curve down a little bit on the burn curve, and raise the black point of the curve a bit in the dodge curve. The amount that the saturation is affected by the curve can be adjusted by playing with the corresponding end point to your dodge layer (shadow point) or burn layer (highlight point). This trick only works if you d&b in tiny little blobs and strokes, not if you enhance a large section of the face as contrast will be lost. If you darken down a very bright area, you'll most likely need to paint color. Likewise with an extreme brightening. Lanenga wrote: I do think it's much easier than painting a face from scratch, but the amount you intend to change the form of the face determines how much it feels like painting a face from scratch. For example in the edit I posted in this post, I really did end up painting the form of the nose in a way that was totally different from the original. Even that isn't quite the same as painting from scratch, but it's close. Ronald Nyein Zaw Tan wrote: Looks like the evil reign of the fear cat has finally come to an end. Rejoice! I think i love you. Jan 04 12 05:37 pm Link |